Need new mash tun, convert? buy? Opinions sought...

[HTH1975]

My old mash tun is unrepairable, so I’m in the market for a new one. I’ve used my boil kettle to mash the last few times, but it doesn’t hold temperature good enough and it also means the boil is delayed while I clean out the mash tun to use as a boil kettle. This is my boil kettle, plus the false bottom (when it was in my old broken mash tun)...

So, options are:

* use my boil kettle as a mash tun and add insulation. I would therefore need to buy a new boil kettle to avoid 10-hour brew days.

* buy a dedicated mash tun and reuse the false bottom and ball-valve from my old mash tun (saving money, and also allowing me to reuse perfectly good gear).

* something else ????

I’m favouring buying a thermopot and converting it. The price however seems steep. I’ve got a budget of £150 GBP.

 

[kevin58]

Have you considered doing BIAB brewing? You have everything you need already except a bag. You can mash in your boil kettle (a little insulation of some kind plus using your burner will help you keep your mash temps). To switch from mash to boil all you do is lift the bag.

If that doesn't appeal to you I suggest option two. Buy a new mash cooler that will allow you to re-use your false bottom and ball valve.

 

[HTH1975]

Have you considered doing BIAB brewing? You have everything you need already except a bag. You can mash in your boil kettle (a little insulation of some kind plus using your burner will help you keep your mash temps). To switch from mash to boil all you do is lift the bag.

If that doesn't appeal to you I suggest option two. Buy a new mash cooler that will allow you to re-use your false bottom and ball valve.

I actually like the AG process, so BIAB doesn’t do it for me. I’ve done it before, and have no problems with the process. It’s just personal preference.

On the face of it, it does appear the best option given my circumstances if all I wanted to do is simply make beer and I had no interest in the process.

 

[augiedoggy]

I actually like the AG process, so BIAB doesn’t do it for me. I’ve done it before, and have no problems with the process. It’s just personal preference.

On the face of it, it does appear the best option given my circumstances if all I wanted to do is simply make beer and I had no interest in the process.

BIAB is still all grain your just using different equipment to simplify the process... I am not a biab brewer myself but thought it worth mentioning the process it the same just less vessels and equipment and sparging is optional. those that simply want to make beer and care not for the process usually do extract beer kits. (not all and not that theres anything wrong with that)

I use a stainless kettle with FB myself but I use a rims tube for holding or stepping mash temps.. (because I really care about the process .. kidding) Instead of a cooler because I not to say you cant hold great temps without it but im into extra hardware to make the hobby more enjoyable too...and we all enjoy different aspects of the hobby.

 

[HTH1975]

I know BIAB is AG, it’s just not for me.

I could see the ‘bag’ possibly working by mashing and sparging as usual, then running off into another vessel. So just using the bag to quickly and easily remove the grains at the end. Not sure if the bag itself would hinder lautering.

 

[ba-brewer]

Option 2 seems like the no brainer decision. If you were happy with the results before why change, cant fix something that is not broke.

I switched out my cooler mash tun for a stainless kettle and RIMS about a year and half ago. I can do step mashes and can hold temp much better now but to be honest I don't think my beer is any better.

 

[HTH1975]

Anyone got links to some possible candidates for a mash tun conversion?

 

[AF1HomeBrew]

Anyone got links to some possible candidates for a mash tun conversion?

In my 10 yrs of brewing I've had the orange 5 & 10 gal. coolers, Blickmann , BruGear, and now Spike Brewing for kettles. I'd suggest Spike. Their kettles are thicker & tri-clad which is great for induction heating. Also if you aren't already doing so, create a Reflectix Jacket for your Mash Tun & HLT since you are using electricity for heating so your equipment isn't working so hard to regulate temps.

What a Spike mashtun looks like (mine was custom at the time due to the tri-clover ports); posts 4 & 15
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/spike-v3-mashtun.581119/

 

[Dland]

Here's a couple pics that show mine. I made it from a 1/2 keg years ago, it is the only piece of equipment left from my brew days in the '90s. Some insulation helps keep mash temp steady on cold days, but could be used with heat coil as well.

