New Anvil Bucket Fermentors

[Thorrak]

My 7 gallon came with the latches backwards too. It’s as if the clasp part was underneath the buckle then soldered on. It took a few minutes the get pliers and spread the clasp so I could pull the buckle through. I took pics just in case I broke something in the process.
Other than that everything looks great. I won’t have a chance to brew for a while but will give a proper update/review soon.

Yep, exactly. I reached out to Anvil support and the guy mentioned having seen a similar issue on one of the fermenters they inboxed - I'm guessing one of the people on the assembly line didn't think the installation all the way through. Anvil sent back explaining how to fix it.


Sure enough I was able to pop all the tabs behind the wire bales without much effort. As far as "potential issues" go, this is about as harmless as they get. I'm looking forward to using my fermenter this weekend!

 

[Thorrak]

One of the main reasons I wanted a stainless fermenter was to be able to install a thermowell that I could use with BrewPi. I reached out to Bobby at BrewHardware, and the solution he came up with was to put a thermowell in the lid which would reach down to the liquid line. Sure enough - it works! Definitely looking forward to trying this out soon!

 

[VagueSkunk]

That's exactly what I want to do with mine! What did that thermowell cost you, if you dont mind me asking?

 

[Thorrak]

That's exactly what I want to do with mine! What did that thermowell cost you, if you dont mind me asking?

I think it's this one from BrewHardware ($14) + their "Make Weldless" kit ($4) -- but I'm not sure, tbqh. I actually called BrewHardware directly and just had them figure out what was needed.

Originally, the plan was to have the install the thermowell through the side, right above the valve port. They ended up recommending that we go through the lid instead. I'm glad they did.

 

[VagueSkunk]

Cool, thanks for the links. Did you make the hole in the lid yourself or did you have to find a local shop to do that?

 

[Thorrak]

Cool, thanks for the links. Did you make the hole in the lid yourself or did you have to find a local shop to do that?

Everything was done through BrewHardware, but I think you could likely drill itself as long as you bought the appropriate drill bit.

 

[mtbr_brewer]

Looking at the front, it looks like their is an indention where the ball valve goes. What's the diameter of that? I'd love to put some TC fittings on this, and in my eyes that's a plus over the brew bucket. I don't see how you could put a TC fitting on the cone of the brew bucket.

I'm surprised SSbrewtech or Anvil haven't added a tri-clamp model to their bucket lineups. In my eyes next to going stainless using TC is the most sanitary upgrade for fermenting. I'd love to put a 1.5" TC fitting on the lid and front. That would also open options for thermowells, pressurized transfer, etc.

Anyone asked Anvil if these are pressure rated at all? I'm assuming it would take 1 to 2 psi like the brew bucket for pressurized transfers?

 

[Bowen1911]

For a first stainless fermenter, would you folks say this is better or worse than the SS Brew Bucket?

 

[dcshoeco]

SS Brewtech is definitely better. The Anvil is great for the price though. I have two of each.

 

[Thorrak]

For a first stainless fermenter, would you folks say this is better or worse than the SS Brew Bucket?

For the smaller size, I'd say the Anvil ones are better for the sole reason that the base is permanently attached. The whole "rubber donut" thing that SS Brewtech has going on is annoying, because you can't lift the full fermenter, move it, and set it down without having two of them.

For the bigger model, I can't say.

 

[charger]

What are the chances that Bobby's 1.5" TC weldless bulkhead flange would fit the port in the lid? Looks like a 1 5/8" hole is needed.

If that would work, you could have a plumbed blowoff assembly (possibly to include a thermowell if you sourced the proper fittings) and/or a barbed TC to purge with co2 during transfer to mitigate O2 exposure.

Thoughts?

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15wlf.htm

One of the main reasons I wanted a stainless fermenter was to be able to install a thermowell that I could use with BrewPi. I reached out to Bobby at BrewHardware, and the solution he came up with was to put a thermowell in the lid which would reach down to the liquid line. Sure enough - it works! Definitely looking forward to trying this out soon!

