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My insane 25 Gal, 100 Percent Hard Plumbed Tri-Clover, Automated Tippy Build

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Maybe they think it's unnecessary because the chiller isn't sanitary as is and welding the fittings on properly is a lot of work. I just welded tri clamp end caps on one of those for a HBT member and noticed that the existing welds (not mine) protruded into the wort tube and were a little funky (bumpy and sugared). It looks like they're not back purging the inside of the wort tube or they're using using too much heat during welding (which I can tell from looking at the outside of the chiller). These chillers should be sanitized with heat as opposed to chemicals for that reason.

Sanitary or not, tri clamp fittings are nice, especially if all of your other fittings are tri clamp.

Well I bet a lot of the people buying them are running TCs. And the non-standard diameter on it means it's difficult to hook anything up to other than a hose. It just doesn't seem like a complete product yet.
 
Sounds good. One suggestion would be, when you stop the arc do not move for several seconds and let your gas run tell the weld cools a bit. It will make for less oxidation and fewer problems down the road.

I might be a bit too critical. I used to be an aeronautical tig welder and they busted our balls hard during initial certification and re-certifications were not much fun either.

Stick with the thoriated tungsten it is much better than ceriated. Just try not to ingest the dust when you sharpen thoriated, it is slightly radioactive.

Thank you for the tip, I will try that asap. That is probably why I have slightly darker spots on my welds! I am an amateur welder, I didn't expect this rig to be all sanitary (fermenter quality) because of some of my welds. I just wanted it close. With that being said, If I ever go into producing these I will hire a full time welder.
 
Well I bet a lot of the people buying them are running TCs. And the non-standard diameter on it means it's difficult to hook anything up to other than a hose. It just doesn't seem like a complete product yet.

Everything about that chiller seemed off to me. Besides i wanted the convoluted copper chiller and not just a stainless tube.
 
Maybe they think it's unnecessary because the chiller isn't sanitary as is and welding the fittings on properly is a lot of work. I just welded tri clamp end caps on one of those for a HBT member and noticed that the existing welds (not mine) protruded into the wort tube and were a little funky (bumpy and sugared). It looks like they're not back purging the inside of the wort tube or they're using using too much heat during welding (which I can tell from looking at the outside of the chiller). These chillers should be sanitized with heat as opposed to chemicals for that reason.

Sanitary or not, tri clamp fittings are nice, especially if all of your other fittings are tri clamp.

I would just like to say kevink is THE MAN when it comes to welding. :mug:

If he's local to you or you don't mind the shipping $, definitely give him a go.
 
Kevink,

How much do you charge per weld? I have been thinking about producing some parts
 
I finished the pump mounts tonight and ruined my water filter! Awesome.

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uberg33k said:
How did you ruin the water filter?

It was an inline 3 stage Carthage filter- I was soldering way down the line and the residual heat started melting the threads... Rookie move. Now I have a two stage filter. Lol
 
kickflip_mj said:
It was an inline 3 stage Carthage filter- I was soldering way down the line and the residual heat started melting the threads... Rookie move. Now I have a two stage filter. Lol

Is it a standard housing? Send a pic, I might have an extra kicking around....
 
marcb said:
Is it a standard housing? Send a pic, I might have an extra kicking around....

It's a whole house 3/8",that would be sweet if you do. If not I can just cut the third out.

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jbaysurfer said:
I showed this to swmbo. She now thinks I'm slightly less crazy. Slightly. ;)

Thanks Kickflip!

Haha I'm glad I can help out a fellow brewer, now take advantage of the moment. Go buy something and blame it on me!
 
Some welding shots, I'm sure some of you guys can pick it apart. Lol

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Volume sensor, but it still needs the dip tube.

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Managed to get the thermowell welded in the Bk

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Some of my water in piping

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Some of the sickest plumbing and welds I have seen on a brew masterpiece!

Keep up the good work!

Recently, a new guy started where I work, he speaks 4 languages is going to Harvard for his second Master's Degree, most humble and nicest guy you'd ever meet. To say the least he makes me feel a little inadequate.

You sir make me envious and feel extremely inadequate!

Awesome rig seriously, although . . . I think you probably already know that!
 
