New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Your beer looks great. Love everything about that combo. I love that yeast too. I’ve never had it get Belgian like though. I wonder what it was that caused it as it’s a Conan and Sac trios blend. Interesting never the less
I've used sacc trois on its own once, fermented in the mid 70's and it was way too estery for my taste. I might be a bit sensitive too it, I've had commercial versions with a hint of bubblegum and I don't care for it. Dry Hop fermented cool turned out great though. I'll probably stick with Juice out of habit, but Dry Hop is a great alternative.
 
Has anyone tried the soft crash and then dry hop method with unconventional hops, such as an English IPA or something? Is it better to add german or english dry hops at warmer temps during fermentation or does it work well with the soft crash method?
 
Got my keg of NEIPA into my keezer today, but no beer came out. Ended up taking the post off and clearing it to get a sample - and it's one of my best beers to date. Hazy, super hoppy nose, but juicy and tropical with only a hint of bitter that really balances the sweetness.

However it looks like my keg post is semi-clogged again because the pour is really slow and almost all foam. What do you guys do to prevent and/or deal with this? I'll probably have to clear it again, but I really don't want to have to keep clearing out the liquid post to drink my beer. I worry about how much oxygen might be getting in when I do.
 
Got my keg of NEIPA into my keezer today, but no beer came out. Ended up taking the post off and clearing it to get a sample - and it's one of my best beers to date. Hazy, super hoppy nose, but juicy and tropical with only a hint of bitter that really balances the sweetness.

However it looks like my keg post is semi-clogged again because the pour is really slow and almost all foam. What do you guys do to prevent and/or deal with this? I'll probably have to clear it again, but I really don't want to have to keep clearing out the liquid post to drink my beer. I worry about how much oxygen might be getting in when I do.
Do you cold crash hard before kegging? This definitely helps IMO. Ive never had a clogged keg post though. Do you have hops actually in the keg? More details please.
 
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Got my keg of NEIPA into my keezer today, but no beer came out. Ended up taking the post off and clearing it to get a sample - and it's one of my best beers to date. Hazy, super hoppy nose, but juicy and tropical with only a hint of bitter that really balances the sweetness.

However it looks like my keg post is semi-clogged again because the pour is really slow and almost all foam. What do you guys do to prevent and/or deal with this? I'll probably have to clear it again, but I really don't want to have to keep clearing out the liquid post to drink my beer. I worry about how much oxygen might be getting in when I do.
A floating dip tube is your best friend for these beers.
 
Do you cold crash hard before kegging? This definitely helps IMO. Ive never had a clogged keg post though. Do you have hops actually in the keg? More details please.
Yes, I cold crashed for 3 days before kegging, kegged, then let the keg cold condition for a week. No added hops during the kegging process. Couldn't get more than a tiny bit at first and then nothing. Took off the dip tube post and there was some pretty thick matter there. Rinsed it and got about 1/4 beer before it slowed down to a crawl again.
 
Sounds like it's still drawing sludge off the bottom. Dang.

For this round you may have to keep putzing with it and hope it stops. For the next round yeah taking the beer off the top or what I did was bend the dip tube a bit over my leg and effectively lift it up another 1/2" or so. You leave some beer behind but no more sludge issues.
 
+ @aaronm13, but also add an inexpensive filter on the floating dip tube. If needed, you can hook up the gas to the serving line and give a couple quick bursts of Co2 to clean out the filter. Works great!

After trying several different floating dip tubes, I settled on Ball and Keg’s version (link below).
https://www.ballandkeg.com/products/balls-up-floating-dip-tube
https://www.morebeer.com/products/floating-dip-tube-filter-attachment.html
Some have given the Clear Beer system good reviews.
https://clearbeerdraughtsystem.com/product/clear-beer-draught-system/
 
Yes, I cold crashed for 3 days before kegging, kegged, then let the keg cold condition for a week. No added hops during the kegging process. Couldn't get more than a tiny bit at first and then nothing. Took off the dip tube post and there was some pretty thick matter there. Rinsed it and got about 1/4 beer before it slowed down to a crawl again.
Have you cleaned your ballocks to your tap? Anyway that propet is clogged
 
Luckily, the beer is great
CE0A5383-7CDC-4AC5-936C-457B8F074FB5.jpeg
 
Yep, that's the first thing I cleaned as it's the easiest to get at. It's definitely the spring (poppet?) of the post itself getting
You can always removed the spring. Those who make those heavily fruit purée sours do that often to get able to pour
 
You can always removed the spring. Those who make those heavily fruit purée sours do that often to get able to pour

True, the spring and poppet at the keg itself, and then you'll also have the parts at the fitting that goes onto it - the spring and poppet inside there too. Otherwise I don't think it'll be "open" on that end.
 
