naamanf
Active Member
But there is also the LG which has it's advantages.Chugger or March 809 simple easy, flip a coin and you won't be disappointed.
-=Jason=-
<---walks off to find a three sided coin....
But there is also the LG which has it's advantages.Chugger or March 809 simple easy, flip a coin and you won't be disappointed.
-=Jason=-
I've decided my first pump will likely be an LG. Keeping my eye out for a good deal on one.
I've been using an LG for about five years and I have had zero problems with it. It does everything that I need it to do. I have this model and that's about what I paid for it: http://www.drillspot.com/products/72471/Little_Giant_3-MD-MT-HC_Magnetic_Drive_Pump
This pump has served me very well. I really like how easy it is to remove and replace the pump head when necessary, which is very rarely.
Hey Carl,
I have the pump mounted vertically with the pump head down, so the inlet/outlet are almost in the same horizontal plane. I use a bleeder valve to purge air, grab samples and dump excess volume when desired. I'm convinced that you can mount these pumps in any position desired if you use a bleed valve. I have absolutely zero priming problems and I find it puzzling when I often hear of others who do, mostly because the solution is so simple and inexpensive.
I've been using an LG for about five years and I have had zero problems with it. It does everything that I need it to do. I have this model and that's about what I paid for it: http://www.drillspot.com/products/72471/Little_Giant_3-MD-MT-HC_Magnetic_Drive_Pump
This pump has served me very well. I really like how easy it is to remove and replace the pump head when necessary, which is very rarely.
Walter...does march have an equivelent to the LG 3md-hc pump? Its similar to the MDX you linked but it is center inlet and 1/12HP. http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/...ive-Pump-6-power-cord-(581603)/57432/Cat/1006
I need to get another pump and love my LG, but if March has something similar for around the same price I might have to jump ship for the made in the USA. Thanks.
Walter,
The following was taken from the first page of the manual for the LG 3-MD-MT-HC which you can find here: http://www.franklin-electric.com/ir...iant-mag-drive/highly-corrosive-handling.aspx
"Your Little Giant pump is delivered to you completely pre-assembled
and pretested from the factory. It is ready for immediate
use. The pump may be installed in any position. It may be
mounted vertically with the pump head down. Proper plumbing
connections should be made, see specification table to determine
what size intake and discharge your pump has. Use a thread
sealer on all pipe connections and hand tighten only. Note: On HC
models a roll of Teflon® pipe seal tape is supplied. Do not use a
wrench to tighten the HC model connections, excessive force may
damage the plastic part. Make sure the wing nuts are tight before
operating the pump. Motor nameplates list all electrical data. Make
sure the pump is connected to proper voltage before operating.
When wiring pumps with no plug, the green (or green/yellow) wire
is the ground. The other two wires are line (live). Do not allow
the SC models to run dry (without fluid). However, because the
HC models utilize a carbon bushing in the impeller they maybe
allowed to run dry for periods up to eight hours at a time. These
pumps are not submersible, operate the pumps only in the in-line
mode. Do not put the units in liquid. Pump should be installed in
a dry area and protected from splash. These pumps are not self
priming models, they must be installed so that the pump head
(volute) is flooded at the time the pump is to be started. That is,
the inlet of the pump must be below the level of the surface of the
liquid being pumped.
With all due respect, I also think that what you said about air getting trapped in the pump head is B.S. Liquid passing through the pump head and the pressure differentials created by the impeller would rid the pump head of any air almost immediately if the pump head was properly flooded (primed) initially. Perhaps your comments are applicable to the March pumps only and if so, that would only serve to further convince me that the LG is a better way to go.
Here's what the manual says about the carbon bushings:
"The HC models utilize a carbon bushing between the impeller and
spindle. The use of this carbon bushing will allow these pumps
(HC series) to run dry (without fluid) for up to eight hours at a
time. Do not allow the SC models to run dry. They do not have the
carbon bushing and heat build up caused by friction will damage
the parts when SC models are run dry."
I filter all of my brewing water through a carbon filter. Just more B.S. IMO. You can very easily check out the internals of the LG pumps on that same web site. The exploded view shows the details clearly. There are no "ball bearings" used on the impeller. No need to guess what they use, just read the manual.
This is from the manual for the larger LG-5 pumps. It makes the same statement regarding the pump positioning:
"INSTALLATION
Your Little Giant pump is delivered to you completely pre-assembled
and pretested from the factory. It is ready for immediate use. The
pump may be installed in any position. It may be mounted
vertically with the pump head down."
The construction seems to be the same as for the 3-MD-MT-HC:
http://www.franklin-electric.com/media/documents/993235.pdf
I would focus on battling the Chugger pump competition. They are your real threat, not LG.
Everybody is basing their arguments on the owners manual/user's guide which is the first thing that ought to hit the trash for 99% of products out there. They're either a disclaimer for the manufacturer to CYA, or poorly translated, contrived BS.
