New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[anteater8]

All simcoe hops, wlp006 (Bedford) yeast. Pearl base with Munich, GNOs, and CaraMunich I.

Can you describe the flavor and aroma you got from using all Simcoe? I am thinking about trying this as my next single hop NEIPA.

Edit: Just saw your post a page back, sounds delicious!

 

[mtnagel]

I am Assuming that beer two did not suffer hoppyness loss from oxidation.



The higher abv will absorb more hop oil is the only reason that comes to mind.

They were pretty much treated very similarly after fermentation.

And it's the higher ABV one that had a huge hop aroma. The lower ABV doesn't.

 

[stickyfinger]

They were pretty much treated very similarly after fermentation.

And it's the higher ABV one that had a huge hop aroma. The lower ABV doesn't.

carbonation?

 

[EndOfLine]

They were pretty much treated very similarly after fermentation.

And it's the higher ABV one that had a huge hop aroma. The lower ABV doesn't.

Yes. More abv means more hoppyness extracted faster

 

[stickyfinger]

They were pretty much treated very similarly after fermentation.

And it's the higher ABV one that had a huge hop aroma. The lower ABV doesn't.

We are all assuming that you used the same "lot" or "batch" of hops in both. That could make a big difference I think.

 

[hopbrad]

I usually go with something in the 1.062-1.066 range. this time upped it to 1.072 for more of a double IPA along with adding a small % of vienna and crystal.
76% weyerman Pale malt
9% pale wheat
8% flaked oats
4% Vienna
3% carared

bittered with columbus. late additions 50% Citra and 50% blend of Centennial, Cascade, Apollo, Columbus.
half is yeasted with wlp644, other half with Conan.
Dry hopping half with El Dorado and Simcoe. And maybe Citra and Mosaic on the other. havent totally made up my mind on the dry hopage

I also upped both the gypsum and CC addition. went to 200 chloride/160 Sulfate

 

[Braufessor]

Anyone want to help me figure out why my first batch had this huge, hit you over the head hop aroma, while my second batch, while a tasty beer, doesn't pack the same hop aroma punch?

Here are all the details of both batches. Note that the first, I was a bit more efficient, so that's why the high SG and I must have hit the ABV limit with 1318, so I'm assuming that's why I got such low attenuation. I wasn't planning on such a high FG, but it actually wasn't that sweet at all. For the next batch, I wanted a lower gravity beer and I wanted to try lowering the hops by about 10% to see if I could tell the difference. But I'd be shocked if that's what caused the difference since most recipes in this thread have way less hops than my batch 2.

Could it be the tap vs distilled water? I'm assuming lots of people in here are using tap.

I'm assuming it's not the lower gravity because lots of people are doing lower gravity beers. I'm really at a loss here. Any thoughts?

I would look at the two things that stand out as the most significantly different in the two beers:

1.) Water - you say you used "tap water" in one....... did you do anything to get rid of the chlorine/chloramine in the water? That could certainly have an adverse effect on the way the hops come across and are perceived. Also, you don't list the level of bicarbonate in your water profile...... just the other basic ions. I know that my higher bicarbonate water makes lousy IPA's if I use it in a high amount. Those might be a couple areas to consider.
** Also, noticed that your Na is kind of high on the tap water profile......Is this water from a water softener? If so, that does not make good brewing water.

2.) The most striking difference in the two beers to me is the Final Gravity. 1.028 vs. 1.011 is a massive difference. I think there would be a huge difference in the way those two beers are perceived when you drink them. That could be a possibility too.

 

[BrunDog]

I've been meaning to share a technique I've been using recently to cold crash with virtually no oxygen exposure. It doesn't require hooking up CO2, a second regulator, or any extra equipment other than $2 worth of drilled stoppers.

I think cold crashing this beer is important. Before I started cold crashing, I would get at least a week or two of harsh bite from suspended hop particles. Sometimes it never really went away. I would also have a bunch of sludge at the bottom of the keg when it kicked, which would mess up my beer lines, etc.

