New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[brooksidebrews]

I agree, their quality makes it worth it to me. Around me even the most mediocre breweries are getting 15.99-18.99 a 4 pack.

That said, Thin Man brewing out of Buffalo NY Is a great brewery to grab beer from cost to quality stand point. They aren’t the best but solid and their double IPAs are 15.99 a four pack

Great people at Thin Man also. Nice spot, I have enjoyed most of what I have tried from there..

 

[brooksidebrews]

Speaking of which, the editor of Brew Your Own (BYO) magazine saw my fermonster closed transfer lid build here on HBT and asked if I would be interested in writing an article for their DIY Project column. I agreed and it it in the March/April editionView attachment 814534View attachment 814533

Congratulations!

 

[wdavis2003]

Double NEIPA

5.5g batch
12 lb Pilsner
1.5 lb white wheat malt
2.5 lbs Flaked oats
1 lb golden naked oats

5gal distilled water for mash. 1 gal distilled first batch sparge, 3.88 second batch sparge. Stopped sparging when gravity was 1.018. Salts added to mash only
5g Gypsum
8g CaCl
2g Epsom
3g Ascorbic acid (Mash)

2oz Mosaic at WP (180 degrees)
2 oz Galaxy at WP
4 oz Mosaic Dry Hop (Day 3)
4 oz Galaxy Dry Hop (Day 3)

Pitched on top of Irish Red Ale yeast cake from previous brew (WY1084)

Pressure ferment at 75 degrees until terminal gravity reached (took 24 hours). I let the pressure build to about 30psi then ramped down to 12 psi for the rest of fermentation
Drop to 60 degrees and dry hopped for 3 days

1.064 SG
1.007 FG

Enjoying a week after brew day!

 

[Dgallo]

Double NEIPA

5.5g batch
12 lb Pilsner
1.5 lb white wheat malt
2.5 lbs Flaked oats
1 lb golden naked oats

5gal distilled water for mash. 1 gal distilled first batch sparge, 3.88 second batch sparge. Stopped sparging when gravity was 1.018. Salts added to mash only
5g Gypsum
8g CaCl
2g Epsom
3g Ascorbic acid (Mash)

2oz Mosaic at WP (180 degrees)
2 oz Galaxy at WP
4 oz Mosaic Dry Hop (Day 3)
4 oz Galaxy Dry Hop (Day 3)

Pitched on top of Irish Red Ale yeast cake from previous brew (WY1084)

Pressure ferment at 75 degrees until terminal gravity reached (took 24 hours). I let the pressure build to about 30psi then ramped down to 12 psi for the rest of fermentation
Drop to 60 degrees and dry hopped for 3 days

1.064 SG
1.007 FG

Enjoying a week after brew day!

View attachment 815249

Double NEIPA

5.5g batch
12 lb Pilsner
1.5 lb white wheat malt
2.5 lbs Flaked oats
1 lb golden naked oats

5gal distilled water for mash. 1 gal distilled first batch sparge, 3.88 second batch sparge. Stopped sparging when gravity was 1.018. Salts added to mash only
5g Gypsum
8g CaCl
2g Epsom
3g Ascorbic acid (Mash)

2oz Mosaic at WP (180 degrees)
2 oz Galaxy at WP
4 oz Mosaic Dry Hop (Day 3)
4 oz Galaxy Dry Hop (Day 3)

Pitched on top of Irish Red Ale yeast cake from previous brew (WY1084)

Pressure ferment at 75 degrees until terminal gravity reached (took 24 hours). I let the pressure build to about 30psi then ramped down to 12 psi for the rest of fermentation
Drop to 60 degrees and dry hopped for 3 days

1.064 SG
1.007 FG

Enjoying a week after brew day!

View attachment 815249

How’s the mouthfeel will it finishing so low? And is there a reason you went so fast with your grain to glass?

 

[wdavis2003]

How’s the mouthfeel will it finishing so low? And is there a reason you went so fast with your grain to glass?

I was worried about the FG gravity being to low but man, it tastes like a commercial quality NEIPA (like your favorite craft brewery not Sam Adam's Hazy). The reason I turned it around so quickly is just because the fermentation went so fast. I wanted the hops to pop as much as possible and due to pressure fermenting, the carbonation was nearly there when kegging. Basically, there just wasn't any reason to wait.

