New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

Yakima 728
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Sorry I have been pretty negligent checking in - start of school year/coaching has me in survival mode just trying to stay caught up at work.

I currently have my post #1418 recipe on tap - but I used Kolsch yeast in it. (WL029) I had run the yeast through a Kolsch and an Alt. It is a good beer - but definitely less hazy than typical with 1318/conan/etc. Even 1272 has given me a hazier beer. Overall, the beer is good - but it comes off a touch thin/a touch to clean..... Not that a clean beer is bad - but my NEIPA tend to come off as full, and the hops are more mouth-coating. This one almost seemed like more of an "IPA Light." Nothing inherently wrong with it, but I would not say it is my favorite, and I would probably not use the yeast in it again.

I have a fresh batch of the #1418 recipe in the fermenter right now..... 1318 yeast in this one.
 
Braufessor said:
I have a fresh batch of the #1418 recipe in the fermenter right now..... 1318 yeast in this one.
Click to expand...

Mine is 8 days now with 1318. Did not do any temp control. Room stayed between 72-78. I put the bucket in water sinces it's a much better heat conductor. Going to give it 2 more days before checking. OG was 1.043...intended low abv.
 
1318 likes to start around 62-64 and end around 70-72. Primary around 74 always tasted slightly stressed to me.
 
Thanks. I'll keep that in mind as time goes on. I don't have enough experience to know what characteristics 'stressed' yeast would impart into a beer.
 
PianoMan said:
Mine is 8 days now with 1318. Did not do any temp control. Room stayed between 72-78. I put the bucket in water sinces it's a much better heat conductor. Going to give it 2 more days before checking. OG was 1.043...intended low abv.
Click to expand...

I have a batch of this recipe that was brewed 17 days ago with 1318.
66F for 5 days and resting at 69-71F. (Inside fermenter temperature)
This beast finished at 1.010 7 days after fermentation started. It's the 1st generation. I Mashed at 150. OG was 1.060
I'm kinda surprise it finished so low. (was aiming for 1.013 according to Beersmith)

It's now on cold crash and I'm kegging it this saturday.
sample taste so good. I harvested some yeast to give it 3-4 more drive.

I'm brewing this recipe again in 3 weeks with WLP644.
 
Braufessor said:
Sorry I have been pretty negligent checking in - start of school year/coaching has me in survival mode just trying to stay caught up at work.

I currently have my post #1418 recipe on tap - but I used Kolsch yeast in it. (WL029) I had run the yeast through a Kolsch and an Alt. It is a good beer - but definitely less hazy than typical with 1318/conan/etc. Even 1272 has given me a hazier beer. Overall, the beer is good - but it comes off a touch thin/a touch to clean..... Not that a clean beer is bad - but my NEIPA tend to come off as full, and the hops are more mouth-coating. This one almost seemed like more of an "IPA Light." Nothing inherently wrong with it, but I would not say it is my favorite, and I would probably not use the yeast in it again.

I have a fresh batch of the #1418 recipe in the fermenter right now..... 1318 yeast in this one.
Click to expand...

Braufessor have you tried brewing this beer with only hop bursting, or no bittering hops at 60 min?
 
Here was my first brew of this recipe (or at least similar recipe). Came out great! Better than some commercial examples of the style that I've had, and it was a hit at our block party, lots of positive comments and killed the keg before the night was over. Thanks Braufessor for the recipe!

My changes:
-Citra/Mosaic/Amarillo
-30 min boil
-additions were only:
10 min (1:1:1oz)
whirlpool @ 155F, and the two dry hops (both in primary) (all 1.33:1.33:1.33 oz)

INPUWUV.jpg
 
Beerdrinker85 said:
I'm doing no oxygen co2 transfer. If I don't cold crash I'm always clogging.

I just have to push a bottom on my controller and it's cold crash itself...
while would I don't want to?
Click to expand...

I just figured it would be a wasted extra step. I also direct transfer but I also lose bag my dry hops as well so I don't ever clog.
 
duelerx said:
Braufessor have you tried brewing this beer with only hop bursting, or no bittering hops at 60 min?
Click to expand...

