My (Re)Build Thread - Kal Clone-ish

[SilverZero]

Here's a start-to-finish of my boil kettle fitting attachments.

It all starts with a couple of pilot holes:



My trusty sidekick, Drilliam Shatner. No, wait . . . Drill Ferrell! Drill Pullman? Drillian Michaels? I'm still working on it.



Holes drilled out to 3/4" which is the full diameter of that step bit, so I just run it through. These Concord pots drill so easily. Took about 30 seconds per hole, including pauses to add more thread cutting oil.



Dimpling tool made from a 1/2" bolt, a couple of 1/2" sockets (Craftsman, of course), and some washers and a nut:




About two full turns of the wrench to get the dimple going without making the hole too large for the fitting:



Just baaaaarely too tight to get the coupling threaded all the way through:




I gave the assembly another half turn or so and it was perfect. To be continued . . . .

 

[SilverZero]

Once the hole was big enough to thread the coupling through I assembled the dimple tool again with the fitting in place of the smaller socket and pulled it through to seat it and pull the tiny bit just past the threads through. Half of them got a nice mechanical fit, the other half came out a bit loose. Oh, and I sanded and cleaned everything before this step so I'd know it was ready if it did seat well.





Hey, this riding mower works way better than the sawhorses I was using for the ferrule soldering a few days back!



This fitting was not a great mechanical fit, so I hung a long rod through it just to weigh it down and keep it straight while I heated and soldered. I wrapped each fitting with two wraps of silver solder before fluxing and heating. It also helped to tweak the position once the solder flowed but was still wet, so I could get everything straight.





Here's the flow on the second fitting before and after cleaning off the roasted flux:





I have about 2" of silver solder left from the $10 kit I got at Airgas, which means it was enough for two 2" ferrules and six couplings using a pretty generous amount on each, plus a tiny bit of touch-up work on the ferrule that leaked the first time. Plenty of flux left from the 0.5 oz. bottle.

 

[SilverZero]

Leak testing was a success on all three kettles! This isn't the final plumbing, just something to hold the water in. Sorry, California, I know that's a lot of water to be throwing around on a hobby. I guess if I was serious about water conservation I wouldn't be a home brewer.




Did a quick sponge bath with some Oxiclean on all three vessels and put them back in the boxes. Next steps include fabricating element enclosures and a brew stand, and then getting cam locks and hoses. Most of that might not happen until I've moved into the new house early next month. I have a feeling I'm going to be short on free time after this week. Summer is ending and work starts up again soon!

 

[SilverZero]

Well, I really wanted to have my element enclosures built today, but I ordered the wrong part. Had to reorder and now it will be some time. I did get some TC end caps and drilled a couple of them for cord grips and grounding lugs. That was actually easy going with the drill press once I figured out how to secure the piece for torque. I didn't take any pictures but I'll put up a pic of the rig later.

I dry fit my element in the kettles for fun, too. They sit 4" up at the top of the element, which will require just over 4 gallons to cover. I'd never brew less than 5 anyway, and probably won't do less than 10-12 very often so it should be okay. But I do wish I'd mounted the ferrules lower (like at 2" instead of 3-1/2" on center). I think my rationale was to leave plenty of room for a false bottom or whatever, but at least in the HLT there's no need to have it mounted very high at all, especially using TC mounting hardware. If I was still using a junction box enclosure it might be useful to have it higher, but I'm not.

Let's see... what else? I ordered a dryer plug and cord to replace the SOOW I already have, because it's cheaper. Anybody need 6 feet of 10/4 SOOW?

I also got some bits and pieces for a more durable BrewPi box on order, so that's coming as well. I'm moving slowly because I know I'll be moving into the new house next week or the week after. I guess I could count up how many camlock fittings I'll need and start looking for deals on those. That and silicone tubing. I'll wait until I get paid and then get going that direction. Maybe I'll cut some copper and build a manifold for the mash tun. I might have all the pieces I need.

That's all for now!

 

[SilverZero]

Got my stainless spool tubing today so I cut it and assembled one element enclosure just to see about sizing. It's probably too long, I just used regular lead-free solder so I might take it apart and cut it down an inch or less. I figure I saved $30 or more making this myself (times 2) vs. the cheapest enclosure I could find pre-made. Plus DIY is so fun! I'll document the other one tomorrow.

Still not moved so I'm still not ready to test my panel. I'll order camlocks and hoses, and cut my element cords and finish that side of things tomorrow. I'll also show y'all the hunk of steel I'm planning to mangle for my brew station.

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[tennesseean_87]

subbed

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

Crazy to build your own enclosures, how much did each cost you?

 

[SilverZero]

I guess it wasn't as good as I thought. Adding up all the costs and dividing them up says $32.60 per for everything shown except the element itself. Stilldragon can do a pre-made version of this (which is what I copied) and ship it for $43.11 each. So I guess I saved $23 on the whole shebang doing it myself. Plus my own labor.

 

[jcav]

I think you did an excellent job making your own enclosures. Pretty slick!



