New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Noob_Brewer]

This is the typical fermentation drive I use for Conan based strains. I slightly underpitch and do a 1L starter or less based on mf date 18-24 hours prior to brew day. not specifically to boost the cell count but to insure the yeast is active at the pitch. I pitch at 68*f and let it free rise 70-72 for the first day or two. Once it starts it’s most active fermentation, usually the tailend of day two/day three, I drive it to 74-76*f depending on the specific yeast. 1318 I try not to go over 74/75. With imperial a24 It really produces esters at 76. I will hold it there until visual fermentation is over and then it slowly drop back to 70-72 and will hold it there for 48-72 hours after hitting fg to clean up any vdk or acetaldehyde.

We all know that stressing the yeast cause them to produce esters. Though I don’t have true scientific evidence why this specific drive works, my impression is that by repeatedly changing the temperature of the yeast’s environment, they must constantly adjust to the changes which causes them to be under constant stress

@Dgallo, just to be sure you under pitch this yeast correct? About .6? Reason why I ask is that my high krausen has past and its only been 25hrs. I’ve been pitching a24 at a 1.0pitch rate (OG 1.065-1.067) and typically the krausen is actually fallen by end of day three with very little bubbling activity so visually my fermentation’s seem to be done by day 4 maybe day 5 tops. I haven’t been pushing the temp drive like you. Been pitching and holding at 68, then bumping a degree each day until it gets to 71 on day 6 or 7. This batch, used same 1.0 pitch rate but decided to let active fermentation drive the temps up. I’m currently at 73 degrees and I pitched 25hrs ago. Tempted to just let it hold here until active fermentation is over just in case there is a temp differential inside the FV since my probe is on outside with styrofoam. Don’t want the fusels. Then will drop to 71 for yeast cleanup. Was just surprised to see this much of a temp rise this quickly. Thoughts? Just trying to determine if your peak fermentation activity around day 3ish is a little later because of pitch rate

 

[SanPancho]

So do you mind sharing which oils worked for you at 50%?

no, not oils. thats the problem. oils need some serious dispersement. what we used was essence. more like a water based product. wasnt thick at all. poured like water. im not sure exactly where its manufactured but i think it comes from europe, then gets repackaged in the us. but dont quote me on that.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

@echoALEia @ttuato thank you both for your comments/thoughts on the citra/I7/strata combo for my NEIPA over in the "best hop combos" thread. Ended up going with equal parts on hot side and 2:2:1 with Citra:Strata:I7 on dry hop. This came out fantastic! Been a week since kegged and today its fully carbed and it "turned" on the maturation yesterday. This is a great beer! The first pic best shows the more of the true color that I see with the naked eye. Really dig this beer - tropical flavor aroma with a nice layer of dank flavor that comes in mid way through the taste. Great aroma too - the dank/cannibis character is dominant but citrus still shines too.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Straight up Orange juice. Not really what I was going for, but also not too bad. Equal parts Amarillo/Simcoe. This is the first batch I used 2lbs white wheat and beer seems more opaque than previous batches. Has an oxidized look. I doubled my grain bill on the white wheat from 1-2lbs. It looks like I used a crap load of honey malt, however I only used 6oz.

Does this look oxidized to you guys? I ferment under pressure in a conical and do a closed transfer.

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its hard to tell in the shade lighting if its oxidized or not but does look a little like it. But you also used GP and marris otter to get a naturally orange color though right?

 

[Dgallo]

@Dgallo, just to be sure you under pitch this yeast correct? About .6? Reason why I ask is that my high krausen has past and its only been 25hrs. I’ve been pitching a24 at a 1.0pitch rate (OG 1.065-1.067) and typically the krausen is actually fallen by end of day three with very little bubbling activity so visually my fermentation’s seem to be done by day 4 maybe day 5 tops. I haven’t been pushing the temp drive like you. Been pitching and holding at 68, then bumping a degree each day until it gets to 71 on day 6 or 7. This batch, used same 1.0 pitch rate but decided to let active fermentation drive the temps up. I’m currently at 73 degrees and I pitched 25hrs ago. Tempted to just let it hold here until active fermentation is over just in case there is a temp differential inside the FV since my probe is on outside with styrofoam. Don’t want the fusels. Then will drop to 71 for yeast cleanup. Was just surprised to see this much of a temp rise this quickly. Thoughts? Just trying to determine if your peak fermentation activity around day 3ish is a little later because of pitch rate

