New 10 Gallon Herms! Pics!

[The Pol]

Yup, looks good, do it.

 

[JeffNYC]

Minor question: You mention 1/2" spigot for the cooler, I have one now and don't remember the size of the spigot, it looks the same as yours and I did get it at HD a while ago. Do sizes of spigots they differ? I have a 3/8" valve now for my infusion mash, will this accomodate a 1/2" upgrade?

Also, if I understand your process, you recirculate continuously. Do you think that works better for efficiency than an infusion mash that allows grains to be stirred periodically (to ensure each grain is sufficiently exposed to water). Of course, I would see recirculating during the mash out, which I would think would clarify the wort nicely. Probably a pretty basic HERMS question...

Congratulations on the magazine interest, I'm not surprised. Your design looks fairly simple, yet provides a lot of control. (Plus, I may be able to upgrade my existing simple equipment without replacing everything, pending the answer to the first question above.)

 

[The Pol]

I do have all 1/2" plumbing on my system. In the past, I had some 3/8" components and I can say that the difference in flow rates is phenominal. I'd never go back. When deciding to construct a HERMS where there is a lot of pumping and fluid flow, I wanted to be sure to make that flow as unrestricted as possible. I have 1/2" ball valves, HERMS coil, hoses, QDs... and like I said, my flows are double that of my old 3/8" setup.

Ball valve sizes do differ greatly, there are many sizes. Any beverage cooler CAN accomodate 1/2" components, but the bulkhead will have to be rebuilt to accomodate the larger size.

I dont understand the question about your "infusion mash spigot upgrade"...

I do recirculate continuously. The grains are stirred well when I strike, any dough balls are thoroughly broken up. I dont think that the recirculation affects the efficiency at all... if anything it keeps water circulating through the mash, it keeps currents flowing, creating a more homogenous mash which I see as beneficial.

I do recirculate constantly... HERMS works best that way. I am able to hold my mash temps within .5F during any lenghth of mash, in any weather. I also do not have to worry about stirring the mash to keep the temps homogenous. I do not have to worry about slightly undershooting or overshooting my strike temp. I start the pump, I walk away... 60 minutes later I return and the mash is complete and still within .5F of my set point. The point of a HERMS and of my system is consistency and ease of use. After 30 minutes the wort is just as clear as BMC is in the bottle...

Repeatability, reliability (why I built my own bulkheads and cooler thermometers), ease of use and affordability were all major components in my build. I spent months planning, and tossed about 5 different ideas for a HERMS build before settling on this one. It works for me, and a couple others who are RUNNING it with my HERMS software... a few more are in the building stages. Your needs may be different, and that is ok... I hope I can help in any case.

I have been trading emails and pictures with the magazine about once a day for the past several days... the editor sayes she will be getting back to me soon? Hopefully that is a good sign. Id frame that issue.

 

[The Pol]

Here is the email I sent to them when they asked for more pics and a more detailed description. Hopefully it holds thier interest.

XXXXX,

Thank you (and your magazine) for your interest in my rig! It has been an ongoing evolution from a simple 5 gallon Rubbermaid AG system that I used in my kitchen, with water heated on the stove... to an all electric HERMS that utilizes 10 gallon Rubbermaid coolers and a 15.5 gallon Sankey for the BK.
Here is a brief description of the major components:

HLT: 10 Gallon Rubbermaid beverage cooler converted to HERMS HEX with a 1/2" ball valve bulkhead (custom as many commercial models leak). It consists of a 1500W 120VAC heating element that is controlled by a Johnson A419 controller that is mounted to the cooler itself. I fashioned my own stopper/thermo well that passes through the lid and sourced parts for a 120VAC HLT stirrer. The HLT HEX contains 25' of 1/2" copper tubing (a modified pre-chiller) that is outfitted with brass QDs. It also sports a custom through the wall digital thermometer (my solution to leaky commercial models). ALL plumbing on my rig is 1/2", the flow rates are far superior to 3/8" plumbing. This vessel is used for strike water, sparge water, HERMS re circulation to hold mash temps and used to heat the mash to mashout temps.

MLT: 10 Gallon Rubbermaid beverage cooler converted to a MLT with a 1/2" ball valve bulkhead (custom), SS false bottom, through the wall digital thermometer (custom) and a HERMS/FLY sparge return line that is plumbed through the lid for superior heat retention. Mash temps are maintained within .5F during any length of mash.

