Need Help Switching to EVA Barrier and DuoTight Fittings

[Dgallo]

Morning folks,

I am looking to switch draft, gas, and transfer lines all to EVABarrier and Duotight fittings. If someone has the time, could you point out what ID mm I am looking for and which fittings I will need for the ballocks/shank/regulator and then any other helpful tips or info that has come up with your use of of them. Thanks in advance!

https://www.morebeer.com/search?search=EVA+barrier

 

[cayde1001]

I use about 10' of the 4mm tubing going to each of my kegs. For my gas side I am using the 5mm tubing but you could use the same 4mm instead of buying 2 different sizes.

For connecting to the ball lock adapter I would recommend buying adapters with 1/4 flare and use the 8mm x 1/4" flare duotight.

I replaced the ends of my taprite regulator with 1/4" flare fittings and used the same 8mm x 1/4" flare duotight fittings.
https://www.morebeer.com/products/brass-flare-fitting-14-mpt.html
Depending on the type of shanks you have you can use the 8mm x female beer thread duotight fittings. If you have shanks with barb ends it is very difficult to force the Eva barrier tubing on. I think there a some threads on HBT where people fashion a short piece of flexible tubing on the barb and a duotight adapter on the other end.

I would also recommend using some locking clips to prevent the connections from coming loose.
JIUWU 1/4 inch Locking Clips for RO Reverse Osmosis Water Filter Fittings Pack of 50 Amazon.com: JIUWU 1/4 inch Locking Clips for RO Reverse Osmosis Water Filter Fittings Pack of 50: Tools & Home Improvement

 

[garzlok]

Echoing some of the info @cayde1001 shared.

Yes, you can run the 4mm ID tubing throughout your draft dispenser and the largest considerations you have to account for are your shank ends and your gas fittings. Some people use the 5mm ID tubing on their gas side because with some hot water, a swaging tool and some finesse, it is possible to open up a 5mm ID tube to fit over a barbed fitting.

On the beer side, a shank that ends with male beer thread is the best bet. My taps had shanks and I cut them off. I succeeded on 2 of the 3 shanks with a clean cut, the 3rd leaked. I ended up buying 3 new shanks that ended in male beer thread. Why worry about something going wrong?

If you're shopping more beer, the 4mm Tubing, the DUO106 and DUO104 will be the workhorse items. If you decide to go 5mm ID on the gas line, the DUO106 fitting will still work for your gas post.

I personally don't see the need for clips, but if you think it will make you sleep better, they wont hurt.

The biggest thing....when installing on the flare fitting/shank, you need to make certain the fittings are tight, but not too tight. if too tight you'll crack the fitting and it wont hold the pressure and leak.

I also use the EVA Barrier/Duotight fittings for blowoff mitigation, CO2 capture, cold crashing, and pressure transfers from fermenter to keg. When you start using this stuff, it becomes a $150 addiction....embrace it, or resist...your choice

 

[JJinMD]

Echoing some of the info @cayde1001 shared.

Yes, you can run the 4mm ID tubing throughout your draft dispenser and the largest considerations you have to account for are your shank ends and your gas fittings. Some people use the 5mm ID tubing on their gas side because with some hot water, a swaging tool and some finesse, it is possible to open up a 5mm ID tube to fit over a barbed fitting.

On the beer side, a shank that ends with male beer thread is the best bet. My taps had shanks and I cut them off. I succeeded on 2 of the 3 shanks with a clean cut, the 3rd leaked. I ended up buying 3 new shanks that ended in male beer thread. Why worry about something going wrong?

If you're shopping more beer, the 4mm Tubing, the DUO106 and DUO104 will be the workhorse items. If you decide to go 5mm ID on the gas line, the DUO106 fitting will still work for your gas post.

I personally don't see the need for clips, but if you think it will make you sleep better, they wont hurt.

The biggest thing....when installing on the flare fitting/shank, you need to make certain the fittings are tight, but not too tight. if too tight you'll crack the fitting and it wont hold the pressure and leak.

I also use the EVA Barrier/Duotight fittings for blowoff mitigation, CO2 capture, cold crashing, and pressure transfers from fermenter to keg. When you start using this stuff, it becomes a $150 addiction....embrace it, or resist...your choice

No joke on the $150 addiction...

