NEIPA dont’s

[couchsending]

Mash ph of 5.4ish and I don’t take readings at kettle or fermenter. Can you explain what I should be looking for?

I would suggest measuring your PH all
along the way... it can have a huge impact on bitterness, clarity of flavor, fermentation, etc. 5.4 might be fine for conversion but 5.2 has a lot of benefits as well. Biggest thing is making sure your Sparge h2o Ph is inline and it stays low all the way through sparging.

 

[TimmyWit]

Don’t use wheat
Don’t use Oats
Don’t do low heat whirlpool additions
Don’t use a lot of CaCl
Don’t dry hop at High Krausen
Don’t use 1318
Don’t use Conan

Basically all the things everyone thinks you’re supposed to do. Best ones in the world don’t do any of those things.

Question the narrative. Don’t just follow the heard.

If the haze doesn't come from adjuncts or dry hopping at high krausen, please do provide your explanation for the cause of haze that trumps the rationale provided by Scott Janish and Randy Mosher.

In case you haven't seen that article and podcast I'll sum it up for you:

- Randy Mosher discusses it coming from the adjuncts just like a wit

- Scott Janish discusses the relationship between proteins in the grist binding to polyphenols as a result of bio-hopping and causing permanent haze

- There is also a theory about hop oils coating yeast cells causing some of them to remain in suspension but that would also be a result of high krausen dry hopping

Granted, the haze is not the most important part of the style but it is widely accepted that the haze is a result of the process to brew these. If the haze isn't cause by any of the above, what causes it in your opinion?

 

[couchsending]

That podcast was a joke. I turned it off after 10 minutes. He recommends 50% unmalted adjuncts... 50%! That right there means he’s not worth listening to.

No Flaked adjuncts or malted wheat/oats in any core Treehouse beer. Max 15% wheat in Trillium street beers, according to the man himself. Permutation 31,32,33, no adjuncts yet permahaze.

Tons of adjuncts equals beer that degrades at an alarming rate and frankly tastes like sh**. There are other ways to do it and make better tasting beer that will be more stable over time.

 

[jlinz]

What happens if I just do a hop stand at 170 with my hops? So, no hop additions during the boil at all?

 

[TimmyWit]

That podcast was a joke. I turned it off after 10 minutes. He recommends 50% unmalted adjuncts... 50%! That right there means he’s not worth listening to.

No Flaked adjuncts or malted wheat/oats in any core Treehouse beer. Max 15% wheat in Trillium street beers, according to the man himself. Permutation 31,32,33, no adjuncts yet permahaze.

Tons of adjuncts equals beer that degrades at an alarming rate and frankly tastes like sh**. There are other ways to do it and make better tasting beer that will be more stable over time.

Ok, I see. Don't do what everyone else is having success with. Randy Mosher doesn't know what he's talking about although his NE IPA's seem pretty well received.

50% adjuncts is the standard in a Wit beer. Those don't degrade at an alarming rate or taste like crap. Granted, for a NE IPA 50% adjuncts may drive the protein content a bit high but that can be countered with kettle finings like Tonsmeire showed us. I hope you're not going to tell us that he doesn't know what he's doing either.

Yes, you can achieve haze without adjuncts and I have even brewed one that way myself. I'll point you back to the Scott Janish article for an explanation of what's going on there. All I'm saying is there's more than one way to skin a cat so to come on here and say don't do all these things that people are doing with the style based on something you read about 2 pro-brewers take on it is ridiculous. As someone in this thread previously said, "don't follow the herd".

 

[couchsending]

Wits don’t “degrade” because they don’t have 4# per barrel of dry hops in them. A beer meant to be crazy hoppy that just plain isn’t after a short period of time is the definition of degraded. The overuse of adjuncts is one of the biggest reasons why. With wits there’s a lot less to “degrade”

The 2 Pro brewers I referenced happen to be the two leading producers of the style that people are trying to emulate. I would say they are the ones worth listening to versus homebrewers with blogs. Have you ever had Michael Tonsmeir’s or Scott Janish’s beers? I’m sure they’re good but using them as a reference cause they have awesome homebrew blogs isn’t what I would do. I’d use the breweries that are the producing the references for the product.

This “style” to me has become a joke, people thinking they know how to brew beers like the brewers that inadvertnatly “invented” the style when those folks aren’t doing any of those things.

Do your own research, do your own experiments. There’s other ways to make these beers than what a bunch of homebrewers tell you they think is the right way.

