New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[TxBigHops]

I just tested some warmish tap water. 1.004.

I guess I missed my FG by quite a bit less than I thought. Although this also means I missed my OG by that much more as well, so I suppose my ABV is still gonna be mid 5s.

Yes, your hydrometer is definitely off, but "warmish" isn't good enough. You also need to know the exact temp of the water, and preferably adjust it to the calibration temp of the hydrometer, probably 60 degrees. It will be indicated somewhere on the tube.

 

[whovous]

Yes, your hydrometer is definitely off, but "warmish" isn't good enough. You also need to know the exact temp of the water, and preferably adjust it to the calibration temp of the hydrometer, probably 60 degrees. It will be indicated somewhere on the tube.

Measured again, took temp and used adjustment tables. Yup, water is 1.004. This means my OG was 1.055, my FG 1.015, and my ABV 5.25%. Original target was 6.7%, so I am off by quite a bit. Still, it made for the best tasting wort I've ever had, so life is not all bad. OK, it is not wort anymore once it is fermented...

 

[MerlinWerks]

In case anyone is interested - this is the blonde ale I make...

...Just looking for a light, easy drinking beer that takes no dry hop and makes a nice pile of clean yeast for harvesting. People drink the hell out of this beer though - I can never keep it on tap. I like it myself, wife likes it and guests tend to demolish it.

Since you brew this with yeast harvesting in mind, do you use a hop bag/spider or simply let them go commando? Up until this point I've always used a spider but I got a pick-up tube for my kettle and want experiment with letting the hops roam free, but I still would like to keep hop debris in the harvest to a minimum. OTOH, I suppose with a lightly hopped beer like this the effects of any residual hops in the yeast harvest will most likely be negligible.

I will be brewing something very similar this weekend. Had a blonde ale with liberty at a local brewpub last week and really enjoyed it, a nice break from all the citrus floating around

 

[Braufessor]

Since you brew this with yeast harvesting in mind, do you use a hop bag/spider or simply let them go commando? Up until this point I've always used a spider but I got a pick-up tube for my kettle and want experiment with letting the hops roam free, but I still would like to keep hop debris in the harvest to a minimum. OTOH, I suppose with a lightly hopped beer like this the effects of any residual hops in the yeast harvest will most likely be negligible.

I will be brewing something very similar this weekend. Had a blonde ale with liberty at a local brewpub last week and really enjoyed it, a nice break from all the citrus floating around

I have went away from ever using spiders, screens, bags, etc. All my hops at all stages are commando. I put the screens over my dip tube in dry hopping keg, but hops are free in the beer outside those screens. There is basically no hop material left in the blonde I make. I brew 6.5 gallons and let everything drop out and fall to the bottom in the kettle. I have about 3/4 of a gallon dead space at bottom of my kettle under my spigot. When I transfer chilled wort to fermenter, I leave it all behind, and I collect the first cup or two of wort in a pan for hydrometer, pH reading etc..... that has some hops and trub .... but after that, I am transferring wort I can pretty much see through. I don't dry hop the blonde ale..... So, in the end, it is basically almost all beer and yeast with very little other particulate matter.

I agree that some hop and other particulate probably does not really matter that much. But, I generally try to generate clean yeast if I can, as it is not that hard to do with the system I have.

*Liberty is a real nice hop, overlooked, easily available and cheap. I use it in the blonde an amber and in some other lagers as well.

 

[MerlinWerks]

Thanks for the reply, all commando hops is the direction I'm heading. It started with dry-hopping, I used to put the hops in a 300u dry-hopper, now the dry-hopper goes over the keg dip-tube, then a Wilserbrewer hop sock goes over that and gets ty-wrapped at the top, dry-hop then transfer to a serving keg. When I started doing this the difference in what I got out of the dry-hop was quite noticeable. I'm hoping I'll get similar results with the boil hops...

 

[rsalan]

I'm gonna be bottling this this weekend. Brau, how is the bitterness at your estimated 50 IBUs in comparison to Tree House? I am planning to do all my late hop additions by whirlpooling at sub-125F degree temperatures to prevent any isomerization for my next brew, and keep it at only 30-35 IBUs from the bittering addition.