I also think avoiding oxygen exposure is very important to this style, and I'm just not OK with sucking a bunch of air into the headspace while cold crashing. Before I started doing this, I could actually see a thin dark layer of oxidized beer forming at the top of the fermentor while crashing.

So, here's what I came up with for storing some CO2 from fermentation, and feeding it back into the primary while cold crashing. I had seen some other threads on this talking about mylar balloons and all kinds of stuff, but I think this is a more elegant, sanitary approach.

Here's how it works: I start off with the blowoff tube (the yellowed one) in a normal jar or whatever. Once I am past any potential blowoff risk, but still actively fermenting, I put that hose into the top of the first jug, which starts off filled to the top with star san. The CO2 pressure pushes that star san through the jumper line into the second jug, which fills up and then just allows excess CO2 to bubble out into the atmosphere. The first jug is now full of CO2. This is what's pictured below.

When I start to cold crash, the headspace contracts, which sucks star san from the second jug back into the first, and CO2 from the first jug back into the fermentor. That fermentor is a thin-walled plastic Fermonster, and there's little enough negative pressure that it doesn't even buckle. At the end of the cold crash, the first jug is filled back up about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way.

When I'm done cold crashing, I just take the stopper out of the fermentor and hang a CO2 line in there, trickling CO2 to maintain positive pressure as the beer siphons out. There's no rush of air when I take the stopper out because there's no negative pressure. I siphon into a keg that has been filled with star san and purged with CO2, so the beer comes into no contact with oxygen.

I do all of my dry hopping loose in primary, but by cold crashing I get almost no trub or hop matter into the keg. When the keg kicks, the bottom is nearly clean.

The one thing that may be tricky is finding a double-drilled stopper. The guy at my LHBS has a drill bit in the back that does it, so he just gave me those two stoppers for $1 each. I think I've seen threads about people doing it themselves with a piece of copper pipe or something. I guess a normal drill bit doesn't work too well. The jugs are 1-gallon fermentors I had lying around.

Anyway, hope someone finds this helpful. This is the best balance I've found between (relative) simplicity and feeling like I'm doing the best I can do avoid O2 and improve my beer.

Been late catching up on this thread - but this is bloody brilliant!!

 

[mtnagel]

carbonation?

In the same kegerator so carbed to the same level.

Yes. More abv means more hoppyness extracted faster

Ok, but clearly there are lots of low ABV NE IPAs that have huge hop aroma.

We are all assuming that you used the same "lot" or "batch" of hops in both. That could make a big difference I think.

I'm pretty sure the mosaic and amarillo were the same, but I believe I had to open a new pound of citra for at least some of the hops in batch 2. But if anything it should be fresher.

I would look at the two things that stand out as the most significantly different in the two beers:

1.) Water - you say you used "tap water" in one....... did you do anything to get rid of the chlorine/chloramine in the water? That could certainly have an adverse effect on the way the hops come across and are perceived. Also, you don't list the level of bicarbonate in your water profile...... just the other basic ions. I know that my higher bicarbonate water makes lousy IPA's if I use it in a high amount. Those might be a couple areas to consider.
** Also, noticed that your Na is kind of high on the tap water profile......Is this water from a water softener? If so, that does not make good brewing water.

2.) The most striking difference in the two beers to me is the Final Gravity. 1.028 vs. 1.011 is a massive difference. I think there would be a huge difference in the way those two beers are perceived when you drink them. That could be a possibility too.

1) Yes, I use campden tablets to remove chlorine. Water authority told me they don't use chloramines here.

Bicarbonate is 92 ppm in my tap water. After the mineral and lactic addition, Brun water says my mashing water profile is -57.8 for Batch 2. With the distilled water in Batch 1, the mashing water was -44.6.

No softener. The Na comes in with my tap water.

Maybe I should try diluting my tap water with distilled and see how that is.

2) yes the FG were very different, but lots of people are making low ABV/low FG NE IPAs with huge hop aroma. If the high FG batch was the bad one, I could have pointed to that, but it doesn't make any sense to me that the low FG one, which is more normal, is the one with low hop aroma.