Nowdays, I leave the top rim and handles on my ''bottom up'' keggle conversions, but this works fine. Last pic is more recent conversion, like HLT in pictures.

First pic shows Blichman "auto sarge" in action, haha.

 

[augiedoggy]

If you dont use any type of supplemental heating for the mash tun the best performing option is a beverage cooler. Its ironically the cheapest but also the ugliest and many upgrade to have stainless which while more durable and better looking, is good conductor of heat which means it is terrible at insulating even the thermobarrels wont hold temps as well as a decent plastic lines cooler.

 

[mongoose33]

Since you're limited to a budget of £150 GBP or about $185 (yeah, I read the whole thing ), that eliminates a new Spike kettle or, frankly, anything bought from the US.

Getting a new kettle that includes a thermometer, ball valve, and of sufficient capacity and quality seems like it would bust your budget in a hurry.

If that seems to make sense, then you're looking at an alternative mash tun. It would be nice to use the old false bottom. Given its shape, your best bet is cylindrical tuns, of which a drink cooler is probably the best option.

Judging by the markings on your BK, you're doing 38-liter/10 gallon batches? That would imply a mash tun with probably at least a 28 or 30 liter capacity....and I can't recall very many cylindrical coolers that size.

<searching online for a moment, realizing some of this may not be readily available to you>

This is the biggest I could find, 10-gallons, 38 liters:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F6SHTK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Depending on what you're making for beer, that might work if you're sparging.


If that doesn't work, your other option is to get a metal pot, install a ball valve and thermometer (or use one that dips down), and insulate it with blankets, reflectix insulation, whatever.

There is a number of such pots here:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...&field-keywords=15+gallon+stainless+steel+pot

Don't know if you can get this where you are, but the nominal prices are within your budget.

 

[Monkey Mountain]

I'm guessing you are doing 38L (10 gallon) batches? I also think the cooler route would be a good one. The question is, is a 10 gallon cooler big enough...

 

[augiedoggy]

in europe thay have a cheaper version of the chapman/ssbrewtech stainless insulated mashtun also made in china but sold by a german company (The thermobarrel I believe you mentioned already).I looked into these myself years ago.. Just keep in mind it most likely wont hold temps as well as your old cooler did. the american companies actually started carrying these long after the german company who wouldnt export to the US.

EDIT the plastic coolers will warp if you exposed them to temps over 180 degrees.. they also are no longer food grade at those temps and start leeching chemicals out of the plastic. That said as long as you keep the water temps below that you should get a long life out of the plastic cooler.

 

[Dland]

EDIT the plastic coolers will warp if you exposed them to temps over 180 degrees.. they also are no longer food grade at those temps and start leeching chemicals out of the plastic. That said as long as you keep the water temps below that you should get a long life out of the plastic cooler.

I agree, using a plastic cooler is probably a good way to go for some, but as a former restaurant person, I have always appreciated the cleanliness and non absorbing nature of stainless. Plastics can leach and harbor micro organisms, and they do absorb odors/flavors.

Perhaps I'm a little nuts, but I try to keep my beer, other beverages and food away from all the plastic. You should see my wife's glass cook & storage ware collection. Bake, refrigerate, micro wave all in same lovely vintage cookware.

Since I often also use my mash tun as a hop back for post boil hops and wort clearing step, plastic would not work for me, as the wort temperature is still pretty high.

Cost of keg conversion about as low as one can get without going plastic.

 

[GnenieGone]

I don't understand why you just don't kick the heat on every 5min or so. If you're THAT concerned about maintaining temp to within a degree you'll have to spend some money. If you're just a "ballpark" person, just kick the heat on every 5 min and stir which we do anyway during the mash. Cost = Free

 

[applescrap]

A bag in a cooler is no different than a false bottom in a cooler. In fact just last night the lhbs guy showed me his rig. It was a big cooler with a bag that fit it. His old ss braid under it. You dont have to biab to consider a bag. You are only using the bag as a filter. Might be bettet to get exactly what you need or want then make that bottom work. A new kettle would work. Just curious how many degrees difference can you taste in mash temp?

