Newb trying to use Bru'n Water

[boarderx3120]

I've been slowing dipping my toes in the idea of water chemistry lately so I got a report from my municipal water source and put in all the relative information into the Bru'n Water spreadsheet, however I am confused on the additions. In an attempt to keep it simple, I typed in 1.3g of gypsum per gallon of mash and sparge water. Now I am at the higher end of the calcium range (as I understand it) but still quite low in the sulfate range. How do I get that sulfate value up? It appears Epsom salt is an option (?) but that isn't something I typically hear brewers are adding to their water. Also, what is up with that bicarbonate level. Should I be concerned with that? Here is a screen shot of what I am seeing. Your thoughts are appreciated.

 

[Miraculix]

Sulfate levels of 300 are really high, I would stay with what you got now hacked into the spreadsheet and brew with it!

 

[jabba11]

Im sure the water gurus will be along shortly to answer your questions, but every time I see something like this I am thankful I just bought an RO system. I agree the sulfate is high and above 150 is not ideal unless its a highly hopped beer. (at least that's what my bruinwater says)

 

[boarderx3120]

Thanks guys. I’ll try it out and see how it turns out. “Highly hopped” is kind of a relative term. This particular 11 gallon batch is an ipa with about 12oz of hops.

 

[SEndorf]

I like a bit of Epsom in my IPAs.
You could try adding .75 gram/gal.
If I figure correctly, that will get you to:
144 Calcium
31 Magnesium
11 Sodium
300 Sulfate
57 Chloride

 

[Upthewazzu]

Wow, 300ppm sulfate is about double what I aim for in my IPA's. I wouldn't go much further passed what you have already.

 

[SEndorf]

I always like a little drywall flavoring......

Seriously, that much gypsum gives the hops a kick in the arse but for my palate has never been excessive.

 

[LarMoeCur]

I've been using the Tasty McDole Hoppy Beer water adjustments for years. Built up from RO.

Ca-110ppm
Mg-18ppm
Na-17ppm
SO4-350ppm
Cl-50ppm

Sulfates are acceptable from 200-400 ppm for hoppy beers. What I think you need to look at more closely is your Chloride to Sulfate ratio. 222 sulfates to 54 chlorides are a 4 to 1 ratio. Following John Palmers chart puts your water at the top end of bitter (2-4) and the low end of very bitter (4-9) ratios.

Your bicarbonate levels are fine.

If you are brewing a pale ale, I think your water adjustments look fine. If you want to bump the sulfates a little more without adding Calcium than add some Epsom Salt. The magnisum is a smidge low anyway.

 

[Upthewazzu]

I always like a little drywall flavoring......

Seriously, that much gypsum gives the hops a kick in the arse but for my palate has never been excessive.

Looks like I'll be doing a little experimenting for my next IPA. Thanks!

 

[mabrungard]

While I like the pale ale profile, its not for everyone. I suggest that the sulfate level you have in your original post is a good starting point. Try that out and test the higher 300+ level by adding a thin pinch of gypsum to a pint of that beer and mix in. If that version tastes better to you, then you could more confidently target the higher sulfate in the next batch. I do recommend using epsom salt in a hoppy beer since it adds flavor that I find appropriate in those styles.

 

[SEndorf]

After several beers this evening, I would like to point out that when the creator of Bru 'n Water agrees with me on even a small level, I find my happy place...….

 

[thehaze]

I recently went up to 175 ppm sulfate in my latest IPA and I can see, it can go higher, and I am not really into really, dry IPAs, with lots of bitterness and hops. So 300 ppm for the right person might be the right amount.

 

[mabrungard]

Don’t forget that sulfate and bittering are on the same side of the equation. If a recipe has been developed around low sulfate water, the bittering might need to be reduced a bit when higher sulfate water is used. In the case of an under-bittered beer, more sulfate might help gain a degree of dryness and bittering.

 

[boarderx3120]

Well, I brewed yesterday using the profile shown in the first post. The spreadsheet estimated a ph of about 5.5, so I didn't worry too much about any upfront acid additions. Although, at 20 minutes in I tested the ph using the paper strips (I know, not very accurate but I use them for kicks), and it showed a ph of 6.2 (dark purple)! Naturally, I panicked and threw in 4.9ml of 88% lactic acid (total guess, my first time ever needing to do this) into the 9.5 gallons of mash which brought it back down to "yellow" on a new test strip (the color I usually get when measuring the ph). Question is, how in the world did the ph get so much higher than what was estimated on the speadsheet? I double checked my inputs and they all seam correct. Its totally understandable that the mineral additions would bring the ph up, but I figured the estimated ph took that into consideration. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong here.

 

[LarMoeCur]

Well, I brewed yesterday using the profile shown in the first post. The spreadsheet estimated a ph of about 5.5, so I didn't worry too much about any upfront acid additions. Although, at 20 minutes in I tested the ph using the paper strips (I know, not very accurate but I use them for kicks), and it showed a ph of 6.2 (dark purple)! Naturally, I panicked and threw in 4.9ml of 88% lactic acid (total guess, my first time ever needing to do this) into the 9.5 gallons of mash which brought it back down to "yellow" on a new test strip (the color I usually get when measuring the ph). Question is, how in the world did the ph get so much higher than what was estimated on the speadsheet? I double checked my inputs and they all seam correct. Its totally understandable that the mineral additions would bring the ph up, but I figured the estimated ph took that into consideration. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong here.

I've used Bru'n Water well over 100 times. It's always been within .2 of estimated pH when measured with my pH meter. I think you answered your own question earlier in your post. I’ll bet the pH paper were flat out wrong. They are known to be inaccurate. Unless you are using the high dollar strips like ColorPHast which are very accurate. I can see your local water’s pH changing somewhat but not by .7. Hopefully, you didn’t lower your pH too much. Plug in 4.9ml lactic acid into Bru’n Water and see what the pH would be if you were really at 5.5. As long as you stay out of the 4s you will be ok.

There really is no way to tell if you are doing something wrong without proper test equipment. You either need good pH strips or a good meter or you need to trust Bru’n Water. If your inputs are accurate Bru’n Water will get you pretty darn close.