John

 

[Mdsutton]

SilverZero,
What wiring Diagram did you use?

Thanks!

 

[brrman]

Where did you get those bushings/couplings that you soldered into the dimpled holes?
I have been looking for those but only see them coming from China on Ebay...

 

[SilverZero]

Where did you get those bushings/couplings that you soldered into the dimpled holes?
I have been looking for those but only see them coming from China on Ebay...

Exactly.

 

[SilverZero]

SilverZero,
What wiring Diagram did you use?

Thanks!

I mostly just referred to Kal's info on theelectricbrewery.com and modified it as I saw fit. I had to improvise a little because I wasn't happy with trying to double up some terminals in some components and so forth. I'm comfortable enough with electricity that I can tell how things will work, but ask me again when I've actually powered it up for the first time.

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

Where did you get those bushings/couplings that you soldered into the dimpled holes?
I have been looking for those but only see them coming from China on Ebay...

These aren't exactly the same, you couldn't pull them to dimple but they should solder in the same

http://www.brewershardware.com/Spec...1-2-Male-out-side-and-1-2-Female-inside..html

Actually because of it's flat lip middle wall instead of a sloped one like silverzero used, you might able to solder it to a pot without dimpling the pot, it should give you enough surface area?

 

[SilverZero]

These aren't exactly the same, you couldn't pull them to dimple but they should solder in the same

http://www.brewershardware.com/Spec...1-2-Male-out-side-and-1-2-Female-inside..html

Actually because of it's flat lip middle wall instead of a sloped one like silverzero used, you might able to solder it to a pot without dimpling the pot, it should give you enough surface area?

That's what I would have done if I had found those before the shouldered ones I used. Dimpling is fun and gives you some freedom on hole size but it's an extra step and potential to screw it up. Flat to the wall gives good surface area (I'd think the curvature of the kettle is negligible at that size) but you'd have to be careful on the hole to get a good mechanical fit. Even so, half of mine were loose before soldering them anyway. That solder is pleasantly strong.

In other news, I shortened and resoldered the element enclosures down to 2", swapped the SOOW for a 4-prong dryer cord on my panel, and ordered my camlocks and barbs for the plumbing. I ordered high-flow female barbs for the movable hose ends and 3/4 barbs on 1/2 npt fittings for the ends that won't be moving around. Added a couple of tees and various pieces to get it all fitted properly. Doing barbs where possible shaved $30 or so, plus I'm leaning toward thermoplastic tubing. Still have to measure for that.

 

[brrman]

I'm not new to the soldering task - I soldered the flanges to my kettles for the elements. The rest of my setup is weldless, tho, so was thinking the dimpled ones might be easier to solder.

The BrewersHardware ones look great also - perhaps I will go with those.

I am also going to borrow your idea for the extra drain/priming valve after the pumps. Great thinking.

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

As long as you use flux it should pull through the front and solder that shoulder to the inside of your pot just fine with enough heat.

 

[SilverZero]

As long as you use flux it should pull through the front and solder that shoulder to the inside of your pot just fine with enough heat.

And I'll remind anybody who cares that I got a $10 Radnor kit from AirGas that covered both 2" ferrules and 6 couplings plus a bit of touch-up work with about half a bottle of flux left over. I just got a 2nd kit to do the element enclosures. So you might be able to find some locally if you're impatient.

 

[SilverZero]

I've got two bombers of Hop Valley Alpha Centauri in me right now (best beer ever, by the way), so I decided to read through my own thread and take a trip down Memory Ln. It turns out I've broken a lot of promises along the way. I never showed you the frame I'm using for my brew stand, I still haven't closed on my new house (freaking underwriters, man), and I still haven't finished spending money on this project. Off the top of my head, I still need tubing, manifolds for the MT and BK, LocLine for the MT, and I still need to assemble a whirlpool/return arm for the BK. I don't think I'll be moved and assembled in time for a pumpkin ale this year, but I still hope to celebrate Christmas and the birth of my 4th little one with an EPIC CDA.

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

I've got two bombers of Hop Valley Alpha Centauri in me right now (best beer ever, by the way), so I decided to read through my own thread and take a trip down Memory Ln. It turns out I've broken a lot of promises along the way. I never showed you the frame I'm using for my brew stand, I still haven't closed on my new house (freaking underwriters, man), and I still haven't finished spending money on this project. Off the top of my head, I still need tubing, manifolds for the MT and BK, LocLine for the MT, and I still need to assemble a whirlpool/return arm for the BK. I don't think I'll be moved and assembled in time for a pumpkin ale this year, but I still hope to celebrate Christmas and the birth of my 4th little one with an EPIC CDA.

Ha I got a corny keg of hop valley citrus mistress from our house warming party this last weekend. Feels weird not having my own on tap but works

 

[jcav]

Don't worry SilverZero, you didn't break any promises. Life gets in the way sometimes. All you can do is the best you can in this world and keep your head up. Looks like a new job, a new house coming soon, an excellent start on a awesome electric brewery which will get done when it gets done, is all good stuff brother! The birth soon of your fourth child, that is the most important thing!!! And being a great dad! The rest takes a back seat. But once everything settles down and you finally get in that new house and brew on your new rig, you will enjoy it all the more. Lots of luck brother!