BK: 15.5 gallon (legal) Sankey keg that has been converted to an E-Keggle. It is outfitted with a 1/2" ball valve, custom pick-up tube, 5500W ULWD heating element and thermocouple.

Software: This rig, as in any rig, has specific temperature differentials, fluid loss, heating times etc. In order to manage all of these aspects I created a spreadsheet that asks the brewer for specific information about the brew. Strike temps, volumes etc. are entered and crucial values are computed for the brewer to manage the system during the brew session. This allows the brewer to effectively plan HLT water quantities, temps and view resultant heating times that may be of concern when step mashing.

All of the components are powered through a custom 240VAC control panel that I built. It consists of a PID and SSR for the E-Keggle heating control. It also contains switched outlets for the HLT and March 809 pump on my rig. It also contains a "kill" switch that will kill both legs of power to the E-Keggle heating element regardless of what the PID and SSR command.

The E-Keggle heating element is my own design, with a fully insulated collar and entirely potted electrical connections, making it safe for use on a boil kettle where boil overs can happen. It can be submerged in water with no voltage leak.

All liquid connections are made with brass QDs.

My design philosophy all along has been simplicity, efficiency, affordability and repeatability. I have built my own bulkheads and through the wall thermometers for affordability and reliability reasons. When possible I have sourced components to build items needed for this rig in lieu of purchasing commercial components when cost and design allowed.

I am a member of Homebrewtalk.com and have posted loads of information about my build over the past couple years as it evolved. (instructions, part numbers, suppliers, design philosophy, cost etc) Currently there are several other members building exact replicas of my system, one is actually brewing on it already. I have been tech support for these guys and provided them with the software to run this rig effectively in their own garages.

I will attach some photos, AND a link to my Photobucket account where you can see many more pictures. Please let me know if you have continued interest and if there is anything else you would like!

 

[JeffNYC]

I dont understand the question about your "infusion mash spigot upgrade"...

I think you answered it, I can replace my existing 3/8" with a 1/2" setup--this will fit my existing 10 gallon cooler without having to drill a bigger hole which I don't want to do. I assume I'll have to also replace the elbow barb on my newly purchased false bottom to 1/2" also...

 

[The Pol]

Hrmmm, mine was 1/2".... maybe you will have to?

 

[Stile]

Here is the email I sent to them when they asked for more pics and a more detailed description. Hopefully it holds thier interest.

XXXXX,

Thank you (and your magazine) for your interest in my rig! It has been an ongoing evolution from a simple 5 gallon Rubbermaid AG system that I used in my kitchen, with water heated on the stove... to an all electric HERMS that utilizes 10 gallon Rubbermaid coolers and a 15.5 gallon Sankey for the BK.
Here is a brief description of the major components:

HLT: 10 Gallon Rubbermaid beverage cooler converted to HERMS HEX with a 1/2" ball valve bulkhead (custom as many commercial models leak). It consists of a 1500W 120VAC heating element that is controlled by a Johnson A419 controller that is mounted to the cooler itself. I fashioned my own stopper/thermo well that passes through the lid and sourced parts for a 120VAC HLT stirrer. The HLT HEX contains 25' of 1/2" copper tubing (a modified pre-chiller) that is outfitted with brass QDs. It also sports a custom through the wall digital thermometer (my solution to leaky commercial models). ALL plumbing on my rig is 1/2", the flow rates are far superior to 3/8" plumbing. This vessel is used for strike water, sparge water, HERMS re circulation to hold mash temps and used to heat the mash to mashout temps.

MLT: 10 Gallon Rubbermaid beverage cooler converted to a MLT with a 1/2" ball valve bulkhead (custom), SS false bottom, through the wall digital thermometer (custom) and a HERMS/FLY sparge return line that is plumbed through the lid for superior heat retention. Mash temps are maintained within .5F during any length of mash.

BK: 15.5 gallon (legal) Sankey keg that has been converted to an E-Keggle. It is outfitted with a 1/2" ball valve, custom pick-up tube, 5500W ULWD heating element and thermocouple.

Software: This rig, as in any rig, has specific temperature differentials, fluid loss, heating times etc. In order to manage all of these aspects I created a spreadsheet that asks the brewer for specific information about the brew. Strike temps, volumes etc. are entered and crucial values are computed for the brewer to manage the system during the brew session. This allows the brewer to effectively plan HLT water quantities, temps and view resultant heating times that may be of concern when step mashing.

