My RIMS controller

[AngryMonk]

Here is my RIMS controller.

Specs:
- 110V 15A
- Auber Instrument SL-2352 PID controller
- 1 Pump control. Switch and indicator
- 1 Element control. Switch and indicator
- 2 "always on" outlets
- Alarm that monitors mash temp

Safety features:
- Dual pole circuit breaker protects against overload
- I use an external GFCI to protect the user
- Dual pole contactor prevents power to be applied to the element if either pump is off or element switch is on position off

I use a 2" RIMS tube from http://www.brewershardware.com/

The element is a ultra low watt density Camco 02852/02853 1500W from Amazon.

My mash tun is a 10 gallons cooler.

I have brewed about 4 batches with that now, and I have to say, I love it. I heat my strike water with it in about 45min, mash temp is kept spot on within 1 degree F and ramping up to mash out takes about 15/20min.

I am now thinking about building a more advanced version that would include timer and control for 2 pumps so I can brew on a single tier setup. This one may end-up for sale some day ;-)

 

[Geordan]

Would you mind sharing your wiring diagram?

 

[AngryMonk]

Would you mind sharing your wiring diagram?

Absolutely not, I had a quick and dirty diagram I used while wiring, let me see if I can edit a clean one. It is dead simple.

 

[AngryMonk]

Here is the diagram. PID and SSR wiring is not included, but it is very well standard.
Hop I did not miss anything.

View attachment RIMS Controller Diagram.pdf

 

[CptMidway]

Looks bitchin! Thanks for sharing it AngryMonk, very clean build!

 

[AngryMonk]

Looks bitchin! Thanks for sharing it AngryMonk, very clean build!

Thanks, no problem. If you ever want to modify/maintain, gotta be clean and documented

 

[Geordan]

Would you mind running through your brew process? I seem to understand that you're heating your liquor with your RIMS as well -- so you circulate your liquor through the RIMS, then mash in THROUGH the tube? (HLT > RIMS > HLT for mash in)? Then, you switch pump inputs and recirc your mash?
So the question is: how do you heat your sparge water? That's where I can't solve it in my process.

 

[AngryMonk]

Would you mind running through your brew process? I seem to understand that you're heating your liquor with your RIMS as well -- so you circulate your liquor through the RIMS, then mash in THROUGH the tube? (HLT > RIMS > HLT for mash in)? Then, you switch pump inputs and recirc your mash?
So the question is: how do you heat your sparge water? That's where I can't solve it in my process.

I actually still use gas for sparge water and wort boiling.
So the process is as follow:

- Fill my mash tun with appropriate amount of water (cold, filtered tap water).
- Set PID temperature about 10 degres above desired mash temp.
- Let it warm up.
- Stop pump & PID
- Dough in
- Set PID to mash temp, turn pump back on. At that point, I am recirculating mash and temperature is kept constant by PID+RIMS tube
- 25 Min before estimated end of mash, heat sparge water with propane burner.
- When conversion completes (45min to 75min), set PID to mash out 168 degres.
- When sparge water hit 185 degres, transfert to second cooler, HLT.
- After 10 min at 168, start sparging. I have used pump and gravity feeding, depends how I feel
- Boil using gas burner.

 

[Geordan]

Aha, you're doing exactly what I plan on doing. Glad to hear it's not crazy!

 

[AngryMonk]

Aha, you're doing exactly what I plan on doing. Glad to hear it's not crazy!

Not sure my wife would say it's not crazy though

 

[briord1]

Is the controller still available? Price?

 

[AngryMonk]

Is the controller still available? Price?

It sold, sorry. May have a few more of those in a few weeks.

 

[briord1]

It sold, sorry. May have a few more of those in a few weeks.

Where are you located? How much would you charge?

 

[briord1]

I'm just getting started with a RIMS cooler setup. This looks ideal for me. Would you be willing to send me a parts list and wiring diagram?

 

[AngryMonk]

I'm just getting started with a RIMS cooler setup. This looks ideal for me. Would you be willing to send me a parts list and wiring diagram?

Part list and diagram are located in the first post. Send me a PM if you would like to discuss about having one built for you.

 

[briord1]

I'm new to this site. How do I PM? I'm using an ipad

 

[AlexMillerNC]

Great build. Do you recall what size/type enclosure you used? Thanks.

 

[AngryMonk]

Great build. Do you recall what size/type enclosure you used? Thanks.

This is the enclosure I used:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T57WYI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[AlexMillerNC]

Thank you sir. Did you use a specific material for the panel?