 

[TimmyWit]

Do your own research, do your own experiments. There’s other ways to make these beers than what a bunch of homebrewers tell you they think is the right way.

This is pretty much the point I'm trying to get across to you. I have done my own research and my own experiments. I have had success with and without adjuncts. Take a slice of your own advice; there are other ways to make these beers than how 2 brewers tell you they do it. Don't come in here with a handful of things you can't do just to take a contrarian stance when in fact, many of us have had success doing many of the things you think you can't get away with.

And to your point about using breweries as a reference, the NE IPA's that Randy Mosher's brewery are turning out have been pretty well received so again, take your own advice and revisit that podcast rather than dismiss it after 10 minutes.

I find it ironic that you come in here and state "there's other ways to make these beers..." when you're being so closed-minded about it. I prefer to soak up all the information I can whether from home-brewers or pro-brewers while experimenting as much as possible. Jim Koch asked his scientists to figure this style out and they told him there are too many variables and the best way to do it is just keep experimenting. There is a lot we don't yet know about the style but I suppose we should just point the scientists your way since you have it nailed.

edit: FYI, Janish and Tonsmeire are in the process of opening a brewery and also served a NE IPA recently at a fest which was well received. I think they're pretty credible sources.

 

[Sbe2]

Wits don’t “degrade” because they don’t have 4# per barrel of dry hops in them. A beer meant to be crazy hoppy that just plain isn’t after a short period of time is the definition of degraded. The overuse of adjuncts is one of the biggest reasons why. With wits there’s a lot less to “degrade”

The 2 Pro brewers I referenced happen to be the two leading producers of the style that people are trying to emulate. I would say they are the ones worth listening to versus homebrewers with blogs. Have you ever had Michael Tonsmeir’s or Scott Janish’s beers? I’m sure they’re good but using them as a reference cause they have awesome homebrew blogs isn’t what I would do. I’d use the breweries that are the producing the references for the product.

This “style” to me has become a joke, people thinking they know how to brew beers like the brewers that inadvertnatly “invented” the style when those folks aren’t doing any of those things.

Do your own research, do your own experiments. There’s other ways to make these beers than what a bunch of homebrewers tell you they think is the right way.

You are kinda sounding like the NEIPA haters, whether you are intentionally doing it idk. There is no need to shout down ppl who want to add adjuncts or w/e. I think a milkshake NEIPA sounds terrible, but if that’s what one likes, brew it.

The top breweries may not add adjuncts, but they also have the equipment, ingredients, and knowledge that most of us home brewers do not have. If we cheat a little to produce similar results, then I say go for it.

 

[TimmyWit]

The top breweries may not add adjuncts, but they also have the equipment, ingredients, and knowledge that most of us home brewers do not have. If we cheat a little to produce similar results, then I say go for it.

The thing is, they DO use adjuncts; just not EVERY brewery on EVERY beer. He knows it too. He even contradicts himself by saying "don't use wheat". Then he goes and cites one of his heroes as using up to 15% wheat

Don’t use wheat

No Flaked adjuncts or malted wheat/oats in any core Treehouse beer. Max 15% wheat in Trillium street beers, according to the man himself.

 

[Moose_MI]

I would suggest measuring your PH all
along the way... it can have a huge impact on bitterness, clarity of flavor, fermentation, etc. 5.4 might be fine for conversion but 5.2 has a lot of benefits as well. Biggest thing is making sure your Sparge h2o Ph is inline and it stays low all the way through sparging.

I have a breweasy ... kettle rims .... no sparge

 

[couchsending]

The thing is, they DO use adjuncts; just not EVERY brewery on EVERY beer. He knows it too. He even contradicts himself by saying "don't use wheat". Then he goes and cites one of his heroes as using up to 15% wheat

Heroes? Give me a break dude. Just referencing the highest regarded producers of the style, you know the ones that put it on the radar. If you’re going to use something as a reference why not use the best, the ones considered the best by the most people. The beers everyone else is trying to copy. And for me the Trillium beers don’t hold a candle to Treehouse and Hill Farmstead in terms of overall execution. They are Hop sledge hammers and the example of what total hop saturation tastes and smells like but they are not as refined or polished.

The first post was meant to be for shock value cause it’s different than what everyone is saying. I’m saying it can be done and be done better ImHo without all the things people think are necessary to produce the style. The goal is to get people to think out of the box and not just follow the heard. You will make better beer and learn a hell of a lot more about how to make better beer by doing your own research.