All of the components are powered through a custom 240VAC control panel that I built. It consists of a PID and SSR for the E-Keggle heating control. It also contains switched outlets for the HLT and March 809 pump on my rig. It also contains a "kill" switch that will kill both legs of power to the E-Keggle heating element regardless of what the PID and SSR command.

The E-Keggle heating element is my own design, with a fully insulated collar and entirely potted electrical connections, making it safe for use on a boil kettle where boil overs can happen. It can be submerged in water with no voltage leak.

All liquid connections are made with brass QDs.

My design philosophy all along has been simplicity, efficiency, affordability and repeatability. I have built my own bulkheads and through the wall thermometers for affordability and reliability reasons. When possible I have sourced components to build items needed for this rig in lieu of purchasing commercial components when cost and design allowed.

I am a member of Homebrewtalk.com and have posted loads of information about my build over the past couple years as it evolved. (instructions, part numbers, suppliers, design philosophy, cost etc) Currently there are several other members building exact replicas of my system, one is actually brewing on it already. I have been tech support for these guys and provided them with the software to run this rig effectively in their own garages.

I will attach some photos, AND a link to my Photobucket account where you can see many more pictures. Please let me know if you have continued interest and if there is anything else you would like!

All this.... and he still needs help programming the VCR (yes i understand it's an old reference)

 

[The Pol]

Ha ha Stile... very funny mang... very.

 

[JeffNYC]

My 10 gallon cooler is Igloo, not Rubbermaid. May not accomodate 1/2" valve without modification. Anyone successful with the Igloo? (I followed another set of instructions for my brass 3/8" valve set up for simple infusion mash, recently upgrading it with a false bottom).

 

[The Pol]

The Igloo should be able to accomodate a 1/2" pipe nipple as well.

 

[The Pol]

Uploaded more pics of my Brew Beast in my gallery... showing a little more detail on the HLT lid and such.

 

[JeffNYC]

If you have a minute, can you help me understand some basic construction issues here?

1) Re: heat exchange coil, does one really need to cut it? Or can one unscrew the garden hose connection and connect the QD to the existing pipe fitting? (I don't have tools to cut copper.)

2) Are the white rubber stoppers OK? Or should one use silicon? I would think rubber is not desirable in direct contact with hot water/wort.

3) What is the JB Weld for? Does one need to have advanced electrical skills to put this together? (Probably should have asked this first before getting interested in this system.)

4) Can you confirm you need a 1/2" elbow nipple from false bottom in mash tun? Right now I have 3/8", but thought that would restrict the flow too much.

 

[JeffNYC]

Tried to put all parts in, including valve assemblies and pump valves, maybe you can use this for the magazine. I know it's not exactly right, as I see you have an elbow connector at the top of the HLT. I have it in Excel, for Qty * Amt for a total cost:

Qty Item
1 Stand?
1 Megapot 10 gallon brew kettle, with spigot
1 Hurricane burner
2 10 gallon coolers
1 Johnson controller (A419)
1 March pump (809HS-PL)
1 25 foot 1/2" copper tubing coil
1 1" Thermowell stopper (or crimped corny pickup tube)
2 1" Solid stoppers
2 Thermometers
1 120v 1500w water heater element
1 JB Weld
1 Wire and plug for water heater element
1 1x SS 1" nut
1 1" PVC tubing (2"?)
1 1.25" hole saw
12 12 ft heat resistant tubing (1/2 ID)
6 [1/2"] stainless hose clamps
2 50915K328 2 Each Standard Brass Compression Tube Fitting, Adapter For 1/2" Tube Od X 1/2" Nptf Male Pipe
3 50785K94 3 Each Med-pressure Extruded Brass Thrd Pipe Fitting, 1/2" Pipe Size, Hex Coupling, 1-3/16" Length
7 6739K59 High Flow Hose Coupling For Coolant, Plug, 1/2" Nptf Male, 3/8"
6 6739K64 High Flow Hose Coupling For Coolant, Sleeve-lck Sckt X Barb, 3/8"cplg Sz,1/2"hose Id
1 6142K49 Ac Gearmotor W/fan, Face Mnt, 100 Rpm, 7 In-lbs Torque, 115 Vac
1 34935K66 Polypropylene Propeller With Shaft U-shaped Blade, 2-1/2" DIA.
1 6099K22 Stainless Steel One-piece Set-screw Coupling 5/16" Bore, 1" Length, 5/8" Od, Without Keyway
2 10095K12 Loc-Line Any-Which-Way Coolant Hose 1/2" ID, 12" Length W/ Connectors & Round Nozzles
2 1/2" x 1/2" FPT x Barb female adapter
2 A-836 1/2"MIP x 1 1/2" Brass pipe nipple
4 3/4" SS flat washer
4 1 1/8" OD x 5/8" ID rubber grommets
4 1/2" threaded ball valve
2 1/2" x 1/2" MPT x barb Male adapter
1 Teflon Tape (for all threads)
1 1/2" elbow barb with nut for false bottom

