7lb/barrel
FTFY
FTFY
New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA
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ihavenonickname
Well-Known Member
Yeah I agree. And to be clear 2-2.5 oz per gallon as you suggest is really 12-15 oz of t90 for us.
My plan above of 19oz DH I am reporting that as t90 equivalent- it’s actually 4 oz of Lupo max (=6oz of t90) and 2 oz cry (=4oz t90). So I’ll be dropping 15oz total mass but it’s 19 oz equivalent). My last batch I did 15oz t90 and it got me where I wanted… pretty much.
But yeah to account for our lack of hop quality being a little less pungent, I think it makes sense to aim for a higher DH rate than the pros do. So I’m wanting to push it a little more, of course at the risk of too much veg matter.
But again I dont think this big DH rate is necessary for everyone to do to make a great example, but it does have its positive effects that I’m looking for in the final product.
My plan above of 19oz DH I am reporting that as t90 equivalent- it’s actually 4 oz of Lupo max (=6oz of t90) and 2 oz cry (=4oz t90). So I’ll be dropping 15oz total mass but it’s 19 oz equivalent). My last batch I did 15oz t90 and it got me where I wanted… pretty much.
But yeah to account for our lack of hop quality being a little less pungent, I think it makes sense to aim for a higher DH rate than the pros do. So I’m wanting to push it a little more, of course at the risk of too much veg matter.
But again I dont think this big DH rate is necessary for everyone to do to make a great example, but it does have its positive effects that I’m looking for in the final product.
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Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
Hop quality doesn’t always account for potency. It also has to do with the clarity/quality of the character its self. By increasing the amount you are also increasing the off characters in some of the hops. Take my recent west coast ipa I did. It’s ok but I definitely went too high with talus and it has pretty strong undertones of the cedar character. Since I elevated the talus too much the finish of this beer is like chewing on a popsicle stick, which I dislike about the beer.
I think it all comes down to the pure quality of the hop. If you have some solid hops then I’d imagine you can push the limit
beervoid
Hophead & Pellet Rubber
I'd also wonder how much extraction you would be able to get out of static dryhopping big dryhop amounts with yeast present in the fv, which most homebrewers do.
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
I’d say that’s also a factor. That said as homebrewers we can physically move our equipment by hand so if you do have the ability to drop or get off the yeast, say a dryhoping keg or similar (I use closed transfer fermonsters) you can physically roll and agitate the keg. So we do have the potential (equipment dependent) to get better extraction
Northern_Brewer
British - apparently some US company stole my name
The other big difference between us and commercial breweries is that they can bring technology like centrifuges to the party, which can reduce the grassiness of big dry hop loads as well as increasing yields.
Look at what you people made me do! I’m joking it was going to happen eventually anyway. Now next weekend a “practice run” with something easier and a couple weeks after that the real thing.
I’ve picked up a lot regarding closed transfers/kegging etc reading this and other threads, but also probably need to educate myself a bit there too. I’ll search around the forum but if there are any places people want me to short cut me toward I’d appreciate it. I’ll start this weekend with cleaning.
I’ve picked up a lot regarding closed transfers/kegging etc reading this and other threads, but also probably need to educate myself a bit there too. I’ll search around the forum but if there are any places people want me to short cut me toward I’d appreciate it. I’ll start this weekend with cleaning.
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aaronm13
Well-Known Member
This is my last beer a Citra/Nelson/Nectaron DIPA. Last weekend it won gold in the Irish National Homebrew competition in the American IPA category. Was really happy with the win and backs up I'm heading in the right direction with my process. Recipe is
Pale malt 38%
Golden Promise 10%
Naked oat malt 23%
Flaked Oat 8%
Spelt 12%
Carafoam 8%
Cara malt 1%
Dry hop
6oz Citra (t90 and Lupomax)
3oz Nelson
3oz Nectaron
OG 1.085
FG 1.022
Verdant yeast
I brewed this about 5 weeks before the competition to give me plenty of time to condition. At kegging it tasted very good but extremely green so could see the potential. Over the next few weeks it took a nose dive flavorwise. It became so boozy, citra totally died off and was pretty unpleasant to drink. 5 days before entries needed to be submitted I decided to add 2oz of citra and 1oz Nelson. This was the game changer again. Beer was back on track. As of now this was the beer I wanted to brew and reckon I would have scored better if it had another week on the additional hops. I don't like having to do this but all the best beers I've brewed I've had to do this. Going back on the feedback on the score sheets they mentioned esters were not very strong.
