DevilsCups
Well-Known Member
Awesome work and data! The preferred FG data is actually surprising to me.
New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA
- Thread starter Braufessor
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Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
I love the data. Nice work man! I hope I don’t come across as knit picky but one piece of data I think may be a bit more important than the whirlpool or dry hop amount would be their rates. I suggest this, (I’m sure you already know) because rates provide standardized data as they provide proportional relationships or the correlation between 2 or more variables.
For those who may not know what I mean; we all have a different volume that we are adding hops to due to batch size or targeted FV volume. By only sharing the amount of oz of hops we use and not comparing it to the volume those oz of hops are going into, it will not standardize our Data as some of us dryhop in kegs which is only 5 gallons while other will dryhop into 6 or more gallons of beer (same idea would go to the whirlpool). By providing the rate, we will be able to compare ours to the majority of any other group we want to focus on.
Only a suggestion. Very nice work @anteater8 and thanks for doing it!
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Not nit picky at all, totally fair point. To be honest, I put the (5 gal batch) at the end of those questions to try to standardize the rate into a typical batch size, but I never really thought about the difference between dry hopping 5 gal of kegged beer vs. 6 gal of primary beer. I figured most people are whirlpooling at 6 ish gallons and dry hopping 5.5 ish gallons for a 5 gallon batch.
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
My whirlpool volume is about 7 gallons actually as I leave as much hot break and hops in the kettle as possible targeting 6-6.25 gallons into the fv to account for the dryhop a loss and to transfer a full 5 gallons of debri free beer into the serving keg. I’m not suggesting you do anything with this info but I do think if we sent out another quick survey that asked folks for their to calculated dryhoping and whirlpool rate, we would get a bit better data that we can compare
TwitchellBrew
Active Member
This is great! Thanks for taking the time to do it! I also found the fg data surprising. I like mine around 1.014 for drinkability but assumed most were targeting a higher fg. This data to me shows how influential this thread has been on all of our brewing. If you look at the OP, compared to this data, it tells a very different story and shows how the info presented here has helped us all make better beers. I’ll bet if you posted this survey elsewhere we would see a much larger variance in responses. Cheers to all who contribute to this thread!
DevilsCups
Well-Known Member
Got this batch kegged. I definitely think that dry-hopping in a second keg after primary in my first keg is going to be a must. I hit this with 5oz Nelson + 5oz Riwaka, and its just not even close to hitting the mark. Body and everything else is good it seems. Hop character just seriously lacking.
1.069 -> 1.019
80/20 Pale to Floats
Juice
All I get is this vague weird cantalope type flavor. Dry-hopped solely after terminal at 48ºF for 2 days. Love the body, though. Super creamy.
1.069 -> 1.019
80/20 Pale to Floats
Juice
All I get is this vague weird cantalope type flavor. Dry-hopped solely after terminal at 48ºF for 2 days. Love the body, though. Super creamy.
![Craft A Brew - Safale BE-256 Yeast - Fermentis - Belgian Ale Dry Yeast - For Belgian & Strong Ales - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [3 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51bcKEwQmWL._SL500_.jpg)
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
Looks nice though! Great combo. Give it a little time and then reevaluate. To me it takes about 1-2 weeks for beer to come into its own. Early on I’m always indifferent with the beer and feel like the flavor and aroma constantly shift, sometimes being happy and sometimes thinking it comes across muted. I think you’ll be surprised how much the 1-2 weeks helps
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Agreed, takes them about 2 weeks to settle. Some peak after 3-4.
DevilsCups
Well-Known Member
Thanks, I'll give it some time to settle in and see how it progresses. Probably going to brew up that Row 2 Hill 56 clone that Jukas posted tomorrow, as its likely a good use for the spare Simcoe I have. Next NE I brew I think I'll try to rack into a second dry-hopping vessel and see how that goes.
beervoid
Hophead & Pellet Rubber
I love this ride of the first 2 weeks where it constantly shifts, sometimes it really hits a point that's just amazing
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
It’s def interesting seeing it change
aaronm13
Well-Known Member
I love that rollercoaster of the first few weeks after kegging a beer. Goes from great to terrible in the space of a few days then back to pretty good. Or terrible to drinkable over a few weeks. Its an interesting experiment to try a small amount every 2-3 days at the start.
