New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[DevilsCups]

Here it is in case you can't find it.

Now THIS is a complete clubbing over the head with hops. I love it lol.

 

[Dgallo]

Now THIS is a complete clubbing over the head with hops. I love it lol.

Haha I would actually consider this middle of the road. It’s about 4lb/bbl dryhop. I see many folks going 5-7lb/bbl constantly on here. I’m right around where @aaronm13 is, sometimes a touch more, sometimes a touch less

 

[DevilsCups]

Haha I would actually consider this middle of the road. It’s about 4lb/bbl dryhop. I see many folks going 5-7lb/bbl constantly on here. I’m right around where @aaronm13 is, sometimes a touch more, sometimes a touch less

It has made me realize that even though I'm mostly brewing lower gravity, considering the modern approach, I am severely underhopping.

 

[wepeeler]

Now THIS is a complete clubbing over the head with hops. I love it lol.

Haha I would actually consider this middle of the road. It’s about 4lb/bbl dryhop. I see many folks going 5-7lb/bbl constantly on here. I’m right around where @aaronm13 is, sometimes a touch more, sometimes a touch less

I think I'm severely underhopping my neipas too, but I feel like they're saturated. Might have to test out a batch with extra.

Currently I'm 2.5oz 3-5min, 2.5oz Whirlpool, 6-7oz DH. Sometimes 8oz DH, but closed transferring becomes tricky at that point.

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

In regards to the closed transfer, when I upped my hopping rate I found that I had to do a better job of cols crashing.. I have a conical so I can dump trub but with 2.5oz per gallon of dry hops things get tough. I found that I really gotta work the cold crash timing with trub dumps. I do multiple dumps over 2 to 3 days. Starting after 12 hours at 38f then every 12 hours after that. I do short and slow so as to not punch through but also not get plugged up. It's a bit of a challenge. I tried numerous things but this has worked the best to avoid clogs when doing the closed transfer. I have used a bouncer filter for quite some time which is a huge help but again had problems when I upped the hopping rates. So I stepped up my filter game as well, here's a pic of my latest transfer and its result.

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

Edit to post above, I was also under hopping.

 

[wepeeler]

In regards to the closed transfer, when I upped my hopping rate I found that I had to do a better job of cols crashing.. I have a conical so I can dump trub but with 2.5oz per gallon of dry hops things get tough. I found that I really gotta work the cold crash timing with trub dumps. I do multiple dumps over 2 to 3 days. Starting after 12 hours at 38f then every 12 hours after that. I do short and slow so as to not punch through but also not get plugged up. It's a bit of a challenge. I tried numerous things but this has worked the best to avoid clogs when doing the closed transfer. I have used a bouncer filter for quite some time which is a huge help but again had problems when I upped the hopping rates. So I stepped up my filter game as well, here's a pic of my latest transfer and its result.
View attachment 849189View attachment 849190

That's basically what I'm doing as well. Multiple slow trub dumps from both ports and then using a Bouncer Pro. I clogged the Bouncer when I did my first 8oz DH, and it turned me off. But, my process has gotten better as I learned my system. I wasn't dumping enough or as often.

Here's to more hops!

 

[aaronm13]

Haha I would actually consider this middle of the road. It’s about 4lb/bbl dryhop. I see many folks going 5-7lb/bbl constantly on here. I’m right around where @aaronm13 is, sometimes a touch more, sometimes a touch less

Funny enough on the feed back from the judges was that the beer could do with more aroma and was a touch grassy. SO in theory needs more hops for aroma but would add more vegetive matter. What would be the solution here here, more dry hops but shorter contact time? I don't get much grassiness at all off it but don't think I'm overly sensitive to it.

 

[LumberZach]

Funny enough on the feed back from the judges was that the beer could do with more aroma and was a touch grassy. SO in theory needs more hops for aroma but would add more vegetive matter. What would be the solution here here, more dry hops but shorter contact time? I don't get much grassiness at all off it but don't think I'm overly sensitive to it.

Cryo hops?

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

I was gonna say the same thing.

 

[Dgallo]

Funny enough on the feed back from the judges was that the beer could do with more aroma and was a touch grassy. SO in theory needs more hops for aroma but would add more vegetive matter. What would be the solution here here, more dry hops but shorter contact time? I don't get much grassiness at all off it but don't think I'm overly sensitive to it.