 

[slimer]

If you have a minute, can you help me understand some basic construction issues here?

1) Re: heat exchange coil, does one really need to cut it? Or can one unscrew the garden hose connection and connect the QD to the existing pipe fitting? (I don't have tools to cut copper.)

A pipe cutting tool is very inexpensive, maybe $4.

2) Are the white rubber stoppers OK? Or should one use silicon? I would think rubber is not desirable in direct contact with hot water/wort.

Why wouldn't they be ok?

3) What is the JB Weld for? Does one need to have advanced electrical skills to put this together? (Probably should have asked this first before getting interested in this system.)

JB Weld "sticks" two metal pieces together. It's like glue/epoxy for metals.

4) Can you confirm you need a 1/2" elbow nipple from false bottom in mash tun? Right now I have 3/8", but thought that would restrict the flow too much.

Many people use 3/8, but 1/2 just flows better.

 

[The Pol]

Tried to put all parts in, including valve assemblies and pump valves, maybe you can use this for the magazine. I know it's not exactly right, as I see you have an elbow connector at the top of the HLT. I have it in Excel, for Qty * Amt for a total cost:

Qty Item
1 Stand?
1 Megapot 10 gallon brew kettle, with spigot
1 Hurricane burner
2 10 gallon coolers
1 Johnson controller (A419)
1 March pump (809HS-PL)
1 25 foot 1/2" copper tubing coil
1 1" Thermowell stopper (or crimped corny pickup tube)
2 1" Solid stoppers
2 Thermometers
1 120v 1500w water heater element
1 JB Weld
1 Wire and plug for water heater element
1 1x SS 1" nut
1 1" PVC tubing (2"?)
1 1.25" hole saw
12 12 ft heat resistant tubing (1/2 ID)
6 [1/2"] stainless hose clamps
2 50915K328 2 Each Standard Brass Compression Tube Fitting, Adapter For 1/2" Tube Od X 1/2" Nptf Male Pipe
3 50785K94 3 Each Med-pressure Extruded Brass Thrd Pipe Fitting, 1/2" Pipe Size, Hex Coupling, 1-3/16" Length
7 6739K59 High Flow Hose Coupling For Coolant, Plug, 1/2" Nptf Male, 3/8"
6 6739K64 High Flow Hose Coupling For Coolant, Sleeve-lck Sckt X Barb, 3/8"cplg Sz,1/2"hose Id
1 6142K49 Ac Gearmotor W/fan, Face Mnt, 100 Rpm, 7 In-lbs Torque, 115 Vac
1 34935K66 Polypropylene Propeller With Shaft U-shaped Blade, 2-1/2" DIA.
1 6099K22 Stainless Steel One-piece Set-screw Coupling 5/16" Bore, 1" Length, 5/8" Od, Without Keyway
2 10095K12 Loc-Line Any-Which-Way Coolant Hose 1/2" ID, 12" Length W/ Connectors & Round Nozzles
2 1/2" x 1/2" FPT x Barb female adapter
2 A-836 1/2"MIP x 1 1/2" Brass pipe nipple
4 3/4" SS flat washer
4 1 1/8" OD x 5/8" ID rubber grommets
4 1/2" threaded ball valve
2 1/2" x 1/2" MPT x barb Male adapter
1 Teflon Tape (for all threads)
1 1/2" elbow barb with nut for false bottom

HOLY COW... truthfully since I have built this rig over the past couple years, and been through several versions, it is hard to tell EXACTLY what is in it

Still standing by on the magazine... not sure EXACTLY what they want to run if they do spotlight my rig.