Those welds are looking good! Welding small diameter pipe is one of the harder things for most welders to do, particularly with those flanges in the way making it harder to hold the torch angle where you need it.
 
Those welds are looking good! Welding small diameter pipe is one of the harder things for most welders to do, particularly with those flanges in the way making it harder to hold the torch angle where you need it.

Thanks! I have been having a hard time keeping the arc consistent, I don't know what it is, sometimes its running way to high then other times its perfect like the weld I just showed you.
 
Some of the sickest plumbing and welds I have seen on a brew masterpiece!

Keep up the good work!

Recently, a new guy started where I work, he speaks 4 languages is going to Harvard for his second Master's Degree, most humble and nicest guy you'd ever meet. To say the least he makes me feel a little inadequate.

You sir make me envious and feel extremely inadequate!

Awesome rig seriously, although . . . I think you probably already know that!

Ha probably the best post. You definitely lifted me up with these comments, thank you!

Schnitz, I know you have the skills in you, you just have to practice. I bought my tig machine about a year ago and I have been practicing a few times a week.
 
Thanks! I have been having a hard time keeping the arc consistent, I don't know what it is, sometimes its running way to high then other times its perfect like the weld I just showed you.

A foot control and practice can help a lot with consistency and maintaining an even heat.

If your welding helmet has darker lenses than needed going a bit lighter can help you see what is going on but never go so light that it will compromise your long term vision.

It is very hard to do on pipe but maintaining a consistent angle, distance, and smooth continuous weld without stops and starts helps a lot.

Playing with the angle you grind on the electrode tell you find what works best for you is helpful.

After you grind a new point get a small sheet of copper about an 1/8th of an inch thick or so and strike an ark on it and let a small amount transfer to the electrode. You do not need to touch the copper just switch over to AC for the copper then back to DC for welding, if you have the option. If you do not have the AC option then the copper might not be much help but is worth a try.
 
I think my biggest problem is I am splitting my argon for shielding and also for my torch. What would cause my arch to suddenly get to hot from one weld to another? Is it how much argon I am running?
 
I think my biggest problem is I am splitting my argon for shielding and also for my torch. What would cause my arch to suddenly get to hot from one weld to another? Is it how much argon I am running?

I do not think so. You just need enough argon to exclude oxygen. If you can afford to add it to your system oil free nitrogen makes a good back up gas ( for the back of the weld) and is much cheaper than argon. If you can get it as a mixed gas, argon and nitrogen, it works good as a cover gas.

Normally getting too hot has to with thickness differences in material or retained heat as you continue the weld. That is one thing that a foot control is great for, because you can vary the current as you weld. If you have an air cooled torch that might also be a factor. I do not know for sure, all I have ever used are water cooled 100% duty cycle torches.
 
I do not think so. You just need enough argon to exclude oxygen. If you can afford to add it to your system oil free nitrogen makes a good back up gas ( for the back of the weld) and is much cheaper than argon. If you can get it as a mixed gas, argon and nitrogen, it works good as a cover gas.

Normally getting too hot has to with thickness differences in material or retained heat as you continue the weld. That is one thing that a foot control is great for, because you can vary the current as you weld. If you have an air cooled torch that might also be a factor. I do not know for sure, all I have ever used are water cooled 100% duty cycle torches.

I think you nailed it. I have been turning off the argon and back on to barley hear the gas out of the torch. Kinda a finesse thing with welding, I should probably buy a different welder, but that is going to have to wait till I finish this project. I probably will move to 50 gal kettles next year anyways.
 
I wonder if you're contaminating your tungsten. If you don't already have a dedicated, diamond tungsten grinder, you should think about it. I made one out of a $40 circular saw blade sharpener and it works awesome. Here's the one I bought. I can post a picture of the finished product a little later if you want.

www.harborfreight.com/120-volt-circular-saw-blade-sharpener-96687.html
 
Thats probably exactly it! what blade did you get?

It actually comes with a diamond wheel which, by itself, costs $10 or something like that. The saw blade sharpener is a really good deal for sharpening tungsten. I wouldn't trust it to sharpen saw blades, though! The mechanism, which you do not need if you use it for sharpening tungstens, is really sloppy. Typical harbor freight crap!
 
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