New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[ultravista]

For what it's worth ...

I have never done anything to minimize oxygen pickup when kegging. The siphon tube rests on the bottom of the keg when filling - splashing is minimal or non-existent. The keg is purged a few times then left to settle. The dry hops are added to a mesh filter and keg purged. I usually shake the keg once and a while to get the hops moving again and sometimes open the lid to stir the hops inside of the mesh filter as they tend to compact.

Unless my palette is unable to pickup changes, this process has never turned a great tasting beer to so-so or bad.

 

[aviator24]

Going to attempt to brew my first NEIPA. Tried to read as much of this thread as possible time permitting. I have the following in my inventory and so this is what I have come up with. Tried the M-43 and was very impressed. They kind of put the recipe on the can so I was trying to copy it a bit, and all the Braufessor posts (very helpful). Any thoughts here before I screw up a double batch would be greatly appreciated.

2 Row Malt - Briess 24 lb
Munich Avangard - Malz Premium 2 lb
Flaked Oats 2 lb
Flaked Wheat 2 lb
Caramel Light - Avangard Malz Premium 1.5 lb (Maybe leave out??)
White Wheat 1 lb
32.5 total

60 minute mash @152-154)
60 minute boil hops 1/2 ounce Calypso, ½ ounce Amarillo, ½ ounce Citra
Simcoe Hop Pellets 2 oz (all I have) .5 oz flame out, .5 oz at 160 degrees or below, .5 oz in fermenter, .5 oz in keg
Amarillo Hop Pellets 2.75 oz flame out, 2.75 oz at 160 degrees or below, 2.75 oz in fermenter, 2.75 oz in keg
Citra Hops 2.75 oz flame out, 2.75 oz at 160 degrees or below, 2.75 oz in fermenter, 2.75 oz in keg
25.5 ounces of hops total

Also in inventory but not planning on using?
Mosaic (US) Hop Pellets 4 oz
Chinook Hop Pellets 2 oz

 

[Oldskewl]

I think your Simcoe is going to get lost with the much larger amounts of Citra & Amarillo. I would either substitute the Simcoe for the 4 oz Mosaic or add a 1/2 oz of Mosaic to your 1/2 oz Simcoe additions.

 

[jbedell2]

Sounds good. How are you siphoning? Co2 pushs into keg? If you can get a pic of this that would be awesome. Just not understanding getting co2 and siphoning without pulling the stopper.

Sorry for the delay - I fell behind on this thread in the last few weeks.

I use a Fermonster so I can't really use a carb cap. If I wanted to push to the keg with CO2, I could get a double-drilled stopper and a metal racking cane, but I haven't done that yet. Instead, I just take the stopper out and let a CO2 line just hang in there a little bit with the CO2 coming out at a steady trickle. Then I use an autosiphon to siphon to a purged keg. As long as the gas is going into the fermentor faster than the beer is coming out, it maintains positive pressure and no air is drawn into the stopper hole. There's no seal - gas is flowing out of the stopper hole, but it's just CO2, and no air is going in and touching the beer.

I realize that a tiny bit of oxygen exposure will happen within the autosiphon, but I have not had any noticeable oxidation with this method.

I don't have a pic but need to rack this weekend so will try to get one.

 

[Hannabrew]

Sorry for the delay - I fell behind on this thread in the last few weeks.

I use a Fermonster so I can't really use a carb cap. If I wanted to push to the keg with CO2, I could get a double-drilled stopper and a metal racking cane, but I haven't done that yet. Instead, I just take the stopper out and let a CO2 line just hang in there a little bit with the CO2 coming out at a steady trickle. Then I use an autosiphon to siphon to a purged keg. As long as the gas is going into the fermentor faster than the beer is coming out, it maintains positive pressure and no air is drawn into the stopper hole. There's no seal - gas is flowing out of the stopper hole, but it's just CO2, and no air is going in and touching the beer.

I realize that a tiny bit of oxygen exposure will happen within the autosiphon, but I have not had any noticeable oxidation with this method.

I don't have a pic but need to rack this weekend so will try to get one.

I too use a fermonster and do closed transfers using the methods described in this thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=585875.

Before I had a thermowell, I used the medium bung for the airlock and used a carb cap with a barb which had a piece of tubing attached to it and jammed into the bung hole. Then I can simply connect my CO2 QD to it and slighly pressurize the Fermonster (I found 2PSI to be the sweet spot).