 

[The Pol]

If you have a minute, can you help me understand some basic construction issues here?

1) Re: heat exchange coil, does one really need to cut it? Or can one unscrew the garden hose connection and connect the QD to the existing pipe fitting? (I don't have tools to cut copper.)

2) Are the white rubber stoppers OK? Or should one use silicon? I would think rubber is not desirable in direct contact with hot water/wort.

3) What is the JB Weld for? Does one need to have advanced electrical skills to put this together? (Probably should have asked this first before getting interested in this system.)

4) Can you confirm you need a 1/2" elbow nipple from false bottom in mash tun? Right now I have 3/8", but thought that would restrict the flow too much.

1) It needs to be cut... the tubing extending vertically to the garden hose fittings is #1 too tall and #2 soldered together near the ends making it impossible to make a nice tight fitting hole around the tubes where they exit the lid. I wanted to have the connections right above the lid and wanted to have 2 nice tight holes around the in and out tubes. Which, you cannot do without cutting the copper tubing. SMALL expense to get a tool, considering this rig cost me about $2000.

2) Well, I have used the gum stoppers for a couple years and not noticed anything off? IMHO they are fine, but as with any build, you are welcome to source different parts if yuo desire (silicone, SS etc...)

3) I have NO advanced electrical knowlege... none. My wife would say that I am more intelligent than the average guy on my street... but if you can read, you can build this. You just need to ask questions, that is how I did it. The JB weld is used for POTTING the electrical connections on the heating element. It has good dielectric properties and is capable of encasing the connections in a water and heat resistant block of epoxy.

4) You do not NEED 1/2" elbow from your false bottom. You are never going to use FULL PORT flow from the MLT anyway, right? All other plumbing I would suggest being 1/2".

If you are building and have ANY questions, I am more than happy to answer them. This build is a little complex and it is hard for anyone to sift through hundreds of posts to pull out the information that they want or need.

 

[gsutton]

Hey Super Pol,

I originally ordered 1/4" loc-line, so I didn't even open the package. I finally got the 1/2" and tried to put it together. Did I get the wrong size grey coupler for the beginning of the line, or was yours impossible to snap together? I actually ruined the first blue piece and had to remove it. The 4 blue sections snapped together and the orange tip as well. If you found a trick let me know otherwise I must have the wrong size.

 

[The Pol]

TRICK:

BOIL THE TWO PARTS FIRST! They are nearly impossible to lock together!

 

[gsutton]

You are my hero

 

[The Pol]

"Its a Cinderella Story...."

 

[gsutton]

Classic!!!

 

[JeffNYC]

What is the downside of setting up the temperature controller probe to the mash tun, either input or output (input probably better to avoid over shooting). I was thinking this would avoid the need to monitor the HLT and for a HLT stirrer, since the output of through the heat exchanger would reflect the result of the heated water (regardless of hot spots)? Would this be an issue during sparging with the potential for hot spots? If this would work, what components can one use to connect the probe to monitor the mash/water temperature at the exit of the heat exchange (for the probe, another one could be used for the output of the mash tun)? Like McMaster 3957K65?

Any thoughts on the Ranco ETC-111000-000? Did you get yours prewired or did you wire it yourself? If one can wire in the water heater, presumably one can do this also.

 

[JeffNYC]

For infusion mashes, you get 2F per minute? Do you find that adequate? Looking to start buying parts now that I have a pretty good list.

 

[The Pol]

Sorry, looks like I missed a couple posts here.

#1. The downwside of placing your temp probe in the MLT, or anywhere too far down line in the process form the HEX is that you increase the chance of an overshoot. People generally have excellent results when placing the temp probe in the HEX, or at the outlet of the HEX. There is really no reason to have the temp probe in the MLT, it is not as accurate at measuring wort temp there.

#2. You still want a way to stir the HLT water. If you do not, you will have a less conrollable HEX. You will have hot and cold spots and temperature stratification that you cannot control. When the temp is homogenous, you KNOW that there is even heating and you KNOW that the heat from the element is being effectively transferred to the coil. Otherwise the coil will create a cold spot, the element a hot spot... this reducing your level of control in the system. IMHO

#3. You could use a "t" and a compression fitting or something to get the probe into the output flow of the HEX. There is really little reason to measure the temp of the MLT output, if you are controlling the temp of the input.