Going a little warmer, for shorter periods, and less rousing could help. But sometimes it’s just the quality of the hops

 

[elproducto]

Has anyone tried this Revolution Hop Blend?

Blend of Nelson, Riwaka, Moteka and Pacific Sunrise.

Was thinking of picking up a pound to try, might be really nice in a NZ Pils or Mixed Ferm Saison even?

 

[aaronm13]

Going a little warmer, for shorter periods, and less rousing could help. But sometimes it’s just the quality of the hops

Think I dry hopped around 58/60C with this one so a little warmer than I normally do with southern hemisphere hops, think it helped. But as you say it's more than likely the quality of the hops.

 

[x22n]

Going a little warmer, for shorter periods, and less rousing could help. But sometimes it’s just the quality of the hops

Why warmer? I am curious I thought that colder meant less grassy

Side note: I was reading Sapwood Cellar (Scott Janish) recipe for their beer Cosmic Rings and they mention dry hopping at 34F/1C which is way lower than what I am dry hopping at

 

[day_trippr]

Interesting, as that's quite a bit colder than the 50°F Janish recommended in his last "The New IPA" book...

Cheers!

 

[Dgallo]

Why warmer? I am curious I thought that colder meant less grassy

Side note: I was reading Sapwood Cellar (Scott Janish) recipe for their beer Cosmic Rings and they mention dry hopping at 34F/1C which is way lower than what I am dry hopping at

Dryhoping cold helps prevent yeast activity and hopburn for sure, but I strongly feel temperature will not change the flavor extracted as long as you’re not extending the time. (Talking 60*f and below. The warmer the temp, the less time you want on the hops)

Think about it, ever taste your before dryhoping? Does is taste fruity or grassy? I bet typically fruity and remember you added hops during the whirlpool so if temperature caused grassyness you should only get grassy flavors at that point. Hop character comes from the hop itself, grassy character typically means it was harvested earlier. If it’s very fruity or taste as the variety should it was yielded at the right time, if it’s oniony/garlicky than it was harvested late. Grow season and genetics will definitely play a part in it too.

If your hops are grassy, dryhoping warmer could be beneficial. It will let the yeast do some biotransfermation and hopefully take it more fruity.

 

[user 299976]

Extending my Florida winter stay longer than usual due to health reasons. Will be taking a break from brewing, so wanted to post my last batch photo. Used a More Beer Phantasm Hazy IPA kit (normally not kits). Turned out excellent, very happy for single IPA. Keep posting you NEIPA nuts. This link is one of the best. Thanks to all!

 

[Ulisses4677]

Extending my Florida winter stay longer than usual due to health reasons. Will be taking a break from brewing, so wanted to post my last batch photo. Used a More Beer Phantasm Hazy IPA kit (normally not kits). Turned out excellent, very happy for single IPA. Keep posting you NEIPA nuts. This link is one of the best. Thanks to all!

wish you well brother. Stay strong

 

[x22n]

What is the general opinion on using 100% cryo hops in a recipe? Will it taste "cryo"? Any downside? I would really like to reduce my beer loss.

I saw a recipe (Oak Flower Hazy IPA) using 100% citra cryo win the NHC 2023 silver in hazies

 

[Dgallo]

What is the general opinion on using 100% cryo hops in a recipe? Will it taste "cryo"? Any downside? I would really like to reduce my beer loss.

I saw a recipe (Oak Flower Hazy IPA) using 100% citra cryo win the NHC 2023 silver in hazies

Cryo only beers tend to lack some body, are less hazy, tend to taste one dimensional. Will still taste fine but there’s a reason why the best of the best still use plenty of t90 in their beers.

At our scale loss is far less impactful. To increase your volume by a gallon with be only 2 - 2.5 lbs of grain in cost. Or is your loss concern more about equipment volume restrictions

 

[x22n]

Cryo only beers tend to lack some body, are less hazy, tend to taste one dimensional. Will still taste fine but there’s a reason why the best of the best still use plenty of t90 in their beers.

At our scale loss is far less impactful. To increase your volume by a gallon with be only 2 - 2.5 lbs of grain in cost. Or is your loss concern more about equipment volume restrictions

Yes it is a volume restriction for DIPA and TIPA with 6+ lb/bbl

 

[ihavenonickname]

Right - for a 1.080 beer with 12-16oz of dry hop you really need about 6.5 gal of wort into the fermenter if you want a full 5 gal into the keg. (That’s 7.5 post boil for me) this might sound rediculous to some or obvious to others.