What's the best way to boost this? I've gotten pretty lazy lately with just using new packs of Verdant so maybe I should start harvesting and get a few generations out of a pitch. I usually pitch at 65, let free rise to 68/69 and hold for around 2 days then let free rise to 72/73 to finish off.
Pale malt 38%
Golden Promise 10%
Naked oat malt 23%
Flaked Oat 8%
Spelt 12%
Carafoam 8%
Cara malt 1%
Dry hop
6oz Citra (t90 and Lupomax)
3oz Nelson
3oz Nectaron
OG 1.085
FG 1.022
Verdant yeast
I brewed this about 5 weeks before the competition to give me plenty of time to condition. At kegging it tasted very good but extremely green so could see the potential. Over the next few weeks it took a nose dive flavorwise. It became so boozy, citra totally died off and was pretty unpleasant to drink. 5 days before entries needed to be submitted I decided to add 2oz of citra and 1oz Nelson. This was the game changer again. Beer was back on track. As of now this was the beer I wanted to brew and reckon I would have scored better if it had another week on the additional hops. I don't like having to do this but all the best beers I've brewed I've had to do this. Going back on the feedback on the score sheets they mentioned esters were not very strong.
What's the best way to boost this? I've gotten pretty lazy lately with just using new packs of Verdant so maybe I should start harvesting and get a few generations out of a pitch. I usually pitch at 65, let free rise to 68/69 and hold for around 2 days then let free rise to 72/73 to finish off.
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Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
Congrats on the hardware!
aaronm13
Well-Known Member
Thanks man. I owe a lot of it to you for all the advice over the last few years.
This is a bit of a tangent but related to discussion in here. Do you guys take the same approach to dry hopping for NEIPAs (soft crash the dry hop “cool” then cold crash) for any IPA or any dry hop? Now that I have the ability to control temp and keg I’m going to practice process on something easier to work out the kinks in transferring etc and was curious if people took the same approach for any IPA or similar
secretlevel
Well-Known Member
Are you talking about kegging or fermenting in kegs? I've been fermenting in my kegs recently and have been loving it. All you really need is a floating dip tube and you're off to the races. The best part for me is that I can fit 2 of them into my fermentation fridge at once and do split batches. Plus, this is great since a keg can only ferment about 3.5-4 gallons without krausen going everywhere.
secretlevel
Well-Known Member
Nicely done! Just curious - are you dropping in the hops in all at once or in multiple stages (Double Dry Hop)?
I used to dump all of the hops in at once for the sake of preventing excess O2 from coming in, but I'd always end up going back in and having to add more hops in the end. It's made a big difference doing a DDH to me.
daygobrewer
Well-Known Member
Are you dry hopping in the same keg you're fermenting in? What's your dry hop process using kegs?
I soft crash to 48f for a couple days, dump yeast, dry hop at 55f for a couple days, sometimes split the dryhop into 2 additions half one day, half the next. Then after 3 days I could crash for atleast 48 hours to 38f then keg. When you transfer to the keg I highly recommend a bouncer filter and plan on losing a gallon to trub/hop material in the bottom of the fermenter, if not more. Make sure you purge your lines before transferring as well.
To start with I was going to keep fermenting in my carboy. I have a couple glass carboys to ferment in and part of me likes being to look at the beer in the fermenter (It’s not doing anything but my brain likes it. The down side like you said for right now I can only get two kegs and a carboy in the chest freezer I got. Upside I’d also rather get a full five gallons from my time spent. If that’s too much of an issue I’m sure I’ll talk myself into another chest freezer before long.
secretlevel
Well-Known Member
For now, yes. I currently add DH 1 at 95-99% of fermentation - run CO2 at 5 PSI, open, throw in hops, and close, purge 10 times. Crash after 2 days and add next DH at 55F, same thing with the CO2 and purging.
But it'd be an interesting experiment. I've heard lots of professional brewers and folks on here talking about extended contact time with the hops as a negative, but what's the extent of the impact here.I could do this experiment with one keg vs the other and see what impact it has:
Control: both DH's in one keg, then rack to serving keg.