#4. I dont know anything about the Ranco, but I did get my JC A419 pre-wired. I would suggest not hard wiring anything into anything. My A419 PLUGS into my control panel and my element PLUGS into my A419. This helps to make the parts more user friendly when cleaning, repairing, updating, moving, anything.

 

[The Pol]

For infusion mashes, you get 2F per minute? Do you find that adequate? Looking to start buying parts now that I have a pretty good list.

Okay, well when I start my system it takes about 90 minutes to get the full HLT up to temp. Strike + 15F... There is a reason for the smaller element, it is lengh, ammount of water required to keep it submerged...etc. Works for ME, but because I heat that tank while eating breakfast and getting things ready.

If I step mash... it is generally a protien rest so I simply mash in at 122F. During that rest, 20 min, I DO NOT recirculate and heat my HLT to 158F or so. Then then the protien rest is complete, I recirculate to heat the mash. This is all that you can do, since OVERheating the HLT is not recommended because again of denaturing enzymes and overshooting your MLT temp.

 

[JeffNYC]

Sorry, looks like I missed a couple posts here.

#1. The downwside of placing your temp probe in the MLT, or anywhere too far down line in the process form the HEX is that you increase the chance of an overshoot. People generally have excellent results when placing the temp probe in the HEX, or at the outlet of the HEX. There is really no reason to have the temp probe in the MLT, it is not as accurate at measuring wort temp there.

#2. You still want a way to stir the HLT water. If you do not, you will have a less conrollable HEX. You will have hot and cold spots and temperature stratification that you cannot control. When the temp is homogenous, you KNOW that there is even heating and you KNOW that the heat from the element is being effectively transferred to the coil. Otherwise the coil will create a cold spot, the element a hot spot... this reducing your level of control in the system. IMHO

#3. You could use a "t" and a compression fitting or something to get the probe into the output flow of the HEX. There is really little reason to measure the temp of the MLT output, if you are controlling the temp of the input.

#4. I dont know anything about the Ranco, but I did get my JC A419 pre-wired. I would suggest not hard wiring anything into anything. My A419 PLUGS into my control panel and my element PLUGS into my A419. This helps to make the parts more user friendly when cleaning, repairing, updating, moving, anything.

I see the need for only measuring temps from the heat exchange output, that's what I was looking into, measuring the heat coming out of the coil in the HLT into the MT (I was looking for a T, although I can't find a part that looks like it works with the thermowells on McMaster). I was thinking of measuring the output of the MT also (or input into the coil of the HLT), just for information on the temperature difference (similar to what you do).

However, your clarification pointed out (now obvious) that my suggestion would require recirculation for the heating element to work. I can see cases of not running a recirculation, such as the example you pointed out above, and others.

I was thinking of hard wiring the plugs myself, but if you didn't, it doesn't make sense for me to try to either. One less thing to do (especially that involves electricity).

As for tools, what else do you need besides a 1 1/4" hole saw and 2" hole saw (I have 2 1/2" I assume that is OK) for the heating element? 1/2" for HE? 1" for stoppers (thermowell, thermometer)? Others?

 

[The Pol]

Those hole saws and drills should work! Did you check out my video? Some of the pics may help too!

 

[planenut]

I may have missed it somewhere but am wondering what kind of flow rate you want when recirculating the mash?

I'm guessing you would want it to be similar to fly sparging at around 1 qt per minute but that seems really restrictive on the pump.

Just curious what rate and how you achieve that rate with the pump?

Thanks

 

[missing link]

I have a similar set-up to POL. I initially tried to recirc very slowly and what I found is that my system would call for heat and heat the liquid in the heat exchanger to my set temp and switch off, it would then take a few minutes to purge the heated wort out and bring in enough cool wort to trigger the system on. It was difficult to maintain temps this way and almost impossible to increase the temp with any type of speed.

I have since learned that once you are doughed in and you have a slow recirc going, I can actually open the pump up to full flow. At full flow rates, my element can turn on and stay on until the mash reaches set temp. As long as the mash outlet is below the set temp on my system, my element stays on. I am very happy with this set-up now.

Linc

 

[The Pol]

I dont have a particular flow rate really. I run it at about half flow when I am recirculating. Now, if I am stepping up, I may open it up further, maybe even full open... I just sorta wing it!