 

[agentbud]

Something interesting and new in the homebrew product market - Oxblox 3D. CellarScience® Oxblox 3D | Dissolved Oxygen Reducer | MoreBeer

Used to treat mash and sparge water to supposedly reduce oxidation. I wonder what the benefits are vs using SMB or campden tablets?

Help me understand this. What is the purpose of reducing O2 in the mash if yeast are gonna need it later?

 

[Dgallo]

Help me understand this. What is the purpose of reducing O2 in the mash if yeast are gonna need it later?

O2 in the mash will cause malt compounds to oxidize. It can also cause some darkening of color. I’m not absolutely LODO hotside but I reduce it as much as I can without adding too much time to my brew day. I will say my lagers and believe the robustness of malt character has increased because of it.

The o2 picked up during mashing does leave the wort during boiling so you mainly focusing on minimize the water already dissolved in to use mash water and trying not to splash more than you have to

 

[Ulisses4677]

This beer has been holding out pretty strong. Still has a very fruity aroma, down to my last few pints.

 

[agentbud]

I’m not absolutely LODO hotside but I reduce it as much as I can without adding too much time to my brew day.

Do you use Oxblox 3D or a similar additive? What steps do you take hotside?

 

[Dgallo]

Do you use Oxblox 3D or a similar additive? What steps do you take hotside?

I havent used any additives. Hotside for lagers I’ll boil my mash/sparge water for 5 minutes to removed a fair amount of our. Let it cool to strike temps and then rack into my mashtun with very little slashing. I don’t do any of this for ipas though

 

[jordanfrenzy]

Help me understand this. What is the purpose of reducing O2 in the mash if yeast are gonna need it later?

This is a very controversial topic in homebrewing right now. I think a lot of people do what I and Dgallo describe - avoid unnecessary oxidation on the hot side. If you want to follow the total LoDo process from start to finish it is a labor and equipment intensive process. I pre-treat my water (you can do this by boiling it to drive off oxygen or use yeast and sugar to let the yeast scavenge the oxygen available in your mash and sparge water. I also avoid any kind of splashing or agitation during mash or sparge. I also switched to adding my grain to my mash tun and underletting my mash water to avoid agitation during the mash.

I like the results, but it could be all in my head. It's been helpful for delicate beers like lager, but it's kind of just my process for all beers now. Like most things in homebrew, I took away the bits and pieces that seemed doable without adding hours and headaches to my brew day, but I didn't incorporate all of the things LoDo purists recommend.

 

[beervoid]

This is a very controversial topic in homebrewing right now. I think a lot of people do what I and Dgallo describe - avoid unnecessary oxidation on the hot side. If you want to follow the total LoDo process from start to finish it is a labor and equipment intensive process. I pre-treat my water (you can do this by boiling it to drive off oxygen or use yeast and sugar to let the yeast scavenge the oxygen available in your mash and sparge water. I also avoid any kind of splashing or agitation during mash or sparge. I also switched to adding my grain to my mash tun and underletting my mash water to avoid agitation during the mash.

I like the results, but it could be all in my head. It's been helpful for delicate beers like lager, but it's kind of just my process for all beers now. Like most things in homebrew, I took away the bits and pieces that seemed doable without adding hours and headaches to my brew day, but I didn't incorporate all of the things LoDo purists recommend.

A Belgium brewer once told most oxygen goes out already by just heating the mash water.
Never looked into the science of this

 

[jordanfrenzy]

A Belgium brewer once told most oxygen goes out already by just heating the mash water.
Never looked into the science of this

There was a famous PDF from German brewers describing the entire LoDo process from grain to glass that came out a few years ago. It is intense and a lot of it hard to do on the homebrew scale. It launched about a million arguments. I can't speak to the science either way but some of it certainly makes some sense.

 

[DrGMG]

Doesn't oxidation take days to weeks? I know that if you leave a hazy beer on a counter, open, it'll oxidize by the next day, but that's due to hops, not grains. I would imagine the mash taking a lot longer to oxidize than a hoppy beer.