Here is my only beew friend. It was like 27 degrees yesterday. Lost 2 or 3 degrees in 45 minutes.

 

[kevin58]

I actually like the AG process, so BIAB doesn’t do it for me. I’ve done it before, and have no problems with the process. It’s just personal preference.

On the face of it, it does appear the best option given my circumstances if all I wanted to do is simply make beer and I had no interest in the process.

BIAB is all grain brewing in every sense. You are just swapping out a false bottom for a mesh bag as the means of separating your grains from the wort. But it's your system so have at it. I believe it was either Randy Mosher or Ray Daniels I heard say that many homebrewers spend way too much time and energy trying to find the "one way" or the "right way" when in truth there a multitude of ways to make beer. Good luck.

 

[augiedoggy]

A "few degrees" is a lot when it comes to reproducing the same beer you could end up with a sweet high body beer or a dry thin Beer depending.. I understand personal phobias and such I had the same about copper and still avoid it in brewing dispute what many say to discredit my believe I just feel better avoiding it. Turns out thanks to LODO many are jumping on the anti copper bandwagon these days..
I was just commenting on the tangible proven performance and advantages of one over the other. They both have tradeoffs in this regard.

 

[GnenieGone]

A "few degrees" is a lot when it comes to reproducing the same beer you could end up with a sweet high body beer or a dry thin Beer depending.. I understand personal phobias and such I had the same about copper and still avoid it in brewing dispute what many say to discredit my believe I just feel better avoiding it. Turns out thanks to LODO many are jumping on the anti copper bandwagon these days..
I was just commenting on the tangible proven performance and advantages of one over the other. They both have tradeoffs in this regard.

I said a few degrees not 10. I can personally attest many times over +/-2 still makes very drinkable beer with few characteristic variance. At risk of repeating myself, if the issue is $$$, just turn the heat on every few min. If issue is repeatability, thats a whole different ballgame. Just giving the OP my 2cents.

 

[HTH1975]

I mostly do 20-25L batches. Boil sizes up to around 30-35L.

BIAB is still AG brewing, I accept that. I just prefer the 3-vessel way.

I should have mentioned I’m in the UK - thought the budget in GBP would have given it away Amazon in the US seems to have more choice for SS brewstuff than the UK. Some good options in the responses above, many thanks.

One option springing to mind... I have a SS cask that I never use that could be repurposed as a mash tun. It’s 40L, and I’d need to weld the shive opening shut. Could be doable

 

[augiedoggy]

I said a few degrees not 10. I can personally attest many times over +/-2 still makes very drinkable beer with few characteristic variance. At risk of repeating myself, if the issue is $$$, just turn the heat on every few min. If issue is repeatability, thats a whole different ballgame. Just giving the OP my 2cents.

I dont see where you said a few degrees actually.. I must have missed that.
Still 148 will yield noticeable dryer beer than 151. If it didnt matter wed all just aim for 150 for everything. and if you have no way to control temps other than turning on the heat and stirring how do you ensure its only a "few" degrees each time.. sometimes it will be less sometimes it will be more without serious attention and care babysitting

 

[HTH1975]

Thank you for the responses so far.

I’ve found a couple of possibilities that are heavily discounted to fit well within my budget and are 30L vessels.

This one has a electric element, and is double-skinned (better insulated, less heat loss)...
https://www.klarstein.co.uk/Home-ap...Beer-Homebrew-Kit-2585W30L-Double-walled.html

This one is single-skinned, but is sealable and could also be used as a fermenting vessel (it’s primary function as sold)...
https://www.klarstein.co.uk/Home-ap...entation-Tube-304-Stainless-Steel-30-Ltr.html

Opinions?

 

[applescrap]

A "few degrees" is a lot when it comes to reproducing the same beer you could end up with a sweet high body beer or a dry thin Beer depending.. I understand personal phobias and such I had the same about copper and still avoid it in brewing dispute what many say to discredit my believe I just feel better avoiding it. Turns out thanks to LODO many are jumping on the anti copper bandwagon these days..
I was just commenting on the tangible proven performance and advantages of one over the other. They both have tradeoffs in this regard.