So by under pitching I usually will have a growth phase(very minimal visual fermentation, just a thin krausen) for 24-36 hours. This is really when the major esters are being produce. Then it will take right off. I Will push the yeast to 74/75 near 48 hours to continue the stress and force more ester production. A24 is Can hand higher temps due to the a20 portion which can be fermented up to 85*f. I am confident telling you that you will not get any fusel at 76 especially if your pitching at a higher rate.

I would say hold it at 73 for the remainder of ferm, so you have a good reference point. See how the ester profile develops and then play with your temp drive and pitch rate next time. Then you can compare

 

[Noob_Brewer]

So by under pitching I usually will have a growth phase(very minimal visual fermentation, just a thin krausen) for 24-36 hours. This is really when the major esters are being produce. Then it will take right off. I Will push the yeast to 74/75 near 48 hours to continue the stress and force more ester production. A24 is Can hand higher temps due to the a20 portion which can be fermented up to 85*f. I am confident telling you that you will not get any fusel at 76 especially if your pitching at a higher rate.

I would say hold it at 73 for the remainder of ferm, so you have a good reference point. See how the ester profile develops and then play with your temp drive and pitch rate next time. Then you can compare

Thanks man! Yes I’ve put a hold at 73. It’s absolutely ripping right now. It’s a higher temp drive than previous so should be good comparison. Thanks again

 

[echoALEia]

@echoALEia @ttuato thank you both for your comments/thoughts on the citra/I7/strata combo for my NEIPA over in the "best hop combos" thread. Ended up going with equal parts on hot side and 2:2:1 with Citra:Strata:I7 on dry hop. This came out fantastic! Been a week since kegged and today its fully carbed and it "turned" on the maturation yesterday. This is a great beer! The first pic best shows the more of the true color that I see with the naked eye. Really dig this beer - tropical flavor aroma with a nice layer of dank flavor that comes in mid way through the taste. Great aroma too - the dank/cannibis character is dominant but citrus still shines too.

Beautiful! Cheers!

 

[secretlevel]

So by under pitching I usually will have a growth phase(very minimal visual fermentation, just a thin krausen) for 24-36 hours. This is really when the major esters are being produce. Then it will take right off. I Will push the yeast to 74/75 near 48 hours to continue the stress and force more ester production. A24 is Can hand higher temps due to the a20 portion which can be fermented up to 85*f. I am confident telling you that you will not get any fusel at 76 especially if your pitching at a higher rate.

I would say hold it at 73 for the remainder of ferm, so you have a good reference point. See how the ester profile develops and then play with your temp drive and pitch rate next time. Then you can compare

Very intriguing! By push to 75, do you mean free rise naturally or do you heat the fermenter?

 

[Dgallo]

Very intriguing! By push to 75, do you mean free rise naturally or do you heat the fermenter?

Depends on the time of the year. If it free raises there then perfect. If not I will use a heat source.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Straight up Orange juice. Not really what I was going for, but also not too bad. Equal parts Amarillo/Simcoe. This is the first batch I used 2lbs white wheat and beer seems more opaque than previous batches. Has an oxidized look. I doubled my grain bill on the white wheat from 1-2lbs. It looks like I used a crap load of honey malt, however I only used 6oz.

Does this look oxidized to you guys? I ferment under pressure in a conical and do a closed transfer.

View attachment 668930
View attachment 668933

I don't think it screams oxidation but it's really impossible to tell from pictures people post. Only the person drinking it would know. These are pictures of the same beer(not mine) taken seconds apart a few feet apart and this beer definitely wasn't oxidized.

 

[flintoid]

Lighting is everything, unless it's so bad it is brown. Using an iPhone 11 I can make a glass look like straight orange juice or muddled Sam Adams NEIPA (which isn't bad for the price).

I think I'm done experimenting with Cascade / Centennial in whirlpools and DH. Touches of them can change things up a bit, but they are too herbal for my taste. Centennial gives off a spice / dankness that can be a very refreshing change up. I've been trying to hack hop bill costs and it's just not there. Anything significant overpowers anything, including Galaxy and other punchy southern hemisphere hops.

