Need help selecting keezer components

[ascha]

So I've been homebrewing now for about a year and have 7 brews under my belt. Some turned out ok, later brews turned out to be pretty good. Anyway, as soon as I finish remodeling my basement (in a few weeks) I want to start kegging but I need some help with the selection process.

Here is my plan, please correct any misteps I may be taking:

I have several options for a chest freezer, even buying a new one is an option, so I can check that off the list.

I'm going to build a collar, probably out of oak, could I use a 1 by instead of a 2 by? I'm thinking if I could use, let's say a 1x6 I could add foam board to get to a wider collar? Does anyone add form insulation board to the collar, I guess it could also be added to a 2x6 too?

I want to have 3 brews on tap at all times so I'm planning on purchasing this kit from kegconnections. I already have a co2 tank so I can remove that from the order but I want to add perlick faucets. What about a dual regulator? I'm planning on placing the co2 tank outside the keezer, would it be helpful to have a dual body regulator to feed the 3 keg system and pressurize new kegs? If I have 3 kegs hooked up to the faucets what do I do with additional kegs that are sitting standby in the keezer? Should I get a co2 manifold with more than 3 outlets?

I really appreciate all the help.

 

[masonsjax]

Williams Brewing has Perlick taps (generic available too) with shanks and tailpieces fully assembled for a very good price. I don't think you can beat that deal.
http://www.williamsbrewing.com/PERLICK_FORWARD_SEAL_FAUCET_WI_P1476C65.cfm

If I was going to make a standard collared keezer, I think I would probably use 2x and line the inside with 1/2" or so foam board. The problem with 1x is that I would want more bulk to screw hinges into, and to mount the taps. 2x would be much more sturdy I think.

If you want to keep your co2 outside the keezer, just use a single regulator on the bottle and then use a secondary regulator, or bank of regulators on the inside. If you put dual regulators on the tank, you will need to run a couple of lines into the keezer instead of just one. Multiple regulators is only necessary if you want to run more than one pressure at the same time. It is useful, but not needed. If you're fine with the same pressure on everything, just get a single regulator, and use a gas manifold to split the single line into however many you want.

 

[ascha]

Thanks Masonsjax.

And maybe this is a discussion for another forum but let me see if I have this right. I'll add beer from my fermentor (cold crashed) to the corney, close the top, and place it in the keezer. Then add a gas line (which will be the same pressure as for the serving kegs) hit the relieft valve a few times to expell oxygen from the keg, close the keezer, then hook up beer line in a few weeks.

I was thinking with a dual regulator on the outside I could pressurize the keg before placing it in the keezer.

 

[masonsjax]

You can definitely do that. You'll need to hit a fresh keg with about 30 psi to seal the lid, so having a second regulator just for that purpose is very convenient. Once sealed and purged, you can store the keg inside or outside at serving pressure (maybe slightly higher if outside at room temp) for a couple of weeks to carbonate. Alternatively, you can add about 3 oz of sugar when you first keg the beer, and let it naturally carbonate for a few weeks at room temp.

 

[ascha]

Great, thanks!

I think thats what I'm going to go with, a dual regulator, so if the keezer gets full i can carbonate kegs outside at higher psi's.

What about a gas manifold for more than the 3 serving kegs? Should I get a 4 way so there's an open spot for a standby keg?

 

[masonsjax]

Yeah, i'd get one that allows for gassing as many kegs as will fit. I'd go ahead and plan for eventual expansion to tap as many kegs as fit in the keezer too.

 

[Bean]

You will cold crash in the kegs. So, i move my brew from the fermentor to a keg put the keg in the keezer let it sit there for a day then give it 40 psi for 3 days turn it down to severing psi witch for me is 3 to 6 pounds, and then bleed the keg.

I bought a brand new chest freezer and build a collar out of a 2x12. Some would say that is crazy but it is nice because there is enough room to put six kegs, all the gas hardware including the tank and a case of beer inside. Also, there is enough weight in the collar that you don't need to secure it to the freezer. The only down side is that I can't reach the bottom if I drop the tap wrench.

I set mine up with three primary regs and put a "Y" value on each. The biggest thing people mess up is not putting enough bev tubing on the taps. I know the taps are right there and all but you need 5 to 7 feet to the pressure can level out.

Hope that helps

 

[MadDwarf]

My collar is 1x8 oak. It's tall enough for kegs on the compressor hump, and more than solid enough to support the taps, shanks, hinges, and regulators I have attached to it. It's been in use for about a year and a half now with no cracking or warping. I've never wished I'd used a 2x8 instead - wouldn't gain me anything but unnecessary weight.

 

[Bean]

and some free insulation ...

 

[Scut_Monkey]

Wood is not a very good insulator compared to foam insulation. I'm just about done with my keezer build and opted for 1x4 with foam board around the collar. Using the 1" material allowed me to add far more foam insulation which will pay itself off in energy savings. The 1" wood is very sturdy and holds the hinges well and the taps are very secure. I too do not see the point of 2x4 material unless you have a different design than me.

 

[ascha]

thanks for the ideas this really helps me

 

[tincob]

Wood is not a very good insulator compared to foam insulation. I'm just about done with my keezer build and opted for 1x4 with foam board around the collar. Using the 1" material allowed me to add far more foam insulation which will pay itself off in energy savings. The 1" wood is very sturdy and holds the hinges well and the taps are very secure. I too do not see the point of 2x4 material unless you have a different design than me.

Scut_Monkey, do you have a picture of the collar with the foam board insulation installed?

I'm going with a 1x4 collar also for my keezer build. I want to insulate but I also want a nice finished look. I don't think it will look very good with the pink foam board exposed.

What about spray painting it white or some other color after installation - not sure if spray paint and foam board are compatible...

 

[Scut_Monkey]

Scut_Monkey, do you have a picture of the collar with the foam board insulation installed?

I'm going with a 1x4 collar also for my keezer build. I want to insulate but I also want a nice finished look. I don't think it will look very good with the pink foam board exposed.

What about spray painting it white or some other color after installation - not sure if spray paint and foam board are compatible...

I don't have pics of it yet as my camera dosen't seem to be working lately. It's not even that old.

The foam board dosen't look terrible but not fabulous either. Regardless I don't care about the asthetics on the inside and I'm a perfectionist with my projects for the most part. The side of the collar with the taps on it is not yet insulated and there is definitely a temp difference compared to the insulated sides. I did three layers of 1/2" foam board which is the width of the freezer wall. If I can get pictures posted I'll throw them up in a thread.

 

[MMTG]

We used 1"x6" pine for the collar backed by the same 1.5" foam that was used in our keezer lid. We wrapped it in black duct tape to prtect it from damage.
It insulates VERY well and I'm glad we used it!
Check out the progress I our keezer build.