New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Sbe2]

i was replying to Morrey. it's not always about you... ha ha

I was just agreeing with ya..

 

[Oldskewl]

i was noticing how quickly my west coast ipa cleared up - gelatin fined vs non-fined (almost no difference after 1-2 weeks) - and then I looked at my saved yeast jars in my keezer tonight. The jar on the left is a harvest of WY1318 from 1.30.17. The jar on the right is a harvest of WY1056 from 3.3.17. That is just over one month difference in time. There is no difference in the wort, both are my typical starter wort. The WY1318 is one month older and obviously has a slight yeast haze vs the WY1056, which is crystal clear. I am wondering if this is part of the reason my WY1318 NE IPA is hazy for so much longer than my WY1056 west coast ipa?

This has been my experience as well. I used 1318 on a Bells 2 Hearted recipe because my yeast harvest failed. Not many hops in the recipe and a measly 1 oz dry hop in the primary. It stayed hazy in the Keg for 3 months.

 

[Shenanigans]

This has been my experience as well. I used 1318 on a Bells 2 Hearted recipe because my yeast harvest failed. Not many hops in the recipe and a measly 1 oz dry hop in the primary. It stayed hazy in the Keg for 3 months.

A bit off topic but how did the bells turn out tastewise? Want to brew it and am trying to decide on which yeast to use.

 

[Oldskewl]

A bit off topic but how did the bells turn out tastewise? Want to brew it and am trying to decide on which yeast to use.

I thought it developed into a great beer. It was very bitter/astringent for the first 10 days or so in the Keg(I think that is due to the large amount of Centennial hops). But after that it continued to get better. Around the 2 month mark is when I thought it was best. I plan to brew it again.

 

[Hannabrew]

Absolutely, this is what I have been doing, works great.

How long will this last in the mason jar before it needs to be used and/or restarted?

 

[fletch007]

Did you account/adjust for the temperature of the samples when you took the gravity measurements? Assuming that you used a hydrometer and that the beer wasn't carbonated for your FG measurement, I can't think of much else that would throw off the reading other than just misreading the numbers on the scale of the hydrometer.

I did adjust for temperature when I took both OG and FG.
Reading your response though made me think I may have taking the gravity reading in the bottling bucket with the corn sugar liquid in it, but wouldn't have been carbonated yet.

No bottle bombs, beer tastes great, so all is good I guess. I'll just have to be more diligent and pay more attention to my gravity readings.

 

[Sbe2]

How long will this last in the mason jar before it needs to be used and/or restarted?

I usually go around three months in the mason jar, but I only have three strains in rotation.

I always overbuild my starter, washing is too much of a pain for me, especially when brewing this style.

 

[stickyfinger]

How long will this last in the mason jar before it needs to be used and/or restarted?

Just use a yeast calculator to tell you how much of the yeast is viable at a given timepoint. then, you can decide whether the multiple steps to build it up are worth it. i usually don't go over maybe 3 months.

 

[olotti]

How long will this last in the mason jar before it needs to be used and/or restarted?

I've gone 4-5 months but the prob with that is the starter needs to be stepped up so basically a small starter then making a slightly larger one a couple days later. So now if I hit the three month mark and haven't used a yeast I'll just make a starter to build up healthy yeast and then jar that but 95% of the time if I make a starter it's going into a beer.

 

[stickyfinger]

I've gone 4-5 months but the prob with that is the starter needs to be stepped up so basically a small starter then making a slightly larger one a couple days later. So now if I hit the three month mark and haven't used a yeast I'll just make a starter to build up healthy yeast and then jar that but 95% of the time if I make a starter it's going into a beer.

yeah, that could make sense. if you are getting pretty old on a jar, build a starter that will be close to, say, 1L when finished. Then, you can just put that into a 1L mason jar (or a quart i guess it is.) Eventually, you will wind up with a bunch of dead yeast if you keep doing that though, might not be ideal. if you're not using a yeast very frequently, might be better to just order it when needed.