 

[Dgallo]

I don't think it screams oxidation but it's really impossible to tell from pictures people post. Only the person drinking it would know. These are pictures of the same beer(not mine) taken seconds apart a few feet apart and this beer definitely wasn't oxidized.

That’s exactly why I try to always take pictures of my beer with the sunlight coming through the window and with no lights on in the background. Refraction and dark backgrounds make the beer pop

 

[jturman35]

its hard to tell in the shade lighting if its oxidized or not but does look a little like it. But you also used GP and marris otter to get a naturally orange color though right?

No, only difference with this batch is the extra 1lb of white wheat malt. I do 50/50 2 row and MO for my base grain. I have a bag of MO trying to use up. I typically do a lb of white wheat and flaked oats 6oz honey malt. This batch I bumped the white wheat to 2lbs and the beer looks more opaque and mouthfeel seems fuller even though I finished at 1.018. I usually end up around 1.020. I also adjusted sodium for the first time. Straight grapefruit/orange juice taste!

CA 90ppm
Sodium 42ppm
Sulf 99ppm
Chol 150ppm

Anyone interested in some trading shoot me a PM. I have the ability to bottle using a beer gun. I am really trying to brew the perfect NEIPA and would love feedback on my beer!

 

[ttuato]

@echoALEia @ttuato thank you both for your comments/thoughts on the citra/I7/strata combo for my NEIPA over in the "best hop combos" thread. Ended up going with equal parts on hot side and 2:2:1 with Citra:Strata:I7 on dry hop. This came out fantastic! Been a week since kegged and today its fully carbed and it "turned" on the maturation yesterday. This is a great beer! The first pic best shows the more of the true color that I see with the naked eye. Really dig this beer - tropical flavor aroma with a nice layer of dank flavor that comes in mid way through the taste. Great aroma too - the dank/cannibis character is dominant but citrus still shines too.

@Noob_Brewer glad to hear you liked it. Awesome combo. Foam & color look fabulous!

 

[Noob_Brewer]

@Noob_Brewer glad to hear you liked it. Awesome combo. Foam & color look fabulous!

Thanks @ttuato that was actually my first NEIPA where I skipped the honey malt and put in some carahell to help with foam stability and production. Worked out well.

 

[Wrinkletusk]

were you able to pick out what the terpenes did vs the incognito? or too hard using both products at same time?

now that we've reviewed dosage rates and crunched numbers the terpenes are looking like they really only offer the benefit of loss reduction. since they're priced (on average) at what the $/lb rates are for the actual hops i dont see a huge reason to use alot. loss reduction is great, but dealing with weird chemical notes isnt. makes me a bit apprehensive.

Telling the difference between the two was difficult until I neared the point of putting too much in. The terpenes presents themselves completely differently to the incognito where the incognito tastes and smell of hops, and the terpenes don't. I can't say they add a massive aroma component to the beer either, but they do add a little something.

Needless to say, I'll be going back to hops for dry hopping, with a 0.3ml dose of terpenes to each brew until the bottle is finished.

 

[jturman35]

@echoALEia @ttuato thank you both for your comments/thoughts on the citra/I7/strata combo for my NEIPA over in the "best hop combos" thread. Ended up going with equal parts on hot side and 2:2:1 with Citra:Strata:I7 on dry hop. This came out fantastic! Been a week since kegged and today its fully carbed and it "turned" on the maturation yesterday. This is a great beer! The first pic best shows the more of the true color that I see with the naked eye. Really dig this beer - tropical flavor aroma with a nice layer of dank flavor that comes in mid way through the taste. Great aroma too - the dank/cannibis character is dominant but citrus still shines too.

Care to share your grain bill?

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Care to share your grain bill?

