I went to a local brew it yourself today and used the west coast ipa recipe. I have no idea about home brewing yet so if this post seems dumb or lacks common sense, I should be in the right spot. My concern is this, I boiled my grain then boiled my hops, when that was finished I added some more hops to my container with a pack of yeast. In a nut shell, I was done. Is there supposed to be sugar somewhere? Now again, I know absolutely nothing about home brewing yet, so bare with me please and just let me know if there was supposed to be sugar added of some kind and how long should I let my beer sit now before bottling? I appreciate any replies
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brandonlovesbeer
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Wait. Did you say you "Boiled" the grain?
You must mash the grain around 150°F for around 60 mins then extract the liquid. Then boil that.
Boiling the grain does nothing. The mash converts the starches in the grain to fermentable sugars.
You then add hops during the boil.
Then after the boil you must cool the wort (the liquid) to below 75°. Pitch the yeast and put an air lock in the container.
Once fermentation is completed hen throw in the dry hops.
Eventually bottle.
Alton Brown (Good Eats from the food network) is an idiot in the beer brewing arena. Don't listen to him.
That's the gist without going into great detail.
You must mash the grain around 150°F for around 60 mins then extract the liquid. Then boil that.
Boiling the grain does nothing. The mash converts the starches in the grain to fermentable sugars.
You then add hops during the boil.
Then after the boil you must cool the wort (the liquid) to below 75°. Pitch the yeast and put an air lock in the container.
Once fermentation is completed hen throw in the dry hops.
Eventually bottle.
Alton Brown (Good Eats from the food network) is an idiot in the beer brewing arena. Don't listen to him.
That's the gist without going into great detail.
There must be a hundred west coast IPA recipes so you'll have to get more specific. Did the recipe have malt extract, either dry or liquid?
Some people say "boiled the grains" when they really only steeped them in heated water like they were making tea. Others may have really boiled them. Telling us whether you added extract or not and whether you really boiled the grains will help us determine if this will be an OK batch or total disaster.
Atlmustang
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The simple process is this:
1. Add water to pot. Recipes vary in terms of how much. It depends on grain weight and/or how much malt extract.
2. Bring water to 152-156 degrees. Add grains to muslin sack and tie with knot on the end on the sock to keep grains in the bag and out of your wort. Or add your grains to large bag if BIAB method. Put lid on pot and let sit for 30-60 minutes to steep or mash.
3. Remove grains from pot leaving behind wort. Bring wort to a boil. Make sure your kettle has plenty of room to avoid a hot break boil over which will happen when wort comes to a boil or when first hop addition happens.
4. When wort is boiling add hops. Generally you'll add hops at 60 minutes, 20 minutes, 5 minutes and then at flame out (after you turn the heat off). Typically wort is only boiled for 60 minutes. Any longer and the hops can turn on you in the bitterness department. Hop additions vary from style and recipe so pay attention to your recipes hop schedule.
5. After flameout quickly cool the wort. At the point sanitize everything that will contact the wort with starsan. Metal spoon (do not use plastic or wooden), tubing, hydrometer, air lock, ferm bucket and lid, thermometer...EVERYTHING! You cannot sanitize enough! Hell throw your dog in the san bath (not recommended). Cool the wort by placing the hot kettle in an ice bath in your sink or bath tub or via wort chiller. Cool until the wort reaches 68-72 degrees. Check your yeast pack for optimum pitch temp range. Sanitize the UNOPENED yeast pack. Just need to sanitize the outside packaging.
6. Once wort is cooled to the appropriate level, pour into santizef ferm bucket. Do a hard pour to agitate and add oxygen for healthy yeast. Stir wort vigorously BEFORE PITCHING YEAST to add additional oxygen. Add yeast. Cover with lid. Add santized star san water to air lock and place air lock in lid. Place in cool dark area of home for 14 days then package.
Couple of take aways from that simplified step by step. Do not boil the grains. If you did this, pour out your beer and start over. If you did not santize literally everything that touched the cooled wort, pour out your beer.