 

[Dgallo]

Doesn't oxidation take days to weeks? I know that if you leave a hazy beer on a counter, open, it'll oxidize by the next day, but that's due to hops, not grains. I would imagine the mash taking a lot longer to oxidize than a hoppy beer.

The temperature of the mash is a catalyst and greatly increases the speed of the reaction. Your also recirculating in some capacity during the mash/sparge causing splashing allowing increased oxygen to dissolve

Again, I do not take a full LODO approach but I do avoid any unnecessary o2 ingest, especially with lagers and delicate ales

 

[palmtrees]

I started doing the yeast scavenging method last year after watching some YouTube videos about it. I prep my mash water the night before and drop in some bread yeast and sugar, which theoretically scavenge all the oxygen in the water. Then I heat and mash in when I wake up, and I try to avoid any splashing until the wort has cooled and goes into the fermenter. I can't say I have noticed a ton of difference, but I was also implementing a lot of methods to avoid oxidation simultaneously, so it's hard to tease things out. It adds about thirty seconds to my brewing process, so I figure it's worth it and certainly isn't hurting anything.

 

[Redhouse Brewing]

Doesn’t campden tablets do the same thing as yeast/sugar? I treat my water with campden the night before to rid chlorine and/or chloramine and get the added benefit of eliminating oxygen - so I’ve read.

 

[InspectorJon]

I want to say LODO is a false religion...

But the LODO folks are likely to start an unfriendly debate and we are not suppose to talk about religion so let's pretend I did not say that.

 

[CascadesBrewer]

Doesn’t campden tablets do the same thing as yeast/sugar? I treat my water with campden the night before to rid chlorine and/or chloramine and get the added benefit of eliminating oxygen - so I’ve read.

Probably not the thread to debate full LODO brewing...but I have seen plenty of anecdotal evidence of adding ascorbic acid to the mash extending the shelf life of beers like Hazy IPAs. I question a little if this is true and wonder how it might work. It does make me wonder if adding campden/metabisulfite into the mash has a similar impact. If so, at what dose? For a 5 gallon batch with ~8 gallons of water, I will use between 1 and 0.5 tablet.

Using ascorbic acid and metabisulfite, potentially in the mash, when dry hopping and/or when packaging, is something I want to play around with. Though with my process, I don't notice any oxidation issues in my hazies. The one batch I did try adding ascorbic acid into the mash and when dry hopping, the batch had issues that are likely not related to the use of ascorbic acid. It was enough for me to not try using ascorbic acid for the next few batches, just to eliminate that as a variable.

For those not aware, there is a forum (not very active) with some good threads addressing LODO topics: Low Oxygen Brewing

 

[ihavenonickname]

The other helpful and practical resource on LODO is “the m0dern brewh0use” website for those who aren't familiar. Similar to others I take some measured precautions to reduce oxidation... because it might help, but I don't at all think I couldn't skip all these steps and still make the best beer possible.

I often add k meta 0.2 grams to mash water which certainly reduces DO - I was convinced of this actually doing something when I saw this guy use a DO meter, take measurements and watched the DO go down. This also convinced me to add a little k meta when I dry hop. Im my mind these things are just cheap easy insurance in case I screw up my process. My most recent hazy I also added Ascorbic Acid to the mash because who likes brown apples or guacamole! Its often added to hose packaged foods so why not give it a shot.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

This article on thiols from malts may be of interest if anyone has a subscription (or can be bothered to subscribe and then cancel within 30 days... )

https://brewingindustryguide.com/what-malt-can-do-for-your-thiols/

 

[wepeeler]

I know I'm late to the party - I've never used Cascade hops! SO, I brewed up a simple Cascade Pale Ale based off @Dgallo recipe American IPA - Base Pale Ale Recipe for Single hop Beers That should be ready in about 2 weeks. Smelled absolutely wonderful in the kettle.

I got the itch to incorporate Cascade into a NEIPA late Saturday night, so I slapped together a grist - 2 Row, Pilsner, White Wheat, Flaked Wheat. Citra Simcoe Cascade 1:1:1. 40 IBU. Brewed this Sunday morning. Might have been the best smelling kettle ever. Pitched Coastal Haze and set to 68F, and it's ripping right now. Basement smells wonderful! Orange and grapefruit peels!