 

[Braufessor]

2) yes the FG were very different, but lots of people are making low ABV/low FG NE IPAs with huge hop aroma. If the high FG batch was the bad one, I could have pointed to that, but it doesn't make any sense to me that the low FG one, which is more normal, is the one with low hop aroma.

I don't know.... I could see the high FG beer coming across with a higher perception of hops. NE IPA's kind of hang their hat on the perception of being "full" and "juicy"..... the increased body and sweetness in the high FG beer could combine in a way that enhances those perceptions in the hops.

Meanwhile, the 1.011 could (especially by comparison to the 1.028 beer) come across as thinner and with less "juicy" impact. I guess I would fully expect a bigger beer with more hops to come across that way when being compared to a beer with a dramatically lower FG and less hops.

As for the water, that bicarbonate - neutralized or not - is probably not anything that is going to help the beer. The more you have to "do" to your water to get it in line...... well, that is just the more that might potentially affect the finished product.

I still think it is probably one of those two things. If you are really curious, you should brew 2 batches of the exact same beer - one with tap profile and one with RO water profile. Then you could definitely check the water profile off the list as meaningless, or meaningful.

Or, brew 2 batches of the same beer and use the two different hopping schedules. Right now, you are kind of comparing apples to oranges a little bit.

 

[ccous]

Can you describe the flavor and aroma you got from using all Simcoe? I am thinking about trying this as my next single hop NEIPA.

Edit: Just saw your post a page back, sounds delicious!

If you plan on going all Simcoe, what I did (after bittering to desired level with Warrior - so it's not truly a smash but the only aroma hop was simcoe), was 1 oz at 15 min, 2 oz at 5 min, 3 oz at flameout/steep 30 min, 3 oz into fermenter after chilling ('prefermentation' dry hop), 3 oz when krausen started to fall, and 4 oz traditional dry hop. So I packed a full pound in there and it's awesome.

 

[Sbe2]

If you plan on going all Simcoe, what I did (after bittering to desired level with Warrior - so it's not truly a smash but the only aroma hop was simcoe), was 1 oz at 15 min, 2 oz at 5 min, 3 oz at flameout/steep 30 min, 3 oz into fermenter after chilling ('prefermentation' dry hop), 3 oz when krausen started to fall, and 4 oz traditional dry hop. So I packed a full pound in there and it's awesome.

Holy F¤©K:rockin:

 

[Hannabrew]

Okay…… This is just kind of an “update post”. The original recipe is great as is… but, here are some slightly different things I have started to do, minor changes, observations, etc. After a certain amount of time, you cannot edit a post – so I can’t really get in to make changes to the OP. I do think I can get this post linked into the OP though. Some of what follows is basically the same as the OP…. Some is different and updated. I will put the updated parts in bold italics

**I brew 6.5 gallons of finished beer (post boil)..... this allows me to leave some hop/trub behind in boil kettle and fermenter and get 5 gallons eventually into serving keg. If you finish with 5 gallons post boil, you might want to adjust hops down a bit.
6.5 gallons post boil
5.75 gallons into fermenter
5 gallons into keg

GRAIN BILL:
1.060 OG…. I think this makes a perfect compromise between getting into DIPA range (having beers that are just too high in abv. for my preference) and going too far toward 1.050 where the beer may become too much of a “session” IPA for some peoples preferences.

% and the actual amt. I use for 6.5 gallons @ 84% mash efficiency (your efficiency may vary – so use the percentages)

40% Rahr 2 Row (5.5 lbs)
40% Golden Promise (or similar…Maris Otter) (5.5 lbs)
8% Flaked Oats (1 lb)
4% Flaked Barley 1/2 lb)
4% Weyerman Wheat (1/2 lb)
2% Flaked Wheat (1/4 lb)
2% Honey Malt (1/4 lb)

60 minute mash @152-154)

*Note on grain…. Using all 2 Row for Base is probably fine. Using any combination of flaked Oats/Wheat/Barley to get into the 15-20% range is proably fine too. I do like the addition of Honey Malt and recommend keeping it.

