NE IPA

[jaysquared2]

So I have a couple ingredient kits still lying around from the holidays I was gifted. They're IPA kits and was thinking about using what comes with them as well as couple I have leftover from previous batches to brew a NE IPA. The total ingredients are as follows:

Grains:
6lb Pilsen LME
1lb Pilsen DME
7lb Rahr 2-row
1lb Caramel 80
0.75lb belgian carapils 8
2lb Rolled Oats

Hops:
3oz Chinook
3oz Centennial
3oz Citra

Any ideas to achieve this? I can pick up some other grains if needed, but would like to keep to the hops I have on hand if at all possible. Ive seen alot of recipes that use flaked wheat or just white wheat as well and I could easily get some of that. Thanks for any help. Oh, and hoping for at least 3 gallon batch. Preferably more, just not higher than 5 (equipment limitations).

 

[cegan09]

Grains don't need to be anything special. If you have it aim for about 15%-20% flaked grains of any variety. Don't need crystal malts. Use any combination of the other base malts to get to your desired OG.

For hops, Aim for 30IBU of bittering tops, some are even skipping boils hops altogether. The rest should be some massive whirlpool additions, and then one big dry hop added about 24 hours after you see fermentation start (add while it's still fermenting). I can't comment on that combination specifically as i'm not that experienced, but if you split that citra between whirlpool and dry hop you'll be headed in the right direction. See if anyone else has mixed citra with either of those and how it came out.

Hard to build an exact recipe since your setup is different from mine, but take that advice and a tool like beersmith to adapt to your setup and you'll be on your way to a good beer.

 

[Braufessor]

Hops:
1 ounce of Chinook around 30 minutes
1.5 ounces of citra and centennial once you chill it down to around 150 or so
1.5 ounces of citra and centennial on day 2 of fermentation

** I suppose you could also add an ounce of chinook to each of those last two additions if you want. Personally, I don't love hops like chinook in beers like this.... Citra, mosaic, simcoe, galaxy, amarillo etc. are my "go-to" hops

1318 yeast

Aim for about 1.055-1.065 on the gravity using the base grains you have.... you might not use them all.

If you are going to use the flaked oats, you need to do a partial mash where you mix them with 2-3 pounds of the 2 row and mash them for 40-60 minutes @ 155.

I would only use 2-4 ounces of the caramel malt personally - these beers tend to be better ( I think, with minimal caramel flavors)

The carapils would be fine to add to the partial mash

 

[jaysquared2]

Both these advices are extremely helpful and exactly what I was looking for. Just 1 question for braufessor: I dry hop using bags not just thrown directly in. When adding that active ferment dry hop how long would I leave the bag before pulling? Infinitely until fermentation completes and ready to transfer or only for a set number of days? Mainly asking cause of the risk of "grassiness" from leaving hops around too long.

 

[Upthewazzu]

1oz of each at flameout, 1oz of each around 170° (whirpool for 10-20 minutes if possible), .5oz of each in dry hop after 2 days of active ferment, another .5oz of each 4 days before you package (8-10 days is fine for the first round of dry hops). Use American Ale II yeast.

 

[cegan09]

Just leave the dry hops in. If you're not leaving it much past the 2 week mark you're not at risk of that at all. I've done this style with upwards of 6+oz of dry hop in for about the full time in the primary and never had that issue. Using a bag is ok.

 

[Upthewazzu]

1318 yeast

I was surprised to learn that Bissell Brothers uses American Ale II yeast (actually BSI A72, but same strain), not 1318. I doubt many North East breweries actually use 1318.

I would only use 2-4 ounces of the caramel malt personally - these beers tend to be better ( I think, with minimal caramel flavors)

The carapils would be fine to add to the partial mash

Also, I was surprised to learn that most authentic NEIPA's use at least some caramel and carapils malts. Most of the ones I had in Portland, ME (the NEIPA capitol) use it fairly liberally across their line of NE-style IPA's.

 

[cegan09]

There's a ton of different yeasts that play well in these beers. 1318 is one of them, and a good choice for home brew versions. I doubt you'd be disappointed with either.

 

[jaysquared2]

In regards to the grain bill, should I use all 7lbs of the 2 row and only add extract as needed to reach OG? Or do a mix of say like 4lbs 2-row and like 3lb LME, etc. Obviously not including the specialty grains. Plan to make its about 18% flaked and like 1 person recommended only like 0.25 at most caramel malt.

 

[Braufessor]

Both these advices are extremely helpful and exactly what I was looking for. Just 1 question for braufessor: I dry hop using bags not just thrown directly in. When adding that active ferment dry hop how long would I leave the bag before pulling? Infinitely until fermentation completes and ready to transfer or only for a set number of days? Mainly asking cause of the risk of "grassiness" from leaving hops around too long.

I throw mine in loose and leave them from day 2 to day 12 or so when I keg. No grassiness.

 

[Braufessor]

I was surprised to learn that Bissell Brothers uses American Ale II yeast (actually BSI A72, but same strain), not 1318. I doubt many North East breweries actually use 1318.



Also, I was surprised to learn that most authentic NEIPA's use at least some caramel and carapils malts. Most of the ones I had in Portland, ME (the NEIPA capitol) use it fairly liberally across their line of NE-style IPA's.

I have used 1272 quite a bit for these beers..... it works great. Conan works well too. 1318 seems to be the most common though.

Personally, I am not a big fan of caramel malts. I use around 2% or so usually, but like a beer in the 4-5 SRM or so.

 

[cegan09]

In regards to the grain bill, should I use all 7lbs of the 2 row and only add extract as needed to reach OG? Or do a mix of say like 4lbs 2-row and like 3lb LME, etc. Obviously not including the specialty grains. Plan to make its about 18% flaked and like 1 person recommended only like 0.25 at most caramel malt.

What do you normally do? If you're normally an all grain brewer than I would say use all the 2 row and then use either the DME or LME to get to your desired OG. If you're looking to get rid of the DME and LME then base it around that and just use enough 2 row to get where you need to. I don't think it will be bad either way.

 

[Upthewazzu]

Personally, I am not a big fan of caramel malts. I use around 2% or so usually, but like a beer in the 4-5 SRM or so.

Totally agree, it needs to be kept at a minimum as a percentage of the total grain bill. Vienna or Munich are more preferred, IMO. I was just surprised to see how many breweries were using it commercially in their NEIPA's.