Sanitation is numero uno in brewing.
1. Add water to pot. Recipes vary in terms of how much. It depends on grain weight and/or how much malt extract.
2. Bring water to 152-156 degrees. Add grains to muslin sack and tie with knot on the end on the sock to keep grains in the bag and out of your wort. Or add your grains to large bag if BIAB method. Put lid on pot and let sit for 30-60 minutes to steep or mash.
3. Remove grains from pot leaving behind wort. Bring wort to a boil. Make sure your kettle has plenty of room to avoid a hot break boil over which will happen when wort comes to a boil or when first hop addition happens.
4. When wort is boiling add hops. Generally you'll add hops at 60 minutes, 20 minutes, 5 minutes and then at flame out (after you turn the heat off). Typically wort is only boiled for 60 minutes. Any longer and the hops can turn on you in the bitterness department. Hop additions vary from style and recipe so pay attention to your recipes hop schedule.
5. After flameout quickly cool the wort. At the point sanitize everything that will contact the wort with starsan. Metal spoon (do not use plastic or wooden), tubing, hydrometer, air lock, ferm bucket and lid, thermometer...EVERYTHING! You cannot sanitize enough! Hell throw your dog in the san bath (not recommended). Cool the wort by placing the hot kettle in an ice bath in your sink or bath tub or via wort chiller. Cool until the wort reaches 68-72 degrees. Check your yeast pack for optimum pitch temp range. Sanitize the UNOPENED yeast pack. Just need to sanitize the outside packaging.
6. Once wort is cooled to the appropriate level, pour into santizef ferm bucket. Do a hard pour to agitate and add oxygen for healthy yeast. Stir wort vigorously BEFORE PITCHING YEAST to add additional oxygen. Add yeast. Cover with lid. Add santized star san water to air lock and place air lock in lid. Place in cool dark area of home for 14 days then package.
Couple of take aways from that simplified step by step. Do not boil the grains. If you did this, pour out your beer and start over. If you did not santize literally everything that touched the cooled wort, pour out your beer.
Sanitation is numero uno in brewing.
bobeer
Fermentation Specalist
Watch some old Brewing TV episodes on youtube, read The Joy of Homebrewing, read and research this forum. Just read, read, read! You'll get there. It really helps to watch the process and see as many people brew as you can. Everyone has their own process when it comes to creating, and even drinking, the beer we make. Do some homework before your next brew and it'll go much smoother.
As others have said you normally steep your grain. You can boil part of the grain when doing a decoction mash but that's more advanced brewing. Did you brew this at a brew on premises shop?
As others have said you normally steep your grain. You can boil part of the grain when doing a decoction mash but that's more advanced brewing. Did you brew this at a brew on premises shop?
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Atlmustang
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Oh! And welcome the hobby! Enjoy it. This is a wonderful place for help and new ideas!
Was this a kit? If so it should have come with fairly detailed directions which, if followed correctly, should give you decent results, as well as introducing you to the process. If you didn't start with a kit, I'd have to ask, what kind of recipe and instructions were you following?
I consider myself to be just a step above beginner (now doing BIAB) and I would advise anybody starting out to do at least a few brews with a good kit just to get the basics down.
I consider myself to be just a step above beginner (now doing BIAB) and I would advise anybody starting out to do at least a few brews with a good kit just to get the basics down.
brewprint
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As others have asked; was this an extract kit? Can you post your recipe?
Did you chill the liquid before you added the yeast or was it still hot? If it was still hot you killed the yeast.
Did you actually boil grain or just steep like tea and then remove for the boil?
It's a pretty vague post.
Did you chill the liquid before you added the yeast or was it still hot? If it was still hot you killed the yeast.
Did you actually boil grain or just steep like tea and then remove for the boil?