 

[Langerz]

Whew...as a new brewer I have to say probably my greatest accomplishment as a brewer so far was making it through this whole thread I've had a few batches of west coast IPAs I've been happy with but have been waiting to tackle an NEIPA. Thanks to everyone in this thread I think I have really good background. I'm not sure my process/equipment is quite up to where I need it to be but I am a big NEIPA fan and the itch to brew one is getting too strong. I just finished another brew this weekend and have one more planned before the NEIPA, but want to start getting things on order to do this in a few weeks. I think I gleaned enough from the thread to put together a good recipe/plan, but thought I would post it here for a double check.

I'm going to shoot for a 6.5 gal batch with only 5-5.5 in the fermenter. Past batches I've got a lot of trub in the fermenter and hoping the bigger batch keeps me from being tempted to try to get every possible ounce out of my kettle.

Grains:
70% 2 Row Pale Malt
13.3% Oat Malt
13.3% Wheat Malt
3.3% Honey Malt

Total grain ~21.3 lbs. Calculator says OG 1.080 and SRM of 6.1.

Hops:
Commercial versions I love strata/I7/citra combos so
1 oz magnum in boil (25.5 IBU)
2 ounces of both strata and Idaho#7 in whirlpool
3 ounces citra, 3 ounces strata and 1.5 ounces of Idaho#7 in dry hop

Water:
Start with RO and target Ca 100, Mg 9, Na 83, Cl 225, SO4 130

I'm going to try a step mash the best I can (not easy with setup)
~146 for 40 min
~159 for 40 min
~170 for 10 min
If that fails I'll probably just shoot for 156-158 for an hour

Yeast - my intent is to follow the post that said mix one package or Verdant and one of NE. One question here there was quite a bit of discussion of under pitching - in that case should I do something like a half pack of each?

I don't have good fermentation temp control yet (next on my list but probably not in time for this one) but read a bit about poor man's methods and going to try to at least do as close to...
Ferment in mid 60s and letting it rise to mid 70s and move to warmer area for end
Soft crash the best I can for 2 days
Dry hop "cooler"
Cold crash the best I can for a day

I am not set up for kegging yet and I'm sure I'm going to be told I'm going to have oxidation problems. I also know that is likely the case, but still need to give it a try. I did read up as much as I can from the few that claim they can bottle this successfully. Planning to bottle direct from fermenter, use tabs to carb, limited headspace, purge headspace and then cap immediately. I've done some heavily hopped WC IPAs that was with success.

Any feedback is welcome and thanks again for all the insights in this thread.

 

[wepeeler]

Whew...as a new brewer I have to say probably my greatest accomplishment as a brewer so far was making it through this whole thread I've had a few batches of west coast IPAs I've been happy with but have been waiting to tackle an NEIPA. Thanks to everyone in this thread I think I have really good background. I'm not sure my process/equipment is quite up to where I need it to be but I am a big NEIPA fan and the itch to brew one is getting too strong. I just finished another brew this weekend and have one more planned before the NEIPA, but want to start getting things on order to do this in a few weeks. I think I gleaned enough from the thread to put together a good recipe/plan, but thought I would post it here for a double check.

I'm going to shoot for a 6.5 gal batch with only 5-5.5 in the fermenter. Past batches I've got a lot of trub in the fermenter and hoping the bigger batch keeps me from being tempted to try to get every possible ounce out of my kettle.

Grains:
70% 2 Row Pale Malt
13.3% Oat Malt
13.3% Wheat Malt
3.3% Honey Malt

Total grain ~21.3 lbs. Calculator says OG 1.080 and SRM of 6.1.

Hops:
Commercial versions I love strata/I7/citra combos so
1 oz magnum in boil (25.5 IBU)
2 ounces of both strata and Idaho#7 in whirlpool
3 ounces citra, 3 ounces strata and 1.5 ounces of Idaho#7 in dry hop

Water:
Start with RO and target Ca 100, Mg 9, Na 83, Cl 225, SO4 130

I'm going to try a step mash the best I can (not easy with setup)
~146 for 40 min
~159 for 40 min
~170 for 10 min
If that fails I'll probably just shoot for 156-158 for an hour

Yeast - my intent is to follow the post that said mix one package or Verdant and one of NE. One question here there was quite a bit of discussion of under pitching - in that case should I do something like a half pack of each?