 

[Braufessor]

I have only had treehouse once.... and that was quite a while ago. So, I hesitate to really compare it. Definitely not as bitter as Sip of Sunshine, or Heady Topper or most of the Toppling Goliath beers. I will say it is not "bitter." I have a lot of people who tell me they really don't like "bitter" beer, but they love this beer because it tastes like hops and smells like hops...... but it is not bitter like other IPA's they have.

I like the idea of sub 125 addition.... I am not real precise about temp on my whirlpool hops. I shut off flame add first addition, start chiller. In less than 5 minutes I know I am under 160 ....as I can put my hand on outside of my kettle and not burn myself. I throw in the next addition and shut off chiller and do 30-40 minute hop stand, stirring it up every few minutes. So, none of my whirlpool hops are staying at 180+ for very long at all, and the second half are probably going in closer to 140 than they are 180.

 

[rsalan]

Nice! I can't wait to taste it at bottling! The Northern Brewer calculator recommends 4.04 oz of priming sugar for 2.4 vol of C02 for American IPAs. Should I aim lower?

 

[Braufessor]

Nice! I can't wait to taste it at bottling! The Northern Brewer calculator recommends 4.04 oz of priming sugar for 2.4 vol of C02 for American IPAs. Should I aim lower?

My guess is that I am in the 2.1-2.2 range. I like my beer on the lower end of carbonation. Sometimes that is something you have to experiment around with for your own preferences too. But, I think with a beer like this you want it smooth and soft, and sometimes a carbonation bite can sort of make it sharp or harsh. Not that there is a monumental difference between 2.4 and 2.1 though either.

 

[umad]

Brewed this recipe Thursday with a few minor tweaks in the malt bill. I will be bottling and not kegging unfortunately.

I'm leaning towards doing all the dry hops at once in a single additions to avoid oxygenation. No bag, just free floating hops unless 6 plus ounces is too much to dry hop without a bag.

 

[Braufessor]

Brewed this recipe Thursday with a few minor tweaks in the malt bill. I will be bottling and not kegging unfortunately.

I'm leaning towards doing all the dry hops at once in a single additions to avoid oxygenation. No bag, just free floating hops unless 6 plus ounces is too much to dry hop without a bag.

As long as you have a way to drop most of it out of suspension.... cold crash or something..... I think it is a fine way to go. Actually, trying to put that many hops in a bag would probably be pointless as it would allow so little surface area exposure.

 

[olotti]

Brewed this recipe Thursday with a few minor tweaks in the malt bill. I will be bottling and not kegging unfortunately.

I'm leaning towards doing all the dry hops at once in a single additions to avoid oxygenation. No bag, just free floating hops unless 6 plus ounces is too much to dry hop without a bag.

I add all my dry hops at once into primary, you can also do 3oz now and 3oz a few days later or all at once but like brau said, and I also cold crash in my garage fridge, doesn't have to be for long say 24 hrs and the hops usually drop right out. Chances of any oxidation from dropping hop pellets or whoe cone into your fermenter is next to nil, you have better odds at oxygen being added when bottling and I bottle to but are sure the beer swirls gently out of the racking cane and I take care not to really shake the carboy when moving it to my counter.

 

[olotti]

Regarding Conan and the peach note I just had a couple of my IPAs with it and the only time I really got that peach, and it was a no doubter smelled just like ripe peaches, was after I poured a beer and smelled the bottle it was very prevalent mainly because there was yeast sediment on the bottom of the bottle. I think with this no matter how you pitch it or the temp of fermentation if it's a hoppy beer it seems to cover up that peach flavor. My IPAs are usually around 70 Ibus with a 60 min charge and then all late additions and a usually 4oz 60 min hop stand.

 

[rsalan]

Any idea on getting that super turbid haze found in Tree House Green, Juice Machine etc.?

 

[Braufessor]

Any idea on getting that super turbid haze found in Tree House Green, Juice Machine etc.?

Have not had it...... Yeast in suspension??? 1318 or Denny's are yeasts that hang in suspension in my experience. Could be that in addition to some of the same things in this thread.

 

[hannibalmdq]

Any idea on getting that super turbid haze found in Tree House Green, Juice Machine etc.?

You want haze, toss some all purpose flour straight in the boll. Starch haze for days. I think there's a blog on The Mad Fermentationists site that covers it.

 

[rsalan]

You want haze, toss some all purpose flour straight in the boll. Starch haze for days. I think there's a blog on The Mad Fermentationists site that covers it.