Seriously though, keep in mind, both the 4mm and 5mm tubing have an exterior of 8mm, so the fittings (tees, valves, etc.) all work with either, just don't accidentally order 9.5mm OD fittings like I might have done at one point.... Super easy to add valves, check valves, pressure regulators, etc. I have ordered from morebeer, williams, keg factory, and my local HBS sells some of the items as well. While you are shopping, spend the $3 on the tube cutter, that will ensure you have a nice, clean, straight cut on your tubing, the removal part of that tool is flimsy, but the cutter works great.

The duotight system is so flexible and easy to swap everything out. Want to have each line served at a different pressure? No problem, just add a $15 duotight regulator for each line, takes about 1 minute to cut tubing and install.

 

[marc1]

I like the clips. It seemed like they could get accidentally pushed in and leak if I was moving things around.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGR576K/

 

[BongoYodeler]

I recently switched to Duotight and EVABarrier throughout my keezer. Best decision ever. Initial line set-up and remove/replace, if needed, is a breeze. I went with 4mm for both gas and liquid and so far so good. A bit pricey for me since I had to also decided to buy a new regulator and 4-port gas distributor, both with MFL fitting. I have my beer line length at 7ft and get nice pours, though maybe a bit slow. As a test I shortened one to 6ft and the pours are better. However at 6ft I also got a lot more foam when filling an un-chilled growler. Next fill I'll stick the growler in the freezer for a while before I fill it.
Do it, you won't look back, IMO.

 

[Dgallo]

Thanks folks. Idk why it’s taken me so long to make the switch as I’m always preaching about low o2 in threads. The only issue is two of my shanks the barb is fixed, I’m going to have to swap that out. That said I may just clip a small 5/16 hose and clamp it at the shank on those runs.

I have exactly $150 visa dollar gift card so I guess it’s going to upgrade my lines lol

 

[Knightshade]

Most of the stuff id bother adding would just be echo chamber.

I know there are some others on the board who have fit duotight over flare fittings with warm water, some tools and ALOT of patience.

I also came across a vid sometime ago that recommended 3/4 turn on the ball lock flare fittings for the duotight connectors. I’ve been sticking with that and haven’t had any issues yet.

Have also read that star San will break the connectors down if you soak and/or keep them saturated. I use mine for all type of transfers beer/gas/BLC/Star San, so I make sure to take the ball locks apart and rinse out with tap water after I’m done using them for whatever.

And..regarding the multiple regulator setup. I’ve posted this before, so possible you’ve seen it already but just in case you haven’t. Makes kegerator use easy for carbonating, serving (4) and the extra line is usually for transfers or quick force carbonating something.

 

[cayde1001]

Thanks folks. Idk why it’s taken me so long to make the switch as I’m always preaching about low o2 in threads. The only issue is two of my shanks the barb is fixed, I’m going to have to swap that out. That said I may just clip a small 5/16 hose and clamp it at the shank on those runs.

I have exactly $150 visa dollar gift card so I guess it’s going to upgrade my lines lol

As @garzlok mentioned above it is possible to take a hacksaw to your shanks with barbs on them and successfully get the female beer thread duotight fitting to work. I did this on two of mine and when I added new taps ordered the non barbed shanks, both work equally as well (just maybe not as pretty but who is looking at the back end of the shank anyhow)

 

[Elric]

I have eva barrier set over barbs, it's tricky, but doable. Heat both the eva barrier and the barb in boiling water, I used a heated awl to start stretching the eva barrier enough to start it on the barbs and then went from there.

takes some time, but better to use what you have than buy more gear where possible

 

[tracer bullet]

Couple notes I can add:

1) Williams Brewing just sent me an email saying their duotight stuff is 15% off, so - maybe a place to add in your parts searches

2) I went the barb route, because I had so much stainless already and my setup doesn't change often. If you do that as well, here's some info regarding diameters and oetikers:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/duotight-leaks.688681/page-2#post-9052019

 

[seatazzz]

I just recently replaced both my beer & gas sides in my kegerator with eva barrier & duotights; but I went the extra mile and bought a new 6-way manifold that has the MFL 1/4" valves instead of barbed, to make it easier. Went with the 4mm on both sides, and it's working great. With the smaller ID tubing I was able to shorten the beer side to 5' and I'm not getting ANY foam from any of the four kegs currently on tap. Why a 6-way in a four-tap kegerator? Two of them are dedicated force-carb lines with black disconnects. Not ever having to deal with hose clamps is a big plus for me, also being able to quickly take off the gas lines and clean them just in case some beer creeps back up them.

