My conversion plans

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Islandboy85

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I am in the process of building a house, so the apartment brewery will have to get a makeover. I'm converting from a two burner two tier RIMS brewery to electric. It'll probably stay two tier.

I'm probably going to use an Arduino, but I was given a Beaglebone Black a while back that's an option as well to control the system. I know using PIDs is "easier" but I want to make it a little more custom. Currently I have only done the blinks LED project with Arduino, so I have a lot to learn, and I will be seeking some pointers. I trade beer for help with locals [emoji482]

I want to make the system so that if I ever modify from two to single tier or RIMS to HERMS etc it's not going to be a fiasco for the control system. So far this is what I have come up with.

Brewery microcontroller:

Relay/SSR outputs will have a NPN transistor to help with power needs, and anti-fly back diodes to protect the Arduino from the relay's inductive loads.

Brew pump #1.
Brew pump #2.
CIP/ice bucket chill pump.
MLT heat output to SSR.
HLT heat output to SSR.
BK heat output to SSR.
HEX heat (if using a separate HERMS HEX)
Alarm.

Inputs:
Menu/home button.
Scroll menu via a rotary encoder with
push for OK/enter.
Element dry fire protection float switch setup:
HLT if it has an element.
HEX if it has a separate HERMS HEX.
MLT if heating dough in water in it.
BK.

Ability to setup/disable temp sensors and display on an LCD the following temps:
HLT (set/actual).
MLT (actual).
HERMS/RIMS (input/output).
HERMS HEX.
BK (actual/PWM%).
CFC (output).
Use DS18B20 sensors to minimize pins used on the controller, and make wiring earlier.

I'd like to find a way to also log the temperature data so I don't have to plot it by hand anymore. The Beaglebone would probably be easier, I could be wrong.

Menu setup:

Name the batch.

Dough in water heating setup:
Heat vessel selection (HLT, MLT, or
BK). Set with encoder to select.
"Next" option use encoder button.
Temp selection. Set with encoder.
"Next" option use encoder button.

Mash schedule:
"Add" mash rest option. Use encoder
Button.
Each rest is saved as #1, #2,
etc.
Set mash rest time with encoder.
"Save" push rotary encoder button.
"Add" or "next" scroll with the
encoder, and push to select.

Sparge water heating setup:
Heat vessel selection (HLT, MLT, or
BK). Select with encoder.
"Next" option use encoder button.
Set temp with encoder.
"Next" with encoder button

BK hop/addition schedule:
"Add" option.
Each hop/addition is saved as #1,
#2, etc.
Set boil time for the addition.
"Save" push rotary encoder button.
"Add" or "next" scroll with the
encoder, and push to select.
Set the automatic boil temp disengage temp with the rotary encoder. When the temp is reached, the alarm will sound and temp the user will have to use a knob to adjust the PWM of the BK SSRs to control the boil. The controller will only allow the BK temp to reach the set temp to prevent a boil over.

Chilling:
Set alarm temp for when the BK
reaches chilled temp or if directly
transferring to a fermenter if the
chiller output temp goes above
the set temp. This allows the user
To use a CFC or an IC for their
Specific setup.
"BK" or "CFC" using the encoder.
"Next" option use encoder button

Microcontroler prompts user to ensure all control panel switches are in correct position (manual/off/auto).
"OK" using encoder button.
System will ensure that if a float switch monitor has been selected in setup that it is in the appropriate position to prevent dry firing of the heating element. If not, it will give an appropriate error message and alarm.
If everything is as it should be it will display an option to "Start Brewing" select with encoder button.

I'd like to make the brewery compact as can be and with as little modification to the brew pots as able, so I think I will be making a 5500 Watt fact TC heat stick with the temp probe, and float switch mounted to it as one assembly. I'd make it so it simply clamps to the BK to make it easier to remove for cleaning as well.

For the mash side I decided to go with RIMS. I'm going to build the tube from a spare piece of 2" copper pipe and some of Stilldragon's TC flanges to make cleaning it a piece of cake.
 
I've done some more thinking. I think an adjustable float switch would be very useful as well to control a solenoid valve for sparking as well.
I have seen some awesome brewery systems made by some of you guys. I have noticed quite a few of you use a server based system. Now, I may be wrong here, but done you have a slight fear of your brew day getting screwed up if the Internet connection gets weak or dies on you? I know I could easily track my mash temps online, but I have a slight fear of having more issues with the internet than with my mash temps not being tracked.
 

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