My Brewstand with pics (coming along)

[Copbrew133]

Well some good news and some not so bad news. The good first...I finally got around to using the stand (somewhat) to brew my Red Devil English Standard Bitter today. Needed a good session beer to watch Barclays Premier League that wouldn't render me inebriated and useless by mid afternoon. Anyway, I didn't get my keggles as expected for Xmas. I did get some cash toward them and the wife got me a gift certificate to brew one day with the brewer over at Cigar City Brewing in Tampa, as well as lunch with them, some merch and beer....she is awesome. So since I didn't get the kettles today's process involved using my old equipment, typical cooler setup,for a 5 gallon batch. I know opinions vary on the jet burners, but I was very impressed. The heat was pretty even under the pot. I used the BK burner to heat strike and sparge water, then boil. The really good news was that I took temperature readings where the Honeywell valves are and the temps never exceeded 100*F even during the 60 minute boil so that alleviates some worry in regards to heat damage. The max rating for them is 125*F ambient temp if I'm not mistaken. It may be 150*, but I dont have the info in front of me right now. Just thought I'd update this thing a bit and hopefully the beer turns out well, first time using Wyeast 1968.

 

[Dougie63]

where are you located? Maybe we could get together and brew one day. I built a stand from bed frames and got hold of some kegs and coverted them to keggles.

 

[Copbrew133]

Finally have gotten one keggle, with a second on the way. also bought a Blichmann Therminator yesterday from Southern Brewing in Tampa. Now just have to figure out where I want to mount it. Its nice to finally start making some progress again on this thing. Dont you just hate when real life gets in the way of the hobbies, lol.

 

[Grandpasbrewery]

So I'm looking at doing this down the road but I was curious if the control panel controlled just the pumps or managed the gas pressure and burner operation to maintain the temp in the HLT and MLT?

 

[Copbrew133]

The control panel does both. It runs the pumps by manually turning them on to run and then it will control the temps through the use of the Honeywell furnace valves. They basically turn the burner on and off, via a pilot light, as needed to maintain the temp. set in the Love controllers. It is all based on the Brutus 10 system.

 

[Copbrew133]

Alright, actually got a little bit of progress to report. I got the chiller mounted and got most of the components onto what will be the mash tun. I still have a lot of cam locks, false bottom, etc. to order but it is slowly coming along. Of course now that I'm getting closer to stepping up to ten gallon brews the cold side, fermentation, is going to have increase capacity as well. So now I'm looking for a larger fermentation chamber of some sort. Never ends, but sure is fun.

 

[Copbrew133]

Oh, almost forgot, the third keggle is on it's way. Hopefully gets here late this coming week.

 

[jweidman]

Have you got a chance to boil with the 10 jet tip burners yet?

if so how is the boil time? im debating on either getting the 10 or 23 its only a 9 dollar difference, but if the 10 will do just as good as a 23 and save me on propane ill go with that one instead.

 

[HDIr0n]

Can you take a pic of how you did your pilot burner on the 10 tip burners? I am going to try to switch my Banjo burner over to the 10 tip and see how I like it, I am struggling on how to mount the pilot.

 

[Copbrew133]

I haven't done a full boil on a ten gallon batch, in keggle, as of yet. I boiled in my old pot for a five gallon gallon batch a few weeks ago. I didn't time how long it took to bring the 7 1/2 gallons from mashout temps to a boil, but it wasn't long. One of the reasons I went with the 10 tip burners was because most people I saw using the larger ones were having to plug some of the tips anyway. I guess if you were doing even larger brews, 20 or 30 gallons, the larger burner makes sense. Just not for me on a ten gallon system. If I ever step up to larger batches I'll upgrade the fuel and burner system, but not now. Once i get the keggles up and running and do a wet test Ill time it and post. Still waiting on the third keggle, plus having to work a long week this week, plus fighting off a cold so it may be a couple weeks.

As far as how the pilots are mounted, they're actually not hard mounted to the burner. The pilot gas tubing is pretty stout and the pilot burner itself is wedged in amongst the bends of the burner. I'll take some pics over the next couple of days and post them. I have rolled the stand over a two inch drop and the pilot tubing showed no sign of movement from it's position. They're pretty stoutly wedged in there, although I have considered somehow attaching them to the outer burner ring, just haven't done it yet.

 

[eryk4381]

Have you got a chance to boil with the 10 jet tip burners yet?

if so how is the boil time? im debating on either getting the 10 or 23 its only a 9 dollar difference, but if the 10 will do just as good as a 23 and save me on propane ill go with that one instead.