Variation: one late ferm DH in the fermentation keg, cold crash, and rack to another keg with DH #2, then rack to serving keg.
I believe variation is what you do right now, @Dgallo ?
ihavenonickname
Well-Known Member
I see a potential problem with that schedule… if you are adding hops warm and crashing 2 days later, when are you clearing diacetyl?
Edit: I’ll answer my question… maybe you clear it in those 2 days, but are you checking? Eventually you’ll get a butter bomb. I actually think you should leave it on those hops longer OR finish ferm, clear diacetyl, crash down then dry hop once or twice.
Edit: I’ll answer my question… maybe you clear it in those 2 days, but are you checking? Eventually you’ll get a butter bomb. I actually think you should leave it on those hops longer OR finish ferm, clear diacetyl, crash down then dry hop once or twice.
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Benson Brewhouse
Basement Dwelling Homebrewer
Re: hop contact time - Scott Janish touches on it in his book (I believe he references an Oregon State U Study) and there was a recent podcast with Vinnie Cilurzo from Russian River - the basic idea is that you reach optimal hop saturation and flavor/aroma extraction significantly faster than was previously assumed, in as little as 24-72 hours, and beyond 72 hours contact time can actually lead to the hop green matter reabsorbing some amount of aroma. How perceptible is this? No idea, but there does seem to be some technical science behind it. I would be curious to see your results if you did a split batch!
secretlevel
Well-Known Member
Good call, I've given it longer on occasions, but I've slowly been cutting it out, especially since I've been using ALDC to prevent diacetyl. But yes, this was an issue at one point a couple of years ago when I dry hopped a pilsner in keg. W34/70 somehow refermented that beer at 39F.
Exactly, lots of folks have been talking about this lately and it'll be a great test. I remember Janish saying he hit a saturation point after 24-48 hours without rousing. Science is science, but how much of a difference will it make when an average person tastes it? On paper, you'll see less ppm of this compound or that, but what's the sensory threshold for those?
aaronm13
Well-Known Member
Do you find ALDC worth using? Diacetyl is one of the main things that stops me partly dry hopping in the fermenter as I'm worried about an extended hop contact time while waiting on the diacetyl rest to finish.
Benson Brewhouse
Basement Dwelling Homebrewer
I have a Spike Flex+ so I can't dump yeast and hops like I would prefer. To combat diacetyl and maintain a strict dry hopping schedule, I do the following with award winning results.
* Zero mid-fermentation hops, you get plenty of biotransformation from the hops in suspension in your whirlpool
- Ferment at your normal temp, into a blowoff for 18-24 hours.
- Add spunding valve and raise to 15 PSI for the remainder of fermentation.
- When 7 points from expected terminal gravity, raise temp to 72° and hold for 72 hours for a diacetyl rest (I used to test for this, I don't anymore - 72 hours has become my SOP).
- After 72 hours, I soft crash to 58° and dry hop through a dry hopper.
- Crash immediately to 38° and hold for exactly 48 hours
- Close transfer through high micron filter to keg
- Beer is drinkable after 1-2 days, but exceptionally better after about 14-21 days once the hop burn calms
This has more or less been my process for the past three years, however I just recently starting pressure fermenting and to my perception, the beers have significantly better aroma.
ihavenonickname
Well-Known Member
What’s your thinking with Dry hopping at 58 and crashing to 38? Why not drop to 38 and DH at 38? Or keep at 58? Just curious
Benson Brewhouse
Basement Dwelling Homebrewer
If I could drop my yeast I would soft crash to 58, dump the cone, then hold at 58 for 48hrs, rousing, then dumping any hops that settle into the cone, then cold crash with all/most of the hops dumped.
Since I can't, I simulate the closest I can to this process. 58 is the safe zone where refermentation cannot occur - I'm simply crashing to 38 and dry hopping at 58 on the way down, nothing more.
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
Yeah I’m pretty close to that just with modified fermonsters. Run fermentation and the cold crash. Then rack into a purged fermonster with the dryhop load and close transfer over and dryhop around 56*f for 36 hours with periodic agitation. Then transfer through floating diptube to serving keg.
Works really well
secretlevel
Well-Known Member
50's is like a sweet spot where most of the ale yeast sinks, but hops do not! So they stay in suspension instead of dropping straight down.