Has anyone here had any Root + Branch hazies? I've never had anything from them, but the pics they post of their beers look so thick and chewy. Looking at reviews, people seem to love them. They mention about using oat malt, flaked oats, and wheat in all their hazies. In one post I saw them say they used nearly 70% of both oats and wheat in one of their beers. I whipped up a recipe in BeerSmith using 35% Oat Malt, 15% Flaked Oats, and 15% Raw Wheat. The rest of the grist (35%) is Rahr 2-Row. I wanted to make sure it would be possible to convert all the oats and wheat so I did a diastatic power calculation and it lands in the mid to high 40's L. I think the general rule of thumb is that you want atleast 30L.
 
Has anyone here had any Root + Branch hazies? I've never had anything from them, but the pics they post of their beers look so thick and chewy. Looking at reviews, people seem to love them. They mention about using oat malt, flaked oats, and wheat in all their hazies. In one post I saw them say they used nearly 70% of both oats and wheat in one of their beers. I whipped up a recipe in BeerSmith using 35% Oat Malt, 15% Flaked Oats, and 15% Raw Wheat. The rest of the grist (35%) is Rahr 2-Row. I wanted to make sure it would be possible to convert all the oats and wheat so I did a diastatic power calculation and it lands in the mid to high 40's L. I think the general rule of thumb is that you want atleast 30L.
Bought 2 cans just after Christmas but haven't tried them yet. Payed a pretty penny for them so they better be good. Probably works out around $20 each.
 
I've been meaning to get over there. I'm only 30-40 minutes away but haven't managed to stop there yet. I've heard great things.
 
Has anyone here had any Root + Branch hazies? I've never had anything from them, but the pics they post of their beers look so thick and chewy. Looking at reviews, people seem to love them. They mention about using oat malt, flaked oats, and wheat in all their hazies. In one post I saw them say they used nearly 70% of both oats and wheat in one of their beers. I whipped up a recipe in BeerSmith using 35% Oat Malt, 15% Flaked Oats, and 15% Raw Wheat. The rest of the grist (35%) is Rahr 2-Row. I wanted to make sure it would be possible to convert all the oats and wheat so I did a diastatic power calculation and it lands in the mid to high 40's L. I think the general rule of thumb is that you want atleast 30L.
Root and Branch is Phenomenal. Absolutely top notch. Them, Troon, Fidens, Monkish, etc…all in the same class.
 
Had these last night, bad lighting in the second picture no issue with oxidation View attachment 810605View attachment 810604
Yup. I’ve had tons of it over the past five or six months. Obviously some of them are better than others, but overall they’re putting out some of the best murky IPAs right now. I had a triple IPA collab from them with the veil called bloodless 1, and it was insane. I think it’s like 4.7 on untapped or something crazy. But yeah, I’m a fan.

This: Bloodless I - Root + Branch Brewing - Untappd
 
Yup. I’ve had tons of it over the past five or six months. Obviously some of them are better than others, but overall they’re putting out some of the best murky IPAs right now. I had a triple IPA collab from them with the veil called bloodless 1, and it was insane. I think it’s like 4.7 on untapped or something crazy. But yeah, I’m a fan.

This: Bloodless I - Root + Branch Brewing - Untappd
These were definitely solid but not as good as other stuff I’ve had from them. Def put out some true 4.5+ stuff
 
I appreciate the feedback on the Root + Branch beers. I'm an apartment brewer, so I only brew 2 gallon batches. My efficiency sucks, so that's why this may not jive if you plug it into your brewing software. Here's what I was thinking for a first attempt Root Branch'esque ipa:

2 gallon batch size - BIAB
Mash Temp: 155F
Mash Length: 60min.
Boil Length: 30min.
OG: 1.071 (estimated)
FG: 1.018 (estimated)
IBU's: 14.2
  • 2# 14.4oz. Rahr 2-Row (35%)
  • 2# 14.4oz. CMC Oat Malt (35%)
  • 1# 3.9oz. Flaked Oats (15%)
  • 1# 3.9oz. Briess Raw White Wheat (15%)
  • 1oz. Citra (Whirlpool 160-170F for 30min.)
  • 1oz. Mosaic (Whirlpool 160-170F for 30min.)
  • Imperial Juice yeast
  • 4oz. Citra (post ferm, post soft crash dry hop for 2 days)
  • 2oz. Galaxy '22 (post ferm, post soft crash dry hop for 2 days)

Feel free to tear this recipe apart or give me some advice.
 
