Mr Beer - Read all about it and ask questions

[Kirkwooder]

Hey Slym, have you already bought the Mr. Beer IPA kit? If not, try this recipe instead, it makes a killer IPA.

2 gallon batch

5 oz caramel 40 steeped while heating water to 170*, then remove.

3.3 # golden malt lme

.4 oz centennial @ 60 min.
.4 oz centennial @ 20 min
.8 oz centennial @ 5 min
.4 oz centennial dry hop

Ferment with us-05

 

[douglasbarbin]

A question about my upcoming IPA - it is using the Diablo HME from MrB, and if it is anything like the last MrB kit I used, the beer is a little thin with not much in the way of head-retention. I plan on using 4 oz. of Carapils (or Carafoam) for this, but I also want to add a little red colour, as I am also adding some DME & hops, and will call it "A Helluva IPA." Someone on another site told me to use CaraRed, but I have read where it doesn't really add much red to the colour, plus it is a caramel malt and will add sweetness that isn't right for an IPA. Then someone else mentioned elsewhere about using a very small amount of black malt and that will add a red colour, but now I am worried about the 'roasty-toasty' flavour that can put off. My LHBS doesn't carry RedX, so I can't use that.

Any ideas? Will just a small amount of black malts be OK? Or should I look for another way to get the colour I am looking for? If so, any suggestions would be appreciated.

TIA!

You can use a very small amount of dark malt or roasted barley for color without any of the roastiness coming through. I think Carafa II probably gives you the most color for the least amount of roastiness. Put maybe 1% (or less) into your recipe and see how that adjusts color.

 

[PC509]

Last batch (Pilsner) from Mr. Beer before moving up to the 5 gallon batch finally complete. Clear, fully carbonated, tastes ok. A little sweet. I did use the dextrose (.22 cup boiled with 2 cups water, then added to bottling bucket) rather than the tabs I used in previous batches (slowly buying materials for larger batches). I'm wondering if I didn't keep it warm enough or not enough yeast survived to consume all the dextrose in the bottle during conditioning, maybe? I have no idea. Other than that, the taste is fine but a little weak. Next weekend, I'm buying a recipe kit for a 5 gallon batch and starting on that! Whoo hoo!

 

[slym2none]

Hey Slym, have you already bought the Mr. Beer IPA kit? If not, try this recipe instead, it makes a killer IPA.

2 gallon batch

5 oz caramel 40 steeped while heating water to 170*, then remove.

3.3 # golden malt lme

.4 oz centennial @ 60 min.
.4 oz centennial @ 20 min
.8 oz centennial @ 5 min
.4 oz centennial dry hop

Ferment with us-05

Yeah, we've already got the HME - but I will put this recipe away for future use!

 

[slym2none]

You can use a very small amount of dark malt or roasted barley for color without any of the roastiness coming through. I think Carafa II probably gives you the most color for the least amount of roastiness. Put maybe 1% (or less) into your recipe and see how that adjusts color.

Thank you!

 

[vondetour]

So I read that some of you bought Mr. beer used, if I bought a used kit can I use any beer ingredients or do i have to buy the Mr. beer ingredients. I was thinking of going my local brew store and buying the grains in bulk.

 

[slym2none]

You can use any recipe and scale it down. Take a 5-gallon recipe, multiply the ingredients by .4, and there you go. Extract, partial-grain, all-grain, it's all available. The only thing you can't do in a Mr Beer "Little Brown Keg" (LBK) that larger-batch brewers do is make 5 gallons of beer.

 

[vondetour]

slym2none thanks for the help, was reading this thread and found a used Mr. beer on craigslist, no idea how old the ingredients are. I have Addison Homebrew Provisions down the road and they have every thing for brewing plus brewing demonstrations on Saturdays so I'm good to go.

 

[douglasbarbin]

slym2none thanks for the help, was reading this thread and found a used Mr. beer on craigslist, no idea how old the ingredients are. I have Addison Homebrew Provisions down the road and they have every thing for brewing plus brewing demonstrations on Saturdays so I'm good to go.

I probably wouldn't trust the ingredients that come with the kit because they aren't always fresh in the first place. Stop by your local store and tell them that you need to put together a recipe for a Mr. Beer and those guys should be able to help you out.

 

[ericbw]

A question about my upcoming IPA - it is using the Diablo HME from MrB, and if it is anything like the last MrB kit I used, the beer is a little thin with not much in the way of head-retention. I plan on using 4 oz. of Carapils (or Carafoam) for this, but I also want to add a little red colour, as I am also adding some DME & hops, and will call it "A Helluva IPA." Someone on another site told me to use CaraRed, but I have read where it doesn't really add much red to the colour, plus it is a caramel malt and will add sweetness that isn't right for an IPA. Then someone else mentioned elsewhere about using a very small amount of black malt and that will add a red colour, but now I am worried about the 'roasty-toasty' flavour that can put off. My LHBS doesn't carry RedX, so I can't use that.

