New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[smalloy88]

Did my starter over the weekend so hoping to brew this Friday. I've changed my idea again on the hop bill. Still going with Citra and Superdelic but going to throw in a bit of Nectaron now. Going with 7oz of Citra, 4oz of Superdelic and oz of Nectaron. So a 50/50 split between Citra and the NZ hops. How does this sound to people? I haven't opened the Superdelic yet to see how it smells but will beforehand just to be certain.

Aiming for an OG of 1.081 and finish around 1.018. First time using A24 so not 100% sure how it will perform so just going with a single infusion at 152F/67C.

Sounds like it’ll make a great beer. If you’re specifically looking for superdelic characteristics, they may be outshined by the citra, but it may work better as a supporting hop keep us posted!

 

[aaronm13]

Sounds like it’ll make a great beer. If you’re specifically looking for superdelic characteristics, they may be outshined by the citra, but it may work better as a supporting hop keep us posted!

That's my worry but for the first time using it could be the safer option. Those NZ hops can really take over. Going to do a small dry hop mid fermentation and rest of the dry hop after a soft crash as Superdelic seems to bring out different flavours depending when you use it.

 

[Langerz]

I kegged my latest NEIPA and looking for some advice. Did a closed transfer from the fermenter and the first bit in the transfer line looked like a big glob of krausen, trub, hops idk but not the nice light colored liquid that transferred after that. I have a FDT in the fermenter I draw out of and then FDT in the keg that I fill into. It's hard to tell what the "glob" was but guessing krausen worked it's way through the screen on the FDT during fermentation. My hope was it would settle out into the bottom of the keg and I would be fine from there.

After fast carbing the beer and putting it into my keezer the beer is pouring really slow so I'm guessing I still have some of whatever it is in the FDT line. So do I....

• Try pushing some CO2 back through the FDT. I'm a little afraid if there is a plug this could just push the filter and float off the end of the line and then I'm in trouble.
• Open up the keg and try fix it and expose things to oxygen? I could try to CO2 purge after I do that but I know how things go when you have a keg open trying to fix things - I always end up with the lid open longer than I like. I also have a full corny keg and if I end up concluding I have to replace the FDT line I'm not sure how I'm going to do that with out putting my hand in the beer which seems like a bad plan.
• Just live with slow pours for one keg of beer - it's really slow but not so bad I couldn't live with it (and maybe things work themselves out and I get a glob in one glass I have to dump and then things are fine)
• Purge another keg and try another close transfer. But if the "glob" is in the line I probably just end up moving it to the second keg. Although it's weird that it isn't coming out when I pour.
• Other idea someone has here

I also suppose it's possible I have another issue going on and it isn't anything stuck in the line, but I've been using this keezer set up a while and the other three kegs are pouring fine. I will check the line and probably pull apart the faucet just to be safe, but I did clean all of that when the last keg kicked.

If it wasn't a hazy IPA and for the fact that the precarbed taste I took was outstanding (Citra, Strata, I7 is one of my favorite hop combos) I probably wouldn't worry about it, but I really don't want to oxidize this one.

 

[stickyfinger]

That's Cellar Science Hazy! Terrible yeast!

I wonder if it's S23. That was mareketed as a good yeast for biotransformation and is also known as a terrible yeast lol

 

[ihavenonickname]

I wonder if it's S23. That was mareketed as a good yeast for biotransformation and is also known as a terrible yeast lol

That would really surprise me, I’ve made great beer using CS Hazy - I heard it’s a BSG ( edit: nope, AEG) dry LA3 and from my experience it tastes and looks like most LA3 beers I’ve had… except the last beer I made that sucks for other reasons!

 

[wepeeler]

I kegged my latest NEIPA and looking for some advice. Did a closed transfer from the fermenter and the first bit in the transfer line looked like a big glob of krausen, trub, hops idk but not the nice light colored liquid that transferred after that. I have a FDT in the fermenter I draw out of and then FDT in the keg that I fill into. It's hard to tell what the "glob" was but guessing krausen worked it's way through the screen on the FDT during fermentation. My hope was it would settle out into the bottom of the keg and I would be fine from there.

After fast carbing the beer and putting it into my keezer the beer is pouring really slow so I'm guessing I still have some of whatever it is in the FDT line. So do I....