 

[Horseflesh]

The non-foldable handles mean the Anvil just won't fit in the wine fridge that I use for a fermentation chamber. If they revise the design I would certainly consider one.

This is not my photo, but it is exactly the same kind of fridge. It is 18" deep, but only 12" deep at floor level due to the compressor hump.

 

[jekeane]

I have a few brew buckets and love them but was considering a smaller fermenter. I like the lower price point on these but when it came down to it I couldn't find a benefit over using a corny keg with a shortened dip tube.

Only thing I could come up with is cleaning would be a bit easier with the wide mouth of a bucket but thats it.

New 5 gallon ball lock is only $75 and it is already designed to do a closed system pressure transfer.

Am I missing something in regards to the smaller version?

 

[Bowen1911]

For the smaller size, I'd say the Anvil ones are better for the sole reason that the base is permanently attached. The whole "rubber donut" thing that SS Brewtech has going on is annoying, because you can't lift the full fermenter, move it, and set it down without having two of them.

For the bigger model, I can't say.

Smaller size, as in the 4 gallon or so size? That just seems like sacrilege to ferment so little!

 

[Thorrak]

What are the chances that Bobby's 1.5" TC weldless bulkhead flange would fit the port in the lid? Looks like a 1 5/8" hole is needed.

If that would work, you could have a plumbed blowoff assembly (possibly to include a thermowell if you sourced the proper fittings) and/or a barbed TC to purge with co2 during transfer to mitigate O2 exposure.

Thoughts?

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15wlf.htm

Interesting. I’ll take a measurement of the hole tonight!

 

[Thorrak]

The hole is 1.25" wide, so unfortunately it doesn't look like it would work. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

 

[jekeane]

My guess is you could use a green lee hole punch and expand the hole. Catch is the punch costs as much as a fermenter...

I have considered doing that on my brew buckets and then getting a pressure transfer cap but the cost gets a bit silly to me.

 

[Cevan65]

Smaller size, as in the 4 gallon or so size? That just seems like sacrilege to ferment so little!

For some of us who do all grain, we are limited in how much we can boil.

 

[mtbr_brewer]

Couple of points I thought I would bring up.

1.) Using a greenlee punch to expand that hole wouldn't be ideal. Those punches work best with the initial hole in the vessel is the size of the threaded bolt that the punch attaches too. As someone who has used these punches, it would be a little challenging to get the greenlee to stay centered and not slip into the already large hole. It's definitely feasible, but I wouldn't say that it's necessary. I would recommend a step bit since you only need to increase the whole by 3/8". However, I haven't located a cheap step bit going to 1 5/8" or larger.

2.) The weldless version of a tri-clamp would offer you the options of adding pressurized transfers, thermowells, etc. However, you aren't getting any of the sanitary benefits of tri-clamps because it still has internal threads. I realize that a tri-clamp on the lid isn't touching the liquid, but it's still worth mentioning. In my opinion if you aren't going to weld or solder the ferrule I'd just get a couple of rubber bungs and punch holes in those for thermowells, or inlets to add co2, etc.

3.) Bobby's welded ferrule and solder ferrule only require a 1 3/8" hole (amazon has step bits to that size for $8.99), and you would get the benefits of a sanitary tri-clamp attachment. I also just realized that the handles don't fold, so this won't work in my ferm fridge either. However, if it did I would just do a solder ferrule or have someone weld the ferrule on the lid and call it good. If you have a friend that welds stainless you would be in the ferrule for ~$4, the step bit for ~$9, what they charge to weld the fitting, and then your tri-clamp fittings. The solder ferrules are $20 plus the materials to solder if you don't already have them.

Just my thoughts on this since I had been considering until I realized the issue with the handles.

 

[jekeane]

Couple of points I thought I would bring up.

1.) Using a greenlee punch to expand that hole wouldn't be ideal. Those punches work best with the initial hole in the vessel is the size of the threaded bolt that the punch attaches too. As someone who has used these punches, it would be a little challenging to get the greenlee to stay centered and not slip into the already large hole. It's definitely feasible, but I wouldn't say that it's necessary. I would recommend a step bit since you only need to increase the whole by 3/8". However, I haven't located a cheap step bit going to 1 5/8" or larger.