It's a pretty vague post.
tracyk
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The sugar you get from either steeping your grains or mashing them. Not sure if you did what is called an extract kit in which their is liquid malt extract (which has sugar in it) or used somewhere between 9 - 12 pounds of grain that was crushed which will look like cracked wheat to make you beer. There are two processes one which uses steeping grains and liquid malt extract (hence extract kit) or one that uses nothing but grains to produce the nice sugary liquid for the beer.
In an extracted one will steep their grains, usually in a temp between 158-168 depending on the recipe with a certain amount of water. Usually in the gallons measurement. After the steeping is done, one removes the grain bag and brings this mixture to a boil, then turn off the heat and add the liquid malt extract and now bring this mixture (called wort) back to a boil.
Once the boil starts you will begin adding hops at certain intervals. They are usually at 60, 10,5 and possibly flame out.
After this is done you will begin cooling your now said wort until it drops below 70 degrees. You usually want this mixture the same temp that you will be fermenting your mixture (wort). Most ales are fermented between 62 - 72 degrees. Once you get to this temp you will agitate your mixture to induce oxygen, then add your yeast.
In all grain there is no liquid malt extract, so you bring a certain amount of water (once again in gallons) between the temps of 162 - 175, then add your grains and stir them in. This mixture is left to sit maintaining a temp between 148 - 156 for an hour or maybe a little longer. Once this has happened, you will strain off the sugary liquid (now called wort) into another container. You may have added more water to the mashed grains or not depending on the method used at the brew it yourself place. Now you have a sugary liquid (wort) that you will bring to a boil, then add hops, then cool, then add your yeast.
This mixture will sit in a container with what we call an airlock on it, usually filled with sanitized water or vodka. Fermentation will begin within 24 to 48 hours. After about 2 - 4 weeks the beer is ready to be bottled.
And as Atlmustang stated, once the mixtures cools sanitation is your numero uno.
Hope this helps.
In an extracted one will steep their grains, usually in a temp between 158-168 depending on the recipe with a certain amount of water. Usually in the gallons measurement. After the steeping is done, one removes the grain bag and brings this mixture to a boil, then turn off the heat and add the liquid malt extract and now bring this mixture (called wort) back to a boil.
Once the boil starts you will begin adding hops at certain intervals. They are usually at 60, 10,5 and possibly flame out.
After this is done you will begin cooling your now said wort until it drops below 70 degrees. You usually want this mixture the same temp that you will be fermenting your mixture (wort). Most ales are fermented between 62 - 72 degrees. Once you get to this temp you will agitate your mixture to induce oxygen, then add your yeast.
In all grain there is no liquid malt extract, so you bring a certain amount of water (once again in gallons) between the temps of 162 - 175, then add your grains and stir them in. This mixture is left to sit maintaining a temp between 148 - 156 for an hour or maybe a little longer. Once this has happened, you will strain off the sugary liquid (now called wort) into another container. You may have added more water to the mashed grains or not depending on the method used at the brew it yourself place. Now you have a sugary liquid (wort) that you will bring to a boil, then add hops, then cool, then add your yeast.
This mixture will sit in a container with what we call an airlock on it, usually filled with sanitized water or vodka. Fermentation will begin within 24 to 48 hours. After about 2 - 4 weeks the beer is ready to be bottled.
And as Atlmustang stated, once the mixtures cools sanitation is your numero uno.
Hope this helps.
A kit you purchase from the homebrew store may have instructions to add extra sugar to it. There are reasons for this. First, they want to get you to make beer, but don't' want to give you more stuff to brew with, because it costs them more. In addition, most people are going to try brewing a lighter beer, so sugar makes sense in that it thins the beer down by adding mostly alcohol and nothing else. So you get a lighter beer. Sugar is not really commonly added to beer, except for a few styles, such as Belgian.
That said, you "Made" sugar by mashing the grains in warm water. The enzymes in the grain converts the starches into sugars. You then separate the liquid (sweet wort) from the grain. This sweet wort is eaten by the yeast and converted to alcohol and CO2 (mostly those, although there are actually many many other things in small amounts as well.)
Generally you WON'T add sugar to a beer recipe. Most beer styles are made without adding extra sugar.
