So it seems I spoke too soon. Still having troubles with my ferment. Don't want to further jack this thread, so if you care to help, please see this one. Thanks.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=575948
New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA
- Thread starter Braufessor
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So it seems I spoke too soon. Still having troubles with my ferment. Don't want to further jack this thread, so if you care to help, please see this one. Thanks.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=575948
OP
OP
I throw irish moss in from time to time - mainly out of habit and without thinking. Sometimes I think about it and say to my self - "why are you bothering with irish moss in a beer that is designed to be hazy?" And then I don't throw it in. Never really noticed a difference either way that I can tell.
milldoggy
Well-Known Member
I still add it out of habit, no other reason. I add it at 5 mins left in boil though.
sheikyerbouti
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Just dropped an additional 1oz of galaxy in the keg since I'm using the screen and I'm not racking to a second keg. Plus, you can never have too much galaxy.
-I do what I want
lol
-I do what I want
lol
BrandonSmith1011
Member
Higher mash temp (156-160) will give a better mouthfeel and produce a sweeter beer, due to the non-fermentable sugars produced at those temps, correct?
OP
OP
Correct...... I tend not to go above 156..... maybe 158 for some beers, although I have not done so on this beer.
OP
OP
The best IPA I've ever brewed. Cheers Braufessor, you've added so much great information on this thread!
Awesome! Glad it turned out well for you. Keep tweaking the recipe to your taste. That is the "secret"...... brewing it over and over and over to really dial it in.
I am just getting ready do second dry hop on a new version - Amarillo/Simcoe/Centennial. The sample out of the fermenter tastes pretty good. Be curious to see how this one turns out - I tend to stick to the citra/mosaic/galaxy combo.
I also appreciate this thread. Can't wait til mine is finished. Here's a pic from earlier tonight when I took my 5 day gravity reading. Looks perfect! Dropped in the first dry hop of Mosaic and Citra. Gravity is down to 1.014, so no issues with the ferment!
brewski09
Well-Known Member
rnm410
Well-Known Member
Great recipe, this is pretty much where I landed on my own. I will say NE IPA> NW IPA, problem is I am in the PNW. So I want this beer.
What I don't have is 30+ iterations in brewing this beer, so I do have a few questions.
1. Does going all MO/Golden Promise as the base malt (subbing 2 row out) lend too much of a malty character?
2. At 2-4% how important of a role do you adjuncts play, have you exBeerimented with removing one and increasing something else?
3. Have you tried swinging the sulfate to chloride ratio towards more sulfate than chlorides, if, what was the impact?
4. Have you tried S04, S05, 1056, Notty? (that is what is available to me)
I do understand the barley and wheat for body and head retention, I do understand the oats for that thick milky creamy juice NE style IPA and I do understand the chloride to enhance the mouth/taste of the beer. However I want to learn from your iterations of this recipe.
Thanks,
Ryan
brewski09
Well-Known Member
Heady topper (and I assume focal banger) don't use wheat despite many of the homebrew recipes using it) d/t Kimmich's wife being gluten sensitive. Just 1 example of a NE IPA with body/head retention and no wheat.
I'm also interested in #4. I think that the MO/GP question in #1 is going to be personal preference.
brewski09
Well-Known Member
Yes. Any brewing software will add in gravity from those for you. I'm not sure what the potential gravity is from them but it is different than malted barley. That have to be mashed with a base grain or added enzymes though.
rnm410
Well-Known Member
To clarify what I meant in #1.
Base malt options:
All MO or GP with no 2-Row
All 2-Row no MO or GP
Would this swing the maltiness of the beer from not enough or too much?
milldoggy
Well-Known Member
I use all MO in my NE ipas, they come out amazing, no too malty. As an experiment, I used all redx in my last one. Keg it last night, did not taste to malty.
OP
OP
I just did a version of this with all Pearl for the base malt. I would absolutely try it with all MO or GP.
No... not really. I think overall, the 8-12% range of flaked "something" (oats/wheat/barley) is important...... but whether it is 2% of "this" or 4 % of "that" ...... I don't think that matters. I do think 4% of Honey Malt adds something...... Honey malt is potent. It gives a nice sweetness and a bit of color. 2-4% of honey malt goes a long way.
I have brewed beers with 2:1 sulfate to chloride instead of the other way around...... It dries the beer out. It makes the hops crisper, more assertive. I think it takes away the "roundness" and "Smoothness" of the hops. I definitely like the higher chloride compared to sulfate. I think that is VERY important in a beer like this.
I have actually never used dry yeast in my life...... primarily habit. 1056 would work fine for sure. I think the SO4 would work nice. I know some professional brewers who use that yeast in beers along these lines. If I was going with dry yeast.... I would go with the SO4.
rnm410
Well-Known Member
milldoggy
Well-Known Member
I do, I use a hop strainer around my dip tube made from 28x28 mesh, built thread in my signature. It filters almost all hop debris. Recently I start also using a large stainless hop spider. I add all the hops to the spider, the hop strainer around my dip tube get anything that comes through the spider. I get super clear wort. Flavor wise, it is about the same with or without the spider. During my hop standing, I regularly shake and pull the spider up and down to ensure wort is moving around the spider.
The reason for both was I was getting real slow flow with just the strainer. It worked great, but I just knew it was going to completely clog one day.
OP
OP
I don't strain - but I have dead space at the bottom of my kettle, below my spigot. I let everything settle out before transferring and just simply leave .75-1 gallon behind that is loaded with trub, and hops. The wort I transfer is pretty clear.