 

[berndawg84]

Hope this isn't too much of a thread hijack. Wanted to get some feedback on the hopping for this NE IPA. I'm pretty set with the grain bill. I used WeldWerks Juicy Bits IPA as a basis. According to Brewer's Friend, the calculated IBU for this is only 33, but I'm guessing it'll taste more bitter than this due to flameout hops and whirlpool hops? Also, has anyone used Vic Secret in a NE IPA? Seems like an intriguing option. The WeldWerks beer uses Citra, Mosaic and El Dorado, so I'm just tweaking that slightly. Thanks.




Juice Bomb


Method: BIAB
Style: American IPA
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 3 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 5 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.038 (recipe based estimate)
Efficiency: 65% (brew house)







Original Gravity:

1.063


Final Gravity:

1.016


ABV (standard):

6.26%


IBU (tinseth):

33.14


SRM (morey):

4.49









Fermentables

Amount Fermentable PPG °L Bill %
6.3 lb American - Pale 2-Row 37 1.8 78%
0.7 lb Flaked Wheat 34 2 8.7%
0.7 lb Flaked Oats 33 2.2 8.7%
6 oz American - Carapils (Dextrine Malt) 33 1.8 4.6%
8.08 lb Total


Hops

Amount Variety Type AA Use Time IBU
0.2 oz Citra Pellet 11 First Wort 9.47
0.2 oz Mosaic Pellet 12.5 First Wort 10.76
0.2 oz Vic Secret Pellet 15 First Wort 12.91
0.1 oz Citra Pellet 11 Boil 0 min
0.15 oz Mosaic Pellet 12.5 Boil 0 min
0.1 oz Vic Secret Pellet 15 Boil 0 min
0.1 oz Citra Pellet 11 Whirlpool at °F 40 min
0.1 oz Mosaic Pellet 12.5 Whirlpool at °F 40 min
0.1 oz Vic Secret Pellet 15 Whirlpool at °F 40 min
0.22 oz Citra Pellet 11 Whirlpool at °F 30 min
0.22 oz Mosaic Pellet 12.5 Whirlpool at °F 30 min
0.22 oz Vic Secret Pellet 15 Whirlpool at °F 30 min
0.6 oz Citra Pellet 11 Whirlpool at °F 20 min
0.3 oz Mosaic Pellet 12.5 Whirlpool at °F 20 min
0.3 oz Vic Secret Pellet 15 Whirlpool at °F 20 min
0.5 oz Citra Pellet 11 Dry Hop 4 days
0.5 oz Mosaic Pellet 12.5 Dry Hop 4 days
0.5 oz Vic Secret Pellet 15 Dry Hop 4 days
0.33 oz Citra Pellet 11 Dry Hop 8 days
0.65 oz Mosaic Pellet 12.5 Dry Hop 8 days
0.33 oz Vic Secret Pellet 15 Dry Hop 8 days


Hops Summary

Amount Variety Type AA
2.05 oz Citra Pellet 11
2.12 oz Mosaic Pellet 12.5
1.75 oz Vic Secret Pellet 15


Mash Guidelines

Amount Description Type Temp Time
-- Infusion 149 F 60 min


Yeast


Wyeast - London Ale III 1318

 

[stickyfinger]

OK, I don't want to mislead anyone, but I have done a few more comparisons in the style. I've done a couple with hops in the kettle, one with a big 20-minute addition and another with a 90 minute hop stand. I loved them at first, but they have not aged as well as my dry-hop only batches. Was it due to the kettle hops or some other factor? I don't know. I feel like I was getting some very consistent, repeatable, long-lasting hop flavor when I was doing only dry hopping. I think I'll go back to that.

The other confounding variable is that my latest batch using the 90 minute hop stand also used WLP002 as the yeast. I liked it a ton at first, but it hasn't aged super well. It is still good, but it has cleared up pretty quickly and lost some hop character before I thought it would. I am starting to wonder if the yeast hanging around in suspension is helping these beers maybe? My favorite yeasts so far are WLP095, GigaYeast Conan and WY1318.