Also, you don't generally boil your grain either. You mix with warm water to get a temperature of around 153F and let it sit so the enzymes can do their thing. That said, some brewers will boil SOME of their grain and then add it back to the main mash in order to raise the mash temperature. This is called Decoction mashing and was commonly used before malt was highly modified. Some brewers still do this today, to brew some lagers, but most believe that it's an unnecessary and overly-complicated process due to the malts which are produced today.
That said, you "Made" sugar by mashing the grains in warm water. The enzymes in the grain converts the starches into sugars. You then separate the liquid (sweet wort) from the grain. This sweet wort is eaten by the yeast and converted to alcohol and CO2 (mostly those, although there are actually many many other things in small amounts as well.)
Generally you WON'T add sugar to a beer recipe. Most beer styles are made without adding extra sugar.
Also, you don't generally boil your grain either. You mix with warm water to get a temperature of around 153F and let it sit so the enzymes can do their thing. That said, some brewers will boil SOME of their grain and then add it back to the main mash in order to raise the mash temperature. This is called Decoction mashing and was commonly used before malt was highly modified. Some brewers still do this today, to brew some lagers, but most believe that it's an unnecessary and overly-complicated process due to the malts which are produced today.
Hey everyone, thank you all for the comments.. so I steeped the grains not boiled, sorry for that. Then I put into the steeped liquid another liquid that I forgot to mention earlier because I was being rushed at the moment on time. That liquid was thick like molasses and actually there were 2 separate containers of the liquids but looked the same. After mixing the steeped grain liquid and the malt liquid, i brought that to a boil and add my first batch of hops (in pellet form) 30 mins later added some different type of hops for 15 mins (all hops were pellet form) then added some more hops and irish Moss for 15 more mins. Now when I poured this mixture into my container it was roughly 75 degrees, in that container was another oz of hops and a packet of yeast. Air locked and done. Hope that was more detailed and I hope it turns out alright, how long should I let it ferment?
Hey everyone, thank you all for the comments.. so I steeped the grains not boiled, sorry for that. Then I put into the steeped liquid another liquid that I forgot to mention earlier because I was being rushed at the moment on time. That liquid was thick like molasses and actually there were 2 separate containers of the liquids but looked the same. After mixing the steeped grain liquid and the malt liquid, i brought that to a boil and add my first batch of hops (in pellet form) 30 mins later added some different type of hops for 15 mins (all hops were pellet form) then added some more hops and irish Moss for 15 more mins. Now when I poured this mixture into my container it was roughly 75 degrees, in that container was another oz of hops and a packet of yeast. Air locked and done. Hope that was more detailed and I hope it turns out alright, how long should I let it ferment?
No kit, I went to a business where they have everything there you need to brew and brewed my batch. I didn't boil the grains and I did cool the liquid. I'll try a different post the recipe a little later after I can find it and copy it. Thank you for your response
JordanKnudson
Well-Known Member
What you've described there is a fairly standard procedure for an extract kit. (The "thick like molasses" stuff that came with the kit is called liquid malt extract, and this is what provided your brew with the fermentable sugars necessary to let the yeast create beer).
The only exception, I'd say, is that you tossed the extra ounce of hops in at the same time as the yeast. Hops that are used in the fermentor are referred to as "dry hops" (the hops themselves are no different from those used in the boil. This term only refers to the stage in the process at which they are added). Typically, dry hops are added after fermentation is pretty much complete, although certain styles like the Northeast IPA rely on adding them while fermentation is still going on. Since this is what you did, you can expect those hops to add some nice flavor and aroma, but they will also leave compounds that will make your beer look very hazy. Just be aware of that and don't worry if you don't have crystal clear beer at the end.