Now that I have a thermowell with a double drilled stopper, I use the big piece of a 3 piece airlock jammed into the non-thermowell hole and attach a blowoff tube. On the other end of the blowoff tube I bought a 1/2" swivel nut barb to 1/4 flare to allow me to connect my CO2 QD to it. That 1/2" swivel nut was tough to find but leave it to BrewHardware to have what you need!

 

[fletch007]

Brewed this on 3/25 and I LOVE IT! I've only been brewing for a little over a year and this one is at the top of my list.

I racked to secondary after 9 days and did the second dry hop at the same time for 5 days before bottling. After reading through this thread I decided to remove the tip of my bottling wand and just used one of those white clamps on the hose to stop the flow. My OG was 1.058 and my FG was 1.003, which had me a little worried. Beersmith says that's a measured attenuation of 94.5%, maybe I measured something wrong? I used London Ale III and fermented at 68º throughout. I believe the max attenuation was supposed to be something like 75%.

I've tended to avoid the super hoppy beers because I assumed they were bitter. This recipe showed me it's not the quantity of hops it's how you use it (Austin Powers voice).

I was wondering if anyone could suggest a commercial beer that would be similar to this recipe I could try?

Thanks again Braufessor for a great beer, I will be brewing again.

 

[stickyfinger]

For what it's worth ...

I have never done anything to minimize oxygen pickup when kegging. The siphon tube rests on the bottom of the keg when filling - splashing is minimal or non-existent. The keg is purged a few times then left to settle. The dry hops are added to a mesh filter and keg purged. I usually shake the keg once and a while to get the hops moving again and sometimes open the lid to stir the hops inside of the mesh filter as they tend to compact.

Unless my palette is unable to pickup changes, this process has never turned a great tasting beer to so-so or bad.

if u don't use keg hops, i bet you'll see a difference b/w low and high oxygen kegging. i don't like keg hops in general so i have to use lower oxygen methods

 

[marjen]

Posting up my recipe from last week. I am so proud of this beer, it honestly might be the best beer I have every had. Gotten great reviews from a few people I shared with as well. SO damn tasty! Only my 3rd batch ever, and first all grain.

Mad Eye Mosiac Pale Ale
Date brewed: 4/9/2017

Malts & Grains
10 lb Briess 2-Row Malt
1.5 lb Briess White Wheat Malt
12 oz Flaked oats
8 oz Briess Carapis Malt
4 oz British crystal 15L
mash at 152 for 60 mins.

Hops
0.25 oz Columbus Hops @ 60 min
0.75 oz Columbus Hops @ 10 min
1oz mosaic .5 oz exp pineapple @ flameout
1oz Columbus, 1 oz galaxy & 1 oz Citra hop stand @ 180° for 30’

Yeast
WL1318 used a 1 liter yeast starter 24 hours prior.

Dry Hop & Fermentation
1 oz mosaic at pitch
1 oz exp pineapple at pitch
4 oz mosaic, 2 oz Citra, 2 oz galaxy & 1 oz Columbus added on 3rd day

Starter
1 liter

Total hops
3 oz columbus
6 oz mosaic
3 oz galaxy
3 oz citra
1.5 oz exp pineapple

16.5 oz hops

 

[cheesebach]

My OG was 1.058 and my FG was 1.003, which had me a little worried. Beersmith says that's a measured attenuation of 94.5%, maybe I measured something wrong?

Did you account/adjust for the temperature of the samples when you took the gravity measurements? Assuming that you used a hydrometer and that the beer wasn't carbonated for your FG measurement, I can't think of much else that would throw off the reading other than just misreading the numbers on the scale of the hydrometer.

 

[Morrey]

The craze for haze continues as my NE IPA brew is scheduled tomorrow. Gotta love some GMC hops. Settled on WY1318 on the stir plate now. Didn't know this was a Conan strain til I read something about a comparison with this yeast on Brulosopher. Anyway, I was planning to set the ATC at 67F and ride it on out 12-14 days with this temp. Asking for suggestions if this will do the job or is this not a good temp schedule???

 

[Morrey]

Posting up my recipe from last week. I am so proud of this beer, it honestly might be the best beer I have every had. Gotten great reviews from a few people I shared with as well. SO damn tasty! Only my 3rd batch ever, and first all grain.

