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chunklefunk

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I am trying to come up with my 1st West Coast style Pale Ale recipe.

This is what I have


Ingredient Name Amount

Briess Golden Light Liquid Extract
6 lbs, 0 oz

Briess 2 Row Caramel 10
0 lbs, 8 oz

Briess 2 Row Carapils
0 lbs, 8 oz

Simcoe Pellets
1 oz @ 60 mins

Cascade Pellets
1 oz @ 15 mins

Cascade Pellets
1 oz @ Dry Hop
SAFALE US-05 American Ale
 
What's the SRM of the LME?

As the recipe stands (without knowing the SRM of the LME) the color could be way under the style parameters. Also, with that much hops, you'll be over the style by about 15 IBU (you're at 60 IBU there, American Pale Ale is 30-45)... If you wanted to make it an American IPA, then it's more within the IBU range. But, it looks like you're OG won't be high enough there with the malt bill you're using (you're looking at 1.044 there, for 5 gallons)...

I would highly suggest running recipe's through software moving forward... Either the sites that will help, or something like Beer Smith to figure things out. Otherwise, you may think you're making one kind of brew, only to actually make something very different.

Personally, I started using software at my third batch (still extract at the time)... It's helped me a LOT in figuring out recipes.
 
I am trying to come up with my 1st West Coast style Pale Ale recipe.

This is what I have


Ingredient Name Amount

Briess Golden Light Liquid Extract
6 lbs, 0 oz

Briess 2 Row Caramel 10
0 lbs, 8 oz

Briess 2 Row Carapils
0 lbs, 8 oz

Simcoe Pellets
1 oz @ 60 mins

Cascade Pellets
1 oz @ 15 mins

Cascade Pellets
1 oz @ Dry Hop
SAFALE US-05 American Ale

If you are using crystal, then ditch the carapils, I doubt you'll need it, I would however use crystal 40L rather than the 10, I like my PA's a bit more coppery in color, and with an SRM of 4.0 with your LME you will be right at tle lowest limit for color style guideline wise. 1 oz of Simcoe at 60 minutes will take you way over IBU's for the style as well, especially if your AA is 10-13%.

FWIW, cut back your bittering hop addition to .5 oz, maybe .75 if you like a bit more bitterness. Use crystal 40L it will get your color up to about 6.6SRM which is a little above the min for the style, you could bump the amount up slightly too rather than using the carapils.
 
The SRM color is 4 on Brewmasterswarehouse site.
I have the BeerSmith software, but I am still adding and learning.


Revised Recipe:

Briess Golden Light Liquid Extract
6 lbs, 0 oz

Briess 2 Row Caramel 40
0 lbs, 12 oz

Simcoe Pellets
.75 oz @ 60 mins

Simcoe Pellets
.25 oz @ 10 mins

Cascade Pellets
1 oz @ 5 mins

Cascade Pellets
1 oz @ Dry Hop

SAFALE US-05 American Ale



Beer Smith say my OG is slightly low.
1.042
 
Having that info, I'm going to agree with Schnitzengiggle... Drop the carapils, and change the crystal 10 to at least crystal 40 (either 1/2# or 1#)... If you want a little more variety, you could do 1/2# of crystal 20 and 1/2# of crystal 60... Really depends on what you're really looking for as far as malt flavor/character. With the two crystal malts, you should get a color of about 9.3 SRM... Closer to the middle of the style range.

I would add another pound of extract to the batch. Either Light DME or Extra Light DME would do the trick. Light DME will make the color a tad darker too. That will get your OG to about 1.053, giving you about 5.10% ABV (depending on the FG)...

If you still want to use Simcoe hops for bittering, I'd reduce it from 1oz to 5/8oz for 60 minutes. That will land you at about 38.7 IBU.

Those changes will land you pretty solidly within the American Pale Ale parameters.

I would really suggest learning what the different specialty grains will give you. That way you'll be able to better formulate recipes moving forward. Or just buy more kits and let someone else do that part for you.

I did kits for my first three batches, but I couldn't leave well enough alone, so I altered them from the start. After that I started formulating my own recipes. It takes a little effort to figure out what grains will give you what results, in what percentages, but that's at least part of the fun. I have yet to get a batch that's not been really good, or great, since making my own recipes.

Just out of curiosity, how many batches have you brewed so far?
 
I've just bottle my first batch of Irish Red Ale last week and will be brewing a SNPA clone from Midwest Supplies. I bought some extra cascade (dry hopping) from Brewmasters Warehouse since it's close. I am having issues in buying kits, since I want to do my own.
 