 

[AngryMonk]

Thank you sir. Did you use a specific material for the panel?

I used thin plywood, acrylic and anything else than metal would work and be safe.

 

[AlexMillerNC]

Thanks so much for your help. If you don't mind, I have a few more questions:

- What did you use to cut the enclosure, round and square holes?
- Did you use a locking plug/receptacle or a normal 3-prong setup?
- Did yours run on 15A or 20A?

Thanks again!

Alex

P.S. As background, I have a similar build as the one above in mind, with one difference - my pump is in a toolbox build with a GFCI outlet installed, wired so that the pump box outlet (and thus the RIMS controller) only receives power when the pump is turned on. Because of this I don't need a switch to control the pump, an outlet for it or a connecter, etc. to ensure the element be turned on only if the pump switch is on. I'm trying to keep the build as simple as possible while still being redundantly safe.

My plan is for a 110v setup, parts list is below:

Parts List:
NEMA 4 project box
Auber 2352 PID
25A SSR with internal heat sink
Circuit Breaker
2x Selector Switch, 2-Position Maintained 2 NO with LED indicator (one for PID, one for element)
Flashing buzzer, 110v AC for temperature alarm
15A receptacle
15A outlet (for element)
Terminal strips
Brew Hardware RIMS tube
Element: Camco 02932/02933 5500W 240V Foldback, Ultra Low Watt Density

 

[AngryMonk]

Thanks so much for your help. If you don't mind, I have a few more questions:

- What did you use to cut the enclosure, round and square holes?
- Did you use a locking plug/receptacle or a normal 3-prong setup?
- Did yours run on 15A or 20A?

Thanks again!

Alex

P.S. As background, I have a similar build as the one above in mind, with one difference - my pump is in a toolbox build with a GFCI outlet installed, wired so that the pump box outlet (and thus the RIMS controller) only receives power when the pump is turned on. Because of this I don't need a switch to control the pump, an outlet for it or a connecter, etc. to ensure the element be turned on only if the pump switch is on. I'm trying to keep the build as simple as possible while still being redundantly safe.

My plan is for a 110v setup, parts list is below:

Parts List:
NEMA 4 project box
Auber 2352 PID
25A SSR with internal heat sink
Circuit Breaker
2x Selector Switch, 2-Position Maintained 2 NO with LED indicator (one for PID, one for element)
Flashing buzzer, 110v AC for temperature alarm
15A receptacle
15A outlet (for element)
Terminal strips
Brew Hardware RIMS tube
Element: Camco 02932/02933 5500W 240V Foldback, Ultra Low Watt Density

I used a stepped drill bit for round holes and Dremel for square holes.
I used regular 3 prong receptacles, everything is 15A due to my old and poor electric setup at home.

Be careful with simplifying too much, for instance, these cheap switches are rated for 10A, you can use them to control a relay, rated 15A or 20A depending your setup.

 

[AlexMillerNC]

Thanks again man. When you caution against simplifying, do you see something missing on the parts list?
Also, I may be seeing this wrong but do you have four outlets in the build? If so, why?
Appreciate all the help.

 

[AngryMonk]

Thanks again man. When you caution against simplifying, do you see something missing on the parts list?
Also, I may be seeing this wrong but do you have four outlets in the build? If so, why?
Appreciate all the help.

Welcome.
I always recommend mechanical, two-pole relay to manually shutdown element if necessary. SSR have the very bad habit to fail in close position, which may be dangerous.
I have 4 outlets because I had the room for it, never used the 4 of them.

 

[AlexMillerNC]

Okay thanks. One more: The contactors Auber sells start at 30A, and the 2-pole breakers start at 20A. My outlets are 15A, is there any reason to use or not the higher-rated contactor and breaker? If so do you have a good source for better selection?
Thanks again.

 

[AngryMonk]

Okay thanks. One more: The contactors Auber sells start at 30A, and the 2-pole breakers start at 20A. My outlets are 15A, is there any reason to use or not the higher-rated contactor and breaker? If so do you have a good source for better selection?
Thanks again.

Circuit breaker must be <= to your outlet rating and > to the circuit you are protecting.

For the contactor, it must be >= to the element.

The guys at Auber Instruments are nice and will spend time to answer your question. They even created a custom timer firmware to my request so I like to support them. Their prices are fair, so I would go with them.

 

[AlexMillerNC]

Got it, thanks. One last question - what gauge wire did you use? Looks like 16 or 14 but can't be sure. Thanks!

 

[gueykewl]

Would you mind reposting controller diagram. For some reason I couldn't see it.

Thanks


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