HOPS:
**60 Min. = .75 oz Warrior
**Flame Out = 1oz. each of Citra/Galaxy/Mosaic
**Chill to 160 or below and add 1oz. each of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy. Stop chiller and allow hops to sit for 30 minute or so. Stir up/whirlpool wort every 5 minutes or so.
Chill to 62-64 and let hops settle out as much as possible. Transfer wort to fermenter. I tend to leave behind .75 gallons of trub and hops (this is why I brew 6.5 gallon batch).

**Dry Hop #1- At day 4-6 (basically when there are a few gravity points left and beer is still fermenting). Add the following to primary fermenter:
1.5 oz. Citra
1 oz. Mosaic
.5 oz. Galaxy

**Dry Hop #2 - Around day 12, transfer to CO2 purged dry hopping keg with
1.5 oz. Citra
1 oz. Mosaic
.5 oz. Galaxy
(I use this strategy: http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09...no-oxygen.html )

Day 14 - Jump from Dry hop keg to serving keg. Force carbonate to moderate/moderate-low. For carbonation, I usually hook it up at 25 psi for 2 days and then back it off to 10-12 psi - generally seems to carb up best after a few days, but fine to drink after 2-3 days.


Many folks who don't keg, or don't have a dry hopping keg ask about adding all the hops to primary, or adding all the hops in a single dry hop..... that isn't what I do, but you have to make things fit your system and your process. Others do it with fine success. There is no reason it should not work to do that if it fits your system better

WATER PROFILE:
There are multiple directions to go here. Currently, I am partial to the following water addtions - 100% RO water. I add per gallon of mash and sparge water -
Gypsum = .9 grams/gallon
CaCl = .4 grams/gallon
Epsom = .1 gram/gallon
Canning Salt = .05 grams/gallon


Lactic Acid = I add about .5ml- 1ml (total) of lactic acid to the mash and the sparge. And may adjust a bit more…. Aiming for about 5.35-5.45 mash pH and Preboil kettle pH.

Using B'run Water

Ca = 100
Mg = 5
Na = 13
Sulfate = 147
Chloride = 80
Bicarbonate = 16

Mash pH = 5.37-5.42
Final runnings pH = 5.60
Pre-boil Kettle pH = 5.40-5.45
Post Boil pH = 5.3-5.35

**Water strategies to test out for yourself to see what you like best;
2:1 Sulfate:Chloride in the 150:75 range
1:1 Sulfate:Chloride in the 120-150 range
1:2 Sulfate:Chloride in the 75:150 range
All will produce a good beer… but you may find something you personally prefer.
I did go 200 sulfate:50 Cl…… it was fine…. But, it was not what I was looking for. It definitely “dried” the beer out a bit. I think it definitely moved this beer away from what most of us are shooting for in a “Ne IPA.”

Water Profile - the simple solution:
***Many people ask about a more general guide to water because they do not know what their own water profile is, or they have not made the jump to using a water profile software. I use B'run water, and the above profile. However, if you just want to get in the ballpark of something "similar" to start with..... The simplest solution is this:
100% RO water for both mash and sparge.
Per 5 gallons of mash water: 1 tsp of CaCl + 1/2 tsp Gypsum
Per 5 gallons of sparge water: 1 tsp of CaCl + 1/2 tsp Gypsum

This should bring you in around 140 Chloride and 80 Sulfate.

Or….. to try other versions….
*The opposite: 1tsp of gypsum and ½ tsp of CaCl per 5 gallon
*Equal ratios: ¾ - 1 tsp of each per 5 gallon.

This does not take into account trying to get Na or Mg numbers. It ignores bicarbonate and as it is 100% RO, it should bring your mash pH in around 5.41 without any acid addition.

ROUGH estimate of grams to tsp of minerals:
1/4 tsp Gypsum = .9 grams
1/4 tsp CaCl = 1.1 grams
1/4 tsp Epsom Salt = 1.3 grams
1/4 tsp Canning Salt = 1.8 grams


FERMENTATION
Yeast - Conan(vermont IPA), 1318 is also a yeast many choose to use in beers like this. *** I have also found that 1272 works great. I am starting to think that there are many yeasts that would likely do just fine in beers like this. 1056, 1450, 007…. I would not be afraid to try other yeasts.
I tend to start fermentation off around 62-64 at let it free rise to 66-68 degrees through the first 3 days or so of fermentation. At that point, I like to move it somewhere that it can finish off in the 68-70-72 range.