This would be nice to know. I am planning on either the 10, 23 or 32 depending on the time it takes to boil.

 

[Copbrew133]

What size batches are you doing?

 

[TrickyDick]

Can you take a pic of how you did your pilot burner on the 10 tip burners? I am going to try to switch my Banjo burner over to the 10 tip and see how I like it, I am struggling on how to mount the pilot.

The ten tips from tejas come with a hole drilled and tapped in the nubbin. This is one way to mount the pilots.

 

[Copbrew133]

Here's a pic of the way the pilot assembly is layed out. My burners were from Bayou Classic Depot. I wouldn't suggest dealing with them. The Tejas mentioned before our a little bit more $$$, but that company is known for better customer service than what I got from BCD. Plus like Tricky Dick said they have a hole already in them where you could mount the pilot assembly...these do not. For mine I haven't had any issue with movement, however before I start rigorously brewing on the system I will be finding a way to affix them to the burner ring. Hope that helps.

 

[TrickyDick]

I have the same pilot lights as in your pictures.

I tried to look, but don't have any photos to share, but I will describe how I mounted them.

On my original burners, not from tejas, the nubbins were not drilled or tapped, but were the same style 10 mini jets cast ring burners like pictured.
I used a vise and bent the aluminum bracket on the pilot assembly, into which the thermocouple and burner are mounted, from a 90° to a 180° so that it was basically just a flat piece of aluminum. I then used a self tapping screw and drilled/mounted to the nubbin. By flattening out the bracket (thankfully it didn't break), the pilot was in a good spot for igniting the main burner. I forget if they mounted on the top or bottom (I think bottom) side of the nubbin. With my newer burners (from tejas) I used bolt/nut and washers to do the same thing.

TD

 

[jweidman]

quick question on your wiring, for the STC controller to the Burner Valve, how did you wire it. i saw that Lonnie wired his just 2 power cables to it, did you do the same or did you do 2 power and one negative.

Also did you use SSR's for the wiring to the burners?

 

[jweidman]

where did you get you enclosure at and how much did it cost ??

 

[Copbrew133]

The controllers I used are Love TS2 controllers from Dwyer. I think the STC are different. Lonnie used Loves on his as well if I am not mistaken. I wired them exactly as he did, except that because the Honeywell valves run of 24VAC I had to drop the voltage from the 110VAC Love through a transformer. I actually have one transformer per controller and i did not use any SSR's. I'd have to look at the wiring diagram in my Brutus instructions later, but if you have them the wiring is the same, minus the transformer. I dont know about the STC's as I have not used them. Ive cycled the gas valves on and off probably 50 times each with no problems.

The enclosure was found on Ebay for around $40. It's a grey plastic NEMA enclosure that I painted with the left over stand paint. There are usually a ton on Ebay, just a matter of catching what you want at the right price. The face on it was done by Front Panel Express for about a hundred bucks. Just a matter of getting an enclosure, taking the measurements, and using their free online CAD like designer. Hope that helps.

 

[Copbrew133]

Got the dip tubes and false bottom for the MLT and BK installed. I am going to have to trim a little off the end of the dip tube for the HLT as it is too close to the bottom on the HLT. I think it's so close to the bottom that it will actually restrict flow. I cannot wait to get this thing done and get some testing and brewing going on around here. I'm still doing doing 5 gallon batches using the BK burner on the stand and my old cooler setup up, but I'm ready to get this thing fired up on a regular basis. Heres some pics:

 

[Copbrew133]

The current overall view as it sits in the "junk room".

 

[Clawson]

Looks really good! Trying to figure out the wiring on mine! I'm a dummy when it comes to electrical.

Matt

 

[Copbrew133]

Don't feel alone. If I can help PM me and let me know.

 

[TrickyDick]

Looks really good! Trying to figure out the wiring on mine! I'm a dummy when it comes to electrical.

Matt

What does your enclosure look like? Is there a mounting plate inside of it? Mine had a removable mounting plate (total pita to remove however) that I drilled, mounted the hardware (transformer, spark ignition modules, and DIN rails). If you do not have a mounting plate, you can consider mounting directly to the enclosure itself or fab up a plate that will fit, with stand offs.