I have not.... I think others have though with success. i always use .5-.75 ounces of Warrior at 60 minutes (that is in 8 gallons of wort pre boil, 6.5 gallons post boil.)
 
Braufessor said:
I have not.... I think others have though with success. i always use .5-.75 ounces of Warrior at 60 minutes (that is in 8 gallons of wort pre boil, 6.5 gallons post boil.)
Click to expand...

I brewed similar but with .5 of Magnum, next time i will try with hop bursting and keep you guys updated how it turns out.
 
I used 1318 with no temp control other than placing a wet towel over my fermentor under a ceiling fan and my beer turned out fantastic! Maybe I got lucky???

I will post pics of one later today.
 
PianoMan said:
1318 experiment continues. 10days Fermentation. NO diacetyl but an odd sense, bandaid? I did not temp control so maybe it's that. 3oz cryo hops added. Will not be reusing this yeast!😉
Click to expand...

My current batch with 1318 is on day 28 of fermentation and still going. It's kind of starting to piss me off. I sampled it last week and it had a hint of band aid to it, but nothing like the prior batch using 1318 that was unbearable. I ended up dumping the whole keg.

I don't know what to make of it. Both batches were pitched and held at 66 for the first week and then ramped up to the low 70's. This current batch has been at 74 for three weeks and the activity just keeps slowly going. My first few experiences with 1318 were great, but I think I'm done with it for a while.
 
Mordhaus said:
My current batch with 1318 is on day 28 of fermentation and still going. It's kind of starting to piss me off. I sampled it last week and it had a hint of band aid to it, but nothing like the prior batch using 1318 that was unbearable. I ended up dumping the whole keg.

I don't know what to make of it. Both batches were pitched and held at 66 for the first week and then ramped up to the low 70's. This current batch has been at 74 for three weeks and the activity just keeps slowly going. My first few experiences with 1318 were great, but I think I'm done with it for a while.
Click to expand...

There is something wrong if it's fermenting for 28 days. did you make enough yeast with your starter?
I did the same temp control as you and it finished in 7 days.
 
IMG_20170922_164456.jpg

This is my 4th Vermont Ale generation using this recipe and I don't know what went wrong but it's already getting clear 1 week after kegging. The only thing I changed in the grainbill was using all 2row (for main grain). 1.060 to 1.013. My last 3 batches never cleared until the keg was kicked.

BUT the beer is so good! One of the best I made. Full of flavor and aroma, so tasty. The 4th generation of the Vermont Ale is really shining. I understand now what John Kimmich said about Vermont Ale getting better and better after 3-4 generations.

Kegged this version with 1318 this morning. Will post result in 1 week.
 
Beerdrinker85 said:
There is something wrong if it's fermenting for 28 days. did you make enough yeast with your starter?

I did the same temp control as you and it finished in 7 days.
Click to expand...



Made a 1700ml starter for it. Over 300b estimated cells. OG for this batch was only 1.059. The first time I used 1318, I just made a 1200ml vitality starter and pitched at high krausen in to a 1.076 beer and it blew out the top of the Speidel on day two. Never had a beer do that before.

I've never had a problem with 1318 until the last two batches. They've been terribly slow. Just took a gravity reading of the current beer that's still chugging and it's down to 1.002. I even checked both hydrometers in distilled water at 60 degrees to verify calibration.

With all the recent talk of 1318 reliability, I'm wondering if an alien batch made it out from Wyeast.
 
Beerdrinker85 said:
IMG_20170922_164456.jpg

This is my 4th Vermont Ale generation using this recipe and I don't know what went wrong but it's already getting clear 1 week after kegging. The only thing I changed in the grainbill was using all 2row (for main grain). 1.060 to 1.013. My last 3 batches never cleared until the keg was kicked.

BUT the beer is so good! One of the best I made. Full of flavor and aroma, so tasty. The 4th generation of the Vermont Ale is really shining. I understand now what John Kimmich said about Vermont Ale getting better and better after 3-4 generations.