The WLP095 is just a super solid yeast, very repeatable, long-lasting hop flavor, perfect. The GigaYeast Conan was of a similar character to the WLP095 and super cloudy for a long time. WY1318 has a sort of unique, strange flavor profile that seems to get better and better as the keg ages, weirdly. It makes for a super hazy beer for a long time and long-lasting hop character. I'd love to see a comparison of all three in the same wort with no kettle hops and a huge dry hop. I suppose one day I'll have to try that.

Oh, the other thing I am wondering about is the usage of kettle fining. I have a feeling that maybe omitting kettle finings might beneficial to the style. I'd have to do a side by side to compare though of course. It seems like it certainly leads to a hazier beer if you omit them!

Love this style, one of the best!

 

[BrewinSoldier]

OK, I don't want to mislead anyone, but I have done a few more comparisons in the style. I've done a couple with hops in the kettle, one with a big 20-minute addition and another with a 90 minute hop stand. I loved them at first, but they have not aged as well as my dry-hop only batches. Was it due to the kettle hops or some other factor? I don't know. I feel like I was getting some very consistent, repeatable, long-lasting hop flavor when I was doing only dry hopping. I think I'll go back to that.

The other confounding variable is that my latest batch using the 90 minute hop stand also used WLP002 as the yeast. I liked it a ton at first, but it hasn't aged super well. It is still good, but it has cleared up pretty quickly and lost some hop character before I thought it would. I am starting to wonder if the yeast hanging around in suspension is helping these beers maybe? My favorite yeasts so far are WLP095, GigaYeast Conan and WY1318.

The WLP095 is just a super solid yeast, very repeatable, long-lasting hop flavor, perfect. The GigaYeast Conan was of a similar character to the WLP095 and super cloudy for a long time. WY1318 has a sort of unique, strange flavor profile that seems to get better and better as the keg ages, weirdly. It makes for a super hazy beer for a long time and long-lasting hop character. I'd love to see a comparison of all three in the same wort with no kettle hops and a huge dry hop. I suppose one day I'll have to try that.

Oh, the other thing I am wondering about is the usage of kettle fining. I have a feeling that maybe omitting kettle finings might beneficial to the style. I'd have to do a side by side to compare though of course. It seems like it certainly leads to a hazier beer if you omit them!

Love this style, one of the best!

Interesting. So if you aren't making any kettle additions, where are you getting your bitterness from?

I just did version #2 of this and used gigayeast Conan. Suprisingly, it came out pretty clear and not cloudy. I never use kettle finings or gelatin to the keg on this style. This is the second time I've used citra from the same batch, and I have a weird taste in this one. I had the same weird taste in my Pliny the Younger clone I did quite a while back with the same citra batch of hops. I think my hops might be bad. I was hoping to see what the difference in flavor would be with this yeast vs the 1318 I used last time. Bummer.

 

[stickyfinger]

Interesting. So if you aren't making any kettle additions, where are you getting your bitterness from?

I'm often satisified with the bitterness I get from the dryhop alone.

I just did version #2 of this and used gigayeast Conan. Suprisingly, it came out pretty clear and not cloudy. I never use kettle finings or gelatin to the keg on this style. This is the second time I've used citra from the same batch, and I have a weird taste in this one. I had the same weird taste in my Pliny the Younger clone I did quite a while back with the same citra batch of hops. I think my hops might be bad. I was hoping to see what the difference in flavor would be with this yeast vs the 1318 I used last time. Bummer.

That's sad, man. Chuck those hops. Where did you buy them? There are definitely still mysteries with this style.

 

[Cavpilot2000]

Juice Bomb

That looks like a huge PITA to divvy up your hops into such minute quantities for such small differences in time. I've never seen anybody do a 40 minute, 30 minute, and 20 minute addition all in one beer (plus other additions). Not that it's a bad thing, but I think you're overcomplicating it and making a bunch of extra work for yourself and won't see a difference over more conventional hopping schedules (fewer steps).
Also, unless you want it bitter like a West Coast, this style really doesn't need anything boiled longer than 15 minutes. You'll pick up plenty bitterness from flameout and whirlpool/hopstand additions, despite what brewing calculators say.
Just my 2 cents.