I used several DIN rails, one for ground, and one for black and one for white from the 120VAC. I connected the AC wires to each rail and labelled them. I used spade terminals and crimp tools for all the connections to the rails. I used color coded wiring where possible. Took quite a bit of time as I recall, but I brought the entire stand inside to do it up in comfort. Ran all the wires in weatherproof flexible conduit (but not heat proof), where necessary, shrink wraps, and watertight fittings for wiring entering the enclosure. My wires all come out the top on the enclosure through 1 of 4 holes. There are 7 switches I used: main power, 2 pumps, 2 valves, and 2 PID controllers. I used waterproof covers on the switches. I wired a waterproof light to the main power switch. I used silicone sealant on the PID display/control. Ensure adequate slack wire in the connections going to/from the PIDs/temp controllers so when you open the enclosure the wires have plenty of free play.

Do not recall if I used separate rails for the 24VAC for my valves, or just wired with a solder less terminal or wire nut.

I used some lead flashing to shield the spark igniters so as to prevent any RFI/EMI between these and the PIDs.

It shouldn't be too hard if you take your time.

TD

 

[Copbrew133]

This was the first time I ever used the DIN rail, and I really like it, just much cleaner and seems like better, sturdier connections than the radio shack type block rail thing. TD, if you've got some good photos of your control panel and wiring can you post them on here or link to a build thread if you did one. In building mine I found the more photos of wiring and connections the better.

 

[Copbrew133]

Got some more fittings in and installed.....getting closer. I also got the two remaining sight glasses on, but not hard plumbed because I frankly just don't fill like drilling hole for the upright support/ eye hooks today. Still have to get some fittings for a BK return/whirlpool and a return for the HLT as well as make a decision on whether I want to do an inline oxygen stone or not coming out of the chiller. I'm leaning toward no at this point as I am still a bit leery of the sanitation factor and that I already have a oxygenation wand setup from Williams Brewing that I like and it's easy to clean. We'll see.

 

[Copbrew133]

I got some of the few remaining fittings in and everything is coming together toward the completion of this year long plus project. Today I got the inline oxygenation/wort out/ temp monitor done coming out of the chiller. the whole assembly removes via camlock from the chiller for ease of cleaning. On the end is a small comp fitting that I picked up from Brew Hardware. My Thermapen probe goes tightly into the end and should provide nearly immediate temp readings to adjust chilling flows going out to the fermenter. I still have to silver solder the oxygen wand/ stone into the hole I drilled into the plug, but other than that this item is checked off the list. I punched a couple holes in the keggles and installed the BK return/ whirlpool arm that Bobby at Brewhardware.com did a longer custom length for me so that the return is near the bottom of the BK. Good dude, didn't even charge me extra! (of course I've probably paid for his kid's first semester in college, lol). I did the same thing on the HLT, but with the shorter whirlpool return that Bobby sells. I will be using ice in the HLT for chilling through the Therminator so the whirlpool action should help to keep from having hot and cold spots in the ice water. I bought a Greenlee 1/2" conduit punch from Lowes and let me tell you that is the way to go for putting clean holes, in about a quarter of the time or effort, into kettles for weldless bulkheads. After using step bits, I would highly recommend the punch, it kicks butt! I also got my water filter plumbed and mounted to the stand. It is removable so I can properly stow the filter away and let it dry between brew days. I got a valve going to a cheap hose disconnect, probably replace it later, to connect to a 25' RV drinking hose going to the spigot. The exit to the filter has just a 1/2" male thread to 1/2" barb. I will most likely replace this later with a camlock, but it'll work for now.

I wanted to praise two of the vendors I used for the parts for this project that have offered great service, good prices, and great selection of items for the brewers out there. Of course Bobby @ brewhardware.com and Adventures in Homebrewing. These are the type of quality people I enjoy doing business with and if anyone reading this needs brewing hardware I can't recommend them enough. On to some more pictures!!!

 

[Copbrew133]

Closer pic of the water filter setup as it is now.

 

[Copbrew133]

Quick update. Silver soldered the oxygen stone into the SS plug on the inline oxygenation setup. I put in a small 3/16" barbed check valve so liquid cant get up into my oxygen regulator. I went this route because I already had the Williams Brewing O2 wand system. My soldering job leaves a lot aesthetically to be desired I guess, but I pressurized it and it's waterproof. Cool thing is I can unscrew the stone and plug, disconnect the tube and boil it to sanitize.

 

[RocketBrewer]

Looks Great!

 

[Copbrew133]

Thanks, it has been way more work than I had originally thought, but I am happy with it so far.