Kegged this version with 1318 this morning. Will post result in 1 week.
Click to expand...

I used gigga yeast Vermont for 5 generations and it does drop clear faster each generation, but if u dry hop day 2-3 while it at peak fermentation it will stay hazy. At least in my experience.
 
Mordhaus said:
My current batch with 1318 is on day 28 of fermentation and still going. It's kind of starting to piss me off. I sampled it last week and it had a hint of band aid to it, but nothing like the prior batch using 1318 that was unbearable. I ended up dumping the whole keg.

I don't know what to make of it. Both batches were pitched and held at 66 for the first week and then ramped up to the low 70's. This current batch has been at 74 for three weeks and the activity just keeps slowly going. My first few experiences with 1318 were great, but I think I'm done with it for a while.
Click to expand...

Interesting. Might just go back to S-05 for now..
 
Mordhaus said:
Made a 1700ml starter for it. Over 300b estimated cells. OG for this batch was only 1.059. The first time I used 1318, I just made a 1200ml vitality starter and pitched at high krausen in to a 1.076 beer and it blew out the top of the Speidel on day two. Never had a beer do that before.

I've never had a problem with 1318 until the last two batches. They've been terribly slow. Just took a gravity reading of the current beer that's still chugging and it's down to 1.002. I even checked both hydrometers in distilled water at 60 degrees to verify calibration.

With all the recent talk of 1318 reliability, I'm wondering if an alien batch made it out from Wyeast.
Click to expand...

Just to be sure, are you able to check you beer pH?, maybe something else is chewing more sugar.
 
duelerx said:
Just to be sure, are you able to check you beer pH?, maybe something else is chewing more sugar.
Click to expand...



I don't have a ph meter. I've been using Bru 'N Water combined with my water report for every batch and they've all been fine except for the last two. What else could be chewing more sugar?
 
Jmash said:
I use 1318 all the time and I've never had an issue. Are you checking the batch dates?
Click to expand...



The last batch was only two weeks old when I bought it. Brought it home and immediately made a big starter to overbuild and split in two.
 
Dad Bod NEIPA

10lbs American 2-row
1lb flaked oats
1lbs Vienna (Ger.)
.5lbs Crystal 20L

1.5oz. Columbus - 30 min
1oz. Citra - whirlpool
1oz. Mosaic - whirlpool
1oz. Citra - 4 days - primary
1oz. Mosaic - 4 days - primary
1oz. Mosaic - 8 days - secondary
1oz. Galaxy - 8 days - secondary

5 gallon batch w/ 9 gallons of San Diego standard profile.

Mash @ 150 for 65min (I like mine a little on the dry side)

OG - 1.066
FG - 1.006

Simple and delicious!

View attachment 1506261441968.jpg
 
Mordhaus said:
I don't have a ph meter. I've been using Bru 'N Water combined with my water report for every batch and they've all been fine except for the last two. What else could be chewing more sugar?
Click to expand...

I was also thinking Brett. I never had 1318 drop that low.

Do you use Campden tabs? Chlorine/chloramine will produce a band aid taste.
 
kozmicsky said:
Made this about a week ago.. stuck to the original recipe with the exception of subbing El Dorado in place of the Galaxy. Came out fan-friggen-tastic! I have quite a bit of experience with NEIPAs and was really impressed with how this turned out. Better than some of the commercial ones I have tried. Probably due to the super freshness of homebrewing and quick carbing. Thanks for a great recipe! I have made a few tweaks for my next brew and this will definitely be a regular on tap at my house.

One thing to note, I did lose some volume to the hops. Filled one keg to 5 gallons and the other to 4 gallons. I made a 13 gallon batch.
Click to expand...

Update: Official Brew Date was Sunday July 16th, 2017. Came in around 6% (OG 1.058 / FG 1.012)

Entered AHA/BJCP Sanctioned Homebrew Competition

Took a GOLD for IPA 21B yesterday, I was ecstatic! Notes in quote above, I used the same recipe but switched up El Dorado in place of Galaxy.