Mad Eye Mosiac Pale Ale
Date brewed: 4/9/2017

Malts & Grains
10 lb Briess 2-Row Malt
1.5 lb Briess White Wheat Malt
12 oz Flaked oats
8 oz Briess Carapis Malt
4 oz British crystal 15L
mash at 152 for 60 mins.

Hops
0.25 oz Columbus Hops @ 60 min
0.75 oz Columbus Hops @ 10 min
1oz mosaic .5 oz exp pineapple @ flameout
1oz Columbus, 1 oz galaxy & 1 oz Citra hop stand @ 180° for 30’

Yeast
WL1318 used a 1 liter yeast starter 24 hours prior.

Dry Hop & Fermentation
1 oz mosaic at pitch
1 oz exp pineapple at pitch
4 oz mosaic, 2 oz Citra, 2 oz galaxy & 1 oz Columbus added on 3rd day

Starter
1 liter

Total hops
3 oz columbus
6 oz mosaic
3 oz galaxy
3 oz citra
1.5 oz exp pineapple

16.5 oz hops

So...with that said, are you not impressed with what you as a home brewer can accomplish? Isn't this a heck of a rewarding hobby??

 

[GnenieGone]

I've been reading comments for weeks. Enjoy everyone's conversation especially concerning oxygen contamination with hops. My keggorator compressor died so a bit in limbo for brewing hop oriented beers. I've struggled with ipa off flavors and decided to finally do something about. I use buckets so here's my next modification.

1) add a spigot on a 7.9gal fermentor at the 1 gallon level. Also add a port to accept the CO2 line, 1/4in swagelock possibly.

This helps purge the primary when adding hops and using CO2 pressure, maybe 2psi?? to transfer to keg (once rebuilt..&#128530. I'll obviously use a beverage hose purged with CO2 first to transfer. I know might loose beer in primary, but I've been tossing them lately, so really have nothing to lose.

 

[jammin]

Malts & Grains
10 lb Briess 2-Row Malt
1.5 lb Briess White Wheat Malt
12 oz Flaked oats
8 oz Briess Carapis Malt
4 oz British crystal 15L
mash at 152 for 60 mins.


Yeast
WL1318 used a 1 liter yeast starter 24 hours prior.


Starter
1 liter

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2868/34144746466_cb4b9938a4_k.jpg[IMG][/quote]

What was your OG/TG and ABV?

 

[aviator24]

So was planning on brewing up a NEIPA tomorrow and only have a few yeast strains to use, would any of the following even be an option...Wyeast American Ale II 1272 smack pack, Safale US 05 and or a Coopers Ale dry 15 g brewing yeast packet?

 

[olotti]

So was planning on brewing up a NEIPA tomorrow and only have a few yeast strains to use, would any of the following even be an option...Wyeast American Ale II 1272 smack pack, Safale US 05 and or a Coopers Ale dry 15 g brewing yeast packet?

I'd use 1272, braufessor uses it himself and I've also tasted some of his 1272 neipas and it's a good yeast not 1318 like but it'll put out a good beer.

 

[Hannabrew]

As usual, Braufessor's recipes kick ass.

Thanks for helping my beers taste like I've been brewing for a lot longer than I have been!

 

[Braufessor]

So was planning on brewing up a NEIPA tomorrow and only have a few yeast strains to use, would any of the following even be an option...Wyeast American Ale II 1272 smack pack, Safale US 05 and or a Coopers Ale dry 15 g brewing yeast packet?

1272 for sure. It works great in this beer.

 

[plazola86]

Is low oxygen practices the new NE IPA? So much following but yet so much hate. I'm a hater I guess, but I love an NE IPA. If your beer sucks don't take the easy road and blame oxygen pick up. I've done bad beer but it has never been more than a bad recipe.

 

[plazola86]

Posting up my recipe from last week. I am so proud of this beer, it honestly might be the best beer I have every had. Gotten great reviews from a few people I shared with as well. SO damn tasty! Only my 3rd batch ever, and first all grain.

Mad Eye Mosiac Pale Ale
Date brewed: 4/9/2017

Malts & Grains
10 lb Briess 2-Row Malt
1.5 lb Briess White Wheat Malt
12 oz Flaked oats
8 oz Briess Carapis Malt
4 oz British crystal 15L
mash at 152 for 60 mins.