Yeah I've been reading up on that technique. Sounds like cheating lol. I'm not sure that's their method at Tree House and Trillium though..

 

[g-star]

It is cheating and is certainly not done on a professional level.

With the flaked grains, heavy dry hop, and a yeast like WY1318 the beer will remain hazy for a long time...flour is unnecessary and probably would make the beer unappealingly turbid.

 

[Braufessor]

I have used flour in a beer once.... there could have been other variables at play as well..... but I did not like the beer at all. I agree with g-star - there are a lot of variables you can manipulate to get a hazy, cloudy beer.

 

[hannibalmdq]

It is cheating and is certainly not done on a professional level.

With the flaked grains, heavy dry hop, and a yeast like WY1318 the beer will remain hazy for a long time...flour is unnecessary and probably would make the beer unappealingly turbid.

Cheating? What does that even mean? There are exceeding few absolutes in brewing and near infinite possibilities.

Unless your going to declare that adding flour to the wort makes the final product something other than beer, I can't see how it's any different from any other adjunt you could pop in a brew. The poster asked about haze boosting options, that's certainly one of them.

Now, as the above poster pointed out, you might not like the results, but that's another matter. Seemed like OldSock was pretty happy with his results.

 

[surgical_ass]

Slightly off topic but has anyone had any attenuation issues with 1318? Did an ipa largely influenced from this thread that is 6 days old and is 4 pts away from projected fg but yeast has dropped completely from top after massive starter (2L 1.060 og) and all necessary steps. Fermentation was 68-70 degrees. My bill was 80% golden promise 10% flaked wheat and 10% vienna. Never used this yeast so this is new territory. Any concern? I know it's only 4 pts and it's been only 6 days but I've been in a similar situation before and the gravity never moved. Great thread thanks guys!

 

[KirkMN]

I've got this fermenting away and it is looking good. I was thinking of brewing another batch to put on the yeast once this is done. Maybe change up the hops a bit to a Citra/Nelson/Mosaic combo.

This also got me thinking of making an 8% Double IPA similar to TG's King Sue. What do you think I'd need to change besides the malt bill? Ever make something similar in all your batches?

 

[Braufessor]

I've got this fermenting away and it is looking good. I was thinking of brewing another batch to put on the yeast once this is done. Maybe change up the hops a bit to a Citra/Nelson/Mosaic combo.

This also got me thinking of making an 8% Double IPA similar to TG's King Sue. What do you think I'd need to change besides the malt bill? Ever make something similar in all your batches?

I have not...... Really not a huge fan of 7-8%+ beers to be honest. I like them from time to time, but don't want 5 gallons of it on hand usually. I guess I would simply scale it up as it is to start with - adjusting grain bill to come in at 1.075 or so. I would add more bittering hops to balance out the increased malt. King is all Citra other than the bittering hop. They don't use conan... Something more along the lines of 007 probably. However, if I was brewing something like it, I would still use conan anyway.

Did you happen to come down and get any King Sue today at the release? Place was a ****-show when I stopped in around 1:00 or so...... Went and hung out at Pulpit Rock for a while and went back up around 3:00 to pick some up - no line at that point.

 

[KirkMN]

I have not...... Really not a huge fan of 7-8%+ beers to be honest. I like them from time to time, but don't want 5 gallons of it on hand usually. I guess I would simply scale it up as it is to start with - adjusting grain bill to come in at 1.075 or so. I would add more bittering hops to balance out the increased malt. King is all Citra other than the bittering hop. They don't use conan... Something more along the lines of 007 probably. However, if I was brewing something like it, I would still use conan anyway.

Did you happen to come down and get any King Sue today at the release? Place was a ****-show when I stopped in around 1:00 or so...... Went and hung out at Pulpit Rock for a while and went back up around 3:00 to pick some up - no line at that point.

I might give it shot and let you know. I rarely drink big beers like that, but I really enjoyed King Sue and would like to try something like it.

I didn't know about the release til late today. Have any idea how much they have or when it will be sold out? The Mosaic dry hopped King Sue was really good, and if I could make something similar that would be great.