• Try pushing some CO2 back through the FDT. I'm a little afraid if there is a plug this could just push the filter and float off the end of the line and then I'm in trouble.
• Open up the keg and try fix it and expose things to oxygen? I could try to CO2 purge after I do that but I know how things go when you have a keg open trying to fix things - I always end up with the lid open longer than I like. I also have a full corny keg and if I end up concluding I have to replace the FDT line I'm not sure how I'm going to do that with out putting my hand in the beer which seems like a bad plan.
• Just live with slow pours for one keg of beer - it's really slow but not so bad I couldn't live with it (and maybe things work themselves out and I get a glob in one glass I have to dump and then things are fine)
• Purge another keg and try another close transfer. But if the "glob" is in the line I probably just end up moving it to the second keg. Although it's weird that it isn't coming out when I pour.
• Other idea someone has here

I also suppose it's possible I have another issue going on and it isn't anything stuck in the line, but I've been using this keezer set up a while and the other three kegs are pouring fine. I will check the line and probably pull apart the faucet just to be safe, but I did clean all of that when the last keg kicked.

If it wasn't a hazy IPA and for the fact that the precarbed taste I took was outstanding (Citra, Strata, I7 is one of my favorite hop combos) I probably wouldn't worry about it, but I really don't want to oxidize this one.

Not this will help you, but I use a Bouncer filter to filter out hops and trub when closed transferring. I run a bit of beer through the filter and tube running to keg WITHOUT it being hooked up to keg. As the beer is flowing out of the tube that will be hooked up to keg I hook the liquid QD up to the line and then onto pop onto the keg. That way I clean out trub from the first pour from the fermenter and clear the line out of oxygen as an added bonus.

 

[smalloy88]

I kegged my latest NEIPA and looking for some advice. Did a closed transfer from the fermenter and the first bit in the transfer line looked like a big glob of krausen, trub, hops idk but not the nice light colored liquid that transferred after that. I have a FDT in the fermenter I draw out of and then FDT in the keg that I fill into. It's hard to tell what the "glob" was but guessing krausen worked it's way through the screen on the FDT during fermentation. My hope was it would settle out into the bottom of the keg and I would be fine from there.

After fast carbing the beer and putting it into my keezer the beer is pouring really slow so I'm guessing I still have some of whatever it is in the FDT line. So do I....

• Try pushing some CO2 back through the FDT. I'm a little afraid if there is a plug this could just push the filter and float off the end of the line and then I'm in trouble.
• Open up the keg and try fix it and expose things to oxygen? I could try to CO2 purge after I do that but I know how things go when you have a keg open trying to fix things - I always end up with the lid open longer than I like. I also have a full corny keg and if I end up concluding I have to replace the FDT line I'm not sure how I'm going to do that with out putting my hand in the beer which seems like a bad plan.
• Just live with slow pours for one keg of beer - it's really slow but not so bad I couldn't live with it (and maybe things work themselves out and I get a glob in one glass I have to dump and then things are fine)
• Purge another keg and try another close transfer. But if the "glob" is in the line I probably just end up moving it to the second keg. Although it's weird that it isn't coming out when I pour.
• Other idea someone has here

I also suppose it's possible I have another issue going on and it isn't anything stuck in the line, but I've been using this keezer set up a while and the other three kegs are pouring fine. I will check the line and probably pull apart the faucet just to be safe, but I did clean all of that when the last keg kicked.

If it wasn't a hazy IPA and for the fact that the precarbed taste I took was outstanding (Citra, Strata, I7 is one of my favorite hop combos) I probably wouldn't worry about it, but I really don't want to oxidize this one.

If the pours are ok and just slow, I’d let it be. This used to happen to me a lot with stouts. No matter how meticulous I was, some mixture of cacao and/or coffee beans would make their way into my liquid line. I just lived with the slow pours.

 

[ihavenonickname]

I kegged my latest NEIPA and looking for some advice. Did a closed transfer from the fermenter and the first bit in the transfer line looked like a big glob of krausen, trub, hops idk but not the nice light colored liquid that transferred after that. I have a FDT in the fermenter I draw out of and then FDT in the keg that I fill into. It's hard to tell what the "glob" was but guessing krausen worked it's way through the screen on the FDT during fermentation. My hope was it would settle out into the bottom of the keg and I would be fine from there.

After fast carbing the beer and putting it into my keezer the beer is pouring really slow so I'm guessing I still have some of whatever it is in the FDT line. So do I....

