New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[rosscoh]

When I add honey malt the beer just gets way too dark. Any suggestions @braufessor? I'm obsessed with the lighter color beer that looks like orange juice.

52% Pale 2-Row - US
15% White Wheat - US
14% Flaked Oats - US
6% Carapils - Dextrine Malt - US
1% Honey Malt - CA

10 min boil additions for higher gravity:
6% Dry Malt Extract - ExtraLight
6% Corn Sugar (Dextrose) - US

Using 1318 and a fully temp controlled fermentation. Mashed at 154.

Primo water treated to about 160ppm chloride and 90 sulfate. Shooting for mash PH of 5.4

Doing first dry hop at peak ferm. Second after closed transfer to filtered dry hopping keg.

Should I remove the DME and the corn sugar at the ten min mark? Have a feeling the DME isn't helping with the color I'm after due to potential malliard reaction.

 

[milldoggy]

Found a new brewery in Nashville yesterday who is brewing the NE style ipa and doing a terrrific job. Very similar taste to the recipe here. They also do a very interesting west coast ipa that had a clean yeast but used the same hops that we are using here and they secondary it on toasted coconut for about a week. Insanely good! It is now on my very short list to try and brew. They were using 30lbs of coconut in there 4bbl system. Thought I would share the unique twist I found to this style beer. Food for thought.

What brewery?

 

[olotti]

When I add honey malt the beer just gets way too dark. Any suggestions @braufessor? I'm obsessed with the lighter color beer that looks like orange juice.

52% Pale 2-Row - US
15% White Wheat - US
14% Flaked Oats - US
6% Carapils - Dextrine Malt - US
1% Honey Malt - CA

10 min boil additions for higher gravity:
6% Dry Malt Extract - ExtraLight
6% Corn Sugar (Dextrose) - US

Using 1318 and a fully temp controlled fermentation. Mashed at 154.

Primo water treated to about 160ppm chloride and 90 sulfate. Shooting for mash PH of 5.4

Doing first dry hop at peak ferm. Second after closed transfer to filtered dry hopping keg.

Should I remove the DME and the corn sugar at the ten min mark? Have a feeling the DME isn't helping with the color I'm after due to potential malliard reaction.

Just my opinion but if you want that lighter colored beer ditch the honey malt and dime and then just up the 2 row. Idk I've used honey malt, c10 in diff recipes I really don't know if they ever come through in such small amounts since really it's all about the hops. Mashing high like you are in the 154 range will leave a lot more body plus the chloride you should be good there.

 

[surgical_ass]

What brewery?

Southern grist in East Nashville

 

[Braufessor]

Pretty sure there is no way a 4 ounces of honey malt is making the beer too dark. It is only 27L. My bet is that the darkness is coming from the DME perhaps??? Even the lightest DME is darker than you would think in the end.

I use about 4 ounces of honey malt in all of mine and they are never dark.

I guess the other thing I would wonder about is why add 6% carapils and 6% Corn sugar..... seems like they are just doing battle with each other. I guess, personally, I would just turn the carpools, DME and Corn Sugar all into 2 Row or Golden Promise. Or, perhaps, a bit less of the base grain and keep the corn sugar if you want the beer to be more fermentable.

Otherwise, I think it looks pretty good.

 

[val214]

Second batch using mosaic, simcoe and Columbus.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1466307654.828139.jpg

 

[EMH5]

@Braufessor
My LHBS was out of American 2-row, Golden Promise and American Wheat so I had to adjust on the fly and made a British malt IPA 10 # UK 2-row, 4# Halcyon, .5# torrified wheat... For British Eyes Only IPA (nod to Arrested Development) with Citra, Centennial and Chinook - I like it. Definitely hopped like a west coast but a good beer. Chinook adds a spicy character which is nice and a hint of grapefruit. This is very different from my first Citra, Amarillo, Centennial IPA based on your recipe which I like a little better but I'm happy with this one. I just wanted to give you an update!

 

[lilbova3]

When I add honey malt the beer just gets way too dark. Any suggestions @braufessor? I'm obsessed with the lighter color beer that looks like orange juice.



52% Pale 2-Row - US

15%White Wheat - US

14%Flaked Oats - US

6%Carapils - Dextrine Malt - US

1%Honey Malt - CA



10 min boil additions for higher gravity:

6%Dry Malt Extract - ExtraLight

6%Corn Sugar (Dextrose) - US



Using 1318 and a fully temp controlled fermentation. Mashed at 154.



Primo water treated to about 160ppm chloride and 90 sulfate. Shooting for mash PH of 5.4



Doing first dry hop at peak ferm. Second after closed transfer to filtered dry hopping keg.



Should I remove the DME and the corn sugar at the ten min mark? Have a feeling the DME isn't helping with the color I'm after due to potential malliard reaction.

Other thing I can think of is scorching during the boil or if it's getting slightly oxidized if you bottle.

