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Hey sorry to spam this thread, but i am having foaming issues with my keggerator (currently 3meters of 6mm ID tubing (could be 6.5mm)). I figure i just need to change this tubing as have tired everything under the sun to fix the issue...

What mm tubing is everyone here using? I have the option for 4.5mm or 5.5mm from my local brew store; everything on the forum talks about 3/16inch internal diameter which is 4.8mm in metric.
 
I have 5.5mm brewshop line, 2.7m w picnic tap, serving @ 1 bar (14psi) at 7°.

All of my foaming issues were due to over carbonation I'm pretty sure.

I was rolling with some 6.5mm ID (from memory) from Bunnings, serves great with 7m of line but that much line was a colossal PITA.
 
I have 5.5mm brewshop line, 2.7m w picnic tap, serving @ 1 bar (14psi) at 7°.

All of my foaming issues were due to over carbonation I'm pretty sure.

I was rolling with some 6.5mm ID (from memory) from Bunnings, serves great with 7m of line but that much line was a colossal PITA.

thanks mate :)
 
Hey sorry to spam this thread, but i am having foaming issues with my keggerator (currently 3meters of 6mm ID tubing (could be 6.5mm)). I figure i just need to change this tubing as have tired everything under the sun to fix the issue...

What mm tubing is everyone here using? I have the option for 4.5mm or 5.5mm from my local brew store; everything on the forum talks about 3/16inch internal diameter which is 4.8mm in metric.

I had a bunch of foaming issues. Originally I was using about a meter of 5.5 tubing that my homebrewshop recommended, with picnic taps, and it was a foaming mess no matter what PSI I used. I lengthened the line to 10 feet and it was still foaming more than I wanted but still more than I thought it should be. I then build a keezer and bought some Perlick Flow Control taps and the pressure was way too low. I cut the lines to about 5 feet and even with the flow control nobs completely open it still comes out a bit slow. Absolutely no foam issues, to the point where it can be hard to make a nice head on the beer unless I hold the glass a foot below the stream. The takeaway for me was that the quality of the tap plays a big part and the calculators out there are only so accurate. But if there is too much foam, a longer line is the simplest thing to look at. But I agree with the post above, those long lines were a pain to deal with. Made everything quite messy.
 
I just posted this over on realbeer but would like your guys input as well.

Going to be trying a Jonny Octane clone (RED IPA by Panhead)

Hi guys,


I tried it at LBQ earlier this month towards the end of the night and really enjoyed it, however having had a skinfull by this time my memory of what I enjoyed so much is a tad hazy, so unfortunately will have to try it again before finalising the recipe :)

I have searched online for some info and this description was the best I saw, naturally I have never used any of these hops and this is a beer which relies heavily on them, so I'm going to need some advice regarding their use. I also haven't used Sheperd's Delight, Red Back or Aurora malts which I'm initially thinking could be utilised in this brew, so any advice there would be appreciated.

"This is Canhead No.4 in a range of four great new beers from Panhead presented in 440ml cans. Hence Canhead This is a heavily hopped IPA with large additions of Columbus, Centennial, Amarillo and Simcoe producing aromas of orange, pine and caramel. The rich, firm malt base identifies it clearly as a red. The hops provide a balanced bitterness on the palate and a lengthy pine and citrus finish.
8% ABV"
(http://www.craftbeeronline.co.nz/panhead-canhead-no-4-johnny-octane-red-ipa-440ml-can.html)


Crunching some numbers on brewersfriend and breaking my usual rules regarding the amounts of specialty malts I would use I'm currently thinking along the lines of

4.2 kg Pale Ale
1.5 kg Munich
0.7 kg Medium Crystal
0.25 kg Aurora
0.03 Black malt

With 80% efficiency this gives vitals of 1.083 OG and 30 EBC.
With the black being there purely for colour I might even leave it out.
The Crystal and Munich combo I have used before, it ended up far to sweet in that recipe without enough hop bitterness to balance so will have to go back into the diary to check out what IBU's it had, but for this my first thought is to balance it with OG or slightly lower and aim for 80, with the majority of the hops coming in late.