Hops
0.25 oz Columbus Hops @ 60 min
0.75 oz Columbus Hops @ 10 min
1oz mosaic .5 oz exp pineapple @ flameout
1oz Columbus, 1 oz galaxy & 1 oz Citra hop stand @ 180° for 30’

Yeast
WL1318 used a 1 liter yeast starter 24 hours prior.

Dry Hop & Fermentation
1 oz mosaic at pitch
1 oz exp pineapple at pitch
4 oz mosaic, 2 oz Citra, 2 oz galaxy & 1 oz Columbus added on 3rd day

Starter
1 liter

Total hops
3 oz columbus
6 oz mosaic
3 oz galaxy
3 oz citra
1.5 oz exp pineapple

16.5 oz hops

Good for you! I'm glad you're enjoying your beer, that's what it's all about! *All though it looks like it picked up some oxygen on the way AND you're . 003 grams short of Citra*.(sarcasm)

 

[marjen]

What was your OG/TG and ABV?

I missed my numbers on this one as I lost too much water to evaporation during the boil. Ended up 1.072 OG, 10.14 FG for a 7.6% ABV. Think I have my boil process under control now so should be able to hit close to the expected 6.6 next time.

So...with that said, are you not impressed with what you as a home brewer can accomplish? Isn't this a heck of a rewarding hobby??

I am amazed that it is possible to make such good beer at home. Glad I finally took up this hobby.

 

[marjen]

I was planning to set the ATC at 67F and ride it on out 12-14 days with this temp.

That temp should work just fine. I have had all 3 of my beers that used 1318 in a keg 7 days later. This stuff is fast! Most activity is done in the first 2-3 days.

 

[aviator24]

1272 for sure. It works great in this beer.

If the 1272 fails for some reason could the Safale 05 be used as a backup?

 

[Sbe2]

If the 1272 fails for some reason could the Safale 05 be used as a backup?

Yeah, for sure. Just make sure to add your dry hops at high krausen.

 

[Morrey]

That temp should work just fine. I have had all 3 of my beers that used 1318 in a keg 7 days later. This stuff is fast! Most activity is done in the first 2-3 days.

I have always heard that it is not always advisable to harvest yeast from big beers or super hoppy beers. Is anyone harvesting 1318 from a NEIPA? I wont have a bunch of hop trub in the yeast cake anyway. I always just scoop up some yeast cake in a sanitized jar and don't go the washing route. If this is not a good process on this beer, I'll just start with a fresh pouch next brew day.

 

[stickyfinger]

I have always heard that it is not always advisable to harvest yeast from big beers or super hoppy beers. Is anyone harvesting 1318 from a NEIPA? I wont have a bunch of hop trub in the yeast cake anyway. I always just scoop up some yeast cake in a sanitized jar and don't go the washing route. If this is not a good process on this beer, I'll just start with a fresh pouch next brew day.

try building up starters with 100B extra yeast cells. pitch what u need and save the rest in a sanitized mason jar. works great

 

[Projectfdw]

A welcome update on my previous posts. The beer is very good again. I degassed it. Cleaned my co2 lines and got a new co2 fill. Think it was possibly some crud built up in the co2 line. But in the end... it's good again.

 

[Sbe2]

try building up starters with 100B extra yeast cells. pitch what u need and save the rest in a sanitized mason jar. works great

Absolutely, this is what I have been doing, works great.

 

[stickyfinger]

reporting back on my last neipa. deviation was wlp002 AND 90 minute hop stand vs wlp095/gigayeast conan/wy1318 and no kettle hops. so far i'd say this batch is fading faster. it is almost clear, just slight haze, after like 1 month in keg. wlp095 or wy1318 with no kettle hops are much hazier and better hop character at this point. the beer appears much darker too. not sure if it is the hop stand or the yeast, probably both. my next attempt will be my favorite malt bill with wlp095 and no kettle hops, no whirfloc and citra mosaic galaxy at 2 oz/gal in dry hop as the only hop addn.

 

[stickyfinger]

Absolutely, this is what I have been doing, works great.

i was replying to Morrey. it's not always about you... ha ha

 

[stickyfinger]

i was noticing how quickly my west coast ipa cleared up - gelatin fined vs non-fined (almost no difference after 1-2 weeks) - and then I looked at my saved yeast jars in my keezer tonight. The jar on the left is a harvest of WY1318 from 1.30.17. The jar on the right is a harvest of WY1056 from 3.3.17. That is just over one month difference in time. There is no difference in the wort, both are my typical starter wort. The WY1318 is one month older and obviously has a slight yeast haze vs the WY1056, which is crystal clear. I am wondering if this is part of the reason my WY1318 NE IPA is hazy for so much longer than my WY1056 west coast ipa?