So I think the answer is just more volume to account for loss, not necessarily cryo. Like others I really like cryo/lupo/advanced hop product in the 20-50% range it seems like it helps the hops pop and come across as more concentrated but you can’t get rid of all the natural hop material out of the beer, it does something to the beer that is intangible(maybe?) and necessary for a full hop expression.

 

[BongoYodeler]

Right - for a 1.080 beer with 12-16oz of dry hop you really need about 6.5 gal of wort into the fermenter if you want a full 5 gal into the keg. (That’s 7.5 post boil for me) this might sound rediculous to some or obvious to others.

So I think the answer is just more volume to account for loss, not necessarily cryo. Like others I really like cryo/lupo/advanced hop product in the 20-50% range it seems like it helps the hops pop and come across as more concentrated but you can’t get rid of all the natural hop material out of the beer, it does something to the beer that is intangible(maybe?) and necessary for a full hop expression.

Interesting. I recently bought some Citra and Ekuanot hop hash that was on sale at YVH. I was thinking of brewing a hazy later this summer using Citra hash/Nectaron T90 hop combo. Sounds like mixing in some Citra T90 in addition to the Citra hop hash is the way to go.

 

[wepeeler]

Right - for a 1.080 beer with 12-16oz of dry hop you really need about 6.5 gal of wort into the fermenter if you want a full 5 gal into the keg. (That’s 7.5 post boil for me) this might sound rediculous to some or obvious to others.

So I think the answer is just more volume to account for loss, not necessarily cryo. Like others I really like cryo/lupo/advanced hop product in the 20-50% range it seems like it helps the hops pop and come across as more concentrated but you can’t get rid of all the natural hop material out of the beer, it does something to the beer that is intangible(maybe?) and necessary for a full hop expression.

12-16oz DH?? Holy shiiiii....I shoot for 7 gal of wort into my fermenter, and if I do 8oz+ DH I have issues getting a full 5 gal into the keg!

 

[ihavenonickname]

12-16oz DH?? Holy shiiiii....I shoot for 7 gal of wort into my fermenter, and if I do 8oz+ DH I have issues getting a full 5 gal into the keg!

Welp just do the math… 6 lbs per barrel is about 3 oz per gal. 6.5 gal in fermenter actually that’s 19 oz ! You’re gonna loose a gallon (or a little more) to the dry hop and half a gallon to yeast. That’s 5 gallons into a keg. If you wanna say 4lbs/bbl that’s gonna be a 13 oz DH and the volumes are similar, a little less loss of course.

 

[Dgallo]

I personally get 6 into the fermenter, rack to a dryhoping vessel with 13-15 oz of hops and yield exactly a full keg so 5.15 gallons. Equipment def will have different levels of loss. With my setup and the floating diptube, I got my loss down to 13-15%

 

[T.O.M.B. Brewing]

Ive made 100% Cryo NEIPA's many times without any impact on head retention, body, haze or haze stability. My NEIPA's have been awarded multiple Gold, Silver and Bronze medals as well as a couple Mini BOS's, so there is plenty of eveidence that Cryo works, at least for me. I wouldn't hesitate to suggest use of Cryo for a NEIPA where such a large hop load can lead to intense hopburn and organic slickness.

If you want, try 100% Cryo in the dryhop and regular T90 in the kettle.

My $.02

 

[T.O.M.B. Brewing]

Double post edit

 

[T.O.M.B. Brewing]

What is the general opinion on using 100% cryo hops in a recipe? Will it taste "cryo"? Any downside? I would really like to reduce my beer loss.

I saw a recipe (Oak Flower Hazy IPA) using 100% citra cryo win the NHC 2023 silver in hazies

Ive made 100% Cryo NEIPA's many times without any impact on head retention, body, haze or haze stability. My NEIPA's have been awarded multiple Gold, Silver and Bronze medals as well as a couple Mini BOS's, so there is plenty of eveidence that Cryo works, at least for me. I wouldn't hesitate to suggest use of Cryo for a NEIPA where such a large hop load can lead to intense hopburn and organic slickness.

If you want, try 100% Cryo in the dryhop and regular T90 in the kettle.

My $.02

 

[Dgallo]

Ive made 100% Cryo NEIPA's many times without any impact on head retention, body, haze

These are all relative by brewer, however cryo has half the polyphenol content and polyphenols can add to haze and body. So less in, less out