My first NEIPA - yeast info needed

[Dgallo]

Also i'd like to ask when to transfer the beer into another bucket? The same day Before bottling? Or a few(how many) days earlier?
If i do it in the following way, it will be ok?-> clear the new bucket and use starsan on it, then purge it with co2, transfer beer with a bottling syphone, put on the top, push in some co2 over the beer.

Your going to want to rack your beer into the bottling bucket right before bottling. Make your priming sugar solution first and put that in your sterilized bottling bucket Then rack your beer on top with your process you mentioned. This will eliminate the need for your to stir the beer and help avoid to avoid oxygen. As stated by someone earlier, oxygen negatively effects all beer, but it’s effects on heavily hopped beers can be catastrophic on flavor. Another thing that will help eliminate oxygen at time of bottling warmer. You said your beer will be 72 at that point so that’s good, just make sure your bottles are warm too.

P.S. - This is a total side note but In the future you should think about a kegging system. Especially if you will continue to make NEIPA’s. No matter how hard you try eliminating oxygen, the process of bottle conditioning will always expose your beer to more oxygen then if you kegged. Bottling involves at minimum one more transfer and the headspace left in the necks of the bottle will always get forced into your beer as they are conditioning. This is all for a future conversation. Good luck finishing out this brew.

 

[adam88]

Yes, i know that a keg system is better (or necessary), but it has a quite high cost in my country, so i'd like to get the equipment from step by step.

 

[Jag75]

Kegging is costly at first . If you have any way to get a soda stream it could be beneficial to your botteling.

 

[IslandLizard]

But maybe i made a mistake. When i spoke about hops... i meant hop-pellets. So i do not have whole hops but hop pellets(small pellets). Even in this case it is recommended to not put the pellets into anything but into the wort itself?

99% or more of hops used are pellets. They're very OK to use, also smaller and easier to store than whole hops. Store hops in the freezer (!) in their original mylar or multilayer O2 barrier bags. Eliminate air contact during storage. Some will vacuum seal the bags or flush with Nitrogen (I flush with CO2 to expel the air) before returning/storing in freezer.

Again, do not dry hop in bags, unless... [what I wrote before].

Remember, wort becomes beer after you add yeast.

Get yourself a copy of Palmer's How to Brew, 4th Edition. I can't urge beginning brewers enough to read and study up before brewing. That book is the single, most comprehensive guide to homebrewing.
In a pinch you can get a lot of information from his old 1st edition, online. But it is a bit dated so newer techniques are not covered. The principles of brewing, however, haven't changed.

 

[IslandLizard]

Yes, i know that a keg system is better (or necessary), but it has a quite high cost in my country, so i'd like to get the equipment from step by step.

What is your source of CO2, do you have a tank with a regulator? If so, you're half way to kegging.

Kegging is costly at first . If you have any way to get a soda stream it could be beneficial to your botteling.

Isn't Sodastream one of the most expensive sources of CO2 in the world?

If i do it in the following way, it will be ok?-> clear the new bucket and use starsan on it, then purge it with co2, transfer beer with a bottling syphone, put on the top, push in some co2 over the beer.

Clearn the bottling bucket, rinse, then sanitize.
A bottling bucket has a small (plastic) spigot, a faucet, near the bottom, onto which you fasten a piece of hose and a "bottling wand."

Flushing or "capping" a bucket with CO2 is pretty much futile. Gasses mix rather quickly especially in large, wide, open containers. You may give each bottle a short puff of CO2 right before filling it.
You'll need to use a bottling "wand" (a narrow plastic tube), that fills bottles from the bottom. Most have a small spring loaded valve on the bottom that opens when you push it onto the bottom of the bottle, and closes when you pull the wand out when the bottle is full. You can then give the small headspace left above the beer in the bottle a quick puff of CO2 right before putting and crimping the cap on.

For NEIPAs, hoppy beers in general, kegging IS the best way as you can eliminate most air (O2) contact. You can also drink it a few days after filling, while bottles take 2-3 weeks to carbonate.

 

[Jag75]

It's a cheap at first solution as you can find used or new soda stream . You can get a soda stream for about 45$ . Just for purging bottles . Kegging is cheaper long run but takes more up front money. Tank 130$ , kegs 65 -99$ . Then you need lines and a kegerator or keezer / fridge to keep it cold . I forgot you need a regulator as well. I dont know if the OP has any source of co2 . If he doesnt then that gonna be a chunk of change to get going.

 

[adam88]

Hello All!