 

[Sbe2]

i was replying to Morrey. it's not always about you... ha ha

I was just agreeing with ya..

 

[Oldskewl]

i was noticing how quickly my west coast ipa cleared up - gelatin fined vs non-fined (almost no difference after 1-2 weeks) - and then I looked at my saved yeast jars in my keezer tonight. The jar on the left is a harvest of WY1318 from 1.30.17. The jar on the right is a harvest of WY1056 from 3.3.17. That is just over one month difference in time. There is no difference in the wort, both are my typical starter wort. The WY1318 is one month older and obviously has a slight yeast haze vs the WY1056, which is crystal clear. I am wondering if this is part of the reason my WY1318 NE IPA is hazy for so much longer than my WY1056 west coast ipa?

This has been my experience as well. I used 1318 on a Bells 2 Hearted recipe because my yeast harvest failed. Not many hops in the recipe and a measly 1 oz dry hop in the primary. It stayed hazy in the Keg for 3 months.

 

[Shenanigans]

This has been my experience as well. I used 1318 on a Bells 2 Hearted recipe because my yeast harvest failed. Not many hops in the recipe and a measly 1 oz dry hop in the primary. It stayed hazy in the Keg for 3 months.

A bit off topic but how did the bells turn out tastewise? Want to brew it and am trying to decide on which yeast to use.

 

[Oldskewl]

A bit off topic but how did the bells turn out tastewise? Want to brew it and am trying to decide on which yeast to use.

I thought it developed into a great beer. It was very bitter/astringent for the first 10 days or so in the Keg(I think that is due to the large amount of Centennial hops). But after that it continued to get better. Around the 2 month mark is when I thought it was best. I plan to brew it again.

 

[Hannabrew]

Absolutely, this is what I have been doing, works great.

How long will this last in the mason jar before it needs to be used and/or restarted?

 

[fletch007]

Did you account/adjust for the temperature of the samples when you took the gravity measurements? Assuming that you used a hydrometer and that the beer wasn't carbonated for your FG measurement, I can't think of much else that would throw off the reading other than just misreading the numbers on the scale of the hydrometer.

I did adjust for temperature when I took both OG and FG.
Reading your response though made me think I may have taking the gravity reading in the bottling bucket with the corn sugar liquid in it, but wouldn't have been carbonated yet.

No bottle bombs, beer tastes great, so all is good I guess. I'll just have to be more diligent and pay more attention to my gravity readings.

 

[Sbe2]

How long will this last in the mason jar before it needs to be used and/or restarted?

I usually go around three months in the mason jar, but I only have three strains in rotation.

I always overbuild my starter, washing is too much of a pain for me, especially when brewing this style.

 

[stickyfinger]

How long will this last in the mason jar before it needs to be used and/or restarted?

Just use a yeast calculator to tell you how much of the yeast is viable at a given timepoint. then, you can decide whether the multiple steps to build it up are worth it. i usually don't go over maybe 3 months.

 

[olotti]

How long will this last in the mason jar before it needs to be used and/or restarted?

I've gone 4-5 months but the prob with that is the starter needs to be stepped up so basically a small starter then making a slightly larger one a couple days later. So now if I hit the three month mark and haven't used a yeast I'll just make a starter to build up healthy yeast and then jar that but 95% of the time if I make a starter it's going into a beer.

 

[stickyfinger]

I've gone 4-5 months but the prob with that is the starter needs to be stepped up so basically a small starter then making a slightly larger one a couple days later. So now if I hit the three month mark and haven't used a yeast I'll just make a starter to build up healthy yeast and then jar that but 95% of the time if I make a starter it's going into a beer.

yeah, that could make sense. if you are getting pretty old on a jar, build a starter that will be close to, say, 1L when finished. Then, you can just put that into a 1L mason jar (or a quart i guess it is.) Eventually, you will wind up with a bunch of dead yeast if you keep doing that though, might not be ideal. if you're not using a yeast very frequently, might be better to just order it when needed.