I appreciate the feedback on the Root + Branch beers. I'm an apartment brewer, so I only brew 2 gallon batches. My efficiency sucks, so that's why this may not jive if you plug it into your brewing software. Here's what I was thinking for a first attempt Root Branch'esque ipa:

2 gallon batch size - BIAB
Mash Temp: 155F
Mash Length: 60min.
Boil Length: 30min.
OG: 1.071 (estimated)
FG: 1.018 (estimated)
IBU's: 14.2
  • 2# 14.4oz. Rahr 2-Row (35%)
  • 2# 14.4oz. CMC Oat Malt (35%)
  • 1# 3.9oz. Flaked Oats (15%)
  • 1# 3.9oz. Briess Raw White Wheat (15%)
  • 1oz. Citra (Whirlpool 160-170F for 30min.)
  • 1oz. Mosaic (Whirlpool 160-170F for 30min.)
  • Imperial Juice yeast
  • 4oz. Citra (post ferm, post soft crash dry hop for 2 days)
  • 2oz. Galaxy '22 (post ferm, post soft crash dry hop for 2 days)

Feel free to tear this recipe apart or give me some advice.
I never done an NEIPA with only 35% base malt and 65% oats/wheat. But if thats your jam, go for it. But I definitely would add some IBUs to this. Adding some late hops to the boil at least (15,10, and/or 5minute additions) would really help with this IMHO. Don't be afraid of these beers being too bitter at all. IBUs in the 30s or even 40s would help. I think. As it is your dry hop is 75% of total hop bill. Add some bitterness other than the WP.
 
I appreciate the feedback on the Root + Branch beers. I'm an apartment brewer, so I only brew 2 gallon batches. My efficiency sucks, so that's why this may not jive if you plug it into your brewing software. Here's what I was thinking for a first attempt Root Branch'esque ipa:

2 gallon batch size - BIAB
Mash Temp: 155F
Mash Length: 60min.
Boil Length: 30min.
OG: 1.071 (estimated)
FG: 1.018 (estimated)
IBU's: 14.2
  • 2# 14.4oz. Rahr 2-Row (35%)
  • 2# 14.4oz. CMC Oat Malt (35%)
  • 1# 3.9oz. Flaked Oats (15%)
  • 1# 3.9oz. Briess Raw White Wheat (15%)
  • 1oz. Citra (Whirlpool 160-170F for 30min.)
  • 1oz. Mosaic (Whirlpool 160-170F for 30min.)
  • Imperial Juice yeast
  • 4oz. Citra (post ferm, post soft crash dry hop for 2 days)
  • 2oz. Galaxy '22 (post ferm, post soft crash dry hop for 2 days)

Feel free to tear this recipe apart or give me some advice.
Looks alright to me but that’s a hearty t90 dryhop for a single Single ipa, I’d just up the gravity to 1080 ish and make it a double and your better in balanced
 
I like
I never done an NEIPA with only 35% base malt and 65% oats/wheat. But if thats your jam, go for it. But I definitely would add some IBUs to this. Adding some late hops to the boil at least (15,10, and/or 5minute additions) would really help with this IMHO. Don't be afraid of these beers being too bitter at all. IBUs in the 30s or even 40s would help. I think. As it is your dry hop is 75% of total hop bill. Add some bitterness other than the WP.
Yeah, I think 30 IBUs is a good spot to shoot for
 
I never done an NEIPA with only 35% base malt and 65% oats/wheat. But if thats your jam, go for it. But I definitely would add some IBUs to this. Adding some late hops to the boil at least (15,10, and/or 5minute additions) would really help with this IMHO. Don't be afraid of these beers being too bitter at all. IBUs in the 30s or even 40s would help. I think. As it is your dry hop is 75% of total hop bill. Add some bitterness other than the WP.
Wheat can theoretically be thought of as a base malt. It’s got go d power and ppg
 
Not sure what your process is, but it’s going to be real gummy. I made a beer a few years ago that was 1/3 two row, 1/3 white wheat, and 1/3 oat malt, and it didn’t really come out exactly how I was hoping. Not to say that yours won’t come out great, but I never tried it again… I doubt that root and branch is consistently using 70% wheat/oats in their beers, but it’s always fun to experiment and try new things. Let us know how it turns out.
 
Was trying to figure out the hops used in TH Haze. That beer IMHO has the best combination of hops used in the right ratios on the hot side and cold side.

I’ve had it every year since 2018 and it’s still killer each time.