Sure:
5.0lbs 2-row (32.8%)
5.0lbs golden promise (32.8%)
2.0lbs malted oats (13.1%)
1.5lbs flaked oats (9.8%)
1.0lb white wheat (6.6%)
0.75lb carahell (4.9%)

 

[Loud Brewing]

Sure:
5.0lbs 2-row (32.8%)
5.0lbs golden promise (32.8%)
2.0lbs malted oats (13.1%)
1.5lbs flaked oats (9.8%)
1.0lb white wheat (6.6%)
0.75lb carahell (4.9%)

I love malted oats and GP in a neipa, such a great combo

 

[stickyfinger]

wow! this soft-crash dry-hopped IPA has really changed A LOT after sitting for a few weeks. It is much less dank and out-of-the-package in character. I like it a lot more than I did!

 

[popquizkid]

On paper, they seem like they would be better but through my own experience I’m not sure. Hoping this beer and then next will help answer that. I do believe I get more hop burn with malted oats but again that only based off a few beers so not enough to say definitively.

Any issues with efficiency since switching to malted oats? I have had a pretty sizable drop in efficiency my last few batches. The last few batches all had malted oats, where I used flaked previously. Could just be coincidence and something else entirely is causing it.

 

[BeerFst]

Any issues with efficiency since switching to malted oats? I have had a pretty sizable drop in efficiency my last few batches. The last few batches all had malted oats, where I used flaked previously. Could just be coincidence and something else entirely is causing it.

malted oats are very small and very hard. you need to make sure your mill gap is small enough that its actually cracking them. I have mine set to .025" and I dont seem to have any major issues. my latest batch hit 75% as expected. I do MIAB though, so i can mill it pretty fine without much worry. That said, the oat hulls act very similar to rice hulls and should help prevent stuck runoff anyway.

 

[wepeeler]

malted oats are very small and very hard. you need to make sure your mill gap is small enough that its actually cracking them. I have mine set to .025" and I dont seem to have any major issues. my latest batch hit 75% as expected. I do MIAB though, so i can mill it pretty fine without much worry. That said, the oat hulls act very similar to rice hulls and should help prevent stuck runoff anyway.

I think you're thinking of malted wheat. It's very tiny and super hard. Malted oats have a long husk and are thin and soft.

 

[Dgallo]

Any issues with efficiency since switching to malted oats? I have had a pretty sizable drop in efficiency my last few batches. The last few batches all had malted oats, where I used flaked previously. Could just be coincidence and something else entirely is causing it.

I have efficiency drops when using malted or flaked oats over 10% of the gist. I usually drop 3% efficiency even with a good crush. as @BeerFst stated, malted oats is smaller than barley and you need to adjust your gap to get a proper crush.

 

[ttuato]

Crisp makes a hull less malted oats similar to GNO BUT not roasted as much and significantly easier to use that Thomas Fawcett Malted Oats.

• Crisp malted oat @ 1.6SRM
• GNO @ 9.1 SRM
• TF HULLED Oats @ 2.0SRM

I mash in bag so consider the following accordingly:

For Crisp Malted Oats, Flaked Oats, Wheat Malt - I put in my Vitamix blender and make it all into flour. Efficiency is much higher due to greater surface of the flour. As such, the only thing that goes through my grain mill is barley which alleviates the need to change gap.

 

[joncrook]

Hey everyone, this is my first post here on the forum. I am extremely new to brewing. I’ve only made about 10 batches. I have the Anvil Foundry 2.5 gallon set up and ordered some ingredients hoping to make a good neipa. Any feedback would be great, thanks!

5lbs — 2-Row
1lb — Flaked Oats
1lb — Oat Malt

yeast: London Ale III 1318

2oz Citra - 180° Whirlpool (20 mins)
1oz Simcoe - 180° Whirlpool (20 mins)
1oz Galaxy - 180° Whirlpool (20 mins)

day 3
1.5oz - galaxy
1/2oz - Simcoe

day 7
1.5oz - Galaxy
1/2oz - Simcoe

 

[Noob_Brewer]

So Im brewing my first NEIPA this friday with Voss Kviek. Going simcoe/amarillo route on the hops in hops of highlighting the "orange" character from amarillo along with the Voss (from what Ive read, this character shines). Anyways, since its first time using this yeast I have a couple Qs:

1) Im planning on pitching the yeast starter with the wort at 90 degrees, the starter will certainly be cooler at ~64-68 degrees ambient temp. I crash my starters the day before and let them warm up to ambient on brew day. Is this temp differential between the wort and yeast actually ok to the yeast? I know the kvieks like it warm, but this is just different from what Im used to doing i.e. pitching yeast starter at ambient temp into wort that is also about 68degrees.