Any ideas? Will just a small amount of black malts be OK? Or should I look for another way to get the colour I am looking for? If so, any suggestions would be appreciated.

TIA!

Like someone said, a tiny bit of black or roasted barley will give you red without affecting the flavor. On the other hand, while roast flavor is out of place in an IPA, crystal malts and their sweetness are not totally out of place. It would be offset by the bitter and hoppiness of an IPA.

Just a thought.

 

[Oginme]

Like someone said, a tiny bit of black or roasted barley will give you red without affecting the flavor. On the other hand, while roast flavor is out of place in an IPA, crystal malts and their sweetness are not totally out of place. It would be offset by the bitter and hoppiness of an IPA.

Just a thought.

First, if you are not brewing for competition, don't worry about any potential roast flavors. On the other hand, too much caramel/crystal malt sweetness can be hard to overcome with the hop bitterness. The usually, less than 1% roasted barley needed to get some nice red hues into a pale or light amber beer should not make much of a flavor impact. If you are concerned, you can also try the debittered roasted malts, which will give much less of the acerbic roasted flavors.

 

[slym2none]

Thanks for all the replies, guys!

So, would 2 oz of CaraRed give me enough colour, and not be too sweet for a 2.5 gallon brew? 1 oz of black malts? Less???

 

[douglasbarbin]

First, if you are not brewing for competition, don't worry about any potential roast flavors. On the other hand, too much caramel/crystal malt sweetness can be hard to overcome with the hop bitterness. The usually, less than 1% roasted barley needed to get some nice red hues into a pale or light amber beer should not make much of a flavor impact. If you are concerned, you can also try the debittered roasted malts, which will give much less of the acerbic roasted flavors.

To reiterate, I would go with Roasted Barley or one of the Carafa's for color adjustment. They will give you more color without affecting flavor when compared to using any of the crystal malts.

For what it's worth, I really don't like crystal malts in my IPAs and typically use it at a rate of about 2%. I never use more than 5%. If you look at most of the "world-class" IPA recipes (both Plinys, Heady Topper, etc.) I think you will find that most of them use a very low percentage of crystal as well.

 

[douglasbarbin]

Thanks for all the replies, guys!

So, would 2 oz of CaraRed give me enough colour, and not be too sweet for a 2.5 gallon brew? 1 oz of black malts? Less???

Definitely use less than 1 oz if you are using black patent malt, roasted barley, Carafa II, etc. I would say make it 1% or less of your total grist. Use a software like BeerSmith and plug it in to your recipe to get a general idea of how much you need to get the color you want.

I wouldn't bother with the CaraRed at all. To give you a perspective, CaraRed's color is about 20 degrees Lovibond. Black Patent Malt, Roasted Barley, and Carafa I/II/III are all in the range of 300-560 degrees Lovibond. So they will give you a lot more color for the same amount of grain when compared to something like CaraRed, Crystal 20, Crystal 60, etc.

 

[slym2none]

Thank you, @douglasbarbin !

 

[PC509]

Question on old Mr. Beer extracts.... I keep finding some old (Expires 2012/2013) Mr. Beer kits for $6 or so. They come with the IPA and booster. While I'm assuming the yeast is not any good, would the extract yield any decent results? Or would the taste be too funky? I'm moving past the Mr. Beer stuff, but seeing these available (plus, the bottles and the rest of the kit are good) has me interested in keeping a 2 gallon batch going.

 

[slym2none]

Personally, I would not use. I might use one if it was only a year or so out of date, expecting a darker colour, but 3-4 years out of date? No thank you. However, $6 is a steal for the LBK, bottles, and even the no-rinse cleanser.

 

[PC509]

Cool. I might pick them up as I see them (I have 3 kits now, with 1 old Pale Ale can). The bottles were worth it for me. I only use 2 of the LBK, with the other one I used the spigot for a DIY bottling bucket.

Thanks!

 

[ericbw]

The LBK is $15 usually, so that's a deal.

 

[slym2none]

I think I posted this elsewhere on the site, but got no responses, so I'm going to re-post it here:

So, I got curious and took a little sample of my Novacaine (21 days into fermentation). First impression is that I think I am going to need to rack this to a secondary, and I only hope that will help - the sample was very cloudy, and I am sure that's because I didn't strain the mixture before fermenting, and there was a LOT of stuff that should have been strained out. I honestly think the trub is about level with my spigot. The other impression I got is that while it does taste like beer, and definitely has some alcohol, it is still kind of sweet. This very well might not be done fermenting yet, 21 days after brewing & pitching the yeast. Estimated FG is 1.028 (OG was est. at 1.111), but IDK if that is why it tastes as sweet as it does.

Any advice/suggestions? (Besides straining my wort next time? ) Should I cold-crash it before moving to my 2nd LBK?