Feel like it’s close to 100 IBU - staggered throughout the boil with a large WP. Dry hop I’m thinking is around 1.5 oz/gal range.

Just don’t know what the hop combination is
 
Was trying to figure out the hops used in TH Haze. That beer IMHO has the best combination of hops used in the right ratios on the hot side and cold side.

I’ve had it every year since 2018 and it’s still killer each time.

Feel like it’s close to 100 IBU - staggered throughout the boil with a large WP. Dry hop I’m thinking is around 1.5 oz/gal range.

Just don’t know what the hop combination is
Green is rumored to be Galaxy/Amarillo

Haze I believe is either;
Mosaic Amarillo Galaxy
Citra mosaic Amarillo
 
Was trying to figure out the hops used in TH Haze. That beer IMHO has the best combination of hops used in the right ratios on the hot side and cold side.

I’ve had it every year since 2018 and it’s still killer each time.

Feel like it’s close to 100 IBU - staggered throughout the boil with a large WP. Dry hop I’m thinking is around 1.5 oz/gal range.

Just don’t know what the hop combination is

A few weeks ago Nate posted a poll on Instagram asking folks for the total amount of dry hops for one of their 30bbl IPA's, I believe it was Very Green. The right answer ended up being at ~4+ lbs/bbl, which surprised me.

Especially most of the recipes showing that Julius started out much lower this was a bit of a surprise, but let's be honest: dry hop quantities have been going up ever since NEIPA came around.
 
A few weeks ago Nate posted a poll on Instagram asking folks for the total amount of dry hops for one of their 30bbl IPA's, I believe it was Very Green. The right answer ended up being at ~4+ lbs/bbl, which surprised me.

Especially most of the recipes showing that Julius started out much lower this was a bit of a surprise, but let's be honest: dry hop quantities have been going up ever since NEIPA came around.
That is very surprising. It would be interesting to know what they consider the 30 bbl. Is it how much they knocked out? Or is it how much went into the brite tank? I would imagine it is the volume at knockout.
 
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There's an obvious comparison with what happened when Cloudwater rebrewed their legendary DIPA v3 from 2016 using the knowledge they had gained in the following two years - they thought they were pushing the boat out at 9g/l dry-hop in 2016, but by 2018 24g/l was standard for them (plus centrifuging and a whole lot of other tweaks).
 
I have a DIPA in the fermenter that I brewed a week ago that I will be dry hopping with Citra T90 and Lupomax, Nectaron and Nelson. Still really undecided on amounts and ratios. I'm thinking 6oz Citra and 3oz of both the Nelson and Nectaron. How does this sound? Really want the Nelson and Nectaron to pop.

Think I'm pushing my dry hop rates a bit too high again. Really cut back for a while with around 8oz total dry hop for a DIPA but have been rising again with every brew. I did a TIPA before Christmas with 16oz dry hop and there's still a bit of hop burn and definitely getting some grassy flavors.

Just wondering what peoples go to dry hop rates are, that they are really happy with for DIPAs?
 
I have a DIPA in the fermenter that I brewed a week ago that I will be dry hopping with Citra T90 and Lupomax, Nectaron and Nelson. Still really undecided on amounts and ratios. I'm thinking 6oz Citra and 3oz of both the Nelson and Nectaron. How does this sound? Really want the Nelson and Nectaron to pop.

Think I'm pushing my dry hop rates a bit too high again. Really cut back for a while with around 8oz total dry hop for a DIPA but have been rising again with every brew. I did a TIPA before Christmas with 16oz dry hop and there's still a bit of hop burn and definitely getting some grassy flavors.

Just wondering what peoples go to dry hop rates are, that they are really happy with for DIPAs?
Just brewed one with 4 oz Nelson, 2 oz t90 Citra, 2 oz Citra lupomax and it turned out perfect. The Nelson came thru slightly and the Citra provided a solid backbone. Not necessarily “popped” but was balanced, not overdone like sometimes I get with highly hopped beers with nelson
 
Citra mosaic Amarillo
I am curious how people feel about that combo. If you were to use that combo, would you use 1/3 of each or a different ratio? The same hops on the hot side as the dry hop addition?

I ask because I have been getting better with my base NEIPA recipe and my process, but I tend to play with different hop combos and I have missed the mark a few times. A few years ago I brewed a Citra + Mosaic NEIPA that was solid, and I have been telling myself I need to cycle back and brew one with a very classic combo. I have fresh packs of Citra, Mosaic and Amarillo hops. (I also have a bunch of other American hops, nothing from Australia or NZ)
 
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