MyPIN TA4 PID and RTD sensor:

[pentiumone133]

Ive got a cheap mypin ta4 pid controller for my RIMS setup that has been working well with a thermocouple. Recently I acquired a new RTD sensor to replace the TC so I can disconnect the sensor from the control box instead of leaving it connected all the time. I cant figure out how to wire it up, and I have no idea what settings to change on the PID to change it to accept RTD input. Can anyone help?


Heres a photo of the schematic on the PID:
http://imgur.com/vDrFbqi

The RTD sensor has two white wires and one red wire. Heres a photo:
http://imgur.com/onRa64h

Thanks!

 

[pentiumone133]

I'm thinking that the two white wires goto pin 8 and 9 on the PID, and the red wire connects to pin 7.

Just need someone to confirm before I blow something up!

 

[bucfanmike]

I can check mine when i get home but I think you are right except that you also run a jumper from 7 to 10. I don't remember which setting it is in the menu but I can check that this evening as well if no one else has answered by then.

 

[bucfanmike]

ok checked my paperwork, rtd positive (same colors) to 8&9, lone wire to 7 and a jumper wire from 7 to 10. When you go through your programming, its alarms first then offset, right after that is the input type, screen shows InP. change that setting to pt (for pt100).

that should do it

 

[pentiumone133]

ok checked my paperwork, rtd positive (same colors) to 8&9, lone wire to 7 and a jumper wire from 7 to 10. When you go through your programming, its alarms first then offset, right after that is the input type, screen shows InP. change that setting to pt (for pt100).

that should do it

Worked perfect. Thanks, you're the man! Also while I was in there I found the setting to change to Fahrenheit instead of celcius

 

[TheSavant]

I know I'm reviving an old thread, but.... I have this same setup wired exactly as described and my temperature readings jump all around within about 5 1/10ths (sitting at room temp- no fluids moving through the tube). Reading will never show steady- jumps all around from 65.9- 66.5

I thought the RTD was supposed to be more accurate, what gives?

 

[jeffmeh]

I know I'm reviving an old thread, but.... I have this same setup wired exactly as described and my temperature readings jump all around within about 5 1/10ths (sitting at room temp- no fluids moving through the tube). Reading will never show steady- jumps all around from 65.9- 66.5

I thought the RTD was supposed to be more accurate, what gives?

Does the PID have some type of sampling or digital filter setting that can smooth out the "noise?" I know the Auber 2352 has a "FILT" parameter for that.

 

[TheSavant]

I'll double check, but I don't think so.

 

[Majd]

Hi every one,
When it comes to electrical wiring and things like that I'm almost zero, and when it come to acronyms or abbreviations such as RTD, PID or even TC (which now I know it by now, Temperature control). When it comes to abbreviations i'm below zero. So can some one help me and walk me through connecting my Temperature controller PID MYPIN TA4.I got this one along with a Solid State Relay (SSR). The temperature probe that I bought separately and the one that came with the PID have only two wires a blue and a red. The schematic diagram on the side of the PID shows much more screws and connection points than actually there. I used the attached diagram to connect my probe and SSR to the PID (LOL acronyms). Also see actual pictures of my PID and SSR.

Now when I turned on the unit it did not read temperature right. Thinking that it needs some calibration, I went to the set up mood to do so, but ended up at a screen that shows LLLL on top and the value of 100.0 on bottom (see pictures).

Any clue what is wrong? is it my connection, or setup?

Thanks

 

[iijakii]

First, are you sure you have an RTD? Almost all of them are 3-wire, although some 2-wires do exist. You might have a k-type thermocouple (TC) instead.

 

[wbarber69]

TC stands for tri-clover huh?

 

[wbarber69]

Try removing all the jumpers from 8-9 and from 7-10 and just hook the thermocouple up to 7 and 8 or 7 and 9 depending on type. But it looks like a k-type thermocouple. Even if you had a pt100 you wouldn't need those jumpers the diagram on the side of the pid is telling you to put resistors in but most thermocouples have the resistor inline so you don't need all that.

 

[Majd]

Iijakii, you are right I do not have an RTD (whatever that mean) my probe says a K type on it (whatever that means too)


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[iijakii]

Majd,

Since you have a k-type thermocouple it's easy, just put them on 7 and 8 like the diagram. Ignore the RTD wiring on the right-side.

 

[Majd]

Majd,

Since you have a k-type thermocouple it's easy, just put them on 7 and 8 like the diagram. Ignore the RTD wiring on the right-side.

iiJakii,
Thanks again,
Now I got that part (the probe connection). at the other side "left side" where power is connected to 1 and 2. Then it seams like 3 and 4 to the SSR, what do I do with 5 and 6? it says Al 1 on the schematic diagram??

 

[iijakii]

That's for the alarm. Do you have an alarm in your rig?

 

[Majd]

That's for the alarm. Do you have an alarm in your rig?

This PID will be used for my fridge control for now. I do not have an alarm. I'm still having the LLLL displayed where the probe temperature reading should be. Even after I removed all the jumpers as you sayd. I noticed one thing that if I switch the position of the probe wires on port 7 &8 (red and blue) the LLLL changes to UUUU, which telling me it is Low and Up?!!
do you know why Im I getting these LLLL or UUUU messages?