Definitely a tasty NEIPA! Based on my knowledge of NEIPAs I have made a few changes to the grain bill and will see how those changes work out. Thanks again for a fantastic base recipe.

NEIPA-Gold.jpg
 
milldoggy said:
Brett, maybe you picked up something else
Click to expand...

Sbe2 said:
I was also thinking Brett. I never had 1318 drop that low.

Do you use Campden tabs? Chlorine/chloramine will produce a band aid taste.
Click to expand...

I have no clue how I would have picked up any Brett. I use campden tablets in every beer. One tablet per 10 gallons of water. The last beer I did was a Marris Otter and CTZ smash with 1272 and it turned out just fine. Everything in my process was the same as the prior two 1318 beers except for the yeast and the fermentation vessel. The two 1318's were done in my Speidel and the smash was keg fermented.

Even though I clean and sanitize very well, I'm not ruling out the possibility of having a contaminated Speidel. I'm at the point now where I don't want to use it again until I figure this out.
 
Braufessor said:
Do you take apart the spigot..... completely take it apart - like this:
https://imgur.com/sdnbQ7t
Click to expand...

The spigot on mine is a bit different than the one you have pictured. This is the one I have.

2807-Speidel-Fermenter-OEM-Spigot-Components.jpg


To answer your question, no I haven't. I tried to take it apart the first time I used it many, many brews ago without success. I kind of took that to mean it wasn't designed to come apart and never tried again. I'm definitely going to give it another go until it comes apart.
 
100% clean that valve each time. At my brewery, after a 30 min clean and place cycle, with caustic or pbw, I'm still amazed how much gunk/trub/yeast I find in the valves, elbows, thermowells, and gaskets!

After a cycle, we soak all the small parts in a bucket of pbw, while we clean the exterior of the fermenters.
 
Mordhaus said:
The spigot on mine is a bit different than the one you have pictured. This is the one I have.

2807-Speidel-Fermenter-OEM-Spigot-Components.jpg


To answer your question, no I haven't. I tried to take it apart the first time I used it many, many brews ago without success. I kind of took that to mean it wasn't designed to come apart and never tried again. I'm definitely going to give it another go until it comes apart.
Click to expand...

Sometimes they can be tough to get apart..... but, in my experience, they all come apart. That said - I have not used a spiedel though.
That spigot is suspect #1 for any kind of infection if you have not been taking it apart. I would find a way to get it apart.... maybe even get a new one that definitely does come apart for cleaning after every use.
I have used bottling buckets a lot for fermenters with great success -but, always careful to keep that spigot clean and I always cover spigots with plastic sandwich baggie during fermentation and then spray out with star san before any transfers.:mug:
 
Braufessor said:
Sometimes they can be tough to get apart..... but, in my experience, they all come apart. That said - I have not used a spiedel though.

That spigot is suspect #1 for any kind of infection if you have not been taking it apart. I would find a way to get it apart.... maybe even get a new one that definitely does come apart for cleaning after every use.

I have used bottling buckets a lot for fermenters with great success -but, always careful to keep that spigot clean and I always cover spigots with plastic sandwich baggie during fermentation and then spray out with star san before any transfers.:mug:
Click to expand...



Even if I have to boil it first, it's coming apart. It's so stupid as careful as I am that I let this go for so long. If this is the issue, it explains a lot. Once I've gone through cleaning everything again, I'm going make a simple, cheap smash with ingredients I already have in stock to see where I end up. I appreciate yours along with others feedback. I hope it's the spigot and I can be done with this.

If I could just win that CF10, I could ditch the Speidel!
 
Mordhaus said:
Even if I have to boil it first, it's coming apart. It's so stupid as careful as I am that I let this go for so long. If this is the issue, it explains a lot. Once I've gone through cleaning everything again, I'm going make a simple, cheap smash with ingredients I already have in stock to see where I end up. I appreciate yours along with others feedback. I hope it's the spigot and I can be done with this.

If I could just win that CF10, I could ditch the Speidel!
Click to expand...

Sorry if you have already mentioned this, but do you reuse your yeast or do fresh yeast each time?

Just spit ballin
 

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