Given the information above I'm thinking

25g Simcoe (12.7%) @ 60 min 35 IBU
50g Amarillo (8.6%) Whirlpool (30 mins, 5% utilisation) 10 IBU
50g Centennial (10%) Whirlpool (30 mins, 5% utilisation) 12 IBU
50g Columbus (15%) Whirlpool (30 mins, 5% utilisation) 18 IBU

Total 75 IBU, however given I have plucked my hop utilisation that's probably +/- 15.

Yeast I was looking at using S-04 for its slightly lower attenuation adding to the background sweetness, ferment at 20°

This is a decent step away from what I usually brew and plenty of unknowns in there for me ( well only malts, hops and trying to clone a beer), so any advice is greatly appreciated. As I said my memory of the beer is slightly hazy so I will have to try and track down another can as this current recipe may be waaaaay off.
 
Nice one man, love that beer.
I am by no means an expert with the malts, but in my own experience I created the following recipe

So around:
4.95kg Gladfield Ale Malt
690g Gladfield Red Back
350g Gladfield Medium Crystal Malt
250g Gladfield Shepherds Delight

Mashed at 67C, this gave medium mouth feel with good amount of offwhite/copperish head which retained for the whole pint. The malt was not overly roasted, but provided a good amount of sweetness and toffee/caramel flavours. I think it would have been better if i added some chocolate or roasted malts to give it a bit more of a malty kick though. Colour was a gorgeous deep dark red - definitely on the money for Johnny Octane.

In terms of hops, you will need a massive late or flame out addition to get what Panhead acheives. (at least 100g, but i would go for 200g to really get the hops to accentuate over the amount of malt aroma and character - but then again you've seen my recipes lol) you could stick with above and go 25g of each at flame out, then 12.5g of each for dry hop. Simcoe will be the piney one, with Amarillo pushing through the stone fruit and citrus vibes.
 
Yeh i need to try this one again, i really enjoyed it.

Will def go with the the dry hop additions, and where i put whirlpool additions a i mean flameout, i use the terms interchangably.
 
Yeh i need to try this one again, i really enjoyed it.

Will def go with the the dry hop additions, and where i put whirlpool additions a i mean flameout, i use the terms interchangably.

Ah sorry i just saw 30mins didnt see you had wrote whirlpool! yeah looks pretty good then man.

A small amount Shepards delight would be a good addition for adding some colour and some of the malt character.
 
Hey everyone. Does anyone have any suggestions please for a nice easy NZ pale ale recipe my mate and I could try for our second BIAB attempt? Ideally would like to keep it fairly sessionable for the summer season. Cheers
 
So how many here have entered any beers in the SOBA NHC? How many beers, and what did you enter?
 
Nice. 10 here.

Scottish 60/-
Ordinary Bitter
English Barley Wine
Cream Ale
English Brown
Foreign Export Stout
American Porter
Semi Sweet Mead
Sweet Mead
Applewine

I think half of them are pretty decent, the other half I'm mostly looking for feedback on. Excited for the 7th. Post if you win anything. Good luck!
 
Screw the clones, you folks have some of the best hops on the planet and your harvest was just released! Go out and brew some awesome beers with them! If you're feeling timid, just do a series of SMaSH beers with your awesome native hops and a constant base malt (I would go for whatever is cheapest and most common in NZ, no idea what that is) and revel in your native hop glory. NZ does at least two things really well, and they are hops and the All Blacks. Please enjoy, my friend :mug:
 
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whoops. didn't realize this thread was 128 pages long. please disregard, anything I said has already been said
 
Been brewing up a storm here in Palmy....

I have been playing with Brettanomyces as a primary yeast - its unbelievable.