DevilsCups
Well-Known Member
If I'm being totally honest, I likely kick my kegs before they hit their stride.
aaronm13
Well-Known Member
I try to go easy for the first 2 weeks at least, for me my sweet spot is 4-6 weeks. I think you've pretty much ruled out everything at this stage except dry hopping in a second vessel so probably should be something you look into next. Doesn't have to be expensive either. Dgallos fermonster hack or the Fermzilla all rounder are cheap options. Since you have the 2" hop dropper the Fermzilla would work with the extra tri clamp lid.
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
haha you need to fix that. That’s were commercial beer gets consumed. If you need a great inexpensive beer to fill the fridge, zero gravities - green state Pilsner
DevilsCups
Well-Known Member
Mannnn, I adore Zero Gravity for putting out consistently solid fridge fillers at a good price. I also lean in Fiddlehead 12-packs. I love their resinous stink they get in their beers, and the price is solid too. I do need to fix it haha. I’m so used to drinking from a brite and having it taste solid off the bat at the brewery.
I think I’m going to go with another modded Torpedo keg that’s identical to the one I have now. My reasoning is for when I’m not brewing hoppy beers I’ll have two pressure capable fermenters that are ready to go.
aaronm13
Well-Known Member
@Dgallo just transferred and dry hopped my latest beer this morning, it's your Citra/Nelson and Rakau. Got all the hops from Hop Alliance and going off aroma I'm really impressed. The Nelson actually smells like Nelson, haven't got that distinctive aroma off YVHs Nelson in years. Got 2023 Citra cryo off them too and smells amazing. The plan was to to half cryo and half 24 Citra Lupomax that I got the other day and the Lupomax smelled of nothing. So disappointed so went all 23 cryo. Think Hop Alliance could be my go to retailer going off these few hops. Hopefully I'll have kegged before next weekend so I can try it. Pretty excited. If it's good I'll be entering it into the Irish nationals next month
My experiment is usually to see if I can go at least 2 weeks without touching the keg. The last pour of my IPA is pretty much always the best one, and I always wish I was more patient to give it time and not check every day lol.
Northern_Brewer
British - apparently some US company stole my name
Going back to #6923, a YouTube where John Kimmich says:
"I tried it every day for 10 weeks, and I felt that Heady Topper is at it's best at 10 weeks" [they release at 28 days]
Also Kimmich :
When you put it in a can, I swear that day I take it home it’s good, it’s really good. But the next day, the day after that, days five, seven, 14 days go by it has a chance to evolve and come into its own in the can. With it being unfiltered and unpasteurized, that’s essentially your 16-ounce little keg-conditioned beautiful beer that will evolve and change. Over time there’s all sorts of things that happen in that can. With that said, it’s also very volatile in the same sense. If you let it warm up, well, not all yeasts are the same, but I find that our yeast is very sensitive to temperature change. It doesn’t like to warm up and get cold again, and that changes the character of the beer. I can tell if a can of Heady has ever been warmed up and re-chilled.
"I tried it every day for 10 weeks, and I felt that Heady Topper is at it's best at 10 weeks" [they release at 28 days]
Also Kimmich :
When you put it in a can, I swear that day I take it home it’s good, it’s really good. But the next day, the day after that, days five, seven, 14 days go by it has a chance to evolve and come into its own in the can. With it being unfiltered and unpasteurized, that’s essentially your 16-ounce little keg-conditioned beautiful beer that will evolve and change. Over time there’s all sorts of things that happen in that can. With that said, it’s also very volatile in the same sense. If you let it warm up, well, not all yeasts are the same, but I find that our yeast is very sensitive to temperature change. It doesn’t like to warm up and get cold again, and that changes the character of the beer. I can tell if a can of Heady has ever been warmed up and re-chilled.
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Day 26 on this one and it’s gotten better each week so far.
Citra, Mosaic, Eclipse, and Citra hop hash.
45% brewers malt
35% pilsner
20% white wheat malt
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Interesting results!
I'm trying to better understand the benefits of using a seperate vessel for dry hopping. Is it to get rid of as much yeast or sediment as possible? Or are there other reasons as well?
The reason I'm wondering is that I usually dump my yeast after fermentation and I think it has the same effect. Might be wrong.