2.) The weldless version of a tri-clamp would offer you the options of adding pressurized transfers, thermowells, etc. However, you aren't getting any of the sanitary benefits of tri-clamps because it still has internal threads. I realize that a tri-clamp on the lid isn't touching the liquid, but it's still worth mentioning. In my opinion if you aren't going to weld or solder the ferrule I'd just get a couple of rubber bungs and punch holes in those for thermowells, or inlets to add co2, etc.

3.) Bobby's welded ferrule and solder ferrule only require a 1 3/8" hole (amazon has step bits to that size for $8.99), and you would get the benefits of a sanitary tri-clamp attachment. I also just realized that the handles don't fold, so this won't work in my ferm fridge either. However, if it did I would just do a solder ferrule or have someone weld the ferrule on the lid and call it good. If you have a friend that welds stainless you would be in the ferrule for ~$4, the step bit for ~$9, what they charge to weld the fitting, and then your tri-clamp fittings. The solder ferrules are $20 plus the materials to solder if you don't already have them.

Just my thoughts on this since I had been considering until I realized the issue with the handles.

I have used the the punch several time to expand holes. While you are right that ideally the pilot hole matching the punch is best it's not difficult to line up and hand tighten the "teeth" of the bit in place. A cheap or dull punch may be another story i suppose.

here is a photo of a kettle I expanded an 1 1/4" box element hole to a 1 5/8" TC element.

 

[MapleGroveAleworks]

Brewed my first batch for it last night, handles very nicely with 6 gallons of wort in it!

 

[appmy]

I brewed my first batch today with my new 7.5g Anvil bucket. Everything went together well and seemed solid. My only complaint is the silicone stopper they included, it has already been cut up from the lid hole. I'll be looking for another drilled stopper and a way to smooth the hole. It is razor sharp right now.

 

[plazola86]

Kegged my first beer out of the 7.5 bucket and the fermentation and kegging went smoothly. Very happy with it easy clean up ready for the next batch. Would recommend to anyone looking for a SS fermenter, for the price I don't think this can be beat.

 

[chris000]

Regarding the handles, Blichmann/Anvil has them front and back on their brew kettles now. For once, no thermometer or spigot hitting me in the stomach or other sensitive area (or is anyone walking around and picks them up from behind). Putting the handles on big pots over some installations instead of the sides is something so simple and cheap that you wonder how little manufacturers care about their products (as long as they sell).
Speaking of it, I love shiny stainless steel, but without a spunding option, I stick with kegs. I hate plastic and broke too many bottles and glass carboys to continue down that route. However, all of these buckets are not convincing me either: They don't have a conical bottom with a true bottom valve and they don't hold pressure, cost at least double of a used corny, no pressurized transfer and are overall not as versatile.
PS: it looks like a one piece valve and an embossed scale; is this how Anvil buckets come?

 

[SLC brewer]

Can these be used to dump trub and yeast so I can use it as a primary and secondary fermentation vessel (i.e. will it eliminate need to transfer to another secondary fermenter?)?

 

[Thorrak]

Can these be used to dump trub and yeast so I can use it as a primary and secondary fermentation vessel (i.e. will it eliminate need to transfer to another secondary fermenter?)?

No. There is no valve on the bottom to use to dump trub/yeast.

 

[Cevan65]

Just brewed my first batch into the four gallon bucket. So far, so good.

 

[AzOr]

Has anyone checked the accuracy of the volume markings?
I thought about it last night as filling it with wort.

Btw- I’m pretty happy with it. My only nitpicks would be the non collapsible side handles and the I would make the handles on the four clasps easier to grab.

 

[ancientmariner52]

View attachment 547072 Just brewed my first batch into the four gallon bucket. So far, so good.

I know I'm a little late, but that milk crate looks ready to collapse. You could cut a piece of plywood to distribute the load better, and avoid disaster. Be safe!

 

[Logan1891]

Just bought two of these yesterday. I hope they fit in my fermentation chamber!

you can fit 2 of the 7.5 gallon fermenters in a 5CF floor freezer?