 

[odie]

I tried and tried to heat and slip the EVA stuff...

In the end I just used the push fittings.

 

[Elric]

I tried and tried to heat and slip the EVA stuff...

In the end I just used the push fittings.

I found you have to use an awl or something similar (I’ve also used a finishing nail set as well) to open up the eva barrier, you have to have it wide enough to already get over the mouth of the barb fully before you start working it on the barb itself.

 

[BongoYodeler]

I found you have to use an awl or something similar (I’ve also used a finishing nail set as well) to open up the eva barrier, you have to have it wide enough to already get over the mouth of the barb fully before you start working it on the barb itself.

Sounds like a pita. If I had to do all that I never would’ve changed over. But that’s just me, I do understand everyone has their own reasons for doing things.

 

[Knightshade]

I forgot that Kegland recently released their Duotight ball lock connectors. Was wondering when they'd make their way stateside...especially if your current connectors are looking to be in the need to replace category.

Morebeer doesn't appear to have them yet...and Williams does but they're out of stock...

 

[camonick]

I chose EVA and push to connect fittings for 3 reasons.
1. Shorter hose lengths because of the small ID.
2. Beer freshness (I have noticed a huge difference in flavor of the first pint after a day or two not being stale)
3. Connectivity and interchangeability. Having push to connect at every hose end on both sides of the system gives you endless possibilities almost instantly whenever you need to change something in the system or do cleaning/maintenance. I personally feel that dealing with barbed fittings with this product defeats the purpose of its simplicity. I think it is worth every penny.

 

[Elric]

Sounds like a pita. If I had to do all that I never would’ve changed over. But that’s just me, I do understand everyone has their own reasons for doing things.

Maybe 5 minutes per barb? Not that difficult really, 20-30 minutes I had everything setup versus having to buy a new manifold and wait for it to be delivered. Would I suggest it if you were buying from scratch? No, get a manifold with screw ons, but if you already have a manifold and want to switch to eva barrier you can save a bunch of money by using the awl trick.

 

[Smudgey]

Kegland recently released their Duotight ball lock connectors

I recently bought half a dozen of these. I wish they'd been available - and that I wasn't so hung-up on getting 'quality stainless' everything when I bought into brewing. They're cheap, brilliantly simple and work. No leaks, consistently easy to get on and off keg posts and a 1 minute install.
And I agree, definitely get the pipe cutter!

 

[Benson Brewhouse]

Most of the stuff id bother adding would just be echo chamber.

I know there are some others on the board who have fit duotight over flare fittings with warm water, some tools and ALOT of patience.

I also came across a vid sometime ago that recommended 3/4 turn on the ball lock flare fittings for the duotight connectors. I’ve been sticking with that and haven’t had any issues yet.

Have also read that star San will break the connectors down if you soak and/or keep them saturated. I use mine for all type of transfers beer/gas/BLC/Star San, so I make sure to take the ball locks apart and rinse out with tap water after I’m done using them for whatever.

And..regarding the multiple regulator setup. I’ve posted this before, so possible you’ve seen it already but just in case you haven’t. Makes kegerator use easy for carbonating, serving (4) and the extra line is usually for transfers or quick force carbonating something.

Are those colored zip ties on each regulator? Or does Kegland have some colored rings I'm not aware of?

 

[IslandLizard]

The only issue is two of my shanks the barb is fixed,

If they're brass shanks, by all means switch them out for stainless shanks.

If they're stainless you could cut the barb off, then file/grind the remainder flush with the back of the shank. The rubber washer on the Duotight/John Guest BSPP shank adapter seals on the outer edge, so perfect flushness where the barb has been is not needed.
The essence is to keep the back of the shank (the sealing surface) flat, smooth, and square with the threads.