I don't have good fermentation temp control yet (next on my list but probably not in time for this one) but read a bit about poor man's methods and going to try to at least do as close to...
Ferment in mid 60s and letting it rise to mid 70s and move to warmer area for end
Soft crash the best I can for 2 days
Dry hop "cooler"
Cold crash the best I can for a day

I am not set up for kegging yet and I'm sure I'm going to be told I'm going to have oxidation problems. I also know that is likely the case, but still need to give it a try. I did read up as much as I can from the few that claim they can bottle this successfully. Planning to bottle direct from fermenter, use tabs to carb, limited headspace, purge headspace and then cap immediately. I've done some heavily hopped WC IPAs that was with success.

Any feedback is welcome and thanks again for all the insights in this thread.

Without kegging, you're going to have to pay a lot of attention when bottling. You're going to get O2 pickup (it's unavoidable when bottling from the fermenter), and that's a no no for this style. Personally, I wouldn't even try it, but that's up to you.

Shoot for 6-6.5 gal into the fermenter. You're going to lose a lot of beer from absorption. If you get 5 gal into the fermenter, you're going to end up with like 4 gal of finished product.

I would eliminate the Magnum addition. You could do Columbus a little later in the boil if you're trying to up the IBU. Then do a late 5-10 min addition, then a WP addition 20-25 min.

I'd also drop the honey malt to about 2.5% max and mash 152F.

Your fermentation schedule sounds ok.

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

I Agree with @wepeeler for the honey malt lower to 2.5% as for his suggestion on the hop addition, that's really a personal preference, I still dona small 60 addition of simcoe but I've done both ways several times and it's what I prefer.

I don't bottle .. really anything unless I'm doing a small batch of some sort. That said, no oxygen post fermentation is definitely the biggest concern to this style. If you do brew and bottle it maybe just plan on a week long bender so you drink it all before oxidation sets in.. haha but in all seriousness, good luck and have fun with it, but it will test your patience.

Cheers!

 

[Dgallo]

Whew...as a new brewer I have to say probably my greatest accomplishment as a brewer so far was making it through this whole thread I've had a few batches of west coast IPAs I've been happy with but have been waiting to tackle an NEIPA. Thanks to everyone in this thread I think I have really good background. I'm not sure my process/equipment is quite up to where I need it to be but I am a big NEIPA fan and the itch to brew one is getting too strong. I just finished another brew this weekend and have one more planned before the NEIPA, but want to start getting things on order to do this in a few weeks. I think I gleaned enough from the thread to put together a good recipe/plan, but thought I would post it here for a double check.

I'm going to shoot for a 6.5 gal batch with only 5-5.5 in the fermenter. Past batches I've got a lot of trub in the fermenter and hoping the bigger batch keeps me from being tempted to try to get every possible ounce out of my kettle.

Grains:
70% 2 Row Pale Malt
13.3% Oat Malt
13.3% Wheat Malt
3.3% Honey Malt

Total grain ~21.3 lbs. Calculator says OG 1.080 and SRM of 6.1.

Hops:
Commercial versions I love strata/I7/citra combos so
1 oz magnum in boil (25.5 IBU)
2 ounces of both strata and Idaho#7 in whirlpool
3 ounces citra, 3 ounces strata and 1.5 ounces of Idaho#7 in dry hop

Water:
Start with RO and target Ca 100, Mg 9, Na 83, Cl 225, SO4 130

I'm going to try a step mash the best I can (not easy with setup)
~146 for 40 min
~159 for 40 min
~170 for 10 min
If that fails I'll probably just shoot for 156-158 for an hour

Yeast - my intent is to follow the post that said mix one package or Verdant and one of NE. One question here there was quite a bit of discussion of under pitching - in that case should I do something like a half pack of each?