• Try pushing some CO2 back through the FDT. I'm a little afraid if there is a plug this could just push the filter and float off the end of the line and then I'm in trouble.
• Open up the keg and try fix it and expose things to oxygen? I could try to CO2 purge after I do that but I know how things go when you have a keg open trying to fix things - I always end up with the lid open longer than I like. I also have a full corny keg and if I end up concluding I have to replace the FDT line I'm not sure how I'm going to do that with out putting my hand in the beer which seems like a bad plan.
• Just live with slow pours for one keg of beer - it's really slow but not so bad I couldn't live with it (and maybe things work themselves out and I get a glob in one glass I have to dump and then things are fine)
• Purge another keg and try another close transfer. But if the "glob" is in the line I probably just end up moving it to the second keg. Although it's weird that it isn't coming out when I pour.
• Other idea someone has here

I also suppose it's possible I have another issue going on and it isn't anything stuck in the line, but I've been using this keezer set up a while and the other three kegs are pouring fine. I will check the line and probably pull apart the faucet just to be safe, but I did clean all of that when the last keg kicked.

If it wasn't a hazy IPA and for the fact that the precarbed taste I took was outstanding (Citra, Strata, I7 is one of my favorite hop combos) I probably wouldn't worry about it, but I really don't want to oxidize this one.

Ya if the pours are just slow and the carb/foam levels are fine, I would just leave it. But every time I’ve had trouble with a clog it’s always a little hop particle in the liquid post poppet. And that’s pretty low risk to just de pressurize the keg, unscrew the post, rinse out the poppet and put it back together. It only exposes that little section of air above the beer in the dip tube. Pour and beer and the rest of the should be fine.

 

[Langerz]

Not this will help you, but I use a Bouncer filter to filter out hops and trub when closed transferring. I run a bit of beer through the filter and tube running to keg WITHOUT it being hooked up to keg. As the beer is flowing out of the tube that will be hooked up to keg I hook the liquid QD up to the line and then onto pop onto the keg. That way I clean out trub from the first pour from the fermenter and clear the line out of oxygen as an added bonus.

I think I will add a process step to push a bit of beer into a separate container after this experience.

If the pours are ok and just slow, I’d let it be. This used to happen to me a lot with stouts. No matter how meticulous I was, some mixture of cacao and/or coffee beans would make their way into my liquid line. I just lived with the slow pours.

Ya if the pours are just slow and the carb/foam levels are fine, I would just leave it. But every time I’ve had trouble with a clog it’s always a little hop particle in the liquid post poppet. And that’s pretty low risk to just de pressurize the keg, unscrew the post, rinse out the poppet and put it back together. It only exposes that little section of air above the beer in the dip tube. Pour and beer and the rest of the should be fine.

Thanks guys I think I will take off the post and see if that helps and otherwise live with it. Also thanks everyone for the tangent in the thread. I could have posted this in a kegging thread, but wanted to make sure the advice was "O2/NEIPA sensitive"

 

[DuncB]

Purge a beer line of say 5 foot with CO2, have a liquid ball lock on one end attach this to liquid post.
Gas ball lock other end.
Vent beer up line by releasing pressure on the gas ball lock until beer about to come out.
Then force that beer back in through poppet using CO2.
Obviously full sanitary precautions.
Easy to repeat this a few times before you get the spanner out.

 

[Dwaynehaze]

How are yall calculating your brewers crystals in your brewing software?

 

[balrog]

I would think blowing CO2 into a keg would stir up more issues unless you're using a floating dip tube.

 

[RCope]

How are yall calculating your brewers crystals in your brewing software?

Brewer's Friend screenshot:

 

[Dwaynehaze]

Brewer's Friend screenshot:
View attachment 843348

Weird brewfather doesn't have it added for some odd reason.

 

[smalloy88]

I think I will add a process step to push a bit of beer into a separate container after this experience.




Thanks guys I think I will take off the post and see if that helps and otherwise live with it. Also thanks everyone for the tangent in the thread. I could have posted this in a kegging thread, but wanted to make sure the advice was "O2/NEIPA sensitive"

As long as you have a co2 blanket on while you clear the poppet, you should be fine

 

[Dgallo]

How are yall calculating your brewers crystals in your brewing software?

You can add it as 2row. It gives the same 36 points

 

[Langerz]

Reporting back. Finally a had chance to investigate the slow pour issue. Pulled the liquid post and noticed something black. The little o ring on the poppet came off and was stuck between the poppet and post. Quick easy fix.

Here’s the first real pour. This is my best yet. Lots of citrus and stone fruit and really smooth soft mouth feel.