When I get done with this recipe I'll send you a few bottles or we can get together to try. Cheers

 

[Zwienka]

Nice recipe. I've been playing around with a NE IPA. Hey I have a question. My malt bill I've used for the last two batches has been 7.5 lbs Pale, 5 lbs White Wheat, 2 lbs flaked oats, and 8 oz dextrine. I mashed at 155 for an hour and hit OG of 1.055. The next batch I used a protein rest at 122 for 20 minutes and then finished at 155 for 40 minutes. The OG went up to 1.062. Anything else I could do to get better efficiency while using 50% of the grist bill being wheat and oats? Thanks.

 

[brewski09]

Nice recipe. I've been playing around with a NE IPA. Hey I have a question. My malt bill I've used for the last two batches has been 7.5 lbs Pale, 5 lbs White Wheat, 2 lbs flaked oats, and 8 oz dextrine. I mashed at 155 for an hour and hit OG of 1.055. The next batch I used a protein rest at 122 for 20 minutes and then finished at 155 for 40 minutes. The OG went up to 1.062. Anything else I could do to get better efficiency while using 50% of the grist bill being wheat and oats? Thanks.

Rice hulls?

 

[kingwood-kid]

Nice recipe. I've been playing around with a NE IPA. Hey I have a question. My malt bill I've used for the last two batches has been 7.5 lbs Pale, 5 lbs White Wheat, 2 lbs flaked oats, and 8 oz dextrine. I mashed at 155 for an hour and hit OG of 1.055. The next batch I used a protein rest at 122 for 20 minutes and then finished at 155 for 40 minutes. The OG went up to 1.062. Anything else I could do to get better efficiency while using 50% of the grist bill being wheat and oats? Thanks.

Malted wheat (and rye) is much smaller than barley, so you need to mill it much finer. Don't worry about shredding the husk, as it doesn't have one. Instead of adding flour, you can just mill the wheat until it's pretty close to flour if you want haziness. A lot of homebrew shops won't adjust their mills for you, but you can ask them nicely to mill the wheat twice. As mentioned, rice hulls are helpful when you have a lot of huskless grains. If you're getting low efficiency, you can sparge more to help rinse those last sugars out of the grain, as long as you don't mind the extra boiling time.

 

[Braufessor]

Nice recipe. I've been playing around with a NE IPA. Hey I have a question. My malt bill I've used for the last two batches has been 7.5 lbs Pale, 5 lbs White Wheat, 2 lbs flaked oats, and 8 oz dextrine. I mashed at 155 for an hour and hit OG of 1.055. The next batch I used a protein rest at 122 for 20 minutes and then finished at 155 for 40 minutes. The OG went up to 1.062. Anything else I could do to get better efficiency while using 50% of the grist bill being wheat and oats? Thanks.

The #1 way to increase efficiency is to mill your grain finer.

#2 and #3 in my book are pH and a longer (75-90 minute)/thinner mash.

** Also, consider your temperature accuracy...... are you positive your temp. probe is correct? If it is off, you could potentially be mashing at a point that is damaging your efficiency.

Technically, in brewing a NE IPA, you don't want to do a protein rest... that is part of what makes it such a hazy beer. Beyond that, almost no grain you use regularly in brewing needs a protein rest.

All that being said, I think mash efficiency is a non issue in home brewing. We, as home brewers are basically talking about $1-$2 worth of grain. The #1 concern is getting the result you want as far as flavor and quality beer. Don't sacrifice that in an attempt to get a few efficiency points -adding a pound of grain is the easiest thing to do. If you gain some efficiency through a protein rest, but lose body and haziness while trying to brew a NE IPA.... it was not worth it.

 

[madscientistbrewNq]

Yeah I used 1318 on a 9 % porter... it came in about 4 to 5 point greater than I wanted so ended around 8.4 %....

I fermented at 64 but started to bump at 72 hrs.... I'm guessing like the conan I probably should have started around 48 hrs.


UOTE=surgical_ass;7416236]Slightly off topic but has anyone had any attenuation issues with 1318? Did an ipa largely influenced from this thread that is 6 days old and is 4 pts away from projected fg but yeast has dropped completely from top after massive starter (2L 1.060 og) and all necessary steps. Fermentation was 68-70 degrees. My bill was 80% golden promise 10% flaked wheat and 10% vienna. Never used this yeast so this is new territory. Any concern? I know it's only 4 pts and it's been only 6 days but I've been in a similar situation before and the gravity never moved. Great thread thanks guys![/QUOTE]

 

[Zwienka]

Sorry I forgot to add that I did use rice hulls.