• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

American Amber Ale Much Better Amber Ale

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hey guys, sorry for the delayed response. I think the citrus came from the Cascade addition at flame out.

I am not a huge fan of too much citrus either, and I will be tweaking the recipe for next time. Possibly moving the last hop addition back to 5 minute, like the original recipe called for. Or choose a different hop for the flame out addition.

This hobby is such a shaky science that any one thing can change the final product real quick, as I'm learning after each brew

Cheers

Oh well I hope citrusy is tasty as I made the stuff last night . The wort tasted very good and hoppy . Did not notice the citrus then but who knows after fermentation . I will taste again then and decide how long I want it to sit in the bottles . I have found that some really bad tasting beer gets much better after a few months in the bottle . I hope that works for my muntons wheat that I added in a lot of very strong tasting honey and the beer just came out with a bad flavor which is actually from the honey I think .
 
Markus

Victory would give a good biscuit flavor, but I think that amber and victory are similar in that they both give a biscuit dimension to your beer.

Anyone, please correct me if that's not accurate.

Das

We shall find out as I used 6 ounces of victory . wort was not real sweet as with my brown ales I normally make which taste like sugar . The OG was 1.063 and had a nice flavor . My pre boil hop addition sat in the wort for about 3 hours because the filter was clogged in my tun and ran very slowly so that may have added to big hop flavor and bitter.
 
We are on the better better amber . Sud-Paw said his came out citrusy . The hops used are all hops that have this characteristic so I am interested in which addition is actually more responsible for citrus taste in this brew .
If I am right , not that I know much about this , it would not be the ones boiled for long times as that would make more bitter to cover up the citrus . So I guess it would be the .5 oz cascade for 10 minutes or the flame out cascade .

One more question . How much mash water and sparge water do I use for this ?

Here is the original and modified recipe :

much better amber ale

7.5 lbs 2-Row Brewers Malt
1.5 lbs Munich
1.5 lbs Crystal 60L
4-6 oz Amber Malt --- (optional if you want to add a bisquit flavor and darker color)

( .5 oz fuggles pre boil addition ) added recipe for better better amber )

1.0 oz Centennial (60 min)
0.5 oz Cascade (10 min)

0.5 oz Cascade (5 min) ---( flame out for better better )

Wyeast 1056 American Ale yeast or US-05 dry yeast

Mash at 154 for 60 minutes.

I mash in with 3.5 gallons of water at 165 F for an hour. I then do 2 sparges of 2 gallons each at 168 F.
 
So i did this yesterday. I substituted an oz of magnum for the 60 minute and an ounce of amarillo for the aroma. Can't wait!
 
So i did this yesterday. I substituted an oz of magnum for the 60 minute and an ounce of amarillo for the aroma. Can't wait!

Just great . where were you with this grand idea the other day before I brewed mine ?
Just my luck .. A day early and few hops short.

the magnum may be the trick here . It seems that it is very good for bittering . the amarillo is interesting with the spicy orange bouquet character

Judging by the taste of my wort I would say that I am going to have a very tasty beer . How ever I may try your version next time .
 
Hello all,

First off congratulations Mick!

Secondly I don't know if this is a stupid question, but what %AA where your hops in the original recipe posted for the Much Better Amber? Do you find that it makes much of a difference? Because I got some Cascade in the freezer that's 9.1% and I know this won't make much of a difference due to the timing of the additions, but what about the Centennial hops? I find that the hops supplied at my LHBS tend to be on the higher of the %AA.

I can't wait to try this recipe!
 
Hello all,

First off congratulations Mick!

Secondly I don't know if this is a stupid question, but what %AA where your hops in the original recipe posted for the Much Better Amber? Do you find that it makes much of a difference? Because I got some Cascade in the freezer that's 9.1% and I know this won't make much of a difference due to the timing of the additions, but what about the Centennial hops? I find that the hops supplied at my LHBS tend to be on the higher of the %AA.

I can't wait to try this recipe!

There are no stupid questions when it comes to brewing our own beer (unless you count the typical questions I get from my neighbors, Is it safe to drink? Can you make Budweisser or maybe Coors light?)

I use Centennial at 9.2% and Cascade at 5.5% this gives about 40 IBUs. Your 9.1 cascade will give 44 IBUs. This will also put it just outside the recommended IBU range for American ambers, which is ok. You could use the 9.1 casade and just add the first addition at 6-7 min and the second at 1-3 minutes.

Hope this answers your question.

I also do a version that is all cascade for lower IBUs for less hoppy drinkers.
 
Hey thanks for getting right back to me, I'm actually about 10minutes away from the boil. :rockin:

I ended up with some Centennial @ 10.5%AA and lucky for me I have a digital scale. So I'll just use 0.876 oz Centennial and 0.6oz Cascade, divided in to portions of course.

Thanks again
 
Mickaweapon ;
When you get that Bud and Coors Light recipe figured out please send it to me so I can deposit it in the proper receptacle out by my curb.

thank you
 
Mickaweapon ;
When you get that Bud and Coors Light recipe figured out please send it to me so I can deposit it in the proper receptacle out by my curb.

thank you

My current recipe for Bud Light is to invite a dozen friends over for home brew beer and tacos. Collect their urine in sanitized bottles and add water to dilute to proper concentration. Cap these these and let them sit in the sun for several days.
 
I brewed the recipe and fermented out in 8 days?! No kreusen. I mean like none. I started a little low for OG, but dropped 1.044 --> 1.011. So I'm leaving in the carboy for another 2 weeks to let it clear. Anyone else have this experience?
 
I brewed the recipe and fermented out in 8 days?! No kreusen. I mean like none. I started a little low for OG, but dropped 1.044 --> 1.011. So I'm leaving in the carboy for another 2 weeks to let it clear. Anyone else have this experience?