Sorry see you had already stated you can taste 3 degrees of mash temps. Thats interesting in light of brulosophy making a beer at 147 and 164 mash temp. One was 4.9 abv and the other 3.3. They then gave this beer to 33 people. Only 12 could correctly choose the odd one out. This isn't the first time they've tested this. They have tested Mash many times. They have tested leaving a mash overnight, they have tested step mashing, they have done a full decoction boil test, and they have done another Mash test. Not one of those tests have returned significant results. The most interesting thing is the decoction. See this test they took one third of the mash I think grain and all and boiled it for 30 minutes. They did that three times. How do you explain people not being able to perceive a difference between that and a single infusion? The answer is simple, mash temp really doesn't matter that much.

You disagree with that I am sure seeing as how you can taste a few degrees. I don't want to get into a debate here, but I want to offer this to the original poster as a way to help make up his mind. Keeping this information in mind, you might find that an inexpensive cooler on Craigslist will work for you. I lost two degrees in 27 degree weather the other day using a jacket.

 

[applescrap]

That mash kettle looks like it fits the bill. Here we have one similar called a turbo boil. I think people brew in those. So by adding heat at the bottom isn't that part of the mash getting much hotter than the rest. Back when I first started brewing, I put the heat on per the advice of someone. When tested that part of the mash was 170 degrees and the rest of it was cooler. It makes sense that the liquid around the element is hotter. I stand by a cooler, but that looks like it will do the job you seek, just stir to keep temps stable. See above for why.

 

[HTH1975]

That mash kettle looks like it fits the bill. Here we have one similar called a turbo boil. I think people brew in those. So by adding heat at the bottom isn't that part of the mash getting much hotter than the rest. Back when I first started brewing, I put the heat on per the advice of someone. When tested that part of the mash was 170 degrees and the rest of it was cooler. It makes sense that the liquid around the element is hotter. I stand by a cooler, but that looks like it will do the job you seek, just stir to keep temps stable. See above for why.

The mash tun with the heating element is similar to my old ‘jam preserve’ mash tun. The way I used it was to get the strike water to the right temperature, switch off the element, then stir in the grain. That way there are no hot-spots or scorching. It worked great. I would be very comfortable with this type of mash tun. I have my false bottom that I used to keep grain off the element, so could reuse it again. For mashout, I just used to recirculate the mash and put the element on.

 

[augiedoggy]

Sorry see you had already stated you can taste 3 degrees of mash temps. Thats interesting in light of brulosophy making a beer at 147 and 164 mash temp. One was 4.9 abv and the other 3.3. They then gave this beer to 33 people. Only 12 could correctly choose the odd one out. This isn't the first time they've tested this. They have tested Mash many times. They have tested leaving a mash overnight, they have tested step mashing, they have done a full decoction boil test, and they have done another Mash test. Not one of those tests have returned significant results. The most interesting thing is the decoction. See this test they took one third of the mash I think grain and all and boiled it for 30 minutes. They did that three times. How do you explain people not being able to perceive a difference between that and a single infusion? The answer is simple, mash temp really doesn't matter that much.

You disagree with that I am sure seeing as how you can taste a few degrees. I don't want to get into a debate here, but I want to offer this to the original poster as a way to help make up his mind. Keeping this information in mind, you might find that an inexpensive cooler on Craigslist will work for you. I lost two degrees in 27 degree weather the other day using a jacket.

its not just tate its about the body and alcohol level. I recently made a large batch of blond ale and messed up a few things being it was the first batch of beer on my new system, ended up striking low and even though I got the mash up to 151 it took over 30 mins due to a stuck false bottom. now there was a 5 degree difference here not three but the difference was pretty huge.

we made this beer plenty of time mashing at 152 and this time the beer came in a couple points high and finished at 1.002 and was super dry with an almost champagne character.. so yeah a few degrees is noticeable when your making a beer you've made many times before.