So, how long do you let it ferment? Well, since you likely don't have a hydrometer to measure the gravity of your beer ("gravity" = amount of sugars in solution, which helps you determine when the beer is finished, as well as the ABV), you will be flying blind on this one. Officially, fermentation is usually complete within a few days to a week. However, you DO NOT want to get impatient and bottle it too early -- that's how you get exploding bottles. The beer won't suffer from a little extra time in the fermentor, as long as you keep it sealed shut until you are ready to bottle. I'd let it sit in there for about 3 weeks to be safe, then bottle (again, this is a conservative time frame, but since you can't measure, better safe than sorry).
When do you add sugar? Well, there are two basic sugar additions. You've already done one during the brewing process by using the malt extract syrup. That isn't just flavoring -- it's your main source of fermentable sugars, without which you really wouldn't have beer. The second sugar addition will happen when you are ready to bottle your beer. You will need to add a measured amount of simple sugar at bottling time (usually corn sugar or table sugar dissolved in boiled water, although sometimes kits give you little pre-made tablets) in order for the beer to carbonate properly in the bottles. The amount of sugar is dependent on the quantity of liquid you actually have at bottling time (this amount is always a bit less than what you started with) and what level of carbonation you want. There are simple calculators online for figuring that out. It will take another couple of weeks in the bottle to have fully carbonated beer (keep it at room temperature; don't put it in the fridge yet or it won't carbonate). Just remember to be cautious. You don't want to go overboard with the sugar and create beer bottle grenades.
All in all, you definitely seem to have succesfully brewed beer. The main thing from here on is to keep your nose out of it while fermentation finishes, then bottle!
EDIT: Just saw the post above, in which you say that it wasn't a "kit." Regardless, the information above applies.
The only exception, I'd say, is that you tossed the extra ounce of hops in at the same time as the yeast. Hops that are used in the fermentor are referred to as "dry hops" (the hops themselves are no different from those used in the boil. This term only refers to the stage in the process at which they are added). Typically, dry hops are added after fermentation is pretty much complete, although certain styles like the Northeast IPA rely on adding them while fermentation is still going on. Since this is what you did, you can expect those hops to add some nice flavor and aroma, but they will also leave compounds that will make your beer look very hazy. Just be aware of that and don't worry if you don't have crystal clear beer at the end.
So, how long do you let it ferment? Well, since you likely don't have a hydrometer to measure the gravity of your beer ("gravity" = amount of sugars in solution, which helps you determine when the beer is finished, as well as the ABV), you will be flying blind on this one. Officially, fermentation is usually complete within a few days to a week. However, you DO NOT want to get impatient and bottle it too early -- that's how you get exploding bottles. The beer won't suffer from a little extra time in the fermentor, as long as you keep it sealed shut until you are ready to bottle. I'd let it sit in there for about 3 weeks to be safe, then bottle (again, this is a conservative time frame, but since you can't measure, better safe than sorry).
When do you add sugar? Well, there are two basic sugar additions. You've already done one during the brewing process by using the malt extract syrup. That isn't just flavoring -- it's your main source of fermentable sugars, without which you really wouldn't have beer. The second sugar addition will happen when you are ready to bottle your beer. You will need to add a measured amount of simple sugar at bottling time (usually corn sugar or table sugar dissolved in boiled water, although sometimes kits give you little pre-made tablets) in order for the beer to carbonate properly in the bottles. The amount of sugar is dependent on the quantity of liquid you actually have at bottling time (this amount is always a bit less than what you started with) and what level of carbonation you want. There are simple calculators online for figuring that out. It will take another couple of weeks in the bottle to have fully carbonated beer (keep it at room temperature; don't put it in the fridge yet or it won't carbonate). Just remember to be cautious. You don't want to go overboard with the sugar and create beer bottle grenades.
All in all, you definitely seem to have succesfully brewed beer. The main thing from here on is to keep your nose out of it while fermentation finishes, then bottle!
EDIT: Just saw the post above, in which you say that it wasn't a "kit." Regardless, the information above applies.
Ok, so you mashed some grains (or steeped if the grains were not the kind that have active enzymes. This would be like Crystal Malts, Roasted Malts, etc.)