And yes, ALDC works, at least in my limited experience and a few brewers that I heard use it on CB&B podcast.
Mjpetrag
Member
Just brewed my first beer with incognito this morning. Earlier posts talked about horror stories with clean up and oil floating. I did not experience this.
I preheated the entire bottle in 175 F water for about 10 mins, and dumped the whole bottle right into the whirlpool at 165 F right after. It poured like olive oil, went right in, floated on top for about 5 minutes and then completely dissolved. I have a circulation pump so maybe that helped with mixing but it was very easy to use. The boil kettle did not have clean up issues either with oil stuck to the walls.
It also smells amazing, very different than normal hop aroma.
I preheated the entire bottle in 175 F water for about 10 mins, and dumped the whole bottle right into the whirlpool at 165 F right after. It poured like olive oil, went right in, floated on top for about 5 minutes and then completely dissolved. I have a circulation pump so maybe that helped with mixing but it was very easy to use. The boil kettle did not have clean up issues either with oil stuck to the walls.
It also smells amazing, very different than normal hop aroma.
Going to use Incognito and Spectrum on my next brew. Was thinking about whirlpooling in the conical to avoid leaving some of the oil in the kettle. I may try in the kettle based on your experience. Did you add any hop pellets prior to adding the Incognito as has been suggested?
Mjpetrag
Member
I had 1 oz or so of boil hops, then dumped in 3 oz of whirlpool hops at the same time as I put in the bottle of incognito. 7 gal batch
Getting ready to take my first shot at an NEIPA and thinking through process. Quick question to clarify this.
During the soft crash are you leaving the CO2 tank connected at 2 psi? If so aren't you carbonating the beer a bit? 2 psi at 50F shows ~1.3 volumes of CO2 which isn't high but something to deal with when you transfer to the serving keg. Or are you just keeping the pressure on until you get down to temperature and then removing it (probably when you throw in the hops) in which case I assume the amount of carbonation is minimal?
First time poster, but have been following this thread for years. Big thank you to all the contributors, there’s a wealth of information in here.
After somewhere between 30-40 iterations of an NEIPA, I finally feel like I’m close to hitting the mark of what I look for in commercial examples of the style. My only gripe, is that there is really no individuality in the hops I use. Everything I make (IPA wise) comes out practically the same in terms of hop flavor. If I had to describe it, I would just say generic hoppiness or a hop soup. It’s not a taste I hate, I’ve certainly had worse commercial examples, and some friends think it’s great. But again, no individuality to my brews, just more of the same. This happens using different hops, different styles (WC and NE), even using just a single hop (Citra, Columbus, Chinook are what I’ve tried.). I buy my hops exclusively from YVH, vac seal the whole Mylar bags they come in, and keep them in the freezer out of light.
I originally chalked this up to oxidation, given how much that can wreck and change the taste. But since I feel like I’ve really dialed in low oxygen techniques, I don’t think this is my issue anymore. Additionally, the beer has the same taste right after initial kegging all the way to ~2 months out, with no perceptible change in color. I even bottled one straight from the faucet of my kegerator in December, and opened it this past weekend. Color had changed a little, but the aroma and flavor was still way better than many commercial examples (mainly referring to bigger brands that taste fine if found fresh but after a month or two on the shelves just turn into that bleh IPA taste) which I did not expect at all. So again, I really do not think oxygen ingress is my issue, but I will detail my process.
Brew day: BIAB mash at 154 with 7gal water, sparge until 7gal reached. (My kettle only holds 9gal, so I can’t full volume mash). Boil, usually with a full wort or boil hop addition at 60min. Whirlpool 170-180. All hops in wire screen can for removal before going in fermenter.
Ferment: Using a chest freezer. Omega DIPA normally, though have used LA3 and Verdant. Start at 68, 70 after 2 days, 72 after 2 days, 74 until about 2 weeks has passed since entering fermenter. I use a blow off tube into water/starsan until that has slacked off, then attach spunding valve at ~12 psi.