Then I would say to either look at some other recipes that are in line with what you want to make, and tweak them to be your own, or start educating yourself as to what different things bring to the brew. Either method will work, just depends on which route you want to take.

Personally, I found that shifting over to all grain has opened up the world for brewing to me. I've picked up a decent range of specialty grains, along with base malts and can formulate pretty much anything I want to brew with them. I'm focusing on brews based in the British Isles right now, or at least styles from that region. That helps to narrow down the selection a bit. I'm trying to stay within the style parameters, at least most of them most of the time... :D Nothing wrong with making a stronger version of a brew.

Have you thought about going with a partial mash recipe? Have some DME on hand to help with the OG target, but use grain for the rest. Depending on what you have on hand for pots, you could use the BIAB method to get your feet wet...

You could formulate a recipe and bounce it off the guys at the LHBS, if they're any good that is... Explain what you're really looking for and they should be able to help nudge you in the right direction.

Personally, I know I'm still learning things as I brew. I don't expect to have the regional styles figured out for at least some years. That's for just the region I'm starting with... Of course, I'm also occasionally brewing something from another region, but I'm sticking at least with ales... No wheat beers yet, or anything too crazy. :D
 
You have been given some great advice about tweeking your recipe more to the guidelines of an American Pale Ale (more in line with EdWort's recipe or a SNPA clone), but if I understood you right, you are looking to take things a step further and make a West Coast Pale Ale, which I think is more accurately called a baby IPA (all the hops, 1/2 the alcohol).

The Maltose Falcons have their own style guide that you might find helpful. I'll cut and paste their guidelines for American Pale Ale and West Coast Pale Ale so you can see the differences.

CLASS 5. AMERICAN-STYLE PALE ALE
5.1 American-Style Pale Ale
Aroma: Usually moderate to strong hop aroma from dryhopping or late kettle additions of American hop
varieties. Citrusy hop aroma very common. Esters vary from low to high. Diacetyl moderate to none.
Appearance: Pale golden to amber. Flavor Often moderate to high hop flavor. Citrusy hop flavor very common (such as from Cascades), but also other American hop variety flavors are found. Malt flavor moderate relative to aggressive hop flavor and bitterness. Balance towards bitterness. Caramel flavor is usually restrained. Diacetyl moderate to none.
Mouthfeel: Many are rather light, refreshing and more highly carbonated than other styles, but body can reach medium. Carbonation borders on effervescent in some examples.
Overall Impression: An American adaptation of English Pale Ale.
Comments: American Pale Ales differ from American Amber Ales not only by being lighter in color, but also in having less caramel flavor and usually being balanced more towards hop bitterness. American Pale Ales are often lighter in color than English ones.
History: An American adaptation of English Pale Ale.
Ingredients: Pale Ale malt, typically American 2-row. Light to medium crystal malts. American hops, often the citrusy ones such as Cascade, Centennial and Columbus, but others may also be used (e.g. Brewer's Gold or Willamette). Water can vary in sulfate content, but is often lower than in English versions and the carbonate content should be relatively low.
Vital Statistics: OG: 1.045 - 1.056, FG: 1.010 - 1.015, ABV: 4.5 - 5.7%, IBU: 20 - 40, SRM: 4 - 11.
Commercial Examples: Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. Mad River Steelhead Extra Pale Ale.


CLASS 10. AMERICAN WEST COAST-STYLE BEERS
10.1 West Coast Extra Pale Ale
Aroma: Usually moderate to strong hop aroma from dryhopping or late kettle additions of American hop
varieties. Citrusy hop aroma very common. Esters vary from low to high. Diacetyl moderate to none. Malt aromas tend to be low in relation to the hops.
Appearance: Pale gold to light amber. Head is generally bright white and crispy. Clarity may suffer from a slight hop haze.
Flavor: Flavor is dominated by hop bitterness and flavor with just enough malt to temper the aggressive hop character. Diacetyl is moderate to none.
Mouthfeel: Body is light and brisk with a sharp bracing hop character throughout the palate.
Overall Impression: A brisk, hoppier version of the American Pale Ale.
Comments: This beer presents a similar hop profile to a pale ale or IPA, but with a lighter malt profile to showcase American hops.
History: An offshoot of the American West Coast craft-brewing trend to aggressively hopped beers. This style fills a gap as highly hopped beer that remains low in alcohol.
Ingredients: 2 Row Pale Malt, Light Crystal Malt, American Hops with a tendency towards the citrus character of Cascade, Centennial or Crystal.
Vital Statistics: OG 1.040-1.055, FG 1.008-1.015, ABV 3.5%-5.5%, IBU 35-55, SRM 4-8 .
Commercial Examples: Alesmith X, Mad River Steelhead Xtra Pale Ale, BJ’s West Coast Xtra Pale, Green Flash Extra Pale Ale, SLO Brewing Extra Pale Ale, Three Floyds Extra Pale Ale


The most important thing to extract from the WCPA is "Comments: This beer presents a similar hop profile to a pale ale or IPA, but with a lighter malt profile to showcase American hops."