Yes, let's be fair for sure. I think you may have talked to the wrong person at LG. AFAIK, these pumps were specifically designed for use in domestic hot water circulation systems. ie. potable water use. I also looked into this a long time ago and there was every indication that there would be absolutely no problem using this pump for brewing purposes. So far, it's panned out that way and I've been using the pump for going on six years without any problems at all. Perhaps I will get cancer or something down the road, but somehow I doubt it will be due to using the LG pump.
Now there's some genuinely stupid advice for ya IMO!
I filter all of my brewing water through a carbon filter. Just more B.S. IMO.
Here's what the manual says about the carbon bushings:
"The HC models utilize a carbon bushing between the impeller and
spindle. The use of this carbon bushing will allow these pumps
(HC series) to run dry (without fluid) for up to eight hours at a
time. Do not allow the SC models to run dry. They do not have the
carbon bushing and heat build up caused by friction will damage
the parts when SC models are run dry."
Doesn't seem like you comparing apples to apples here since I believe in this case we are dealing with carbon seals here and not bearings?
Doesn't seem like you comparing apples to apples here since I believe in this case we are dealing with carbon seals here and not bearings?
Ok I guess I was misunderstanding the application of the carbon on these. I'm still now worried about it though.
Water from the hot water heater side is not considered 'potable'. It should not be used for cooking or drinking. The reason is this. The danger zone for most bacteria is 40 degrees F to 140 degrees F. There are several harmful bacteria that can live in your water heater, including legionella, if the temperature is maintained below 140 degrees F. Hot water is also good at dissolving things....so you will also get trace minerals of copper, zinc, iron depending on how old your pipes are etc. So a pump made for use in domestic hot water circulation systems isn't necessarily ideal just because it can handle the temps.
-Walter
My point being that the specifications and limitation of the product are often listed in such a manner as to absolve the manufacturer of liability, not necessarily how the product is capable of performing and under what circumstance. Those little pamphlets are written by the lawyers not the engineers.
I don't think you grasp the tone of my sentiment.
Nonsense IMO, or B.S. if you prefer. I'm sure their legal department does review everything that they put out, but you can be sure that the engineers are the guys that actually wrote the manual.
That would be our series 3 pump. The cheapest version would be our Polypro model the AC-3CP-MD AC-3 Pump
Nice thing is we have replacement parts for this unit in the same Polysulfone plastic as the 809's are made from, so you could get it to withstand 250* temps. Or just order it with the polysulfone. It would add about $62 (list price) to the price of the pump. So going through that place i listed above you would still be under $200 for the pump if you payed list for the replacement parts! Incase anyone wanted to do something like that here are the part numbers for the parts you would as for:
0130-0018-1000 AC-3CP-MD pump 115v (list price $188)
0130-0133-1000 #3 Polysulfone Impeller (list Price $22)
0130-0134-1000 #3 Cover 3/4" FPT inlet (list price $20)
0130-0153-1000 #3 Rear housing 1/2" MPT outlet (list price $20)
And if anyone wanted a barb fitting inlet/outlet instead of FPT/MPT threads on the pump then order this:
0130-0135-1000 #3 Rear housing 3/4" OD outlet (list price $20)
0130-0155-1000 #3 Cover 3/4" OD inlet (list price $20)
-Walter
So this pump you are describing being assembled above from march with the additional parts will match (roughly) the performance of the LG 3-MD-HC pumps, will be fully rated for above boiling temps, all food grade materials in wort contact, made in the U.S.A, for under $200?
The only caveat really is it doesn't have the carbon bushings so it can not be run dry?
Lastly does the march motor have ball bearings?
Yes
If you REALY want/need the carbon bushings we can supply the impeller with them. It is an option just not a standard item that comes on the pump right off the shelf.
Yes, The standard off the shelf motor for the series 3 pump comes with Ball bearings.
-Walter
If you had some time and wanted to go the least expensive way about it, then check eBay. The 3 series pumps are floating around there quite a bit since they are very popular with the marine AC crowd. The AC-3CP-MD have a 38" cord and the BC-3CP-MD has a 72" cord. Both have mounting bases and both come with the Polypro pump heads. The AC-3 has an exposed impeller magnet where the BC-3 has the magnet encapsulated. But if you were buying a used pump I would change out the pump head and go with the polysulfone option I listed above....you could probably get a complete unit together for under $100.
These motors are almost bulletproof. The vendor we buy from says they last 3-5 years of continuous duty operation. Although they only carry a 1yr warranty. We see them routinely lasting 10+ years in the marine environment. I have one here at March that's been running for 8yrs now....it would have been 15 had we not had a janitor come by and hit the pump next to it and break a fitting off spraying water all over the lab and emptying out 500gallons of water all over everything!
-Walter
So if you buy a BC-3CP-MD and change out the impeller it basically becomes a AC-3CP-MD pump? they do have a bunch of these pumps on ebay and other sites might try and find some deals and just replace the wet end. Even so a brand new AC-3CP-MD is already on ebay for $120 shipped, not bad. new pumps!
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