2) I plan on letting this ferment in the 90s and from what I've read on here, the yeast could be completely done in ~72hrs and all cleaned up (no off-flavors) as well. I will have enough wort to take one hydro sample to check on FG. But will I really not get any off-flavors if I simply soft crash the yeast as soon as I think the yeast are done fermenting in ~3-5days? I typically give the yeast 2-3days at 70-72 after I take the hydro sample (around day 6-7) but since this is first time using Voss Kviek, Would appreciate any recommendations/comments on this strain.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Hey everyone, this is my first post here on the forum. I am extremely new to brewing. I’ve only made about 10 batches. I have the Anvil Foundry 2.5 gallon set up and ordered some ingredients hoping to make a good neipa. Any feedback would be great, thanks!

5lbs — 2-Row
1lb — Flaked Oats
1lb — Oat Malt

yeast: London Ale III 1318

2oz Citra - 180° Whirlpool (20 mins)
1oz Simcoe - 180° Whirlpool (20 mins)
1oz Galaxy - 180° Whirlpool (20 mins)

day 3
1.5oz - galaxy
1/2oz - Simcoe

day 7
1.5oz - Galaxy
1/2oz - Simcoe

Can’t speak to the volumes since I use the 10g foundry but I think you will like the malted oats flaked oats combo. I’ve done it that way and really liked the outcome. I haven’t added hops during active fermentation before but many peeps do. as long as you can minimize oxygen exposure in dry hopping overall I’m sure this would turn out well. by The way you are about 4 batches ahead of me lol.

 

[Dgallo]

So Im brewing my first NEIPA this friday with Voss Kviek. Going simcoe/amarillo route on the hops in hops of highlighting the "orange" character from amarillo along with the Voss (from what Ive read, this character shines). Anyways, since its first time using this yeast I have a couple Qs:

1) Im planning on pitching the yeast starter with the wort at 90 degrees, the starter will certainly be cooler at ~64-68 degrees ambient temp. I crash my starters the day before and let them warm up to ambient on brew day. Is this temp differential between the wort and yeast actually ok to the yeast? I know the kvieks like it warm, but this is just different from what Im used to doing i.e. pitching yeast starter at ambient temp into wort that is also about 68degrees.

2) I plan on letting this ferment in the 90s and from what I've read on here, the yeast could be completely done in ~72hrs and all cleaned up (no off-flavors) as well. I will have enough wort to take one hydro sample to check on FG. But will I really not get any off-flavors if I simply soft crash the yeast as soon as I think the yeast are done fermenting in ~3-5days? I typically give the yeast 2-3days at 70-72 after I take the hydro sample (around day 6-7) but since this is first time using Voss Kviek, Would appreciate any recommendations/comments on this strain.

No starter is really need. I literally use a tablespoon of slurry from pouch for a 5gallon batch and it hits final gravity less than 3 days. The growth stage is when esters are produced. So will a starter it won’t need to multiple much at all

 

[marchuk96]

Hey everyone, this is my first post here on the forum. I am extremely new to brewing. I’ve only made about 10 batches. I have the Anvil Foundry 2.5 gallon set up and ordered some ingredients hoping to make a good neipa. Any feedback would be great, thanks!

5lbs — 2-Row
1lb — Flaked Oats
1lb — Oat Malt

yeast: London Ale III 1318

2oz Citra - 180° Whirlpool (20 mins)
1oz Simcoe - 180° Whirlpool (20 mins)
1oz Galaxy - 180° Whirlpool (20 mins)

day 3
1.5oz - galaxy
1/2oz - Simcoe

day 7
1.5oz - Galaxy
1/2oz - Simcoe

Looks pretty damn solid to me...I typically do about an hour for the hop stand at like 150-155 with my lid on the pot periodically stirring...and I usually have some boil hops at like 2 mins left...i also dont do a bio hop any more...i wait till a few days before kegging to dry hop...im not saying this is what you should do...just that this is what i typically do and yield what i think are pretty good results... I think what you have sounds like a winner...let us know how it comes out