This style is defined by myths created by others trying to copy it. And it shows in all the horrible executions of the “style” produced all over the US and now the world by not only homebrewers but professional breweries as well.

 

[couchsending]

I have a breweasy ... kettle rims .... no sparge

Check your pre boil kettle PH when it’s full next time.

 

[couchsending]

You are kinda sounding like the NEIPA haters, whether you are intentionally doing it idk. There is no need to shout down ppl who want to add adjuncts or w/e. I think a milkshake NEIPA sounds terrible, but if that’s what one likes, brew it.

The top breweries may not add adjuncts, but they also have the equipment, ingredients, and knowledge that most of us home brewers do not have. If we cheat a little to produce similar results, then I say go for it.

Not a hater at all. These beers produced by a select few are unbelievably beautiful, well executed beers. Yet so many are really really poor executions. I love brewing the style and what research on how the top beers of the style are produced has taught me about brewing. You might not have the knowledge of some of the best now but that doesn’t mean you can’t get there. There are so many things you think you know that should be questioned or at least researched further. Read, listen, absorb especially what the best of the best say. You will make bette beer in the long run, if you feel like it.

 

[TimmyWit]

The first post was meant to be for shock value cause it’s different than what everyone is saying. I’m saying it can be done and be done better ImHo without all the things people think are necessary to produce the style. The goal is to get people to think out of the box and not just follow the heard. You will make better beer and learn a hell of a lot more about how to make better beer by doing your own research.

Now that I can get on board with. If your post was meant to be "you don't have to" versus "don't" then I concur. There is definitely a difference between the two and the reason I have been going back and forth with you is your initial post implies that you cannot make a good one if you do any of those things which I think we can both agree is false at this point.

I have experimented with this style a lot and I do feel strongly that Scott Janish's explanation of the haze is the best I have read; it is caused by a bond between proteins and polyphenols that remain in suspension and cause permanent haze.

I feel that if you have too many proteins from a high protein grist combined with too many polyphenols (dry hop quantity and timing), you can end up with a murky mess rather than a juicy haze-bomb. When that happens, you either have to wait for it to settle out, or worse, when it settles it drags everything along with it and you end up with a lifeless beer. I came to this conclusion through experimentation and having both of these happen on previous batches.

a low protein grist combined with dry hopping just before final gravity is reached might be one of the most fool-proof ways to produce the style since the protein/polyphenol quantity will be reasonable. But, it's certainly not the only way.

My most recent stab at it was one of my favorites yet. This one had 12% wheat, 6% oats, 6% Munich 10L, and even 2% C-40 for color. I used whirlfloc in the kettle followed by a trub rest. It fermented at over 90F with Kveik yeast in a keg, spunded for natural carbonation and drinking great 5 days from brew day.

 

[hezagenius]

@Tarheel4985

I had a couple of questions about the recipe if you don't mind.
You say to turn off the whirlpool for the final 20 min. Is that to slow down the ambient cooling, or is there some impact to flavor/aroma you are trying to avoid? Or is that just to let the hops settle out a bit?

What are your temps at each WP addition?

Do you find you extract different flavors/aromas with each WP addition?

Thanks

 

[TheHopfather]

Heroes? Give me a break dude. Just referencing the highest regarded producers of the style, you know the ones that put it on the radar. If you’re going to use something as a reference why not use the best, the ones considered the best by the most people. The beers everyone else is trying to copy. And for me the Trillium beers don’t hold a candle to Treehouse and Hill Farmstead in terms of overall execution. They are Hop sledge hammers and the example of what total hop saturation tastes and smells like but they are not as refined or polished.

The first post was meant to be for shock value cause it’s different than what everyone is saying. I’m saying it can be done and be done better ImHo without all the things people think are necessary to produce the style. The goal is to get people to think out of the box and not just follow the heard. You will make better beer and learn a hell of a lot more about how to make better beer by doing your own research.

This style is defined by myths created by others trying to copy it. And it shows in all the horrible executions of the “style” produced all over the US and now the world by not only homebrewers but professional breweries as well.

So what do you suggest be done with the style then? I see lots of talk about what not to do, what do you suggest is the correct way to do it?

 

[Moose_MI]

Check your pre boil kettle PH when it’s full next time.

Ok..what do i want it to be and why?

 

[Moose_MI]

Well...I did all I could do to get through about half of each keg and decided to declare the patient dead.

I did learn something about that butterscotch thing...pulling the keg back out and letting it come to room temp for a week definitely made a difference...that was cool.