OTHER THOUGHTS/NOTES:

I keep almost everything the same in brewing IPA's to this style. However, I do mix up the hops. I always bitter with warrior (Columbus on occasion), and always use 4 sets of 3 ounce additions at Flameout, Whirlpool, Dry Hop #1, Dry Hop #2....... but, not always the same hops. I sometimes do 100% Citra. I sometimes do equal parts of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy for all 4 additions (Grapefruit!!!!), I some times do equal parts (1.5 ounces) citra/mosaic at all 4 additions... But always the same basic amount, in the same basic schedule.
I think single hop versions of Mosaic or Galaxy would potentially be quite good. I have done 2:1 Citra:Columbus that was good. I like Simcoe/Amarillo/Centennial (but I keep centennial out of the dry hop as I find it “drying”). I have used Citra/Azacca – which was good (although Azacca can get lost as it is not as “strong” as some of the others). Personally, I think dank hops like Columbus, Eureka, etc. can get out of hand in beers like this and come off as harsh and grassy….. so, I tend to really limit them to smaller amounts. Lots of combos will work….. but, at the end of the day I still find it very hard to beat Citra:Mosaic:Galaxy combos.

I'm going to give this recipe a try tomorrow but I have a question about the water profile. If I plug this into my BnW spreadsheet and am using 100% RO water for mash and sparge, I'm not seeing a need for the lactic acid unless I'm missing something.

 

[Tarpon87]

I got similar to what you got, so I left out the lactic acid. Beer was outstanding. I don't have a pH meter so I was at the mercy of calculators but when I make this again I will probably leave out the acid again.

 

[Braufessor]

I'm going to give this recipe a try tomorrow but I have a question about the water profile. If I plug this into my BnW spreadsheet and am using 100% RO water for mash and sparge, I'm not seeing a need for the lactic acid unless I'm missing something.

View attachment 395152

View attachment 395153

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I kind of use a range of 5.35-5.45 of projected pH..... Yours is coming in at 5.46 (which should be fine by the way). So, a bit of lactic acid would lower that a touch. It kind of depends on exactly what additions a person chooses. When I use 125 on Sulfate and 125 on Chloride I don't use any lactic acid because the additional minerals drop the pH a touch more.
Bottom line is that 100% RO water, plus 70-140 ppm on both Chloride and Sulfate is going to be in the general ball park. A small addition of lactic acid may move the pH to the other end of the same ball park.

 

[Hannabrew]

I kind of use a range of 5.35-5.45 of projected pH..... Yours is coming in at 5.46 (which should be fine by the way). So, a bit of lactic acid would lower that a touch. It kind of depends on exactly what additions a person chooses. When I use 125 on Sulfate and 125 on Chloride I don't use any lactic acid because the additional minerals drop the pH a touch more.
Bottom line is that 100% RO water, plus 70-140 ppm on both Chloride and Sulfate is going to be in the general ball park. A small addition of lactic acid may move the pH to the other end of the same ball park.

Thanks for the clarification. One more question, if I were to add lactic, how do I calculate the sparge water addition in Bru'n Water? For the mash I can just add it in the water additions section but the sparge section seemingly won't allow lactic additions when using 100% RO water.

 

[berndawg84]

I plan on brewing one of these soon, with a combination of Citra, Mosaic and Vic Secret. Never had a beer with Vic Secret but I've heard it's great. I'm using the WeldWerks Juicy Bits recipe as a base and have tweaked it slightly. They use Citra, Mosaic and El Dorado as their hop combo for FWH, then flameout and whirlpool.

https://beerandbrewing.com/weldwerks-brewing-co-juicy-bits-new-england-style-ipa/

That recipe adds 0.15oz of each at FWH, and somehow get 55 IBUs. Not sure how they get that, based on using an IBU calculator. The other question is, does it even really make sense to use those hops as the first bittering addition? My understanding is that you don't get any flavor from that addition, which is why it seems you use Warrior and then do the fruity hops at flameout etc. So does it make the most sense to just use a bittering hop and then forgo the Citra, Mosaic etc until flameout? It would save me some money, I'd have to use a lot of Citra/Mosaic/Vic Secret at FWH to get even 55 IBUs. I have some Centennial, Columbus and Chinook lying around, I guess I could just use one of those as my FWH hop? Not sure I really like the flavor of Chinook though.