What yeast did you use for this batch? What temperature did you ferment at?
 
No starter, just the slap pack (100B cells). This is the first time, even with a slap packs, that it hasn't taken off.
 
No starter, just the slap pack (100B cells). This is the first time, even with a slap packs, that it hasn't taken off.

Do not know if this applies to you but I use plastic buckets and after the first time or two the lid no longer seals good and it appears as if fermentation is not going on . No bubbles in air lock . I use " good " duct tape like scotch and definitely not Ace hardware brand because if you use cheap off brand tape it will not have enough glue to seal and wrap it around the lid real good to seal off any leaks .
Always put enough wort after adding yeast of course in a bottle and put a paper towel over it and twist tie it on . Use this for measuring gravity so you know for sure if it is fermenting .
 
I brewed the recipe and fermented out in 8 days?! No kreusen. I mean like none. I started a little low for OG, but dropped 1.044 --> 1.011. So I'm leaving in the carboy for another 2 weeks to let it clear. Anyone else have this experience?

Grated I've never used anything but dry yeast, but I've had a similar experience when fermenting a little low temperature wise. Increased the temp by a few degrees and it picked right up again.

I'm currently on day seven post-brewday. My fermentation went crazy on day three with a krausen being pushed out of the air lock (S-05 dry yeast at about 70 degrees). Now it's pretty flat looking again. I'm going to be talking some hydrometer reading today and tomorrow before moving it to a secondary.
 
since I ferment in a bucket I can not see the krausen unless of course fermentation gores crazy and it blows out the air lock , what a pain in the ass. I then use my siphon tube with the air lock on the end or if it is too much I just put the tube into some water or beer . I do usually have some beer in a bottle to use for checking FG and it does show a bit of krausen .

My Much better amber is in the bottles and in another couple weeks I am hoping for something drinkable . how ever in my experience i like beers only after a couple months in the bottle .
 
I'm really pushing this batch along. Two weeks in the primary, cold crashed with gelatin for 24 hours. Keg tonight. Serve next Saturday. It will likely be a little raw I'm guessing. Still - it's beer.
 
I'm really pushing this batch along. Two weeks in the primary, cold crashed with gelatin for 24 hours. Keg tonight. Serve next Saturday. It will likely be a little raw I'm guessing. Still - it's beer.

Let me know how it turns out. I usually go at least 3 weeks in the primary prior to kegging or bottling. Perhaps 2 weeks will be enough time.
 
The hydrometer taster is great. I upped the IBUs a little. My magnum stock is about a year old show i upped it 25%. It is pretty bitter. Tasty but not what my intended goal. That's the beauty of this hobby. I can brew it again, tweak it, and come up with something different. It's all beer! Thanks for the recipe!
 
I got as question about that 3 week fermentation . Does this not make the yeast die off ? Does it not run out of oxygen ?
Of course I guess if you are kegging this would not be a problem but what about us bottle carbers.
 
I got as question about that 3 week fermentation . Does this not make the yeast die off ? Does it not run out of oxygen ?
Of course I guess if you are kegging this would not be a problem but what about us bottle carbers.

I bottled beer for my first 3 years of brewing prior to kegging. I still bottle 50% of my beer that I give away and all of my fermentations go for a minimum of 3 weeks and most go for 4 weeks in order to give the yeast time to clean up after themselves. I picked this tip up from Revy and noticed that the quality of my brewing improved with 3-4 weeks of primary fermentation. I even will split a 6 gallon batch that has been in the primary 4 weeks into separate 3 gallons to keg and 3 gallons to bottle and both come out just fine.

After 3-4 weeks the yeast may go dormant for a bit of time if they are out of food but when you bottle adding the corn sugar provides the right amount of food to the right amount of yeast for carbonation. When I started brewing I subscribed the 2,2,2 method (2 weeks primary, 2 weeks secondary, 2 bottle condition.) Now I usually do 4 weeks primary, skip the secondary and 3 weeks bottle condition.
 
I probably follow a similar schedule but do 3-4 weeks in primary then keg for 1-2 depending on my thirst. Oxygen isn't a big concern for the fermentation/carbonation steps. oxygen is important in the initial growth phase. Once you start fermenting sugar to alcohol and CO2, oxygen isn't part of the equation. In fact any oxygen around causes off flavors. A fresh source of sugar is important (priming sugar).
 
thanks mickaweapon I will give that a try next time .
thanks jsmcclure . that oxygen info is helpful as I thought it needed it all through the fermentation process . I think my beers would taste better if left longer in bucket . I usually leave them in bottles for a month or more after 3 weeks carbonation time anyway before I drink them . So it will not be any longer to drink time and my beer will settle out more and have less crap in the bottom of the bottle I recon.
 
I got a question about 3 week fermentation and dry hopping .
What do you guys think about leaving a muntons Canadian in for 3 weeks that i am going to dry hop . should I still dry hop after 5 - 7 days as is usual ?
Can I put it in secondary and achieve the same results as leaving in primary ? Reason being is I am going to remove 1 gallon of it to dry hop with a different hop than the other 5 gallons so I do not want to leave it in primary with all the ( 2 1/2 gallons ) of head space .
 
I got a question about 3 week fermentation and dry hopping .
What do you guys think about leaving a muntons Canadian in for 3 weeks that i am going to dry hop . should I still dry hop after 5 - 7 days as is usual ?
Can I put it in secondary and achieve the same results as leaving in primary ? Reason being is I am going to remove 1 gallon of it to dry hop with a different hop than the other 5 gallons so I do not want to leave it in primary with all the ( 2 1/2 gallons ) of head space .

How large is your carboy that you plan on using to secondary? Do you have any access to CO2 that would could push into the top of your carboy.
 
Back
Top