The other confounding variable is that my latest batch using the 90 minute hop stand also used WLP002 as the yeast. I liked it a ton at first, but it hasn't aged super well. It is still good, but it has cleared up pretty quickly and lost some hop character before I thought it would. I am starting to wonder if the yeast hanging around in suspension is helping these beers maybe? My favorite yeasts so far are WLP095, GigaYeast Conan and WY1318.

The WLP095 is just a super solid yeast, very repeatable, long-lasting hop flavor, perfect. The GigaYeast Conan was of a similar character to the WLP095 and super cloudy for a long time. WY1318 has a sort of unique, strange flavor profile that seems to get better and better as the keg ages, weirdly. It makes for a super hazy beer for a long time and long-lasting hop character. I'd love to see a comparison of all three in the same wort with no kettle hops and a huge dry hop. I suppose one day I'll have to try that.

Oh, the other thing I am wondering about is the usage of kettle fining. I have a feeling that maybe omitting kettle finings might beneficial to the style. I'd have to do a side by side to compare though of course. It seems like it certainly leads to a hazier beer if you omit them!

Love this style, one of the best!

So I just posited the theory on the oxidation thread that yeast strains that remain in suspension longer may be providing anti-oxidative protection to the hops by scavenging the oxygen that would ordinarily be bonding with the hops and oxidizing (granted at a low rate because they're not all that active at this stage). Maybe I'm way off base, but it's a theory.

Also, I don't use kettle finings in NEIPA - it seems counter-productive in a style that is supposed to be hazy. You wouldn't (I assume) kettle-fine a Hefeweizen, would you?

Lastly, I am having an interesting experience with the remains of my last NEIPA:
So it was delicious (Galaxy, Azacca, Citra), but as is par for the course, it only lasted at peak flavor for a couple of weeks. Then it was just okay, but lacked that fresh hops flavor and aroma. So when the keg got down to the halfway point, I transferred it to a 2.5 gal keg with two more ounces of fresh dry hops in the new keg (galaxy). Boom. Immediately fresh again, but despite a fine mesh bag holding the hops, I began getting sediment and the beer picked up a fresh ground black pepper quality (I think from the sediment). It was weird, like an actual peppery spiciness that actually burned the throat a little. I still drank it, and noticed if I discarded the first few ounces before pouring my pint, it was better (got rid of the sediment).
Now a month later, the freshness seems to be back, or at least not obscured by pepperiness. When I pour it now, you can smell the tropical fruit citrus aroma from several feet away.
This beer was initially kegged on 2/9 and re-kegged (downsized and re-hopped) on 3/15. So over a month later, it's better than it's been since it was Fresh 2.5 months ago!

Anyway, those are my musings for the day.

 

[Braufessor]

Juice Bomb

I have to agree with Cavpilot on this one - that seems like an insane amount of detail in your hop schedule. I cannot imagine that level of detail is going to amount in any perceivable difference what-so-ever. I would get your IBU's in one addition, of one hop early on...... save those good hops for later. Use Warrior or something like that. Then I would lump those other flameout/whirlpool additions together probably. I can't see how different additions, 10 minutes apart are going to matter that much. Just seems like way more work than needed.
Otherwise - I think it looks like a good recipe - just rather tedious.

 

[Braufessor]

The other confounding variable is that my latest batch using the 90 minute hop stand also used WLP002 as the yeast. I liked it a ton at first, but it hasn't aged super well. It is still good, but it has cleared up pretty quickly and lost some hop character before I thought it would. I am starting to wonder if the yeast hanging around in suspension is helping these beers maybe? My favorite yeasts so far are WLP095, GigaYeast Conan and WY1318.

The WLP095 is just a super solid yeast, very repeatable, long-lasting hop flavor, perfect. The GigaYeast Conan was of a similar character to the WLP095 and super cloudy for a long time. WY1318 has a sort of unique, strange flavor profile that seems to get better and better as the keg ages, weirdly. It makes for a super hazy beer for a long time and long-lasting hop character. I'd love to see a comparison of all three in the same wort with no kettle hops and a huge dry hop. I suppose one day I'll have to try that.

Oh, the other thing I am wondering about is the usage of kettle fining. I have a feeling that maybe omitting kettle finings might beneficial to the style. I'd have to do a side by side to compare though of course. It seems like it certainly leads to a hazier beer if you omit them!