Malts
72% 2 Row Xtra Pale
12.5% Malt Oat
12% White Wheat
3.5% Flaked Oats

Also added a pound of Malto for the first time (see several posts back I mentioned trying it to increase FG)

Hops
Magnum in boil to 39 IBUs
Strata and Idaho 7 Cryo in the Whirlpool
Citra, Strata and Idaho 7 in the DH

Yeast
Cellar Science Hazy - first time trying and after fermentation read some bad reviews and was nervous

OG 1.083
FG 1.022

View attachment 784182-IMG-0047.jpeg

 

[Langerz]

Any idea why I can't get the picture to post? Tried from multiple ways and devices. Have posted many pictures here.

 

[smalloy88]

Any idea why I can't get the picture to post? Tried from multiple ways and devices. Have posted many pictures here.

I'm able to view the picture. It's just not embedded in the post

 

[Langerz]

I'm able to view the picture. It's just not embedded in the post

Yeah that's what I meant. Same on my end. Didn't do anything different then usual. I guess not a big deal

 

[ihavenonickname]

Reporting back. Finally a had chance to investigate the slow pour issue. Pulled the liquid post and noticed something black. The little o ring on the poppet came off and was stuck between the poppet and post. Quick easy fix.

Here’s the first real pour. This is my best yet. Lots of citrus and stone fruit and really smooth soft mouth feel.

Malts
72% 2 Row Xtra Pale
12.5% Malt Oat
12% White Wheat
3.5% Flaked Oats

Also added a pound of Malto for the first time (see several posts back I mentioned trying it to increase FG)

Hops
Magnum in boil to 39 IBUs
Strata and Idaho 7 Cryo in the Whirlpool
Citra, Strata and Idaho 7 in the DH

Yeast
Cellar Science Hazy - first time trying and after fermentation read some bad reviews and was nervous

OG 1.083
FG 1.022

View attachment 843537

Looks great - are you liking that much bittering addition? What do you think of the maltodextrin?

I’ve been thinking about the difference between a WP for 20 minutes that a lot of us do and the WP most pros do - which might be a quick WP but it takes another 40 minutes to get the hot wort off the hops - so usually a 60 minutes whirpool - that might be a a 20+ibu difference. I think that why many of us here prefer a 10 minute addition or extra in bittering like you have.

 

[Langerz]

Looks great - are you liking that much bittering addition? What do you think of the maltodextrin?

I’ve been thinking about the difference between a WP for 20 minutes that a lot of us do and the WP most pros do - which might be a quick WP but it takes another 40 minutes to get the hot wort off the hops - so usually a 60 minutes whirpool - that might be a a 20+ibu difference. I think that why many of us here prefer a 10 minute addition or extra in bittering like you have.

There’s probably personal preference but I wouldn’t want to go lower than that on bitterness. Even at that it’s not strong. The flavor is citrus and fruity not bitter

On the malts it’s a bit hard to tell because there were two new things that affect FG on this brew. This was my first NEIPA that wasn’t biab in my garage on propane with a setup that was hard to really control mash temp. So I’m confident this time I held the mash temp higher plus used malto. Definitely better body than I’ve had before. Which variable was more significant idk

 

[secretlevel]

Reporting back. Finally a had chance to investigate the slow pour issue. Pulled the liquid post and noticed something black. The little o ring on the poppet came off and was stuck between the poppet and post. Quick easy fix.

Here’s the first real pour. This is my best yet. Lots of citrus and stone fruit and really smooth soft mouth feel.

Malts
72% 2 Row Xtra Pale
12.5% Malt Oat
12% White Wheat
3.5% Flaked Oats

Also added a pound of Malto for the first time (see several posts back I mentioned trying it to increase FG)

Hops
Magnum in boil to 39 IBUs
Strata and Idaho 7 Cryo in the Whirlpool
Citra, Strata and Idaho 7 in the DH

Yeast
Cellar Science Hazy - first time trying and after fermentation read some bad reviews and was nervous

OG 1.083
FG 1.022

View attachment 843537

I'm thinking about using this hop combo, but thought that it'd be a little too dank between Idaho 7 and Strata. Any thoughts there? Also, are all of your hops from YVH? Any cryo in DH?

 

[Langerz]

I'm thinking about using this hop combo, but thought that it'd be a little too dank between Idaho 7 and Strata. Any thoughts there? Also, are all of your hops from YVH? Any cryo in DH?

Take my comments maybe with a grain of salt because I love a dank ipa. I actually thought this could have a little more dank flavor. The citrus and fruit is more pronounced for me.

Normal I get all my hops from YVH but this time the only thing I needed was the Idaho 7 so I just ordered it with my grain and the only option was YCH. The dry hop was also cryo for the I7 but that was the only one

 

[cold_crash]

Hey guys. Thinking about experimenting with my dry hopping technique and would love to hear your thoughts - just brewed a DIPA and am going to hit it with a pretty large charge of Nelson (~6lbs/bbl).