 

[brewski09]

Found a new brewery in Nashville yesterday who is brewing the NE style ipa and doing a terrrific job. Very similar taste to the recipe here. They also do a very interesting west coast ipa that had a clean yeast but used the same hops that we are using here and they secondary it on toasted coconut for about a week. Insanely good! It is now on my very short list to try and brew. They were using 30lbs of coconut in there 4bbl system. Thought I would share the unique twist I found to this style beer. Food for thought.

A couple breweries make coconut IPAs in Columbus and they are decidedly west coast. The coconut goes well with tropical hops for sure. Wish I liked coconut now.

 

[surgical_ass]

A couple breweries make coconut IPAs in Columbus and they are decidedly west coast. The coconut goes well with tropical hops for sure. Wish I liked coconut now.

I can't stand to eat it. I think it's a texture thing but I love the smell and the taste it gives off. If that makes any sense. Will be brewing this very soon

 

[stickyfinger]

Pretty sure there is no way a 4 ounces of honey malt is making the beer too dark. It is only 27L. My bet is that the darkness is coming from the DME perhaps??? Even the lightest DME is darker than you would think in the end.

I use about 4 ounces of honey malt in all of mine and they are never dark.

I guess the other thing I would wonder about is why add 6% carapils and 6% Corn sugar..... seems like they are just doing battle with each other. I guess, personally, I would just turn the carpools, DME and Corn Sugar all into 2 Row or Golden Promise. Or, perhaps, a bit less of the base grain and keep the corn sugar if you want the beer to be more fermentable.

Otherwise, I think it looks pretty good.

corn sugar with carapils is good if you want lighter flavor with good head retention

 

[lilbova3]

Juicy pale ale. Looking forward to this getting carbed. Mosaic/Galaxy/Citra in 1.25/1/1 ratio then dry hopped with Galaxy/Mosaic in 2/1 ratio.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1466383529.188200.jpg

 

[arnobg]

What are results like with US-05 or S-04 if anyone has used these? I want to brew tomorrow and have everything except the yeast, but I do have some dry that I keep for backup.

 

[LJvermonster]

What are results like with US-05 or S-04 if anyone has used these? I want to brew tomorrow and have everything except the yeast, but I do have some dry that I keep for backup.

I was trying to upload a photo but HBT isn't working right now. I used US-05 and it came out great. The body is thick and the taste/aroma is spot on. The only problem is it ALWAYS finishes too low. Mine finished at 1.009 and was really looking for the 1.012-1.014 range (although not sure I'd be able to taste the difference in 3 to 5 points.

 

[arnobg]

I was trying to upload a photo but HBT isn't working right now. I used US-05 and it came out great. The body is thick and the taste/aroma is spot on. The only problem is it ALWAYS finishes too low. Mine finished at 1.009 and was really looking for the 1.012-1.014 range (although not sure I'd be able to taste the difference in 3 to 5 points.

Good to know, what did you mash at do you think that could make a difference mashing a little higher? I tend to like my IPA's dry and will mash low 148-150 but I realize this style of IPA doesn't exactly go with that thought.

 

[LJvermonster]

I mashed at 154 for 40 minutes. OG was 1.060. Also only boiled for 30 minutes. I lost a bunch off efficiency but saved 1.5 hrs in the process.

This beer is supposed to be anything but dry.

 

[user 141939]

I'd like to get a better idea of how everyone is handling the second dry - hopping part of this beer as I am sure not everyone is using the beer flavored method and I'm not ready to drop the money on all those crazy screens yet. I also haven't seen too much talk about it on this thread lately.

I could do all dry hopping in primary and cold crash before transfer to serving keg. I can at least flush head space with CO2 as needed.

Or I could CO2 transfer into secondary keg, dry hop, cold crash in there and then transfer to serving keg. If I cold crash first I can just dump the first pint or two before moving to serving keg????

 

[LJvermonster]

I'd like to get a better idea of how everyone is handling the second dry - hopping part of this beer as I am sure not everyone is using the beer flavored method and I'm not ready to drop the money on all those crazy screens yet. I also haven't seen too much talk about it on this thread lately.

I could do all dry hopping in primary and cold crash before transfer to serving keg. I can at least flush head space with CO2 as needed.

Or I could CO2 transfer into secondary keg, dry hop, cold crash in there and then transfer to serving keg. If I cold crash first I can just dump the first pint or two before moving to serving keg????

I did all my dry hopping in the primary and the aroma is amazing. I dry hopped 5 days outside of the fridge, then transferred to a keg. I couldn't imagine a second round of dry hopping would actually make much difference.

 

[kaz4121]

I couldn't imagine a second round of dry hopping would actually make much difference.

Mitch Steele, Vinnie Cilurzo, Matt Brynildson , and Jamil Zainasheff, among others, would disagree.