Dry hop: Fill dry hop keg with starsan mix, push mix out with CO2 (can’t fit two kegs in freezer or would use excess CO2 for this.) When it’s spitting just CO2 and bubbles I attach the ball lock liquid post to the empty spitting end, to theoretically “purge” my liquid transfer line. When post is attached to line I also press the plunger to push more C02 out, just for assurance. Once keg empty as possible, set psi to ~5 and run CO2, open, dump hops, close, purge a few times. Closed transfer from ferment keg to dryhop keg. In the past I was dryhopping at 50-52, but the last 2 batches I placed the pressurized keg in my kegerator at ~37, and roll the keg every 6 or so hours for 1-1.5 days to suspend the hops. For me, this has yielded the best concentration of taste (that generic hop taste!) and aroma with almost none of the green harsh bitterness I had when using different methods and contact times. After 1-1.5 days in dry hop keg, I transfer to the serving keg, again purged by starsan and the liquid line “purged.” Every single line connection everywhere, gas or liquid, is sealed with an oetiker hose clamp. I do not see bubbles forming in the liquid lines that would suggest a leak. I usually also spray starsan on posts etc of anything pressurized to see if bubbles form/a leak is present.
All that said, the only variables I feel like I may not be doing right are water chemistry and the PH. I use Bru’n Water, and my city Raleigh offers a water report for brewers, so I feel like I’m doing it correctly, but I could be entirely off. However, I have used Raleigh water treated with my additions, Raleigh water untreated, Primo dispenser RO water treated (from 3 different dispensers, and Primo dispenser RO water untreated and the “taste” has largely remained the same, though sometimes there’s more or less of it. Outside of the values obtained from Bru’n Water and my additions, I don’t monitor PH during brewing and definitely don’t adjust for it. I’ve seen various information regarding PH’s impact on dry hops, so I feel like this could be where I’m going wrong and am happy to get a meter if its what will up my game.
If you made it this far, thanks for reading. And another big thank you to the contributors in this thread! I’d be so behind without it.
Hopefully I included everything necessary. I will attach my recipe, city water report, my inputs on Bru’n water, and the Bru’n water outputs in hopes someone can tell me where I’m going wrong. Also attaching a picture of my dryhop keg setup in case it helps someone out. Many ways to do it, it was just what worked for me given the equipment I already had on hand.
EDIT: My water chemistry mash and sparge amounts are set at 5gal because I use two plastic fermenters marked at 5 gal and dump the excess, just to keep measurements/additions the same, if that makes sense.
After somewhere between 30-40 iterations of an NEIPA, I finally feel like I’m close to hitting the mark of what I look for in commercial examples of the style. My only gripe, is that there is really no individuality in the hops I use. Everything I make (IPA wise) comes out practically the same in terms of hop flavor. If I had to describe it, I would just say generic hoppiness or a hop soup. It’s not a taste I hate, I’ve certainly had worse commercial examples, and some friends think it’s great. But again, no individuality to my brews, just more of the same. This happens using different hops, different styles (WC and NE), even using just a single hop (Citra, Columbus, Chinook are what I’ve tried.). I buy my hops exclusively from YVH, vac seal the whole Mylar bags they come in, and keep them in the freezer out of light.
I originally chalked this up to oxidation, given how much that can wreck and change the taste. But since I feel like I’ve really dialed in low oxygen techniques, I don’t think this is my issue anymore. Additionally, the beer has the same taste right after initial kegging all the way to ~2 months out, with no perceptible change in color. I even bottled one straight from the faucet of my kegerator in December, and opened it this past weekend. Color had changed a little, but the aroma and flavor was still way better than many commercial examples (mainly referring to bigger brands that taste fine if found fresh but after a month or two on the shelves just turn into that bleh IPA taste) which I did not expect at all. So again, I really do not think oxygen ingress is my issue, but I will detail my process.
Brew day: BIAB mash at 154 with 7gal water, sparge until 7gal reached. (My kettle only holds 9gal, so I can’t full volume mash). Boil, usually with a full wort or boil hop addition at 60min. Whirlpool 170-180. All hops in wire screen can for removal before going in fermenter.
Ferment: Using a chest freezer. Omega DIPA normally, though have used LA3 and Verdant. Start at 68, 70 after 2 days, 72 after 2 days, 74 until about 2 weeks has passed since entering fermenter. I use a blow off tube into water/starsan until that has slacked off, then attach spunding valve at ~12 psi.