My other question is, once the boil is over, adding hops does not add IBUs, right? There seems to be a lot of debate about this, that it may not add measurable IBUs, but that in taste may add 10 or 20 IBUs or so, depending. Not too sure though.

 

[EcuPirate07]

I haven't messed with my keezer since pulling off some samples for @travelinglight and never put the pressure back up. I guess it oxidized quick that way because I went to pull a glass and the color has darkended and the flavor is becoming dull. Kinda perplexed by this because, if I'm not drinking the beer and the CO2 pressure is really low it shouldn't really matter because the levels should equalize and still no oxygen should get into the kegs. So maybe it's just past it's prime. IDK just thinking out loud here

 

[Braufessor]

Thanks for the clarification. One more question, if I were to add lactic, how do I calculate the sparge water addition in Bru'n Water? For the mash I can just add it in the water additions section but the sparge section seemingly won't allow lactic additions when using 100% RO water.

On the water adjustment sheet there is a box a bit further down in the acid section, under the sparge water column - it will give a suggestion there for acid amount. Basically, if you wanted to drop it down closer to 5.35 than to 5.45, .5-1ml in the mash and .5ml in the sparge would probably do the trick. Either way, you are approximately where you need to be, and I can't say that it would make a detectable difference either way.

 

[stickyfinger]

My other question is, once the boil is over, adding hops does not add IBUs, right? There seems to be a lot of debate about this, that it may not add measurable IBUs, but that in taste may add 10 or 20 IBUs or so, depending. Not too sure though.

Not only do you get IBUs from hops added after you cut the heat, you can get IBUs from dry hopping.

 

[MerlinWerks]

Thanks for the clarification. One more question, if I were to add lactic, how do I calculate the sparge water addition in Bru'n Water? For the mash I can just add it in the water additions section but the sparge section seemingly won't allow lactic additions when using 100% RO water.

You can search around to verify, but I believe Martin has said a few different times that you really don't need to acidify the sparge water if you are using 100% RO. It's really the alkalinity that you are trying to overcome by acidifying and for all intents and purposes RO doesn't have any.

 

[Braufessor]

You can search around to verify, but I believe Martin has said a few different times that you really don't need to acidify the sparge water if you are using 100% RO. It's really the alkalinity that you are trying to overcome by acidifying and for all intents and purposes RO doesn't have any.

This is correct.

I do find that if I have a certain mash pH..... say, 5.40 for instance..... and I sparge with RO water - the wort I collect in the boil kettle will have a higher pH (maybe 5.45-5.47 or something like that). So, sometimes if I know I am already kind of on the high edge of desired pH in the mash, I will add just .5ml of lactic to the sparge water and that seems to hold the pH steady from mash to the collected wort, pre boil.

That is really the only reason I might add a small amount of acid to the sparge water if I am using RO water.

 

[Brewintheskywithdiamonds]

Braufessor,

Two quick questions that may have been answered in 350 pages of comments, but not on any of the ones I have read.

1) Do you use any whirl floc or irish moss ? Any yeast nutrient or zinc ?

2) do you cold crash ? what temp do you serve out of keg ?

Thank you !

 

[Braufessor]

Braufessor,

Two quick questions that may have been answered in 350 pages of comments, but not on any of the ones I have read.

1) Do you use any whirl floc or irish moss ? Any yeast nutrient or zinc ?

2) do you cold crash ? what temp do you serve out of keg ?

Thank you !

I do use yeast Wyeast yeast nutrient. 1/2 tsp toward end of boil.

I have used irish moss in the past in this beer..... I don't anymore. Can't say I noticed much difference. Just seemed kind of pointless to add it to this beer. I have never used Whirfloc.

