Hi folks -
Thought I'd share my conversion. Following is based on these threads about this fridge:
http://projectkegerator.blogspot.com/2010/08/project-kegerator.html
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/frigidaire-model-frc445gb-mini-fridge-kegerator-conversion-89013/ <--- this is a great thread
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/kegerator-conversion-frigidaire-lfph44m4lm-221800/
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/frigidaire-model-frc445gb-keg-conversion-157618/
Couple notes about this conversion:
1) sometimes, the refrigerant lines are not parallel with each other. Like mine
2) don't let your local hardware store sell you an expensive sheetmetal diameter saw. The sheetmetal ~maybe 3/32" thick. I was able to use a wood bit and slowly drill through it very easily
3) The lid - is very fragile and glued down. TAKE YOUR TIME. I am a pretty patient person but even i got a stress crack in the back part of the lid. I found using putty tools (like shown in the photo) worked well for sliding up the sides of the lid and kind of breaking some of the glue. I then started to pull from both corners. GO SLOW
4) Putting the lid back on. There are two tabs shown in the photo below. Because of how the fridge was manufactured, i couldn't get the lid back on with the full depth of the tabs. However, shaving 1/8" off, i was able to pry enough and snap the front side back in. For the rear, there are two sheet metal screws you can leverage through the top of the lid, or push it back down.
5). Copper vs Forced air. Seems forced air is the best but I've read good results from copper. If I get foamy pours, i may go back and work a fan in there. The materials for this were more than i was wanting to spend and i already had the copper laying around.
remove the door:
start to slowly pry the lid off (it's glued down)
Use a second tool to lift both sides of corner
need to offset depth in foam for tower reinforcement
Now.. gotta dig down in the foam to the refrigerant lines
about 3.25" deep
smoothed out a bit
3/4" plywood reinforcement
top of lid (need to shave off ribs)
front latch/lid tabs (i needed to shave 1/8" off of them)
Thought I'd share my conversion. Following is based on these threads about this fridge:
http://projectkegerator.blogspot.com/2010/08/project-kegerator.html
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/frigidaire-model-frc445gb-mini-fridge-kegerator-conversion-89013/ <--- this is a great thread
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/kegerator-conversion-frigidaire-lfph44m4lm-221800/
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/frigidaire-model-frc445gb-keg-conversion-157618/
Couple notes about this conversion:
1) sometimes, the refrigerant lines are not parallel with each other. Like mine
2) don't let your local hardware store sell you an expensive sheetmetal diameter saw. The sheetmetal ~maybe 3/32" thick. I was able to use a wood bit and slowly drill through it very easily
3) The lid - is very fragile and glued down. TAKE YOUR TIME. I am a pretty patient person but even i got a stress crack in the back part of the lid. I found using putty tools (like shown in the photo) worked well for sliding up the sides of the lid and kind of breaking some of the glue. I then started to pull from both corners. GO SLOW
4) Putting the lid back on. There are two tabs shown in the photo below. Because of how the fridge was manufactured, i couldn't get the lid back on with the full depth of the tabs. However, shaving 1/8" off, i was able to pry enough and snap the front side back in. For the rear, there are two sheet metal screws you can leverage through the top of the lid, or push it back down.
5). Copper vs Forced air. Seems forced air is the best but I've read good results from copper. If I get foamy pours, i may go back and work a fan in there. The materials for this were more than i was wanting to spend and i already had the copper laying around.
remove the door:
start to slowly pry the lid off (it's glued down)
Use a second tool to lift both sides of corner
need to offset depth in foam for tower reinforcement
Now.. gotta dig down in the foam to the refrigerant lines
about 3.25" deep
smoothed out a bit
3/4" plywood reinforcement
top of lid (need to shave off ribs)
front latch/lid tabs (i needed to shave 1/8" off of them)