And then you added Extract, which is wort that has been created and then concentrated and put into cans or jugs (or barrels, for BOP places (Brew on Premises)).
We call this Extract brewing, or if you ACTUALLY mashed some grains, then "Partial Mash" brewing. Absolutely normal. The difference between steeping and mashing in a partial mash brew is very small, but in essence steeping brings out flavors and mouthfeel and not much else. Actually mashing a base malt brings those and some gravity points that contribute to the food supply for the yeast.
And then you added Extract, which is wort that has been created and then concentrated and put into cans or jugs (or barrels, for BOP places (Brew on Premises)).
We call this Extract brewing, or if you ACTUALLY mashed some grains, then "Partial Mash" brewing. Absolutely normal. The difference between steeping and mashing in a partial mash brew is very small, but in essence steeping brings out flavors and mouthfeel and not much else. Actually mashing a base malt brings those and some gravity points that contribute to the food supply for the yeast.
That looks a lot better than your first post. How long should you let it ferment? Until it is done. You've done your part in creating a nice sugary wort for the yeast to munch on which is what you should do for making beer. Now it is up to the yeast. While most ales finish withing 5 or 6 days sometimes the yeast has a different schedule and you have to let them have the time they want. The only way to be sure it is done is by using a hydrometer. Take a sample at aobut the 2 week time. Take another a couple days to as much as a week later. If they match and are near what the recipe says you are ready to bottle.:rockin:
A first for me happened last week. A stalled ferment. I made 2 batches a day apart. At day 10 the first one was done fermenting and I bottled it. I intended to bottle the second one the same day since although the first one had a slow ferment the second one went crazy but it stalled out and had a higher hydrometer reading than expected and I could see that the surface was agitated as the yeast took off again, Now the hydrometer reading looks right but I'll give it another couple days and take another sample.
brewprint
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Okay great.
It sounds like you did almost everything correctly.
This was extract which is what looked like molasses.
Was this for 5 gallons? If so, did you top it off with water to get to that volume?
It also sounds like the hops that were with the yeast were for dry hopping. In other words, after fermentation (usually 2-7 days after the yeast is put into the fermenter) that's when you add those hops and leave them in there for 5-7 days. That's referred to as dry hopping which imparts a little flavor but more aroma.
Either way, I'm sure the brew will turn out fine. For more hoppy flavor/aroma you could always buy another ounce of hops for dry hopping.
Atlmustang
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Did you sanitize???? Your fermentation bucket needs to be santized.
bobeer
Fermentation Specalist
Sounds like your process was fine. I'd let it ferment for about 14 days then package it.
Make sure you know how much sugar to add when you bottle your beer. A safe bet is 2.2 c02 vol. There are carbonation calculators online if you need help figuring out how much sugar to add and how much c02 fits the style of beer you brewed.
After you bottle let all the beer sit at 70 degrees for 3 weeks to carbonate and condition. Then put a few in the fridge for a few days so the c02 can dissolve into the beer nicely. Then enjoy!
Personally, when I first started brewing, I liked to taste the beer at every step so I learned what "green" unconditioned beer tasted like. Beer changes a whole hell of a lot as it ages and as it conditions out with c02 and knowing how it tastes at the different stages can help you troubleshoot future issues. Just make sure to keep your sanitation in mind whenever you touch the beer.
Make sure you know how much sugar to add when you bottle your beer. A safe bet is 2.2 c02 vol. There are carbonation calculators online if you need help figuring out how much sugar to add and how much c02 fits the style of beer you brewed.
After you bottle let all the beer sit at 70 degrees for 3 weeks to carbonate and condition. Then put a few in the fridge for a few days so the c02 can dissolve into the beer nicely. Then enjoy!
Personally, when I first started brewing, I liked to taste the beer at every step so I learned what "green" unconditioned beer tasted like. Beer changes a whole hell of a lot as it ages and as it conditions out with c02 and knowing how it tastes at the different stages can help you troubleshoot future issues. Just make sure to keep your sanitation in mind whenever you touch the beer.