John

 

[SilverZero]

Got my camlocks and some other hardware last week. I'm really happy I ordered high flow everything (camlock female barbs and larger stainless barbs with 1/2" ID) because there will be no restriction at any point that I can think of. I still need tubing, but I ran out of hobby funds for the month.

I'm currently cutting slots in my copper manifolds I'm installing in my MLT and BK. It's always a huge pain because there's really no other way besides a hacksaw. I'm tired of sawing for now, might get some more done tonight. I'll post a picture of them later.

If I get moved into the new house next week I'll hopefully get my electric run by next weekend. If I can do that, and get a few last pieces gathered (tubing or LocLine for the sparge and whirlpool returns on the kettles) I think I just might be brewing by mid-October. Barely enough time to get a batch done in time to host Thanksgiving!

 

[SilverZero]

Well, new job, new house, new baby, new year... and I'm finally getting back to this build. I haven't done anything for months, but I'm determined to get brewing before spring hits. The last things on my list are to get tubing and LocLine purchased, install the 240v circuit in my garage, and get a grain mill purchased and installed in my brewery (motorized). If I can I'll also run a water line to the brew area and put it on a spray arm. It's still a fair bit of work but I can see the end from here!

 

[jcav]

Hey SilverZero, glad to see your back at it! I finally finished mine and brew day number two is coming up next week. Happy New Year and keep us posted on your progress....

John

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

Ha, yea i did the same type of thing..marriage, baby, new house all in 1 year...god it was busy...cant wait to see the finished product.

 

[SilverZero]

It lives!

Only took a bit of troubleshooting to get it all spit-spot. I had my element lights reversed, and I was getting some voltage to the panel even with the main keyed switch off, figured out it was from the wiring to the meter going straight off the main power input before the contactor, and it was drawing power and feeding the rest of the components. Quick fixes for both, and it seems I escaped any damage.

The timer was the biggest hassle. I originally had it wired how I guessed it would work. It wasn't. My trouble was in how to wire the reset and gate circuits so it would be paused when I power the panel on, and reset with my big red button. I need to add a switch to actually start the timer when I want to count down, but that should be easy. I'm going to look for a combination momentary+latching switch so I don't have to add a new hole. Maybe.

But it works!

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[Rockn_M]

It lives!

Only took a bit of troubleshooting to get it all spit-spot. I had my element lights reversed, and I was getting some voltage to the panel even with the main keyed switch off, figured out it was from the wiring to the meter going straight off the main power input before the contactor, and it was drawing power and feeding the rest of the components. Quick fixes for both, and it seems I escaped any damage.

The timer was the biggest hassle. I originally had it wired how I guessed it would work. It wasn't. My trouble was in how to wire the reset and gate circuits so it would be paused when I power the panel on, and reset with my big red button. I need to add a switch to actually start the timer when I want to count down, but that should be easy. I'm going to look for a combination momentary+latching switch so I don't have to add a new hole. Maybe.

But it works!

It looks like your using the same timer I have. The way I wired it is when you hit the reset button it will start the clock. Either that's how the directions told me to wire it or I have it wired incorrectly.

 

[SilverZero]

Edit: Never mind, I got it going. Disregard this post.

Hey Rockn_M, Would you mind posting your wiring?

This is an Inkbird timer, IDT-E2RH B2E. Sestos ripoff, I think, but from what I can tell the gate has to be maintained to run the timer. It starts right at power on and pauses when (and while) gate is grounded, or starts paused and runs when gate is maintained grounded. Reset circuit is momentary, that's no problem, but I think I need a maintained switch for the gate.

 

[SilverZero]

I ran my electrical line and installed a spa panel today. Control panel fires up as it should, so all's well on the electrical front.

I also ran hot and cold water lines tapped from my water heater, pretty easy project and now I've got water right where I need it. Once I mount my control panel, pumps, and C-HERMS coil I'll be just about ready to give it a test run.

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[augiedoggy]

Edit: Never mind, I got it going. Disregard this post.

Hey Rockn_M, Would you mind posting your wiring?

This is an Inkbird timer, IDT-E2RH B2E. Sestos ripoff, I think, but from what I can tell the gate has to be maintained to run the timer. It starts right at power on and pauses when (and while) gate is grounded, or starts paused and runs when gate is maintained grounded. Reset circuit is momentary, that's no problem, but I think I need a maintained switch for the gate.

Its not really a sestos rip off it is made on the same line as the ones sold as sestos and is identical in function. inkbird is just another brand like setos or aubrins.. sestos never made them to begin with as far as I know. If you have $1000 to spare you can order them with your name on the front too if you want from alibaba... Thats how it works in china. if you go on newegg you can find those mypin pids being sold as apgtek brand pids..

I see you figured it out but I use a momentary switch to reset my timer... you need a maintained one for the pause feature though.