I don't have good fermentation temp control yet (next on my list but probably not in time for this one) but read a bit about poor man's methods and going to try to at least do as close to...
Ferment in mid 60s and letting it rise to mid 70s and move to warmer area for end
Soft crash the best I can for 2 days
Dry hop "cooler"
Cold crash the best I can for a day

I am not set up for kegging yet and I'm sure I'm going to be told I'm going to have oxidation problems. I also know that is likely the case, but still need to give it a try. I did read up as much as I can from the few that claim they can bottle this successfully. Planning to bottle direct from fermenter, use tabs to carb, limited headspace, purge headspace and then cap immediately. I've done some heavily hopped WC IPAs that was with success.

Any feedback is welcome and thanks again for all the insights in this thread.

Recipe looks fine. I don’t see a need to drop your honey malt. I use 3% often and the difference of you droping your 3.3 % to 2.5% is literally just about 2 oz of honey malt, which really won’t make any difference to color or flavor.

Your biggest issue will be bottling as @wepeeler stated. It will be a pain in the a$$. Some people claim to be really successful with bottling NEIPAS(I’m not quite convinced, I just feel they have little reference of the difference as they only bottle). I think there are some threads on here that will provide the best process for bottling a NEIPA

 

[agentbud]

Whew...as a new brewer I have to say probably my greatest accomplishment as a brewer so far was making it through this whole thread I've had a few batches of west coast IPAs I've been happy with but have been waiting to tackle an NEIPA. Thanks to everyone in this thread I think I have really good background. I'm not sure my process/equipment is quite up to where I need it to be but I am a big NEIPA fan and the itch to brew one is getting too strong. I just finished another brew this weekend and have one more planned before the NEIPA, but want to start getting things on order to do this in a few weeks. I think I gleaned enough from the thread to put together a good recipe/plan, but thought I would post it here for a double check.

I'm going to shoot for a 6.5 gal batch with only 5-5.5 in the fermenter. Past batches I've got a lot of trub in the fermenter and hoping the bigger batch keeps me from being tempted to try to get every possible ounce out of my kettle.

Grains:
70% 2 Row Pale Malt
13.3% Oat Malt
13.3% Wheat Malt
3.3% Honey Malt

Total grain ~21.3 lbs. Calculator says OG 1.080 and SRM of 6.1.

Hops:
Commercial versions I love strata/I7/citra combos so
1 oz magnum in boil (25.5 IBU)
2 ounces of both strata and Idaho#7 in whirlpool
3 ounces citra, 3 ounces strata and 1.5 ounces of Idaho#7 in dry hop

Water:
Start with RO and target Ca 100, Mg 9, Na 83, Cl 225, SO4 130

I'm going to try a step mash the best I can (not easy with setup)
~146 for 40 min
~159 for 40 min
~170 for 10 min
If that fails I'll probably just shoot for 156-158 for an hour

Yeast - my intent is to follow the post that said mix one package or Verdant and one of NE. One question here there was quite a bit of discussion of under pitching - in that case should I do something like a half pack of each?

I don't have good fermentation temp control yet (next on my list but probably not in time for this one) but read a bit about poor man's methods and going to try to at least do as close to...
Ferment in mid 60s and letting it rise to mid 70s and move to warmer area for end
Soft crash the best I can for 2 days
Dry hop "cooler"
Cold crash the best I can for a day

I am not set up for kegging yet and I'm sure I'm going to be told I'm going to have oxidation problems. I also know that is likely the case, but still need to give it a try. I did read up as much as I can from the few that claim they can bottle this successfully. Planning to bottle direct from fermenter, use tabs to carb, limited headspace, purge headspace and then cap immediately. I've done some heavily hopped WC IPAs that was with success.

Any feedback is welcome and thanks again for all the insights in this thread.

Per Lallemand's yeast calculator, for 1.080 OG you would need 39g of NE or 18g of Verdant so definitely don't cut it in half. If anything, you may need more than one of each. Personally I would forgo the step and just do a single infusion at around 153-154 - but that's just me. Other than that, I like it. send me a bottle when it's ready. Mark my word - after this brew - you will be shopping for a fermentation fridge, kegs, equipment to limit O2, etc. The bug will have bitten.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Whew...as a new brewer I have to say probably my greatest accomplishment as a brewer so far was making it through this whole thread I've had a few batches of west coast IPAs I've been happy with but have been waiting to tackle an NEIPA. Thanks to everyone in this thread I think I have really good background. I'm not sure my process/equipment is quite up to where I need it to be but I am a big NEIPA fan and the itch to brew one is getting too strong. I just finished another brew this weekend and have one more planned before the NEIPA, but want to start getting things on order to do this in a few weeks. I think I gleaned enough from the thread to put together a good recipe/plan, but thought I would post it here for a double check.