I do not cold crash. Although, I do move the beer to my basement (which is about 62 degrees) and I put my fermenter up on counter top I transfer from 2 days before I keg - just to let it settle out.

Honestly, not sure what my kegerators are set at...... probably high 30's, or low 40's would be my guess. I would have to check though to be sure.

 

[BrewinSoldier]

Just brewed my second go at this yesterday. Every thing was going sooo smooth, until the 60 min hop addition. Instead of adding the warrior, I accidentally added .50 ounces of citra, and made up the rest with .25 ounces of warrior. The final result is very bitter. I never use citra as a bittering hop since I've read so many bad things. Did I ruin my beer? From the sample I had after the boil was done, it was extremely bitter. I know there was a lot of Hop matter still floating around but I am wondering if the extreme bitterness is because I used the Citra for bittering. I really really hope it doesn't ruin my beer because everything else was perfect and all my numbers are spot-on. I ended up using gigayeast Vermont IPA double pitch this time around instead of the 1318 which dried my last beer out way too much. Fingers are crossed for sure

 

[Hannabrew]

I'm not expert but I would think the opposite, adding less warrior and more citra would make it LESS bitter as the AA% is lower for Citra (15% vs 12%).

Coincidentally I did the same thing on purpose as I only had .55 oz or Warrior so I added .35 oz of citra to make up the IBUs.

If you just brewed it yesterday I don't think you can tell too much from the wort into the fermenter taste.

 

[BrewinSoldier]

I'm not expert but I would think the opposite, adding less warrior and more citra would make it LESS bitter as the AA% is lower for Citra (15% vs 12%).

Coincidentally I did the same thing on purpose as I only had .55 oz or Warrior so I added .35 oz of citra to make up the IBUs.

If you just brewed it yesterday I don't think you can tell too much from the wort into the fermenter taste.

How did it come out? Everything I've read about bittering with citra says it comes out with a super harsh bitterness and tasting like cat piss. I hope that's incorrect.

 

[emr25]

Latest batch (our 3rd NE IPA) is our best yet. First batch in a SS Brewtech BME Chronical as well, which kept the process closed from yeast pitch to keg transfer (other than dry hop additions, but the headspace in the conical was flushed with CO2).

Simplified the malt bill some and tried to get more complexity out of the hop bill. Pretty excited with the result!

Brewed 3/17
Kegged 3/30

OG - 1.060
FG - 1.012
ABV - ~6.3%

Malts
5 lbs 2-Row
5 lbs Maris Otter
2.5 lbs White Wheat
12 oz Carapils
8 oz C-30L

157* Mash Temp

Hops
30 Min - 5 mL Hop Extract
10 Min - 0.5 oz Columbus
Flameout - 1 oz Columbus / 1 oz Citra / 1 oz Mosaic / 1 oz Ella
165* Hop Stand - 1 oz Columbus / 1 oz Citra / 1 oz Mosaic / 1 oz Ella

Yeast London Ale 3 (WY1318)

DH Day 2 - 1 oz Citra / 1 oz Mosaic / 1 oz Ella
DH Day 10 - 1 oz Citra / 1 oz Mosaic / 1 oz Ella

 

[Hannabrew]

How did it come out? Everything I've read about bittering with citra says it comes out with a super harsh bitterness and tasting like cat piss. I hope that's incorrect.

Not sure, I just racked it to the fermenter an hour ago. It was definitely bitter going in but that's to be expected when you throw 6 oz of hops in after flame out.

I'm not sure where the cat piss theory comes from but the Pseudo Sue recipe is all Citra including the bittering hops and that was delicious.

 

[cheesebach]

How did it come out? Everything I've read about bittering with citra says it comes out with a super harsh bitterness and tasting like cat piss. I hope that's incorrect.

That just can't be right - otherwise, how would beers like pseudoSue and zombie dust be so damn tasty? My personal feeling is that the cat piss thing comes from and interaction between the hops and certain strains of yeast, but that is speculation based on personal experience with the few times I've tasted it in commercial beers (mostly simcoe heavy beers). I wouldn't worry - it'll taste a lot less harsh after all the hop gunk and break material settles out after fermentation.