I heard a rumour a while back that Alchemist uses a DH method where they create a slurry of hot water (82°C) and their dry hop charge and send it in through the bottom of their conical. It makes sense as that’s the temp I typically drop my WP down to, but am wondering if there are any opinions out there about this method?

 

[Dgallo]

Hey guys. Thinking about experimenting with my dry hopping technique and would love to hear your thoughts - just brewed a DIPA and am going to hit it with a pretty large charge of Nelson (~6lbs/bbl).

I heard a rumour a while back that Alchemist uses a DH method where they create a slurry of hot water (82°C) and their dry hop charge and send it in through the bottom of their conical. It makes sense as that’s the temp I typically drop my WP down to, but am wondering if there are any opinions out there about this method?

That technique is called "DIP" hopping and its not during the dry hop, its performed during the whirlpool stage. You take a small portion of your wort, say 1 gallon and hold it at 170-175*f (75-80*c) and add roughly 4 oz of hop to it holding the temp for about 30min-1hr. During this time you are also whirlpool hoping the rest of your wort. Then your "DIP" hoped wort, hops and all go into your fermenter. Then you rack the rest of your wort (pitching temps) and rack it clean onto of what's already in the fermenter and then pitch.

 

[cold_crash]

That technique is called "DIP" hopping and it’s not during the dry hop, it’s performed during the whirlpool stage. You take a small portion of your wort, say 1 gallon and hold it at 170-175*f (75-80*c) and add roughly 4 oz of hop to it holding the temp for about 30min-1hr. During this time you are also whirlpool hoping the rest of your wort. Then your "DIP" hoped wort, hops and all go into your fermenter. Then you rack the rest of your wort (pitching temps) and rack it clean onto of what's already in the fermenter and then pitch.

I’m familiar with dip hopping - I’ve done it before along with the North Park extract method. My question was more so regarding the actual dry hop process, and the technique I mentioned above. I’ve heard that Greg Noonan used that method, but John Kimmich elevated the technique. The way I interpret it is dip hopping but post ferm, if that makes sense.

 

[Dgallo]

I’m familiar with dip hopping - I’ve done it before along with the North Park extract method. My question was more so regarding the actual dry hop process, and the technique I mentioned above. I’ve heard that Greg Noonan used that method, but John Kimmich elevated the technique. The way I interpret it is dip hopping but post ferm, if that makes sense.

That’s very new to me if they are doing this post ferm. do you happen to have the article(s) that this was stated, I’d be interested in reading it.

Seems like an o2 issue and would provide the same exact character of dip hoping or whirlpooling so im having a difficult out time seeing what’s advantageous about doing this post ferm

 

[cold_crash]

That’s very new to me if they are doing this post ferm. do you happen to have the article(s) that this was stated, I’d be interested in reading it.

Seems like an o2 issue and would provide the same exact character of dip hoping or whirlpooling so im having a difficult out time seeing what’s advantageous about doing this post ferm

Let me try and find where I read this. I know Noonan briefly mentions this method in New brewing lager, but I’ll search for where Kimmich says this.

I think doing a good job purging whatever you are using to send the hops in with co2 would combat any o2 pick up. And as far as the character goes, I think the idea behind it is to use a temp suitable for extracting aroma and flavour, instead of doing a massive dh dose and getting something super grassy or burny

 

[Dgallo]

Let me try and find where I read this. I know Noonan briefly mentions this method in New brewing lager, but I’ll search for where Kimmich says this.

I think doing a good job purging whatever you are using to send the hops in with co2 would combat any o2 pick up. And as far as the character goes, I think the idea behind it is to use a temp suitable for extracting aroma and flavour, instead of doing a massive dh dose and getting something super grassy or burny

I do huge dryhop doses and never get grassy or hop burn unless my process/temps are messed up or the hops are bad.

I’m concerned with the methods o2 not because of purging but due to the water your mixing the hops in having a high DO already and or when moving the hops around getting DO. What you’re explaining that they are doing is making a hop tea. Not bad in of itself but it is risky post fermentation and especially especially with this style.

I just literally can’t even phathom Kimmich doing this, atleast the way I’m thinking of it being done. I haven’t heard of anyone doing this since maybe 2014. Not saying no one is but I stay pretty up to date with best EBP of brewing through reading and the various brewing communities (online and in person) that I feel I would have heard of this being popular again