So I actually think you should stick with the lighter crystal or carapils instead of switching it to the 40L. Firestone Walker makes their Mission St Pale Ale without any true "crystal".

(via EricCSU)

OG 1044
IBUs 12.2
SRM 4.1

3.85kg Pale Malt 80%
720g Munich 15%
240g Carapils 5%

90 minute boil

7g Fuggles 4.75%AA at 90m
7g Chinook 13%AA at 30m
24g Cascade 6% at 0m
24g Centennial 10.5%AA at 0m
24g Centennial dry hop
24g Cascade dry hop

WLP002

Mash at 145F for 60m, 155F for 10m, then mash out

RO Water, gypsum and CaCl to 100ppm

Cool to 17C and pitch, raise to 19C after 24 hours.

Discussion Notes:
IBU is calculated lower due to the 45 minute whirlpool which provides not IBUs according to Rager. However, Chad did not use a long whirlpool, so he changed the hops to Chinook at 60m and Cascade/Centennial at 30m. Chad dry hopped at 5 days in primary and cold crashed at 10 days, kegged at 15 days. He did not that the sample he tasted after crashing did not taste right, but after carbing, that off-flavor went away.


_________________

In your case, you would be omitting the Munich because it can't be steeped (but can be substituted with Munich extract). That would leave just carapils. I think you would be happy with this recipe, because it is not really a beer that should be defined as balance; it is supposed to have a malt bill that does not interfere with the hops you are trying to showcase. The only suggestion I would make is to reconsider the Simcoe as your bittering addition. I think you are better off in this recipe with a clean (like Magnum) or complimentary (like Columbus) bittering or boil addition because the Simcoe's "dankness" may interfere with the citrus from the cascade.

In summary, keep the malt light and simple, aiming for a lower end OG. Choose a utility hop with clean bittering, and drop a citrus bomb at the tail end of the boil. Additions anywhere in the 10/5/0/hot whirlpool will not be mistakes. I also don't think you could be too aggressive with a dry hop. I think 1 oz is a minimum, not a maximum. The hop schedule for the Epic Pale Ale recipe may also be worth looking at. It is another tweener, too hoppy for a traditional American Pale ale, not enough alcohol for an American IPA. His recipe is a little more malt forward than the Mission St, but he crushes with Cascade hops. Here it is.

7g Cascade 7.5%AA at 75m
14g Cascade at 30m
34g Cascade at 10m
42.5g Cascade at 0m
Wait ten minutes
42.5g Cascade - hot whirlpool for 10 more minutes
57g Cascade dry hop dose 1 at ferment temps for 5 days
57g Cascade dry hop dose 2 at cold crash temps for 5 days

Joe
 
First off I want to thank everyone who has helped with their expertise opinion. I have learned more in the past 24 hours then I have when I first started researching my own recipe. Joe you are right I am trying to replicate a West Coast style Pale Ale. Being from California I miss the assorted micro-brews and styles. Now living in GA, I am trying to bring a little home with me. I have to say Kroeger always has a nice selection of SNPA and SN beers. The package stores carry Lagunitas from time to time, and I can find Anchor Steam here and there. I am not a big fan of Sweetwater, but I do like some Terrapin. With that being said here is the revised recipe.

Nor*Cal Pale Ale
Briess Golden Light Liquid Extract
6 lbs, 0 oz

Briess 2 Row Caramel 10
0 lbs, 12 oz

Briess 2 Row Caramel 20
0 lbs, 4 oz

Magnum Pellets, GR
1 oz @ 60 mins

Cascade Pellets
.5 oz @ 10 mins

Cascade Pellets
.5 oz @ 5 mins

Cascade Pellets
1 oz @ Dry Hop

SAFALE US-05 American Ale

According to Brewmasterswarehouse Brew Builder this fits their range

OG FG IBU SRM ABV
1.045 - 1.060 1.010 - 1.015 30 - 45 5 - 14 4.50 - 6.20
1.050 1.013 44.5 5.83 4.85

Beer Smith has my OG @1.042 and my IBU @ 43.9 which makes me low and high respectively.
 

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