Love this style, one of the best!

Those observations seem pretty reasonable to me. I could see some of the same I think. I think the idea that the yeast might bring something to the table is reasonable. I generally blow through most of mine so fast that it is sort of irrelevant ...... but, when I have had multiple batches done at the same time and I don't go through them as fast - I start to notice some of that too..... especially as the beers drop clear.

I quit kettle fining these beers - just seemed pointless. Not sure if it impacts the beer..... just didn't see the justification for doing it when I am purposely adding protein type grains and it is ending cloudy anyway.

The yeast thing was something I had been thinking about too...... was thinking of doing 1318, Conan and 1272 in 3 batches at the same time.

 

[aviator24]

Anyway to extend the life of the hop flavor? Brewed up a my first attempt at this awesome style last Saturday. Huge fan since I stumbled on it at a local brewery that produces the M-43 variety.
I have a 10 gallon batch fermenting away nicely but would like it to last as long as possible flavor wise once kegged. I am getting ready to make my first dry hop addition in a day or two. I also plan on doing the dry hopping in the keg as Baufessor has done previously in this thread.
I know I should have staggered the batches but could/should I delay the dry hopping in one of the 5 gallon glass carboys I have going? Or I could try to drink the entire double batch before the flavors start to dissipate if I have to...just a thought.

 

[berndawg84]

That looks like a huge PITA to divvy up your hops into such minute quantities for such small differences in time. I've never seen anybody do a 40 minute, 30 minute, and 20 minute addition all in one beer (plus other additions). Not that it's a bad thing, but I think you're overcomplicating it and making a bunch of extra work for yourself and won't see a difference over more conventional hopping schedules (fewer steps).
Also, unless you want it bitter like a West Coast, this style really doesn't need anything boiled longer than 15 minutes. You'll pick up plenty bitterness from flameout and whirlpool/hopstand additions, despite what brewing calculators say.
Just my 2 cents.



QUOTE]

Yea that makes sense. I was using this recipe as a basis. This is an NE IPA you can really only get in Colorado, but it's amazing. Definitely on par with the likes of Trillium. Here's the recipe for it:

https://beerandbrewing.com/weldwerks-brewing-co-juicy-bits-new-england-style-ipa/

They do lots of small additions in the whirlpool, maybe that's excessive. I'm doing only 3gal, not 5, so I basically just cut the hop amounts in half.

So are you suggesting to not do a 60 minute boil? I was going to do a FWH and then not hop again until flameout.

 

[berndawg84]

I have to agree with Cavpilot on this one - that seems like an insane amount of detail in your hop schedule. I cannot imagine that level of detail is going to amount in any perceivable difference what-so-ever. I would get your IBU's in one addition, of one hop early on...... save those good hops for later. Use Warrior or something like that. Then I would lump those other flameout/whirlpool additions together probably. I can't see how different additions, 10 minutes apart are going to matter that much. Just seems like way more work than needed.
Otherwise - I think it looks like a good recipe - just rather tedious.

Gotcha, cool. So would you suggest then, at flameout just adding all of those hops, including the flameout and whirlpool hops? The flameout hops totaled about 0.3oz, The whirlpool hops totaled about 1.8oz, or 2.1 oz total. So should I just add the full 2.1oz at flameout and then just whirlpool for maybe 20-30 minutes or so? Thanks in advance.

 

[Braufessor]

Gotcha, cool. So would you suggest then, at flameout just adding all of those hops, including the flameout and whirlpool hops? The flameout hops totaled about 0.3oz, The whirlpool hops totaled about 1.8oz, or 2.1 oz total. So should I just add the full 2.1oz at flameout and then just whirlpool for maybe 20-30 minutes or so? Thanks in advance.

I like to start chilling a bit and get the wort down a bit.... even 180 or below probably (maybe just a minute or two)..... and then throw them in and shut off chiller. 30 minutes or so is what I do. But, yeah - I think you could combine some of those additions a bit for simplicity.

