My first lager

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CanuckBrewing

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So i plan on brewing a lager in the near future. I have my recipe down, all the ingredients and everything are chosen, however im just worried about my process. I think it needs some tweaking so any helpful constructive criticism you can provide would be great.

For 10 lbs of pilsner malt, with a resulting 5 gallon batch of beer.
1) Crush malt and add to mash tun (cooler).
2) Add 3.5 gallons of water at 160F. The resulting temperature in the mash tun should reach 150F, stir well and let rest for 60 minutes.
3) Drain into boil kettle, recycling the first few quarts to improve clarity.
4) Heat 4 gallons of water to 170F. Add to mash tun, stir, let rest for 10 minutes.
5) Drain into boil kettle, recycling the first few quarts to improve clarity.
6) Discard the spent grain and take sample of wort for hydrometer reading
7) Bring kettle to rolling boil. Add 1 oz. bittering hops to pot at 60 minutes.
8) Add 1 oz. flavor hops with 15 minutes left in boil, add 1 whirlfloc tablet at this time
9) Add 1 oz. aroma hops with 1 minute left.
10) Place brewpot in ice bath. Stir wort to speed cooling. Continue cooling until brewpot beneath water is warm to touch, about 15-20 minutes.
11) Pour wort into fermenter and add enough water to bring level to 5 gallons (splashing is ok)
12) Pitch two packages of Wyeast Lager Activators into cold and well-aerated wort (48 to 58°F, 9 to 15°C) and stir with sanitized spoon
13) Secure sanitized lid to the ferment, and place sanitized airlock with sanitizing solution into the lid. Shake or rock sealed fermenter for 5 minutes.
14) Keep in primary fermenter @ 48-58F (9-15 celsius) until fermentation is complete (10-14 days)
15) Transfer to carboy and lager in fridge for 3 weeks @ 33-34 degrees F.
16) Clean and sanitize all bottles and lids
17) Boil 8 oz. of water and1/2 cup of corn sugar for 10 minutes, and stir until dissolved. Add to sanitized bottling bucket
18) Siphon beer from carboy to bottling bucket. Avoid excessive splashing during transfer and leave behind sediment. Stir sugar solution to mix it with beer
19) Fill bottles, cap them.
 
Looks OK, except you may want to change to a multi-rest style mash with the pilsner grain. Eg 125F (20 min), 140F (30 min), 158 F (30 min). Palmer describes this here:
How to Brew - By John Palmer - Lager Styles

I recommend a wort chiller, the ice bath will take forever to cool 5 gallons of boiling wort.

Be careful with the priming sugar, you may over sweeten your lager and throw off the flavor profile. I force carbonate all my larger now after making that mistake with my first batch, which was terribly sweet even after months of conditioning.

Have fun! PROST!
 
You really want a wort chiller. SRSLY.
2 liquid yeast packs is underpitching for a 10lb grainbill. I'd buy more yeast or make a starter. Other than that, everything else should work fine.
 
The water amounts look ok. I'd change a couple of things. The first thing I'd do is make sure to do a 90 minute boil. Pilsner malt often creates a lot of DMS that needs to boil off, so boil for 30 minutes and then set the timer for your hour boil and begin adding the hops.

It'll take a LONG time to cool that 5 gallons in an ice bath from boiling to 50 degrees. I don't think you'll be happy with the results. You'll probably have some DMS created while cooling, and you won't get a decent cold break that would give you a clear, "clean" pilsner. You really need a wort chiller, or a better way to chill the wort.

I'd suggest making a starter for your lager yeast- check out mrmalty.com. There is a pitching rate calculator about half way down the page.
 
1) Not sure about your set up, but I like to add water first. I did grain first once, had a stuck sparge, and never did it again.

2) Double check your temperatures. That looks pretty good, but make sure you're accounting for grain temperature. Brewing software like Beersmith can set up all these temps for you.

7) With pilsner malt, you want to boil for 90 minutes total to avoid DMS (dimethyl sulfide) production. You can still do your hop schedule, just let it boil for 30 min. before adding your first hops.

10) As others have said, some sort of wort chiller would be ideal. You want to cool this fast to have a good cold break and avoid DMS (slow cooling also leads to DMS production). But if you must use an ice bath, I'm sure it will turn out alright. Just don't splash too much oxygen into the wort while it's still hot.

Your mash schedule is fine. A single infusion is fine for any of today's malts. Down the road, you can get into multi-step mashes, decoctions, etc. There are some misconceptions out there about these temperatures anyway (i.e., protein rest), so I'd leave that alone for now and just do the single infusion.

Looks good though... looks like you have a pretty good understanding of what you're doing. Good luck.
 
About the 2 liquid yeast packets, id be using Wyeast 2035 Premium American Lager Packets. I read on their webpage that i could either make a starter, or pitch 2 packets and that should be fine. And is it only for pilsner malts where you would increase the boiling time to 90 minutes? Or is it pretty much safe to do that with all malts, ie. vienna, crystal etc.
 
About the 2 liquid yeast packets, id be using Wyeast 2035 Premium American Lager Packets. I read on their webpage that i could either make a starter, or pitch 2 packets and that should be fine. And is it only for pilsner malts where you would increase the boiling time to 90 minutes? Or is it pretty much safe to do that with all malts, ie. vienna, crystal etc.

It's safe to do with all malts, but it's something you need to do with pilsner malt because it contains a higher amount of DMS precursors due to the kilning process.

You'll probably be fine with the 2 packets of Wyeast, but when it comes to lagers, enough never seems like enough for homebrewers. Just pitch it cold to reduce the production of flavor-active compounds.
 
I noticed no one has mentioned a diacetyl rest. Is this not needed for this beer, or am i doing something more than I need too with my lagers?

Ant

It's somewhat optional. I do them for every lager just to clean things up, but others taste for diacetyl during primary and do one if needed. So, yes that's a good point and worth bringing up.

Also, I would consider lagering longer than 3 weeks. 4 is usually a good starting point, but depending on OG, longer is better. I usually go 6 for standard gravity lagers.
 
So in step 14...i take my fermenter, and then move it to 60F. Leave it for two days and then transfer to my carboy and lager?
 
So in step 14...i take my fermenter, and then move it to 60F. Leave it for two days and then transfer to my carboy and lager?

Yes, but you have to catch it at the right time during primary fermentation. Some people say once 2/3 of fermentation is done, Greg Noonan says 6 points short of target FG. I just do it when the krausen is about 1/3 to 1/2 fallen.

Also, remember anytime you're lowering temperatures after the yeast is pitched, you need to lower them slowly (~5°F per day), so you don't shock the yeast out of suspension.
 
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