I have a NZ Pale Ale with Cascade and Nelson Sauvin in the keg that I fermented with Wyeast 5112 Brett Brux at 25 degrees. Massive amounts of peach, pineapple, sweat (in a good way), a little muscat and a hint of leather. Sooooo good!! :D:D:D:D:D:D

Brewed a PKB clone I got given from fellow brewer, brewed on Thursday/Friday last week and threw it on the yeast cake of the beer above. Checked it this evening and its dropped to 1.008!! Roughly an 8% BIPA/Robust Porter....wasn't planning that, but oh wells :tank: :drunk:

Also have an experiment on the go, involving silage.
I created a yeast starter and biffed in some silage, just for ****s and giggles. Something is happening with it, there is a pellicle forming on the jug its in. So stoked!! Plan to step it up this week some time and see what it tastes like.....weird I know, but all in the name of science!!
 
^ sounds interesting bro! Keen to experiment with Brett at some point.

In lack of that I made a Red Ale on the weekend using American Pale Malt, Munich, Crystal malts & Special B. Hopped with Columbus, Centennial & Cascade. Smells real good fermenting away at the moment. Colour is looking awesome too! very dark deep red. Aiming for 6.3%.

Also want to try brew a NZ Pale Ale for my brother in Law who is coming over from England in December. I am open to good recipes :)
 
Something with a good punch of NZ hops;but not high in ABV, maybe around 4.5-5.5%

Try this one:

23L batch 71% efficiency
60min boil
60min mash @ 65 degrees

4.5kg Pale Ale Malt
450gCarahell
450g Munich 1
100g Carapils

30g NZ Cascade @ 60mins
20g NZ Cascade @ 10mins
16g Nelson Sauvin @ 10mins
30g Nelson Sauvin @ flameout

Ferment with S-04 at 20 degrees.

Nice NZ Pale Ale. If you don't get enough Sauvin in the aroma, dry hop it. I've goner as high as 80g at flameout but that was way too much.

I have a APA/IPA hybrid as well:

23L batch, 81% efficiency (dialled in my gear by this point)
60min boil
60min mash @ 68 degrees

4kg Pale Ale Malt
450g Light Crystal (Or CaraPils)
450g Vienna

28g NZ Cascade @ FWH
20g NZ Centennial @ 10mins
20g NZ Centennial @ 5mins
20g NZ Cascade @ 1mins
59g Citra @ dry hop (7 days)

Fermented with Wyeast 1968 at 18 degrees
 
Hey everyone. Does anyone have any suggestions please for a nice easy NZ pale ale recipe my mate and I could try for our second BIAB attempt? Ideally would like to keep it fairly sessionable for the summer season. Cheers


Hey there.. Not sure if you are sorted now.. But I have a cascade smash pale ale, all grain recipe on brewgr... Under madcow...was my first attempt at recipe.. Pretty tasty and they didn't last long in the kegs.View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1446802185.505705.jpg
 
Hey there.. Not sure if you are sorted now.. But I have a cascade smash pale ale, all grain recipe on brewgr... Under madcow...was my first attempt at recipe.. Pretty tasty and they didn't last long in the kegs.View attachment 314199

Thanks everyone for the advice. We ended up doing the Tuatara APA clone from Brewtopia. Bubbling away happily as I write this!8
 
Results guys?

NHC I'm guessing you mean?
I tanked on 2 - Session IPA = 10 (wrong category, more of a light pale brewed poorly), Oatmeal Stout = 6 (weird that the strang acidic twang I taste in it didn't come up in the judging - really felt they were overly harsh on this one not a great beer but I wouldn't say "problematic" - maybe I should though :D), then got bronze (36) on my Berliner Weisse (really wasn't expecting it because it is really light on the sour as it was a first attempted and didn't want it to go too far - mentioned I the judging sheet to give it more punch in future)
You - I saw a couple of Rob's in the medal list?
 
That was me. 2 bronze.
Tart cherry Brett saison.-32
And 33 for my blonde ale.
Lowest was 14 coconut porter
Then a couple of closer one 25 25 and 18.
 
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