I do that as much for ease of transfers down the line as I do it for "flavor" concerns.
brewski09
Well-Known Member
S-04 dry yeast should be a dry whitbread strain (similar to wlp007?). US-05 is Chico, so wy1056/wlp001/a number of others. I do notice gen 1 of US-05 has something weird going on so if at least do a starter.
As for Notty, fermenting a bit lower with it gives a nice IPA/apa beer but I'd personally go with the Chico strain given those options on this kind of recipe.
Brewed my version of this yesterday. 12# of grain, 0.75oz Warrior for bittering, 4oz Citra and 2oz Galaxy during the flameout/whirlpool. 1318 starter for yeast. I went in with 8 gallons of water (6 for the mash, 2 for the sparge) and finished with about 4.25 so I way overshot my OG. I ended up at 1.074 but was targeting around 1.055. It must have been a combo of an aggressive boil and not getting enough wort out of the grains.
I'm wondering if I should top it off with some boiled and cooled water to bring the gravity down. Thoughts on that? It's currently in the krausen stage. According to Brewer's Friend, if I add 0.75g, it should bring it down to 1.063. BF also indicates it should slightly lower the FG from 1.019 to 1.016.
I'm wondering if I should top it off with some boiled and cooled water to bring the gravity down. Thoughts on that? It's currently in the krausen stage. According to Brewer's Friend, if I add 0.75g, it should bring it down to 1.063. BF also indicates it should slightly lower the FG from 1.019 to 1.016.
OP
OP
Hmmmm..... I have not added water to a fermenter once it got going. Have always topped off at end of boil if I was off on volume/gravity.
Maybe someone else can chime in if they have. I would say this - the sooner the better if you are going to add water. You want to get it in there while the yeast is still able to take up any excess oxygen it would add. Early on, that should not be a problem I wouldn't think.
Maybe someone else can chime in if they have. I would say this - the sooner the better if you are going to add water. You want to get it in there while the yeast is still able to take up any excess oxygen it would add. Early on, that should not be a problem I wouldn't think.
Yeah, that's kind of my thinking. It's now or never. I can live with it being a little higher ABV but I was looking forward to something slightly more sessionable. And I'd like it on the drier side of things. If I go home and add it during lunch, it will be about 18 hours since I pitched the starter.
Another benefit is that it will raise the liquid level and give me a better reading on my temp probe. The thermowell is only about an inch into the beer so I don't think I am getting a good reading and that could throw off my temp control.
The tricky part is getting the water into the fermentor with minimal splashing. I was going to boil 0.75 gallons of RO water and then cool it. I could dump it in with a funnel but that might oxygenate it more than I want. But if fermentation is still aggressive, maybe that won't be a bad thing.
Another benefit is that it will raise the liquid level and give me a better reading on my temp probe. The thermowell is only about an inch into the beer so I don't think I am getting a good reading and that could throw off my temp control.
The tricky part is getting the water into the fermentor with minimal splashing. I was going to boil 0.75 gallons of RO water and then cool it. I could dump it in with a funnel but that might oxygenate it more than I want. But if fermentation is still aggressive, maybe that won't be a bad thing.
OP
OP
At 18 hours splashing should not be a huge deal..... that is early on and the yeast will take up any oxygen.
Good, because I was trying to decant slowly down a convex spoon handle and quickly said "f that" and just poured it in! I boiled and cooled the RO water so infection is probably not likely. I went with a full extra gallon.
brewski09
Well-Known Member
1. Get a fermenter with a wide mouth. Submerge the cones in sterilized water to eliminate air bubbles, then add to fermenter.
2. Failing at #1, just shove them all in there and hope that any air trapped in the cones doesn't affect anything. Rack from underneath the floating cones. Works best when fermentation is not yet complete.
3. Weighted hop bag? (sanitized nylon stockings) Easier said getting it into/removing it from a carboy than done.
Has anyone experimented with any of these New Zealand varieties? I was looking specifically for descriptions of fruits and these all sound so good but I'm not sure how it would translate into this beer...
Pacific Gem (berry, blackberry, oak)
Rakau (stone fruit, fig, apricot, pine)
Riwaka (passion fruit, grapefruit, citrus)
Pacific Gem (berry, blackberry, oak)
Rakau (stone fruit, fig, apricot, pine)
Riwaka (passion fruit, grapefruit, citrus)
drewmarkwith
Well-Known Member
I've used riwaka and the citrus flavor morphed into an unpleasant earthiness after day 2 of dry hopping(used it for 7 days I think).
I would recommend using it at flame out or whirlpool with other hops, and only dry hop for 2 days with it
I would recommend using it at flame out or whirlpool with other hops, and only dry hop for 2 days with it
Pacific Gem meshes well with melon-forward hops
I have used Rakau (they were sent to me erroneously by a home brew shop in Australia- was trying to procure Riwaka). Needless to say - I used them. Decent beer - had kind of a peachy/stone fruit aroma and flavor profile.
Just used Riwaka last week - so can't comment on that yet.
Just used Riwaka last week - so can't comment on that yet.
Sounds like a good match for Conan or 1318. Pair stone fruit hops with stone fruit yeast. Maybe some Pacific Gem would be a good compliment?
LJvermonster
Well-Known Member
I sanitize a 5 gal paint strainer bag (bought a 25 pack on amazon) and put it over my primary and dump everything in. Kills two birds 1) the hops are stained and 2) wort is fully oxygenated.
Note : best to have another person holding the strainer over the primary. If you do it by yourself pour slower and be cautious!