Dry hop: Fill dry hop keg with starsan mix, push mix out with CO2 (can’t fit two kegs in freezer or would use excess CO2 for this.) When it’s spitting just CO2 and bubbles I attach the ball lock liquid post to the empty spitting end, to theoretically “purge” my liquid transfer line. When post is attached to line I also press the plunger to push more C02 out, just for assurance. Once keg empty as possible, set psi to ~5 and run CO2, open, dump hops, close, purge a few times. Closed transfer from ferment keg to dryhop keg. In the past I was dryhopping at 50-52, but the last 2 batches I placed the pressurized keg in my kegerator at ~37, and roll the keg every 6 or so hours for 1-1.5 days to suspend the hops. For me, this has yielded the best concentration of taste (that generic hop taste!) and aroma with almost none of the green harsh bitterness I had when using different methods and contact times. After 1-1.5 days in dry hop keg, I transfer to the serving keg, again purged by starsan and the liquid line “purged.” Every single line connection everywhere, gas or liquid, is sealed with an oetiker hose clamp. I do not see bubbles forming in the liquid lines that would suggest a leak. I usually also spray starsan on posts etc of anything pressurized to see if bubbles form/a leak is present.
All that said, the only variables I feel like I may not be doing right are water chemistry and the PH. I use Bru’n Water, and my city Raleigh offers a water report for brewers, so I feel like I’m doing it correctly, but I could be entirely off. However, I have used Raleigh water treated with my additions, Raleigh water untreated, Primo dispenser RO water treated (from 3 different dispensers, and Primo dispenser RO water untreated and the “taste” has largely remained the same, though sometimes there’s more or less of it. Outside of the values obtained from Bru’n Water and my additions, I don’t monitor PH during brewing and definitely don’t adjust for it. I’ve seen various information regarding PH’s impact on dry hops, so I feel like this could be where I’m going wrong and am happy to get a meter if its what will up my game.
If you made it this far, thanks for reading. And another big thank you to the contributors in this thread! I’d be so behind without it.
Hopefully I included everything necessary. I will attach my recipe, city water report, my inputs on Bru’n water, and the Bru’n water outputs in hopes someone can tell me where I’m going wrong. Also attaching a picture of my dryhop keg setup in case it helps someone out. Many ways to do it, it was just what worked for me given the equipment I already had on hand.
EDIT: My water chemistry mash and sparge amounts are set at 5gal because I use two plastic fermenters marked at 5 gal and dump the excess, just to keep measurements/additions the same, if that makes sense.
Attachments
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Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
I keep the co2 attached. I’m only soft crashing for 36 - 48 hours, so it doesn’t nearly have enough time to get to 1.3 vols. There will be some carbonation occurring though but nothing that will effect the transfer
I, and several others, fill a mylar balloon with co2 and attach that to the gas post on the converted fermonster. I like the simplicity and not having to worry about monitoring the co2 tank, plus then I just leave it on for cold crashing.
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Do you recommend a single large dry hop of 10-14oz or a double dry hop, splitting that same amount in half for each?
If you have good control over oxygen, I find I get much better results by splitting it into 2 different additions 24 hours apart.
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
Completely depends on your equipment and ability to minimize o2.
I do one large dryhop as I can manage o2, removed the majority of the yeast, and have the ability to rouse/agitate the hops during to increase extraction.
If you can manage o2 well but can’t agitate or rouse then do 2 separate addition.
I believe you are dry hopping in a keg from reading this thread - are you just rouse/agitating by shaking the keg (gently I would imagine) or flipping it upside down? With a floating dip tube I don't see a good way rouse by injecting CO2.
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
Exactly. I have a fermonster where I modified the lid to have liquid and gas bulkheads that utilizes a floating diptube. If your subscribed To BREW your own magazine, my build and article was featured in the March-April addition. If you don’t have a subscription, I have a thread here on HBT
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...lete-closed-transfer-system-for-cheap.680992/
The way i agitate is to roll it and tilt carfully to moved the hops around. I’ll do this 3 to 4 times over the 36 hours
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Great advice, but I've also read you should raise the temperature after dry hopping to help prevent diacetyl post-hopping. Is that correct, or am I misunderstanding?
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
That’s a tough question to answer due to a few things;
- Diacetyl occurs due to hopcreep.
- Hopcreep occurs due to enzymes from the hops, the presence of active yeast
-raising the temp to address diacetyl will in turn create the new problem of hopburn.
So long story short, use practices or products to prevent hopcreep and you’ll avoid diacetyl and hopburn
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