Need help with bulkhead valve installation

[rijnswand]

I bought this bulkhead valve on eBay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152199088640
Now I'm having trouble getting the o-ring to seal properly.

Attached is an image of what it looks like. The o-ring is supposed to be on the inside of the kettle, and the shim washer on the outside, right? When I tighten the nut, it squeezes the o-ring outwards so that it not agaist the threads. The nut doesn't a groove for the o-ring (not a big enough, anyway).

I put the second o-ring there so you can see what it looks like before I tighten the nut. It looks to me to be of the correct size. Do I just need a better nut, with a groove for the o-ring?

Also, should I put teflon tape on the threads for the nut?

 

[Bobby_M]

Unfortunately that is not a bulkhead. The parts were sold by a party who has never installed a bulkhead but probably just looked at a few google images.

 

[rijnswand]

Could you elaborate? The parts are the same as here:

http://brewprof.com/weekend-diy-homebrew-project-weldless-valve-stainless-boil-kettle/2/

 

[billl]

The o ring isn't supposed to seal against the threads. It's supposed to seal the gap between the wall and the nut.

 

[kh54s10]

Maybe you are tightening it too much. You only need to be tight up against the o-ring. If it is distorting you are too tight.

 

[k1ngl1ves]

Could you elaborate? The parts are the same as here:

http://brewprof.com/weekend-diy-homebrew-project-weldless-valve-stainless-boil-kettle/2/

What he's saying is it's just a nipple through the wall. It will work, you just have to be careful with it. If you accidentally rotate the valve after it's installed (which will happen), you could twist or tear the o-ring... and then the leaking starts.

I prefer bulkheads where you can remove the valve while keeping the rest of the parts in place. A cheap way is to use a nipple with a hex nut in the middle. Cheap, and effective... but you have less threads available on the inside.

For your "bulkhead", I'd get another stainless washer and put it between the nut and gasket (because the nut is too small for the gasket)... or go buy a bulkhead from brewhardware.com or bargainfittings.com. Bargain fittings is super cheap for parts. His valves are the cheapest I've ever seen, and are of good quality. A 3 piece ss valve for $10.99?!!! Come on! I have them on all my gear! Lol!

(Edit: Just noticed you're in Finland. I don't know if either ships there, or if it's worth it based on shipping costs.)


ALWAYS USE TEFLON TAPE ON THE THREADS. You don't want the pieces to gall together. You'll never get them apart unless you destroy them. Plus, it helps stop leaks.

 

[Bobby_M]

Could you elaborate? The parts are the same as here:

http://brewprof.com/weekend-diy-homebrew-project-weldless-valve-stainless-boil-kettle/2/

Show all the parts you have but disassemble it first.

 

[rijnswand]

For your "bulkhead", I'd get another stainless washer and put it between the nut and gasket (because the nut is too small for the gasket)...

Isn't having metal against metal (washer against nut) a bad thing, won't it leak?

By the way, wouldn't it be better to use flat gaskets instead of o-rings? They wouldn't deform under pressure?

or go buy a bulkhead from brewhardware.com or bargainfittings.com. Bargain fittings is super cheap for parts.

Too bad I'm in Europe, shipping costs more than the actual parts...

 

[k1ngl1ves]

1. Isn't having metal against metal (washer against nut) a bad thing, won't it leak?

2. By the way, wouldn't it be better to use flat gaskets instead of o-rings? They wouldn't deform under pressure?



3. Too bad I'm in Europe, shipping costs more than the actual parts...

1. Not if you teflon tape the threads.


2. Flat gaskets are fine too. I'd actually recommended them if using a washer on the inside.

Using your parts, I'd set it up like this:

Valve->nut->kettle wall->gasket->washer->coupler

Then you can remove the valve if needed, and the bulkhead will stay in place.


3. Yeah. Saw that late. Edited my last post.