Yes, i have soda stream (for human use) and i had a planted tank which is not working now, so i have 2kg co2 bottle (i guess it filled to half now with a regulator) I'll use the co2 if im going out of co2 i will use sodastream.
I'm planning to have a keg in the future. Now i will have to work without keg but with co2

 

[Jag75]

If you have a co2 tank I'd definitely use that. Dont know where your at but here I switch an empty tank for a full one for 12$

 

[adam88]

If you have a co2 tank I'd definitely use that. Dont know where your at but here I switch an empty tank for a full one for 12$

Unfortunately im in Hungary (and not in the capital) so its a bit harder and more expensive to refill, but i will. Its not a problem if this co2 bottle is not for human use but for welding, isnt it?(i guess co2 is just co2)

 

[adam88]

The beer has 1.014 gravity now. I hope the best

 

[Jag75]

The beer has 1.014 gravity now. I hope the best

Awesome let us know . Post a pic if your able

 

[adam88]

I've added the last amount of hops this afternoon. I added co2 to the bucket after i closed it. I'm in fear for oxygenation
The taste was much better than last time! It tastes "strong" (I've calculated a bit over 7% alcohol from the gravity).

 

[adam88]

Hello All,
So, the beer in the bottles now. First taste will be next weekend. Total hops used: 300g (100-100-100 amarillo, citra, galaxy) . OG: 1.070, FG: 1.014.
First i used another bucket before bottling. I've "starsan'ed" it, and used co2 before the beer and after pouring the beer too. Then purged the bottles with co2 (after using starsan), poured the beer into the bottles with a bottling syphone, and add more co2 to the "top" of the beer. I'm still in fear for oxygenation
I've used starsan on everything. I've used co2 too. I hope the best (i will upload pics)

 

[Jag75]

Hello All,
So, the beer in the bottles now. First taste will be next weekend. Total hops used: 300g (100-100-100 amarillo, citra, galaxy) . OG: 1.070, FG: 1.014.
First i used another bucket before bottling. I've "starsan'ed" it, and used co2 before the beer and after pouring the beer too. Then purged the bottles with co2 (after using starsan), poured the beer into the bottles with a bottling syphone, and add more co2 to the "top" of the beer. I'm still in fear for oxygenation
I've used starsan on everything. I've used co2 too. I hope the best (i will upload pics)

Awesome man gonna be a nice beer @ 7.35 abv . My mouth is watering thinking about it . I'm thinking of brewing another one .

 

[IslandLizard]

Hello All,
So, the beer in the bottles now. First taste will be next weekend. Total hops used: 300g (100-100-100 amarillo, citra, galaxy) . OG: 1.070, FG: 1.014.
First i used another bucket before bottling. I've "starsan'ed" it, and used co2 before the beer and after pouring the beer too. Then purged the bottles with co2 (after using starsan), poured the beer into the bottles with a bottling syphone, and add more co2 to the "top" of the beer. I'm still in fear for oxygenation
I've used starsan on everything. I've used co2 too. I hope the best (i will upload pics)

Very good!
You've done all you can to prevent or at least reduce air/O2 contact. Let them carb up and enjoy!

P.S. There's no shame in (frequent) testing to see if they have carbed up yet, or what their current flavor and aroma is as it progresses.

 

[Dgallo]

Very good!
You've done all you can to prevent or at least reduce air/O2 contact. Let them carb up and enjoy!

P.S. There's no shame in (frequent) testing to see if they have carbed up yet, or what their current flavor and aroma is as it progresses.

Absolutely. When I was bottling I would always run a test with at least 5 beers. Once I found the best profile/carb, they would all go in cold storage. It’s the only way to know when they’re on their prime

 

[adam88]

So, taste is good (but its my first meeting with a neipa and i did not want a challange winner beer )
But i do not know what should i think about the color. Maybe its darker than it should because of oxygen? (2nd pic with external lighting)

 

[Jag75]

Well glad it taste good . I think your right about the color . Looks oxidized . this isnt kegged right, its bottled ?

 

[adam88]

Yes, its bottled. Bottling bucket was purged with co2, then every bottle was purged with co2 too and when bottle was filled, i poured some co2 on the top of the beer too.
I have to drink it XD But it tastes good.
Okay, its not for sale and its not a winner beer, but at first "sight" it seems good for me.
If it wasnt oxidized, shall it taste very different?

Ps. My co2 set from planted tank will moved to a keg system, i also ordered a beer tap. If i'm right i just need a keg and some tubes for it.
Then I'll have to convince my gf to have a keg system in the flat :S:S XD

 

[Jag75]

Maybe they're not all like that . As long as it taste good man .