 

[Knightshade]

Are those colored zip ties on each regulator? Or does Kegland have some colored rings I'm not aware of?

Colored zip ties. I have one there, on the gas connector inside the kegerator and on the tap handle. So I know which knob to twist if a beverage need more or less pressure.

I recently bought half a dozen of these. I wish they'd been available - and that I wasn't so hung-up on getting 'quality stainless' everything when I bought into brewing. They're cheap, brilliantly simple and work. No leaks, consistently easy to get on and off keg posts and a 1 minute install.
And I agree, definitely get the pipe cutter!

Yeah..I've definitely got my eye on those, also like the fact that they're a straight 45 vs 60'ish angle. A couple of months ago I started buying some of the stainless connectors and..so damn pricey. I only have 2 of my 4 kegs in the kegerator converted. I can convert all 4 to these duotight ones for less cost than converting the other 2 completely!

 

[deuc224]

Ive been on duotight and EVA for about a year and some change already. It was good but no one had regulators available. Then all the sudden the white ones came in sock and i bought 11 right off the bat, now they have the rigid connectors which is great for connecting them together in case you dont wanna measure 5cm each line to cut. Easy cleanup and way way way better than regular gas and liquid lines. 4mm can be as short as 5.5 ft, 5mm need to be about 10 if im not mistaken.

 

[Dgallo]

quick question, I’m going to need around 6-8 ball lock between my co2 lines and liquid lines and all the one I have are barbed. Is there a way to simply replace the barb with a male thread for the duotight or do I need to buy all new ones?

 

[odie]

quick question, I’m going to need around 6-8 ball lock between my co2 lines and liquid lines and all the one I have are barbed. Is there a way to simply replace the barb with a male thread for the duotight or do I need to buy all new ones?

You can try to work the EVA over the barbs...I tried and tried...in the end I just bought new threaded QDs

 

[Dgallo]

You can try to work the EVA over the barbs...I tried and tried...in the end I just bought new threaded QDs

Thanks man. I’m just trying to avoid $30-$40 just on balllocks lol. I was hoping maybe the barbs we threaded into the actual balllock and I could just purchase 1/4 flared threaded hardware

 

[tracer bullet]

It's diameter dependent.

4mm = forget it
5mm = can be done
6mm = easy as pie

5mm needs warm water and tools Keep the tools in the water so they stay warm. Dunk the end of the line in the water to warm it as well. Push an awl or similar into the line a little ways then run it over the barb. The first one is hard but then you get the gist and have a method that works pretty quickly. Oetikers to hold in place.

Referring to 1/4" barbs.

Anyway you do it is fine. Depends on what you have on hand, how much you want to replace, and how much you want to spend.

 

[IslandLizard]

Thanks man. I’m just trying to avoid $30-$40 just on balllocks lol. I was hoping maybe the barbs we threaded into the actual balllock and I could just purchase 1/4 flared threaded hardware

RiteBrew.com
They also have John Guest push-fit adapters.
Their prices have crept up the past few years, but they're still among my top resources for kegging stuff and other things.

As is BrewHardware of course. It's hard to beat their selection and variety of top notch products and sundries.

 

[deuc224]

Dgallo, just switch to all eva and duotight man. I started with regular connections and switched the next month. Its the best and easiest way to make sure you dont have leaks. That was super important to me, a couple dollars wont hurt in the long run, i have about 15 barbs and only use 8 so far but i know ill use the others soon lol.

 

[GoodTruble]

My Series X Kegerator (set-up last week) came with duotight fittings to connect shanks to beverage lines. Worked perfectly.

I'm sure you know this, but 4mm ID EVA allows you to use about half as much draft beverage line as 5mm ID. For transfers, larger ID may speed things up though.

The two additional things I wish I had purchased were doutight fittings to connect carbonation caps to 8mm OD (I think 6mm to 8mm reducer) and a duotight check valve to prevent gas back flow.

Also, Williams brewing sells the duotight direct ball lock connects (which are smaller/shorter and allow easier keg stacking), but are sold put (for another 1-2 weeks anyway).