DevilsCups
Well-Known Member
From what I see, through homebrewing terms and when I spent time brewing commercially, it's really twofold. The ability to get the beer off the yeast (or in the scenario of a conical, getting the yeast off the beer), and the ability to agitate the dry-hops for more extraction without also agitating yeast and trub.
jordanfrenzy
Well-Known Member
For those that are closed transferring to a keg - do you remove the poppet from the beverage out post? I've been trying to make the best of my old Anvil SS fermenters but since they are steel it is very hard to guess where the racking arm is, and get it into a position where you're not transferring trub and clogging the poppet. My last batch I poured some off first and got a clear, mostly hop free stream but still immediately seemed to clog the poppet when I connected a QD and put it on a keg.
The next thing I'm going to try is to rig a floating dip tube to my Anvil racking arm. If that doesn't work I'm getting rid of them and getting a Fermonster.
The next thing I'm going to try is to rig a floating dip tube to my Anvil racking arm. If that doesn't work I'm getting rid of them and getting a Fermonster.
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I let the beer settle out first / cold crash a few days, and don't have any issues. For the times I've had hops floating around though, yeah, it's a nightmare, and it's exactly what you have to do (remove the poppets). Be sure to remove them from both lines / both ends (or, the one won't be there to push open the other). Afterwards run a little CO2 into the keg at a fraction of a psi and then get the spring and poppet back in quickly.
Yeah, the hazy ipa kegging debacle, it's tough til you find something that works for you.. in any case I'll reccomend a bouncer filter, this helped me a lot. Fairly cheap for the benefit. I can't use a floating diptube in my conical due to the chilling coil but if I could I would. To answer your question though I do not remove the poppet. I don't know how long you cold crash and what temp but I try to crash to 38f for at least 3 days, this has also helped me a lot, if I'm rushing or try to push it to quickly it doesn't go as smoothly.
jordanfrenzy
Well-Known Member
Thanks, that was my next question. Putting the poppet back in place seems like it would be an oxygen inducing deal but obviously better than siphon transfer. I've always avoided in line filters because I thought they would clog with these beers. Sounds like good clear wort into the kettle, cold crash, floating dip tube, and filter is probably the best answer.
DevilsCups
Well-Known Member
I've racked many beers through a FLOTIt and I've never had an issue. It's honestly a great product. I'd try to see if I could rig something similar to the racking arm. You wouldn't really need the racking arm to function if you do so as well, so positioning doesn't matter much.
DevilsCups
Well-Known Member
Some of that Riwaka is starting to poke its head out with that distinctive profile. I think that Nelson from YVH was kinda trashy though. Reading back, it seems like people have not had luck with that 2023 Nelson from YVH in here.
What's the consensus on Pomona yeast? Planning a beer soon and have that and cellar science hazy on hand. Enjoyed the c.s yeast but it was on a 4.5% hazy pale and want this one around the 7% range.
Also picking up on the above - Superdelic is very good. Comes through nicely alongside some big hitters and I've yet to get the diesel note from it. Just kegged up a citra, krush, Superdelic west coast pilsner which is a pretty promising combo.
Finally I would suggest a fermzilla conical as a good fermenter for hoppy beers (no affiliation except they are my local homebrew store). When I brew I am able to drop the yeast out the bottom (and save it if I want) meaning dry hopping yeast free beer. I can then do 02 free dry hopping and pressure transfer to my purged keg. I have a little filter inside the fermenter which stops any really large particles from blocking my kegs too. Having tried a lot of other methods this gear is as stress free as you can get with the ability to see inside the fermenter too. My 2c.
Also picking up on the above - Superdelic is very good. Comes through nicely alongside some big hitters and I've yet to get the diesel note from it. Just kegged up a citra, krush, Superdelic west coast pilsner which is a pretty promising combo.
Finally I would suggest a fermzilla conical as a good fermenter for hoppy beers (no affiliation except they are my local homebrew store). When I brew I am able to drop the yeast out the bottom (and save it if I want) meaning dry hopping yeast free beer. I can then do 02 free dry hopping and pressure transfer to my purged keg. I have a little filter inside the fermenter which stops any really large particles from blocking my kegs too. Having tried a lot of other methods this gear is as stress free as you can get with the ability to see inside the fermenter too. My 2c.
