Mypin TA6 PID Controller Questions

[tecovabrewing]

I just bought a RIMS tube with heater element and temperature probe, and a "control box" that was made with a Mypin TA6 PID controller.

I'm totally new to the system, and to a PID controller.

The temperature probe was off about 10 degrees, then 4 degrees, and at some points it bounced all over the place.

I had to keep increasing the temp to get close to the mash temp I wanted. At some points, I had it up to 184 degrees, the temp probe would read 174, and my thermometer on my mash read 151! (incoming mash into the mash tun from recirculating through the RIMS tube was about 152+).

Overall it worked, and I hit my OG, but I didn't think I should have to keep increasing the temperature.

1. Is it possible to calibrate the temperature probe? How would one do that?
2. How should I be using this, considering it was wired correctly? Do I just set the temp and go?

 

[augiedoggy]

I just bought a RIMS tube with heater element and temperature probe, and a "control box" that was made with a Mypin TA6 PID controller.

I'm totally new to the system, and to a PID controller.

The temperature probe was off about 10 degrees, then 4 degrees, and at some points it bounced all over the place.

I had to keep increasing the temp to get close to the mash temp I wanted. At some points, I had it up to 184 degrees, the temp probe would read 174, and my thermometer on my mash read 151! (incoming mash into the mash tun from recirculating through the RIMS tube was about 152+).

Overall it worked, and I hit my OG, but I didn't think I should have to keep increasing the temperature.

1. Is it possible to calibrate the temperature probe? How would one do that?
2. How should I be using this, considering it was wired correctly? Do I just set the temp and go?

..

My question to you is how do you know its the temp probe thats off from actual readings? have to done an actual check by takingtemp measurements from the temp probe area with another calibrated thermometer or are you assuming here?
Also your sure the temp probe setting in the mypin controller is set to match the temp probe type your using right? dont assume the guy that threw this together did that for you. they come set for a ktype thermal couple and most people use rtd pt100 sensors so it wont read right unless its set to the correct probe type.

a properly designed rims tube has the tip of the temp probe almost touching the heating element end. What kind of rims setup and what element are you using as far as size and wattage? how much do you have your pump restricted back? anything at 3gpm and higher is usually too fast for even consistent heating to take place on most rims setups.

also try wiggling the connector ends where the probe attaches to the control box and the wires to the probe to make sure theres no loose wire in there causing crazy jumpy readings... I had more of those cheap stainless braided line probes fail this way than I care to remember and did away with them for that reason. There is an offset value to correct if the probe is off a few degrees but if its way off something is either wrong with the probe , wiring or setting.

 

[augiedoggy]

I tried uploading a nice translated english manual for the pid your using I got from this forum from another member but apparently they changed the upload size max again and its too big to share so...
sorry.

 

[tecovabrewing]

Since the RIMS tube is sealed, I have no other way of testing temperature except when it leaves the tube and re-enters my mash tun. I was thinking of putting the temperature probe in a pot of boiling water to test it, and maybe calibrate it. Would that be wise? Or run boiling water from my mash tun through the tube?

I am not sure of anything with the type of probe and setup in the in the mypin controller. Should there be identifying marks on the probe, and how do I program the correct probe type?

It is close to touching, and I was worried about that, but sounds like it is correct. 18" tube from brewhardware.com. How do I identify the element and probe? I've tried restricting the pump when I ran it and it didn't seem to change things too much.

I also found the wires were loose when I ran it, and I fixed that. I think that was causing the bouncing readings at the time, but not the inaccurate readings later, as far as I could tell.

It sounds like we're both on the same page. I just need some help with tweaking it.

 

[tecovabrewing]

Also, should it touch the element before the probe, or the probe before the element?

 

[augiedoggy]

Since the RIMS tube is sealed, I have no other way of testing temperature except when it leaves the tube and re-enters my mash tun. I was thinking of putting the temperature probe in a pot of boiling water to test it, and maybe calibrate it. Would that be wise? Or run boiling water from my mash tun through the tube?

I am not sure of anything with the type of probe and setup in the in the mypin controller. Should there be identifying marks on the probe, and how do I program the correct probe type?

It is close to touching, and I was worried about that, but sounds like it is correct. 18" tube from brewhardware.com. How do I identify the element and probe? I've tried restricting the pump when I ran it and it didn't seem to change things too much.

I also found the wires were loose when I ran it, and I fixed that. I think that was causing the bouncing readings at the time, but not the inaccurate readings later, as far as I could tell.

It sounds like we're both on the same page. I just need some help with tweaking it.

To test it you remove the temp probe (like you would if you were cleaning it) and put the tip into a pot of water and test against another thermometer. If its bobbys TC rims tube it comes apart without any tools...

 

[augiedoggy]

Also, should it touch the element before the probe, or the probe before the element?

Think about that for a minute.... if you had the probe measuring the wort as it leaves the MT and before it hit the element then the element temps would not be regulated very well would they. Theres a long time delay between what comes out of the rims and what goes back in... the element would be on solid for that time period until the wort hit the setpoint way overshooting your temps.

You want the probe to measure wort temps as they leave the rims.

 

[tecovabrewing]

Think about that for a minute.... if you had the probe measuring the wort as it leaves the MT and before it hit the element then the element temps would not be regulated very well would they. Theres a long time delay between what comes out of the rims and what goes back in... the element would be on solid for that time period until the wort hit the setpoint way overshooting your temps.

You want the probe to measure wort temps as they leave the rims.

OK, that's what I thought.

 

[tecovabrewing]

Hmmm, the supposed "electrical engineer" put this whole setup in a wood box. I am wondering if it could be overheating and causing the erratic temperatures later in the brew. I only see a heatsink on the relay, but it smelled like burning wood last brew. It's all sealed with no vents.

 

[augiedoggy]

Hmmm, the supposed "electrical engineer" put this whole setup in a wood box. I am wondering if it could be overheating and causing the erratic temperatures later in the brew. I only see a heatsink on the relay, but it smelled like burning wood last brew. It's all sealed with no vents.

Yeah thats not ideal at all.

 

[mpmccann]

The heat sink should be exposed to air outside of the box or a fan and venting holes to move the air through the box.
Also a metal box is preferred due to fire hazards.

 

[augiedoggy]

Yeah a wooded box violates codes... im surprised an electrical engineer would go that way over evena plastic enclosure... They are cheap at the home depot of lowes.

 

[tecovabrewing]

Think about that for a minute.... if you had the probe measuring the wort as it leaves the MT and before it hit the element then the element temps would not be regulated very well would they. Theres a long time delay between what comes out of the rims and what goes back in... the element would be on solid for that time period until the wort hit the setpoint way overshooting your temps.

You want the probe to measure wort temps as they leave the rims.

My friend recently changed his, to hit the thermocouple first, and his heating element is turning on less. It took a while for him to sell me on this, but I see his point.

 

[augiedoggy]

My friend recently changed his, to hit the thermocouple first, and his heating element is turning on less. It took a while for him to sell me on this, but I see his point.

if I did that with my setup the worth would be 5-6 degrees over from being on 100% till it got all the way through the gain bed to the temp probe