Not convinced the recipe is bad...and not convinced the little 60min addition is why i had so much bitterness. I have not mentioned this before now but I used some dry hops that were pretty old (i think) and I’m also not entirely confident of the storage practices the original owner used. They were all OEM packages but for all i know they were 3 year old and stored at room temp.

I did not get an off smell from them when i opened them but I cant say thy had that fresh hops punch in the face either....a big whiff of them just made me go ... “meh”.

Maybe these hops are what screwed me.....lesson learned...cheap hops are not the deal you think they are

I’m probably going to give this recipe another go but use hops I’m very confident in. Ill skip the 60min addition....i’ll Use fresh yeast......and see what i get

Thanks to all that have contributed to this thread!
Cheers!

 

[divrack]

Well...I did all I could do to get through about half of each keg and decided to declare the patient dead.

I did learn something about that butterscotch thing...pulling the keg back out and letting it come to room temp for a week definitely made a difference...that was cool.

Not convinced the recipe is bad...and not convinced the little 60min addition is why i had so much bitterness. I have not mentioned this before now but I used some dry hops that were pretty old (i think) and I’m also not entirely confident of the storage practices the original owner used. They were all OEM packages but for all i know they were 3 year old and stored at room temp.

I did not get an off smell from them when i opened them but I cant say thy had that fresh hops punch in the face either....a big whiff of them just made me go ... “meh”.

Maybe these hops are what screwed me.....lesson learned...cheap hops are not the deal you think they are

I’m probably going to give this recipe another go but use hops I’m very confident in. Ill skip the 60min addition....i’ll Use fresh yeast......and see what i get

Thanks to all that have contributed to this thread!
Cheers!

Hey stop hijacking this thread, I was enjoying the schizmatic theological and ontological argument going on there...
Hehe
Just a side note that might be relevant or interesting otherwise. My friend just brewed a pale with zero hot hops but a tonne of dry hop and it was mega bitter. I suggested hop particles but apparently not and we settled on the culprit of excessive humulinones as causing the bitterness.
http://scottjanish.com/zero-hot-side-hopped-neipa-hplc-testing-sensory-bitterness/
Discussed it at length. Of note to you is that these compounds are particularly apparent in older hops. Perhaps you just got a big dose of that young your ibus.
I think Scott got 30 ibu from a 150g dry hop. He described it as vegetal and harsh but not lingering like alpha bitterness

 

[Moose_MI]

Hey stop hijacking this thread, I was enjoying the schizmatic theological and ontological argument going on there...
Hehe
Just a side note that might be relevant or interesting otherwise. My friend just brewed a pale with zero hot hops but a tonne of dry hop and it was mega bitter. I suggested hop particles but apparently not and we settled on the culprit of excessive humulinones as causing the bitterness.
http://scottjanish.com/zero-hot-side-hopped-neipa-hplc-testing-sensory-bitterness/
Discussed it at length. Of note to you is that these compounds are particularly apparent in older hops. Perhaps you just got a big dose of that young your ibus.
I think Scott got 30 ibu from a 150g dry hop. He described it as vegetal and harsh but not lingering like alpha bitterness

MIND BLOWN.

<EOM>

 

[MPBeer]

Just did my first NEIPA and it’s not good. I will drink it until I can quickly brew something else to fill that space in kegerator. I will not share this beer ....this is a beer that only a parent can love

It’s to bitter...10Gal batch that I did a .5oz Apollo at 60..3oz of juicy hops at 5min...5oz of juicy at 180F whirlpool. I wanted to skip the 60min hop..I really did...but I just couldn’t brew an IPA without a 60min hop.

If you’re brewing a NEIPA...DO NOT add 60min hops. I can taste the NEIPA wanting to come out but those f’ing 60min IBUs are just killing them. I’d love to know what this beer would have been w/o the 60min IBUs. I read all the posts about FLAMEOUT HOPS ONLY and assumed those idiots had no idea how to make an IPA.....wished I’d listened to those idiots...sigh

Since NEIPA is THE beer to brew these days I thought I’d share and see if others had a 1st attempt fail that they want to share learnings from.

I’m going to do this style again and don’t want to fail twice....

I wish I've read this post before I brewed my first NEIPA that tastes like biting on a hop pellet

 

[couchsending]

A .5oz hop addition at 60 minutes in a 10 gallon beer would theoretically not provide enough bitterness to even be noticeable, especially with Apollo which is the most unstable Hop and has probably lost more AA than similar varieties.

