No sparge/full volume mashing on grainfather

[acarter5251]

I just ordered a grainfather and have been looking to see if anyone doesn't sparge with their grainfather and what kind of hit they take on their efficiency by not doing so? Is it necessary to get good efficiency or is it only slightly better?

 

[M0KCE]

I just ordered one as well. I plan to sparge. Should be easy enough to pre-heat the sparge water 3 or 4 degrees above my strike temp and transfer it to the old igloo cooler. Should hold enough heat until I'm ready. I've heard of people cold water sparging as well. Anything you can do to get all the sugars out of the grain is worth it I think.


Also see: http://byo.com/malt/item/1375-skip-the-sparge

 

[doug293cz]

Here's a chart than shows the difference in lauter efficiency between no-sparge and equal run-off volume sparge. If your conversion efficiency is 100%, then mash efficiency will equal lauter efficiency, otherwise mash efficiency will be lower than lauter efficiency (mash efficiency = conversion efficiency * lauter efficiency.) Since there isn't really a way to squeeze a bag with the GF, your grain absorption should be about 0.12 gal/lb.



The other thing you have to worry about is whether you have a large enough volume to contain the entire mash for a no-sparge brew. Grain volume (once in the mash) is about 0.08 gal/lb, and your absorption rate will be about 0.12 gal/lb, so the mash volume requirement is;

Mash_Volume = Target_Pre_Boil_Volume + (0.2 gal/lb * Grain_Weight)​

Plus you'll need a little freeboard for stirring.

Brew on

 

[Allenk]

I heat my sparge water on the stove when brewing with the grainfather. It's really no problem. It takes awhile for the wort to come to a boil so it's not going to shorten your brew day in my experience.

 

[Kampenken]

I just ordered a grainfather and have been looking to see if anyone doesn't sparge with their grainfather and what kind of hit they take on their efficiency by not doing so? Is it necessary to get good efficiency or is it only slightly better?

Why would you want to do a no-sparge? Above posters assume it has to do with heating (maybe that's it, I don't know). If it's about time saving, no need to worry, as you turn it up to boil while you sparge and by the end of the sparge you'll be close to a boil. The sparge is so easy on the GF, thanks to the legs on the grain basket sitting on the boiler.

Also, to speed up the boil during sparge, cover the grain basket with a lid (and towel over the hole) and I just started draping a towel around the grain basket at the boiler as there is a gap there that will lose heat as well.

 

[Wagon_6]

I just ordered a grainfather and have been looking to see if anyone doesn't sparge with their grainfather and what kind of hit they take on their efficiency by not doing so? Is it necessary to get good efficiency or is it only slightly better?

Did you get a chance to try a no sparge brew on your grainfather? Wanted to see what kind of results you had. I'm thinking I can do back to back batches using my old boil kettle for the first batch boil and no sparge the second batch in the grainfather.

 

[Kampenken]

That's an approach but again I don't understand why? If you do a no sparge you lift the grain basket, let it drain, wait for boil. If you sparge you will do the same while you wait for boil. No time savings. What am I missing?

My tips to save time during sparge above will help if that's your goal. You could even add a heat stick if desired (and then possibly a no sparge could save time as the wait to boil may be less time than a sparge takes).

Interested in hearing thoughts on this.

 

[Allenk]

I did a no sparge/second runnings beer with a wheatwine & heffe. It turned out great! I did add some LME to the heffe and raw sugar to the wheatwine. One of the only limitations to the grainfather is batch size which can be a pain when brewing with a group.

I have also thought about brewing a strong 6gal wort and diluting with 2 gallons of water in the fermenter to split with a friend.

 

[Wagon_6]

That's an approach but again I don't understand why? If you do a no sparge you lift the grain basket, let it drain, wait for boil. If you sparge you will do the same while you wait for boil. No time savings. What am I missing?

My tips to save time during sparge above will help if that's your goal. You could even add a heat stick if desired (and then possibly a no sparge could save time as the wait to boil may be less time than a sparge takes).

Interested in hearing thoughts on this.

It's a few things for me. Mainly I brewed on a single kettle ebiab rig for a couple years and it was unbelievably convenient. PID temp control, easy clean up, everything the Grainfather offers. I smoked a cigar and dominated my fantasy football leagues while that rig went to work. I went from the ebiab to a DIY BrewEasy and it didn't take long to regret it. My brew days jumped to 7+ hours with a lot more babysitting.

Secondly, a major con IMO with the GF is the need for a separate HLT. I've always thought HLT were a pain and not needed. Specifically with the GF, everything runs semi-automated and smoothly until you have to stand there and hand pour hot water over the grain bed while maintaining a half inch depth. Enter the no-sparge convenience.

Lastly as I mentioned before, I still have my boil coil kettle so it would be cool if I could mash/sparge the first batch, transfer to boil coil kettle for the boil and then fire up a no-sparge batch in the GF. I'm willing to bet I could knock out 2 batches in less than 7 hours.

 

[Kampenken]

It's a few things for me. Mainly I brewed on a single kettle ebiab rig for a couple years and it was unbelievably convenient. PID temp control, easy clean up, everything the Grainfather offers. I smoked a cigar and dominated my fantasy football leagues while that rig went to work. I went from the ebiab to a DIY BrewEasy and it didn't take long to regret it. My brew days jumped to 7+ hours with a lot more babysitting.

Secondly, a major con IMO with the GF is the need for a separate HLT. I've always thought HLT were a pain and not needed. Specifically with the GF, everything runs semi-automated and smoothly until you have to stand there and hand pour hot water over the grain bed while maintaining a half inch depth. Enter the no-sparge convenience.

Lastly as I mentioned before, I still have my boil coil kettle so it would be cool if I could mash/sparge the first batch, transfer to boil coil kettle for the boil and then fire up a no-sparge batch in the GF. I'm willing to bet I could knock out 2 batches in less than 7 hours.

I see your point on the HLT manual process and no sparge is the simple work around and if no difference in final beer why not!(beyond possibly it requires 2% or so more grain if you drop a pt or two in efficiency). I could see trying that out, not sure what the grain bill max would be on it. I'm interested! I could also see those with little kids (mine grown) liking this less hands on approach with no sparge.

I do still like DIY, I could see one reason why you may have reluctance. My plan has been to install my weldless valve on my kettle and with it elevated auto sparge. Just because!

I've done back to back brew days on the GF twice now with a buddy. Long day, about 7+ hrs (only one thorough cleaning!). I start the first one early, he arrives mid way and he mostly runs the 2nd one.