 

[jekeane]

@Braufessor Brewed as is on the revised post here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7701386&postcount=1418 I added a bit extra on the dry hop charges (20% or so) because I pre packaged hops planning on a second small batch that didn't come to fruition because of a clogged pump.

Won a local ipa competition with it, both peoples and judges categories. Thanks, for the recipe. Still not sure about peoples love for the style but this is a great recipe for it!

So hazy the camera blurs:

 

[Braufessor]

@Braufessor Brewed as is on the revised post here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7701386&postcount=1418 I added a bit extra on the dry hop charges (20% or so) because I pre packaged hops planning on a second small batch that didn't come to fruition because of a clogged pump.

Won a local ipa competition with it, both peoples and judges categories. Thanks, for the recipe. Still not sure about peoples love for the style but this is a great recipe for it!

So hazy the camera blurs:

Wow.... that looks great. Looking forward to getting home after work now! Congrats on the comp...... cool to hear that it did well.

 

[berndawg84]

I like to start chilling a bit and get the wort down a bit.... even 180 or below probably (maybe just a minute or two)..... and then throw them in and shut off chiller. 30 minutes or so is what I do. But, yeah - I think you could combine some of those additions a bit for simplicity.

Cool thanks, I will plan on that.

 

[cyclonebeer]

Hey Braufessor,
Have you ever played around with hop stand temps? I seem to remember a brulosophy triangle test where they looked at different different hop stand temp impacts and seemed to prefer about 120 degrees. I brewed a 10 gal batch of your IPA on Sunday. Almost didn't happen. I was out of Galaxy, but a friend of mine who brews waay too much had a pound that he sold me. This guys freezer is like a LHBS. Anyway, I set my hop stand temp at 120 in hopes to get a bit more "juicy" bump from that addition. Any thoughts?

 

[lilbova3]

I have always heard that it is not always advisable to harvest yeast from big beers or super hoppy beers. Is anyone harvesting 1318 from a NEIPA? I wont have a bunch of hop trub in the yeast cake anyway. I always just scoop up some yeast cake in a sanitized jar and don't go the washing route. If this is not a good process on this beer, I'll just start with a fresh pouch next brew day.

I always harvest mine from these beers. My beers aren't 'big' but very hoppy.

 

[Braufessor]

Hey Braufessor,
Have you ever played around with hop stand temps? I seem to remember a brulosophy triangle test where they looked at different different hop stand temp impacts and seemed to prefer about 120 degrees. I brewed a 10 gal batch of your IPA on Sunday. Almost didn't happen. I was out of Galaxy, but a friend of mine who brews waay too much had a pound that he sold me. This guys freezer is like a LHBS. Anyway, I set my hop stand temp at 120 in hopes to get a bit more "juicy" bump from that addition. Any thoughts?

Ha.... sounds familiar

Never been overly precise on the temps of hop stand.... I just get it cooled down below 170 or so. Can't say that I ever took it all the way down to 120. But, I am sure some times I am down in the 140 range.

Might have to figure out a way to sample yours and see how it is

 

[stickyfinger]

That looks like a huge PITA to divvy up your hops into such minute quantities for such small differences in time. I've never seen anybody do a 40 minute, 30 minute, and 20 minute addition all in one beer (plus other additions). Not that it's a bad thing, but I think you're overcomplicating it and making a bunch of extra work for yourself and won't see a difference over more conventional hopping schedules (fewer steps).

Also, unless you want it bitter like a West Coast, this style really doesn't need anything boiled longer than 15 minutes. You'll pick up plenty bitterness from flameout and whirlpool/hopstand additions, despite what brewing calculators say.

Just my 2 cents.







So I just posited the theory on the oxidation thread that yeast strains that remain in suspension longer may be providing anti-oxidative protection to the hops by scavenging the oxygen that would ordinarily be bonding with the hops and oxidizing (granted at a low rate because they're not all that active at this stage). Maybe I'm way off base, but it's a theory.



Also, I don't use kettle finings in NEIPA - it seems counter-productive in a style that is supposed to be hazy. You wouldn't (I assume) kettle-fine a Hefeweizen, would you?