I can add 30ish IBUs at 60 another 30 at 20, then more at KO and not have an overly bitter beer. So many people confuse yeast bite/hop polyphenols with IBU bitterness. Everyone focuses so hard on making these beers sooooo hazy that you don’t do the necessary things to make them pleasurable to drink. Yeast is bitter, polyphenols are bitter, you need to get them out of suspension to have a soft enjoyable beer. It depends a lot on your process as there are a lot of variables at play but at a minimum you need to cold crash these beers to get yeast/polyphenols our of suspension. This is what’s causing bitterness, not a god damn 10 IBU addition at 60 minutes. Adding hops before 180 has a lot of benefits and you will get positive flavor and aroma impacts from doing so. Citra boiled for 5 minutes tastes and smells different than Citra added at 180.

 

[bigdawg86]

So without revealing sources, I spent some time with a master brewer at a very large / popular brewery in SoCal that does amazing Hazy / NEIPAS. He has worked very closely with Mitch Steele and appears to have a different philosophy on IPA bitterness, as anyone who has had Stone beers knows that they are often VERY high on the IBU's. He seems to think that the uber bitter beers are not the general crowd pleasers, hence the following.

A few things we discussed...
1.) He said he almost NEVER (on any beer) does 60 minute hop additions. For the beer we brewed it was a 10 minute charge followed by a large hop addition at whirlpool for 20 minutes. He started whirlpool hops at flameout.
2.) Use at least 20% flaked oats, 20% wheat and the rest base malt. He suggests using rice hulls unless you have a very good mill. Keep mash temp extremely high (153dF+). This will do two things, increase the hunt for minimal sugars left in your final product and keep your mashed in over 149F. Any temperature below that, the flaked oats start to turn gelatin.
3.) He seemed to like Vermont yeast although I didn't get much more information on yeast.
4.) One thing pro brewers have that home brewers don't is a hop emulsifier for dry hop re-circulation. On very hop forward beers that's his go to. Hop rockets he said don't work well because the hops get compacted in the tube and don't get as much surface area exposure to beer.
5.) Oxygen is bad Mkay?

 

[couchsending]

One issue I have with that is he’s wrong about the DMS. According to Kunze, essentially the reference for brewing lager beer.

“care is taken to prevent the formation of free DMS from the DMS presursor by means of lowering the temperature to below 85c (185F) before the whirlpool rest, this keeping the free DMS content low.”

A SoCal interpretation of a style from New England, where the references for the style don’t use nearly that many adjuncts...

 

[bigdawg86]

One issue I have with that is he’s wrong about the DMS. According to Kunze, essentially the reference for brewing lager beer.

“care is taken to prevent the formation of free DMS from the DMS presursor by means of lowering the temperature to below 85c (185F) before the whirlpool rest, this keeping the free DMS content low.”

A SoCal interpretation of a style from New England, where the references for the style don’t use nearly that many adjuncts...

Hey I didn't say he was the law, but I know he makes damn good beer! Haha

Interesting about the DMS... Now I am wondering if I heard him wrong... From what I read it seems the actual incidence of DMS is pretty low despite the talk about it. Interesting read. Do you have a link on what you are referencing? Seems like it would be a good read.

I found this... I stand corrected!


Avoiding DMS
If the brewer is experiencing unwanted DMS in no-boil/raw ale/short boiled beers:

• With the lid on the boil kettle ("closed system"), avoid allowing wort to stand between 80-100°C/176-212°F (or between 80°C and your area's boiling point). If the lid is off, DMS will continue to evaporate even at lower than boiling temperatures due to its thermodynamic properties, and less will be retained.
• If the wort is allowed to stand in the above mentioned temperature range in a closed system, boil the wort vigorously for a few minutes afterwards, and then quickly cool it below 80°C (176°F).
• Keep the lid off while the wort is chilling, until it reaches around 60°C/140°F, and then cover it. This temperature is still hot enough to keep the wort pasteurized [30], and DMS will continue to volatilize off (see the DMS Volatilization Model below).

http://brulosophy.com/2015/10/08/update-lab-data-on-pils-malt-boil-length-exbeeriment/

 

[couchsending]

It’s from

Technology Brewing and Malting

by Wolfgang Kunze. It’s a 1000 page brewing textbook. Not sure if you can find excerpts from it online or not.

 

[divrack]

Hey I didn't say he was the law, but I know he makes damn good beer! Haha

Interesting about the DMS... Now I am wondering if I heard him wrong... From what I read it seems the actual incidence of DMS is pretty low despite the talk about it. Interesting read. Do you have a link on what you are referencing? Seems like it would be a good read.

