Need advice on upgrading to electric kettle for partial mash/BIAB

[rrvbrad88]

Hi all, I'm looking to upgrade from my 6g kettle to a 10g and I want to get into partial mash and BIAB brewing (currently learning on extract kits). A well built kettle with an electric element seems like the best way for me to go since I live in northern Minnesota and I don't want to boil wort when its -25 outside. I have access to 120 and 240 outlets right next to each other in my basement, but the 240 has a electric oven/range plugged into it. So one big question is do I piggy back on the big element on my range with a 120v heat stick/boilcoil? Would a 240v heating element inside the pot be more "powerful" than that? Also, how much does "kettle quality" come into play here? Is a cheaper aluminum kettle sufficient or is it worth it to get say a "megapot" from northern brewer? Thanks for any tips/tricks!

p.s. links to any info would be appreciated too, I've been listening to podcasts in the tractor this spring to learn as much as I can!

 

[dmcman73]

A 5500 Watt ULWD ripple element inside the kettle will be more than enough, no need to add a 120v heat stick.

As for kettle quality, most go with Stainless steel, IMHO it's more durable. If you want a kettle that you can have customized, talk to Spike Brewing (http://spikebrewing.com/). They can customize any kettle for you and even add a heating element port in the kettle.

 

[rrvbrad88]

Do you think a heating element is better than a blichman boil coil? I like the ability to unplug from the pot but it's about triple the cost.

 

[WI_Wino]

I'm using a hot rod from brewhardware.com with stainless steel heating element. No modifications to the kettle, clean up is a snap.

 

[doug293cz]

Do you think a heating element is better than a blichman boil coil? I like the ability to unplug from the pot but it's about triple the cost.

If you want a nice, unpluggable element, take a look at this. To top it off it uses an industry standard plug, unlike the Boil Coil.

Brew on

 

[wilserbrewer]

I'm using a hot rod from brewhardware.com with stainless steel heating element. No modifications to the kettle, clean up is a snap.

Your easiest solution would be to brew on your stove with heatstick assist using a hot rod from brew hardware.

A better, yet more costly and more difficult to build would be a 240v kettle with controller.

240v will also provide the option to automate with a pid and pump if you want to go more deluxe.

The concord kettles on eBay are a nice value priced pot IMO.

 

[The_Bishop]

If you want a nice, unpluggable element, take a look at this. To top it off it uses an industry standard plug, unlike the Boil Coil.

Brew on

Man, you have no idea how hard I'm contemplating swapping out my element for that setup.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Man, you have no idea how hard I'm contemplating swapping out my element for that setup.

Agreed, Bobby at Brewhardware.com had a stroke of genius with this one. Quite the innovation...when I first looked at it I thought, nice an element with integrated plug, then I noticed the TC flange as well and was really impressed!

 

[TexasWine]

A cheap aluminum pot is just fine. But so is a cheap stainless steel pot. When you're electric brewing there's no need for things like a tri clad bottom.

I think the Bayou Classic 1060 and 1064 are good values. Both can be bought on Amazon, ~$100 and ~$140 respectively. But I've also seen 60 quart aluminum pots out there for $50.

Last thing. If you want to make 5 gallon batches, I'd recommend a 60 quart (15 gallon). I've done plenty if 5 gallon batches in my 9 gallon kettle, but I always have to sparge.

 

[rrvbrad88]

Is it a problem if the BIAB bag sits on the heating element? Do you need a faux false bottom to prevent any scorching or melting to the bag or grain?

 

[TexasWine]

Is it a problem if the BIAB bag sits on the heating element? Do you need a faux false bottom to prevent any scorching or melting to the bag or grain?

Only if you're applying heat with the bag sitting on it.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Is it a problem if the BIAB bag sits on the heating element? Do you need a faux false bottom to prevent any scorching or melting to the bag or grain?

You could go without a FB and simply insulate the kettle with a blanket or winter coat, some also make a kettle wrap out of reflectix insulation.

You could also fire the element with constant stirring of the mash to raise the temp slightly.

The larger the batch, the more stable the temp will be. You can also stir the mash with a heatstick to make a temp adjustment.

BIAB can be done very simple, or as complicated as you wish.

I'm not convinced that holding a precise mash temp is all that critical, and once you know what to expect, simply adjusting your strike temp works pretty well IME.

With modern malts and a finer crush, conversion occurs quickly.