 

[brew703]

Here's my first batch. Very good. Definite keeper and will brew again. Not as hazy as I thought it would be.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1466458493.686627.jpg

 

[brewkinger]

I just opened mine up to add first dry hops and WOW!!!!
Looked amazing and smelled amazing.
Second dry hop on Thursday and bottle on Saturday

 

[LJvermonster]

Mitch Steele, Vinnie Cilurzo, Matt Brynildson , and Jamil Zainasheff, among others, would disagree.

Maybe I should have phrased that I wouldn't have the need for a second dry hop. This beer, after a single 5 day dry hop session, has more aroma than 95% of commercial beers I've had. Sure, maybe it's not as potent as Sip of Sunshine or Heady Topper, but it's also not so far off.

So, for me, the added step, time, and costs wouldn't be necessary.

 

[user 141939]

Maybe I should have phrased that I wouldn't have the need for a second dry hop. This beer, after a single 5 day dry hop session, has more aroma than 95% of commercial beers I've had. Sure, maybe it's not as potent as Sip of Sunshine or Heady Topper, but it's also not so far off.

So, for me, the added step, time, and costs wouldn't be necessary.

Are you just adding both first and second dry hop (per the original recipe) all at once or are you just skipping the second dry hop altogether?

I hope that question makes sense.

 

[Calaeb]

Probably a dumb question, but when you say jump from dry hop keg to serving keg, is it fine to just do all the dry hop in the fermentor?

 

[brewkinger]

Probably a dumb question, but when you say jump from dry hop keg to serving keg, is it fine to just do all the dry hop in the fermentor?

Your question is confusing.

YES, it is fine to put all dry hop additions into the fermenter. That is pretty much the most common method.

Some people will add dry hop additions directly to the keg and then gas it up and serve.

Make sense?

 

[Braufessor]

Probably a dumb question, but when you say jump from dry hop keg to serving keg, is it fine to just do all the dry hop in the fermentor?

Not sure if I understand correctly.....

Are you basically saying that you would put all dry hops in fermenter, and then go straight to bottle or serving keg from there?

Sure - you could do that - especially if you are not begging, that is pretty much what you need to do.

I do 2 different dry hops for a couple reasons.

1.) All the cool kids do it But seriously, it seems to be a process that is recommended by a large percentage of professional brewers making the best IPA's.

2.) And this might be a little more significant for me and my process - The dry hop keg, and its double filter, allows me to easily (and oxygen free) let stuff settle out and get left behind in the dry hop keg as opposed to sending it all into the serving keg where it can degrade, break down, or simply clog up the posts. It allows me to transfer cleaner beer into the serving vessel.

 

[Braufessor]

Couple new variations in the pipeline.

1.) Getting ready to sample and move to dry hop keg for second dry hop - Same basic version but used three different "Hop Blends" for the hopping - Zythos, Falconers Flight, 7 C's. Probably dry hop keg today, so anxious to give it a taste. 1 ounce each in 2 kettle additions. Going with 1.5 ounces each of FF and Zythos (no 7 C's) in dry hop. Sometimes I find the "C" hops like centennial coming off dry/harsh in dry hops.

2.) Original recipe but switched water additions. Went with 150 Sulfate, 70 Chloride. Fermenting now.

3.) Two Amber versions. #1 should be carbed..... Centennial/Simcoe/Amarillo. #2 will be getting dry hop #2 on Thursday - Centennial/Nugget/Liberty. Curious how this recipe transitions to an amber ale.

 

[brew703]

Couple new variations in the pipeline.

1.) Getting ready to sample and move to dry hop keg for second dry hop - Same basic version but used three different "Hop Blends" for the hopping - Zythos, Falconers Flight, 7 C's. Probably dry hop keg today, so anxious to give it a taste. 1 ounce each in 2 kettle additions. Going with 1.5 ounces each of FF and Zythos (no 7 C's) in dry hop. Sometimes I find the "C" hops like centennial coming off dry/harsh in dry hops.

2.) Original recipe but switched water additions. Went with 150 Sulfate, 70 Chloride. Fermenting now.

3.) Two Amber versions. #1 should be carbed..... Centennial/Simcoe/Amarillo. #2 will be getting dry hop #2 on Thursday - Centennial/Nugget/Liberty. Curious how this recipe transitions to an amber ale.

I was thinking about doing an amber version of this. Are you simply adding some crystal?

 

[Braufessor]

I was thinking about doing an amber version of this. Are you simply adding some crystal?

Trying to keep the crystal on the low side, but still get the 11-14 range of SRM.

Dropping the honey malt out to avoid the "sweetness" from going overboard.

The batch I am fermenting right now I used only a quarter pound of C-60 I think. Then, used 2-3 ounces of Roast Barley to get the rest of the color.

We'll see how a some of these are going later today and I will report back.

 

[milldoggy]

I used red x as a base malt on a similar recipe and turned out almost and provide a nice Amber/red color