Kegland Inline Regulators?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Clint Yeastwood

Supporting Member
HBT Supporter
Dec 19, 2022
Reaction score
Anyone here using Kegland inline regulators? Any problems? My second keezer needs to be set up better for storage, so I am adding a CO2 tank, and I want to be able to vary the pressures. Seems like it makes more sense to buy 3 tiny secondary regulators than 3 big ones. I want the best stuff for my kitchen keezer, but I am willing to take some chances out in the garage.
I bought one to try out on my first keezer build (will be posting a "brag" thread in a few minutes). Two observations: (1) The gauge is useless (2) It seems to take a long time to "settle" into a new setting. For these reasons I decided to use a "traditional" 3-bank secondary. Since I want 5 gas connections in my keezer I split one of the three and also tapped of the secondary which I connected to the Kegland inline regulator. I use the Kegland one for closed transfers and to force-carb the fifth keg in my keezer if needed. Since I don't trust the Kegland gauge, I use my spunding valve with a 0-15 PSI gauge to set the transfer or carb pressure with the Kegland regulator.

So I would say yes the Kegland ones will work but they may be a bit finicky. Or maybe it's just me.


  • IMG_3518.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
I have secondaries too. I also notice that any changes take a while to settle. If I change it too much, it ends up over shooting after a while. Tiny gradual changes.
I finally have all the parts I need, so I slapped it all together. I put it on the ancient Taprite regulator I use for my garage keezer and general CO2 stuff.

Back in the Mesozoic Era, when I bought the regulator, my friends down at the Water Buffalo Lodge told me to use fat silicone tubes for gas, so I did that. I made my own 3-hose manifold from Home Depot and Ebay junk.

Today I removed the valves from the manifold and installed ordinary check valves with male flare threads. It goes manifold-check valve-Duotight-EVAbarrier-inline regulator-EVAbarrier-Duotight disconnect. I made one hose extra long so I can pull it out of the keezer and shoot gas into things.

I spent a lot of time holding things under water and spraying joints with sanitizing compound to check for leaks. I gassed up my two garage keezer kegs and then shut the tank valve. If the keg pressures are zero tomorrow, I'll know there is a bad joint. If nonzero, things may be okay.

If the inline regulators work, they will save some room and give me flexibility.
You can change the pressure dial to one more in your range. There is one to 15 psi and then another a bit higher.
You do need the touch of a safecracker to adjust them and the eyes of a hawk to read the display.
I had non return ball lock connectors on all my kegs and have slowly replaced them with standard ball locks and have found better control of pressures.
One thing I like about them is that they are very portable if you've already switched your gas system over to EVA barrier tubing. You can insert the secondary on any one of your split off lines in the cases where you want to run a lower pressure than normal. You know, a mild or bitter for example. Then if you don't have a lower pressure requirement, you pop it off the tubing and just shove the QD back on to the now bare line.
I may be losing gas on one keg. Still investigating. The gauges don't go all the way to zero, which is weird. I may have an imperfect seal on a keg lid. I tested all the EVAbarrier connections pretty well. I submerged them because I have found soapy water and Star San to be unreliable.

I swapped my new empty 20-pound tank at Airgas today, so now I have to decide what to do with it. I could just put it in my kitchen keezer, but the more I think about it, the more I think that's a bad idea.

I can use little tanks in the keezers and refill them from the big one. In the event of a leak, I'll be extremely unlikely to lose more than 5 pounds. I won't have to change anything. When I need gas, I'll be able to take one big tank for rare trips to Airgas or AWG instead of taking two little ones more often and paying 2.7 times as much for CO2.

I'll still have to take the little tanks in for certification eventually, unless I want to live dangerously.
That is how I've been doing it for a few years now, after investing in a 20lb siphon cylinder exchange setup from AirGas...

...The gauges don't go all the way to zero, which is weird...
My gauge does not go all the way to zero either. When my regulator guage is set to 30, the Duotight gauge will read about 50 wide open. Also I bought the 0-15 PSI gauge to replace the 0-60 PSI gauge and it was DOA. The needle had slipped off the post and there was no way to fix it. I thought it not worth the $8 to raise the issue with the supplier. Perhaps I should report it anyway.

I tested all the EVAbarrier connections pretty well. I submerged them because I have found soapy water and Star San to be unreliable.
I built my entire keezer from CO2 valve to tap with EVAbarrier and Duotight and am very well pleased with the performance of the system. I did the same thing, submerging all the assemblies in water because in the past I too have missed very small leaks using soapy water. No leaks at installation and as far as I can tell still no leaks. It is very convenient to simply pull out a connection if needed. I am just not yet sold on the Duotight regulators/gauges.