I found this... I stand corrected!


Avoiding DMS
If the brewer is experiencing unwanted DMS in no-boil/raw ale/short boiled beers:

• With the lid on the boil kettle ("closed system"), avoid allowing wort to stand between 80-100°C/176-212°F (or between 80°C and your area's boiling point). If the lid is off, DMS will continue to evaporate even at lower than boiling temperatures due to its thermodynamic properties, and less will be retained.
• If the wort is allowed to stand in the above mentioned temperature range in a closed system, boil the wort vigorously for a few minutes afterwards, and then quickly cool it below 80°C (176°F).
• Keep the lid off while the wort is chilling, until it reaches around 60°C/140°F, and then cover it. This temperature is still hot enough to keep the wort pasteurized [30], and DMS will continue to volatilize off (see the DMS Volatilization Model below).

http://brulosophy.com/2015/10/08/update-lab-data-on-pils-malt-boil-length-exbeeriment/

interesting but it does specify only if the brewer is noticing it and specifies in short/no boil. I imagine this is because he doesn't believe it will be a problem in a normally boiled beer?

 

[Clef051]

I've brewed a delicious NEIPA
57% 2 row
18% wheat
15% oat
4% c10
5% lactose

23ibus 90minute first wort

It was a split batch 5 gallons used voss kviek and 5 used hornindal.

 

[specharka]

Okay, I’ll bite. Not gonna throw any gasoline onto the fire, but here’s a list of my personal NEIPA don’ts:
- Avoid oxidation at all costs. Ferment in a closed container (keg), do not expose the beer to atmosphere following high krausen, purge kegs prior to jumping the beer, and no sampling along the way.
- Don’t use any boiling hop additions beyond a small hop charge at the beginning of the boil. I usually stick with roughly ~30 IBU of CTZ/Magnum. Warrior is too harsh for me anymore.
- Don’t use any caramel or crystal malts for flavor or color correction. A small amount of specialty malt (think GNO, honey malt, or aromatic) is all that is required for perceived malt depth.
- Conversely, don’t not pay attention to your base malt! It should still comprise 70-85% of the grist, so make sure it’s something you want to taste. My favorites are Simpsons Golden Promise and Crisp Maris Otter.
- Don’t forget to experiment with your yeast selection. While London Ale III and British Dry Ale are lovely, there are stellar variations you can experiment with. I’ve used saison yeast, Saccharomyces var Drie, harvested Hill Farmstead dregs, and 100% Brettanomyces yeast with success. Some of my favorite beers were at least a little bit eccentric.

 

[MPBeer]

These are some tips I got from various websites, podcast, forums, etc... to brew a NEIPA. Few of them can be wrong, and there are a few that conflict each other. I'm getting more and more confused and now I'm thinking that NEIPA isn't something distinct from the classic IPA. It's just an IPA which happens to be more hoppy and smoother.

• Proper volume of CO2 makes the nice smooth mouthfeel(2.1~2.4V).
• High on chloride and low on sulfate for smoothness.
  • Weldwerks : Sulfate : Chloride = 1:3 = 75:175~200. 100~120 Calcium.
  • Trillium : Sulfate : Chloride = 2:1 = 200:100.
  • Monkish : Doesn't care. High on calcium tho.
• Haziness is from polyphenol and protein.
  • Unmalted wheat makes beer clearer.
  • High-protein malts and massive dry hopping leads to haziness.
• High ph makes beer sharper.
  • Mash ph around 5.2 is suggested
  • Dry-hop rises ph.
• Take time with cold crashing and get those hop particles and yeasts off from your beer.
  • Grain to bottle date - Monkish : 32 days / Weldwerks : 25~30 days
• Use lots of wheat, oats.
  • Weldwerk suggests 15%~20% of the grist.
  • Monkish : 2-Row + 2~4% of crystal is enough.
  • Trillium : Use 10%~15% of wheat malt.
  • Tree House : No wheat or oats.
  • Tired Hands : Tons of malted oats.
• English yeast strain is suggested.
  • Weldwerks : 1318
  • Monkish : Mix of chico and english ones.
  • Tree House : S-04
  • Trillium : WLP007, 1098, 1318...
• Dry hopping timing
  • Dry hopping in high krausen is suggested, but again it's said that the timing of dry hopping doesn't matter.
  • Trillium : Dry hop at end of fermentation.
  • Monkish : After the fermentation is finished.
• No oxygen getting in the beer.