 

[wbarber69]

You have to set what type of thermocouple in the internal settings

 

[Majd]

You have to set what type of thermocouple in the internal settings

Wbarber69,
Thanks, I did find out how to change the type of thermocouple. However, since I do not know what thermocouple I do have I went ahead and chose all of them one at a time. You were right in the since that only one of the choices displayed LLLL, and the rest displayed numbers. But the numbers displayed are not temperature, or at least not accurate if they were. The ambient here is well over 70F and I had the PID set to read in F. the numbers were 30, 35 and if I put the probe in my palm the number go down and up randomly..

I'm gonna show here a picture of how is the connections on my PID this could help you figure out what is wrong in my connection and help me corrected.

Once again thanks to all of you guys really great help

 

[iijakii]

Bet youre at celcius, go through the manual and switch to Fahrenheit.

 

[wbarber69]

And if the temp goes down instead of up just switch the probe wires on the pid. I think that's what I've read. I've only ever used pt100 sensors.

 

[wbarber69]

A pic showing it all hooked up might shed some more light on the subject. If you mis wire your ssr you could have a really bad time.

 

[Majd]

Bet youre at celcius, go through the manual and switch to Fahrenheit.

no really it is on F. right this second it is reading 129.5!!!

 

[Majd]

I just switched the probe wires locations (flipped the red and blue) it seam to be working. I need to re visit the set up and should be fine.

thanks to all

 

[mrmedic]

Sorry to hijack your thread Majd, but i'm in the same boat kinda. I'm wire up similar to your PID although instead of my white and black wire connected to SSR its Connected to AL 1. Now my temperatures are spot on from what I see on the controller screen and I hear a "click sound when there is a fluctuation in my set temp, but then nothing happens. For testing purposes I have a fan connected to this set up for the time being. Any advice anyone?

 

[mrmedic]

Here is what I have connected, I have changed the PID from Centigrade to F already, and I have a feeling something is not wired correctly.

 

[mrmedic]

I'm going to start a new thread, ignore this one people.

 

[wbarber69]

No reason to start a new thread. You have your ssr hooked up wrong if your using the alarm relay. You would need some kind of low voltage (5-30vdc) power supply in order to use the ssr on the alarm relay your mypin pid doesn't have ssr output. If you are using the one that uses alarm 1 as the second ssr then you need to go into the settings and change the alarm over to ssr. That click you hear is the mechanical relay switching on and off which means it's in alarm mode. The way you have it setup and wired right now there isn't any type of voltage going to the ssr in order to turn it on and off.

 

[orangehero]

ok checked my paperwork, rtd positive (same colors) to 8&9, lone wire to 7 and a jumper wire from 7 to 10. When you go through your programming, its alarms first then offset, right after that is the input type, screen shows InP. change that setting to pt (for pt100).

that should do it

Just want to verify, is this the correct way to wire the MyPIN TA4/TD4 to a 3-wire RTD sensor (two red, one white)?

I've read another post with different instructions.

The jumper should be across 9 and 8 and only for a RTD. I have a TA4 and 6; no jumper used for thermocouple; jumper for 2 or 3 wire RTD (if memory serves me - I'm over 50 so my memory is sketchy at best). Once wired correctly you can adjust (compensate) the temp + or - by pressing SET for 5 seconds then press SET again 3 or 4 times (don't remember exactly) till you see something like PYF - there you can adjust probe temp up or down. Hope that helps....

 

[wbarber69]

I just happen take pictures of everything

 

[Brumateur]

Just want to verify, is this the correct way to wire the MyPIN TA4/TD4 to a 3-wire RTD sensor (two red, one white)?

Your diagram is correct. Though you dont need the green jumper wire.

 

[orangehero]

Thanks! Do you happen to know why the connection to 10 in the diagram?

 

[Brumateur]

Connection to 10 required if you have 4 wires PT-100 probe.

 

[Rex411]

BUMP on this thread. The initial diagram is helpful but there is no neutral represented. I'm trying to mock the Electric Brewery wiring schematic(only using the Mypin as opposed to their PID). What would the wiring look like if I'm running 120v from both a power and neutral bus to the PID? I also have a 3-wire RTD probe and an alarm light. Thanks.

 

[wbarber69]

It attaches to the -power input on the MyPin just like it does with all other pids. It can be substituted with a ground if you are only using a 30amp feed.

 

[augiedoggy]

BUMP on this thread. The initial diagram is helpful but there is no neutral represented. I'm trying to mock the Electric Brewery wiring schematic(only using the Mypin as opposed to their PID). What would the wiring look like if I'm running 120v from both a power and neutral bus to the PID? I also have a 3-wire RTD probe and an alarm light. Thanks.

You would substitute one of the hot leads for a neutral ... everything else gets wired the same... (make sure to purchase a 120v alarm)

I see your over in victor.... I work there form time to time... I have customers in the fishers run area.

 

[Majd]

-

 

[asdeal]

ok guys I guess I need to bring back this old thread because I am just out of ideas. I replaced the TC with an RTD (Eathtek New Stainless Steel Waterproof Pt100 Ohm Probe Sensor L 50mm Pt) everything I am reading and the instructions for the mypin td4 snr seem to say blue pin to 7 red to 8&9 and a jumper from 7-10. And I have changed the setting to PT. but I am getting a crazy number that seems to be the "no read" number because it gives me the same number with nothing attached. Any clues?