I'm going to shoot for a 6.5 gal batch with only 5-5.5 in the fermenter. Past batches I've got a lot of trub in the fermenter and hoping the bigger batch keeps me from being tempted to try to get every possible ounce out of my kettle.

Grains:
70% 2 Row Pale Malt
13.3% Oat Malt
13.3% Wheat Malt
3.3% Honey Malt

Total grain ~21.3 lbs. Calculator says OG 1.080 and SRM of 6.1.

Hops:
Commercial versions I love strata/I7/citra combos so
1 oz magnum in boil (25.5 IBU)
2 ounces of both strata and Idaho#7 in whirlpool
3 ounces citra, 3 ounces strata and 1.5 ounces of Idaho#7 in dry hop

Water:
Start with RO and target Ca 100, Mg 9, Na 83, Cl 225, SO4 130

I'm going to try a step mash the best I can (not easy with setup)
~146 for 40 min
~159 for 40 min
~170 for 10 min
If that fails I'll probably just shoot for 156-158 for an hour

Yeast - my intent is to follow the post that said mix one package or Verdant and one of NE. One question here there was quite a bit of discussion of under pitching - in that case should I do something like a half pack of each?

I don't have good fermentation temp control yet (next on my list but probably not in time for this one) but read a bit about poor man's methods and going to try to at least do as close to...
Ferment in mid 60s and letting it rise to mid 70s and move to warmer area for end
Soft crash the best I can for 2 days
Dry hop "cooler"
Cold crash the best I can for a day

I am not set up for kegging yet and I'm sure I'm going to be told I'm going to have oxidation problems. I also know that is likely the case, but still need to give it a try. I did read up as much as I can from the few that claim they can bottle this successfully. Planning to bottle direct from fermenter, use tabs to carb, limited headspace, purge headspace and then cap immediately. I've done some heavily hopped WC IPAs that was with success.

Any feedback is welcome and thanks again for all the insights in this thread.

Without knowing your equipment you are using, I would say that cold crashing without O2 intake will be key. Do you have the means to drop the temps while adding CO2 to avoid O2 uptake? Aside from O2 uptake during bottling (as others have mentioned), Id say that if you can't soft crash with CO2 on hand....you might run into problems. You said you didn't have temp control yet so if you can add some info on how you are crashing the beer with the equipment on hand that might help us to give better advise for you on how best to lower your temps with minimal O2 uptake.

 

[Langerz]

I know I’ll come back and you can all say I told you so related to oxidation. Actually it won’t be I told you so since I already know. I’ll get the right equipment before long. One of the reasons I didn’t get into brewing a while ago is once I jump in I go all in and want everything. I’ve already spent a bunch and this is just me reining myself in a bit.

At the same time I definitely have the try an NEIPA itch and I’ll honestly be happy this round if I make a decent NEIPA that only lasts a few days and then fix that in the future.

 

[Langerz]

Without knowing your equipment you are using, I would say that cold crashing without O2 intake will be key. Do you have the means to drop the temps while adding CO2 to avoid O2 uptake? Aside from O2 uptake during bottling (as others have mentioned), Id say that if you can't soft crash with CO2 on hand....you might run into problems. You said you didn't have temp control yet so if you can add some info on how you are crashing the beer with the equipment on hand that might help us to give better advise for you on how best to lower your temps with minimal O2 uptake.

I do have CO2 and at a minimum can fill a balloon to put on the airlock. Temp will be a bit tougher but temps are still cool enough here to get me close to a soft crash in a couple places I have available that I can get in the ball park. I have a couple areas that should be close most of the day. I can try something like a swamp cooler to keep it more steady. It’s not perfect. Maybe I’ll just name this Redneck IPA. I ferment in a big mouth bubbler and might be able to get it in my beer fridge too. I’ll check that when the current batch is out of it.