Nope. Never seen that before. Am I correct to assume that you are properly level-shifting the I2C pins?
Ahhh thought more about it. No. I have the LCD connected to 5V Vin and the I2C pins are getting 3.3V signal. Is that what you mean?
You and I had a similar idea, I think.
I haven’t finished/posted my design for this yet, but the two things I added - both for circuit protection - were fuses on the AC lines and a varistor for the same. I also am using a 2A supply rather than 1A, but my design targets the ESP32. Hahaha awesome great minds think alike. Yeah I’ve been using the s2 mini in tons of projects I like them a lot. I would love to collaborate on this i have used the s2 in other pcbs I had to draw a custom component on easyeda. Once I did that they have been easy to add to pcbs. I just tweaked my design and added logic level shifter to the circuit for the display. I figured I might as well add it onto my pcb since only two channels need shifted I have the commercial ones but those take up space would be another component to buy and all have four channels lol. Plus it’s just a couple resistors and mofset. Here’s the sketch so far. Also I purchased some of these displays to play with OLED displays based on the SSD1306. Im wondering what the feezibility of adding support for these would be as they seem pretty cool.You and I had a similar idea, I think.
I strongly recommend targeting the S2 over the ESP8266, but of course from a PCB perspective the two devices are pin-compatible, so there’s nothing to “target” that would change the design.
At some point I may make use of the extra row of pins to add TFT support to the S2, but at that point you might as well go to the full ESP32
I did the same, just could not get the V4.0 to work. I set the pins on the S2 to #5 for Heat and #7 for Cool and everything functioned as it did with the D1 (only it works now!). Many thanks to Thorrak for creating this solution!
UHH. It's always possible that I, in my brilliance, released the firmware but forgot to add the relevant changes to Fermentrack. Let me poke at it a bit.
My bad, I probably should have posted a link instead:
AH, then I'm pretty sure that I've used that exact one. I anticipate you'll be fine.
awesome and thank you for the help. I've got another round of soldering to do and will get that installed then. I have been finding that process somewhat enjoyable, much more so after I got things dialed in, my first resistor... Was not pretty hahaHave a small merchandiser, should be sub 8a max and a smaller merchandiser they both have the same problem.I’ve not had a relay board fail yet - and I have a build that has been controlling my keezer for 4+ years.
What is the load you’re switching that is causing them to fail?
Thorrak,
Is the 8 amp the running/continuous rating? What is the surge or locked rotor current spec? It could be you are significantly exceeding the relay rated current long enough the contacts are eroding.
This was my best guess for the larger cooler (don't know the locked amps off hand), the whole unit was 8a I believe. But my small unit should be nowhere near the relay max and they both fail the same way. I did find some 5v 30a relays, but they need the full 5v to trigger (3.3v won't).
No offense intended (maybe I'm not following), but I need my 3.3 i/o to step up to a full 5v for a higher amp relay to switch.
![Craft A Brew - Safale BE-256 Yeast - Fermentis - Belgian Ale Dry Yeast - For Belgian & Strong Ales - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [3 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51bcKEwQmWL._SL500_.jpg)
