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passedpawn said:
I've done 2 showers myself just like yours (in fact,I have the same travertine tiles on my master floor). Your's looks great!

I've never even heard of that Kerdi stuff. Man that would make the job easier. I poured the concrete pan over rubber pan liner. The liner tucks up behind concrete board walls. The liner also goes over the curb, which I build by stacking/nailing 2x4s. It's all a lot of work. I bought a wet saw a long time ago and do the tiles, but I'm still not that good at it.

There have been products before Kerdi, that's the latest foam backed plastic preformed right? I've seen( going backwards) pre poured asbestos ceramic, metal, copper, and lead. Obviously coppers the way to go but the price has gone crazy. I do exactly what you said but regular clear plastic to start the vapor barrier, heavy shower liner, the "tub" gets Hardi board or the first pour of concrete, heavy liner again, concrete con caved to the drain and then thin set and mortar. Samething you did with the threshold 2x4 or 6. Since everything I do is custom it's easier than trying to work with standard corporate sizes. Although, almost all the guys doing production work swear by it.

Of course you have to frame out for the weight.

A couple dozen and ner a call back over a decade, including some Third and fourth floors.
 
There have been products before Kerdi, that's the latest foam backed plastic preformed right? I've seen( going backwards) pre poured asbestos ceramic, metal, copper, and lead. Obviously coppers the way to go but the price has gone crazy. I do exactly what you said but regular clear plastic to start the vapor barrier, heavy shower liner, the "tub" gets Hardi board or the first pour of concrete, heavy liner again, concrete con caved to the drain and then thin set and mortar. Samething you did with the threshold 2x4 or 6. Since everything I do is custom it's easier than trying to work with standard corporate sizes. Although, almost all the guys doing production work swear by it.

Of course you have to frame out for the weight.

A couple dozen and ner a call back over a decade, including some Third and fourth floors.

My current home has 6" recesses in the slab for all showers. That's nice, since I probably don't need a liner at all. But I did it anyway.
 
Nice job,
I am a journeyman tile setter. I use nothing but the kerdi system for showers now There is no reason to use anything els. The foam pans come in enough sizes and it just makes sense to have a single stage drain system. It will last you forever so good choice.

Having said that I have don't many traditional showers before kerdi was around which involved a pre slope, then liner, then drain clamps the liner, this is where the secondary weeping holes drain the mud bed, then a sloped mud bed made with dry pack mortar, then thinset and tile. I always formed my curbs and used drypack and ran the liner inside the curb. 2*4 curbs are just not good, 90% of shower failures are because of a 2x4 curb. Having said that there is a proper way to do it with 2x4,s and its wrapping the liner up over the wood, folding a piece of lathe around the curb to hold it in place and screeding 1.5 to 2" of mortar over the entire curb. This is all very time consuming and a multi day process. Now you have a thick mud bed that gets saturated over time with body oils and bacteria and just gets gross and stinks.
A kerdi system or any surface based waterproofing solution is what should be used now.
Just my opinion as well as some facts
So good choice, you obviously did your research
 
2*4 curbs are just not good, 90% of shower failures are because of a 2x4 curb.

while this wasn't the reason for my failure, the previous curb was totally rotten and falling apart. it probably would have failed pretty soon. He also built up like 2-3 layers of tile on top of the 2x4 curb for whatever reason. more height i guess. it was strange.
 
Nice job,
I am a journeyman tile setter. I use nothing but the kerdi system for showers now There is no reason to use anything els. The foam pans come in enough sizes and it just makes sense to have a single stage drain system. It will last you forever so good choice.

Having said that I have don't many traditional showers before kerdi was around which involved a pre slope, then liner, then drain clamps the liner, this is where the secondary weeping holes drain the mud bed, then a sloped mud bed made with dry pack mortar, then thinset and tile. I always formed my curbs and used drypack and ran the liner inside the curb. 2*4 curbs are just not good, 90% of shower failures are because of a 2x4 curb. Having said that there is a proper way to do it with 2x4,s and its wrapping the liner up over the wood, folding a piece of lathe around the curb to hold it in place and screeding 1.5 to 2" of mortar over the entire curb. This is all very time consuming and a multi day process. Now you have a thick mud bed that gets saturated over time with body oils and bacteria and just gets gross and stinks.
A kerdi system or any surface based waterproofing solution is what should be used now.
Just my opinion as well as some facts
So good choice, you obviously did your research

Okay. I got a question. I've never done ceramic tile on a floor. Maybe this is obvious to any who has. I've taken up the baseboards and leveled the slab floor. It needed it before any sub-floor or underlay went on. Even thought the foundation was repaired, the floor still had a hump in it. Now, once all this additional flooring goes in and is that much higher, how does the commode and tub fit back in? I mean, it was fine when all I did was slap down some vinyl tile on the slab to replace the carpet (yes really. carpet in the bathroom) but going ceramic, do I need to raise up the plumbing to meet the commode and claw foot tub drain?
 
Okay. I got a question. I've never done ceramic tile on a floor. Maybe this is obvious to any who has. I've taken up the baseboards and leveled the slab floor. It needed it before any sub-floor or underlay went on. Even thought the foundation was repaired, the floor still had a hump in it. Now, once all this additional flooring goes in and is that much higher, how does the commode and tub fit back in? I mean, it was fine when all I did was slap down some vinyl tile on the slab to replace the carpet (yes really. carpet in the bathroom) but going ceramic, do I need to raise up the plumbing to meet the commode and claw foot tub drain?

I think i understand what you're asking.

you mean the toilet drain, right? you either have to extend the drain pipe if it's not long enough, or you could put the toilet on the sub and tile around it, provided the toilet has a base profile so that it would look good.
 
motobrewer said:
I think i understand what you're asking.

you mean the toilet drain, right? you either have to extend the drain pipe if it's not long enough, or you could put the toilet on the sub and tile around it, provided the toilet has a base profile so that it would look good.

When you renovate on existing there are "flange spacers" at your plumbing supply, HD, Lowes, they screw down on the flange after you scrape the wax off. I don't know your specifics so this general. The flange spacers are about ten bucks, you'll also want to get the extended wax ring. Yea your tub drain will need to be longer.
 
Zuljin said:

Oh **** I just reread that! Really? I've done dozens upon dozens and no, I have never seen carpet. Sheetrock once but no not carpet. that's just f in gross. Good job getting that out!
 
Oh **** I just reread that! Really? I've done dozens upon dozens and no, I have never seen carpet. Sheetrock once but no not carpet. that's just f in gross. Good job getting that out!

That's my grandparents house sweet shag carpet caressing your toes
 
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