Lastly, I am having an interesting experience with the remains of my last NEIPA:

So it was delicious (Galaxy, Azacca, Citra), but as is par for the course, it only lasted at peak flavor for a couple of weeks. Then it was just okay, but lacked that fresh hops flavor and aroma. So when the keg got down to the halfway point, I transferred it to a 2.5 gal keg with two more ounces of fresh dry hops in the new keg (galaxy). Boom. Immediately fresh again, but despite a fine mesh bag holding the hops, I began getting sediment and the beer picked up a fresh ground black pepper quality (I think from the sediment). It was weird, like an actual peppery spiciness that actually burned the throat a little. I still drank it, and noticed if I discarded the first few ounces before pouring my pint, it was better (got rid of the sediment).

Now a month later, the freshness seems to be back, or at least not obscured by pepperiness. When I pour it now, you can smell the tropical fruit citrus aroma from several feet away.

This beer was initially kegged on 2/9 and re-kegged (downsized and re-hopped) on 3/15. So over a month later, it's better than it's been since it was Fresh 2.5 months ago!



Anyway, those are my musings for the day.

i have been wondering about the yeast as a chemical reductant in finished beer as well. seems like a very good hypothesis to me

i also have added dry hops to the keg to revive an old beer. I've discovered that for some hop varieties or lots of hops, it can give a hop character that i din't enjoy as much as primary fermentation dry hops. the one time it seemed to work well was in a barleywine that had lost its hoppiness. didn't like it when i added apollo or ctz to a flagging ipa

 

[stickyfinger]

The yeast thing was something I had been thinking about too...... was thinking of doing 1318, Conan and 1272 in 3 batches at the same time.

love to see more yeast experiments!

 

[berndawg84]

Ha.... sounds familiar

Never been overly precise on the temps of hop stand.... I just get it cooled down below 170 or so. Can't say that I ever took it all the way down to 120. But, I am sure some times I am down in the 140 range.

Might have to figure out a way to sample yours and see how it is

So as a follow up to this...I redid the hop schedule in Brewer's Friend and simplified to one flameout addition and one whirlpool addition. Their site suggests that for a typical whirlpool hopping you get 10% utilization. I put in a 30 minute whirlpool at 175 degrees F, which added about 90 IBUs to the beer, for a total of 119 IBUs. Does this seem right? Seems like a lot. I thought I could start with a low FWH of 33 IBUs, but would get up into the 50's with the whirlpool hops, not 119 IBUs...

3 gallon batch
Original Gravity:

1.066
Final Gravity:

1.016
ABV (standard):

6.54%

IBU (tinseth):

119.15

SRM (morey):

4.65

Fermentables

Amount Fermentable PPG °L Bill %
6.3 lb American - Pale 2-Row 37 1.8 74.4%
0.8 lb Flaked Wheat 34 2 9.5%
0.8 lb Flaked Oats 33 2.2 9.5%
9 oz American - Carapils (Dextrine Malt) 33 1.8 6.6%
8.46 lb Total


Hops

Amount Variety Type AA Use Time IBU
0.2 oz Citra Pellet 11 First Wort 9.33
0.2 oz Mosaic Pellet 12.5 First Wort 10.6
0.2 oz Vic Secret Pellet 15 First Wort 12.72
0.1 oz Citra Pellet 11 Boil 0 min
0.1 oz Mosaic Pellet 12.5 Boil 0 min
0.1 oz Vic Secret Pellet 15 Boil 0 min
0.9 oz Citra Pellet 11 Whirlpool at 175°F 30 min 24.72
0.9 oz Mosaic Pellet 12.5 Whirlpool at 175°F 30 min 28.09
0.9 oz Vic Secret Pellet 15 Whirlpool at 175°F 30 min 33.71
0.5 oz Citra Pellet 11 Dry Hop 4 days
0.5 oz Mosaic Pellet 12.5 Dry Hop 4 days
0.5 oz Vic Secret Pellet 15 Dry Hop 4 days
0.33 oz Citra Pellet 11 Dry Hop 8 days
0.65 oz Mosaic Pellet 12.5 Dry Hop 8 days
0.33 oz Vic Secret Pellet 15 Dry Hop 8 days