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Need advice - hops reached top of trellis

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Calder

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I have an 11 foot trellis support for my Chinook hops. The second year plant has already reached the top and is a couple of feet in the air above it.

What should I do?

- Leave them alone and let them drop and then start climbing up the string again? I'm concerned that this could result in bent or broken stems.

- Pinch out the top and encourage lateral growth.

I'm thinking of doing the second. Just want to ensure it is not a mistake. I tried to encourage one shoot to fold over in a certain direction, and ended up damaging it; it bent over (probably not good). That one was 3 to 4 feet above the top of the trellis.
 
My personal opinion is it is way too early for them to be that high. I feel like you should have cut them back and delayed training. Basically you would be starting the training now or later this May (based from Ohio as the location). My concern would be early burr formation getting cooked in the summer heat.

I'd leave it alone and let it do whatever. It still seems early to cut the top off. Just take some notes because every growing region is different. Chinook is mid to late for maturity.
 
My personal opinion is it is way too early for them to be that high. I feel like you should have cut them back and delayed training. Basically you would be starting the training now or later this May (based from Ohio as the location). My concern would be early burr formation getting cooked in the summer heat.

I cut back the first few bines, but had no intention to fight nature.

My Cascade is even bigger, but it has a lot bigger trellis to climb on, and I've trained part of it sideways. I'd estimate the biggest couple of bines are 15 feet, maybe more. They also have a ton of side branches that are a few feet long.

Location: Cincinnati, South Ohio.

My Centennial and Willamette are both about 6 to 7 feet with side shoots (just the buds).

I think flower formation is based on the length of the day, and burrs will not form early. It waits until the amount of daylight starts to get less before flowers start to form.
 
I have done both in the past: cut them or let them wrap around. Did not make much difference.
I have also tied cross pieces or upward extensions on using bamboo tomato sticks.
 
I cut back the first few bines, but had no intention to fight nature.

My Cascade is even bigger, but it has a lot bigger trellis to climb on, and I've trained part of it sideways. I'd estimate the biggest couple of bines are 15 feet, maybe more. They also have a ton of side branches that are a few feet long.

Location: Cincinnati, South Ohio.

My Centennial and Willamette are both about 6 to 7 feet with side shoots (just the buds).

I think flower formation is based on the length of the day, and burrs will not form early. It waits until the amount of daylight starts to get less before flowers start to form.

Come to think of it since they're 2nd year they should be allowed to grow. Next year I would think about cutting them back a few times if that's what it takes. As far as max yield I think that's what you will want. Something about vertical and lateral growth. I'm just now going to start training my Cascade maybe a week later than I planned (cut back at least twice).

The 6 ft bamboo posts are a great idea! Extend that vertical growth!
 

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