 

[BrewinBromanite]

I think I posted this elsewhere on the site, but got no responses, so I'm going to re-post it here:

So, I got curious and took a little sample of my Novacaine (21 days into fermentation). First impression is that I think I am going to need to rack this to a secondary, and I only hope that will help - the sample was very cloudy, and I am sure that's because I didn't strain the mixture before fermenting, and there was a LOT of stuff that should have been strained out. I honestly think the trub is about level with my spigot. The other impression I got is that while it does taste like beer, and definitely has some alcohol, it is still kind of sweet. This very well might not be done fermenting yet, 21 days after brewing & pitching the yeast. Estimated FG is 1.028 (OG was est. at 1.111), but IDK if that is why it tastes as sweet as it does.

Any advice/suggestions? (Besides straining my wort next time? ) Should I cold-crash it before moving to my 2nd LBK?

Hard to say for certain, but I might suggest placing in a little warmer location along with some VERY LIGHT agitation or rocking. Don't aerate, just gently rock once or twice. This won't help the cloudiness initially, but there's a chance it could wake up some yeast in case they went to sleep early. Give it another week after doing this and take another reading to see if it dropped. If it doesn't, it's likely as low as it's going to go. At that point, cold crash and rack to a bottling bucket trying to keep as much trub in the fermentor. After carbing, the longer in the fridge will help the yeast in the bottle settle down firmly. I rarely bother with straining. A good cold crash (or do this in the bottle in the fridge after carbing) typically make a very clear beer. Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[slym2none]

Well, I added an extra pound of DME, and two ounces of hops. I tried my best when pouring from my brew pot to the LBK to keep all the stuff I saw in there out, but a lot got in. I even held back the last quart in a sanitized containerand pretty much cold-crashed it for a couple days before pouring it into the LBK, just to keep the inch of muck that accumulated in the container out of my LBK.

I just looked, and the tilting actually did it's job, the trub stops short of the spigot and is a good inch-thick at the back of the LBK. I did give it a little agitation, just from getting it out of the cooler & putting it back in.

I am going to leave it alone, however - I changed my mind, and won't put it into my other LBK as a secondary. Too much chance of oxidation, what with the "blanket" of CO² being gone if I do that. I am just going to trust it will be done fermenting by Wednesday night (26 days, 2.4 gallons, one whole packet of US-05) and then cold-crash it before bottling.

Again, I know - I really need a hydrometer.

 

[douglasbarbin]

I think I posted this elsewhere on the site, but got no responses, so I'm going to re-post it here:

So, I got curious and took a little sample of my Novacaine (21 days into fermentation). First impression is that I think I am going to need to rack this to a secondary, and I only hope that will help - the sample was very cloudy, and I am sure that's because I didn't strain the mixture before fermenting, and there was a LOT of stuff that should have been strained out. I honestly think the trub is about level with my spigot. The other impression I got is that while it does taste like beer, and definitely has some alcohol, it is still kind of sweet. This very well might not be done fermenting yet, 21 days after brewing & pitching the yeast. Estimated FG is 1.028 (OG was est. at 1.111), but IDK if that is why it tastes as sweet as it does.

Any advice/suggestions? (Besides straining my wort next time? ) Should I cold-crash it before moving to my 2nd LBK?

Did you take a gravity reading? Because 1.028 is about as low as I'd expect it to attenuate for a 1.111 extract brew. In fact, I wouldn't be surprised if it didn't even get that low.

 

[slym2none]

No hydrometer... I'm both poor & cheap.

 

[Kirkwooder]

No hydrometer... I'm both poor & cheap.

Let it ride a while longer. An extra week or two won't hurt it any and may give it some time to drop clear. A 1.110 beer is a big beer and may need another week or more.

 

[bpgreen]

Question on old Mr. Beer extracts.... I keep finding some old (Expires 2012/2013) Mr. Beer kits for $6 or so. They come with the IPA and booster. While I'm assuming the yeast is not any good, would the extract yield any decent results? Or would the taste be too funky? I'm moving past the Mr. Beer stuff, but seeing these available (plus, the bottles and the rest of the kit are good) has me interested in keeping a 2 gallon batch going.

You can use them. They'll likely to be darker than intended, and there may be flavor changes, but if the cans aren't bulging or leaking, you can use them. LME doesn't spoil per se, since there isn't enough water for bacteria to grow. But it does change color and flavor.

 

[brewski09]

What yeast did you use? That could be an issue. You are looking at about an 11% abv beer based on your estimated numbers so not all yeasts can handle that.

Also, plenty of experiments have been done on the effects of racking the trub from boil kettle to fermenter. Unless you are doing a super hoppy IPA it doesn't seem to matter. It only adds a few days to your aging before bottling for clearing purposes.

 

[slym2none]

What yeast did you use? That could be an issue. You are looking at about an 11% abv beer based on your estimated numbers so not all yeasts can handle that.

Also, plenty of experiments have been done on the effects of racking the trub from boil kettle to fermenter. Unless you are doing a super hoppy IPA it doesn't seem to matter. It only adds a few days to your aging before bottling for clearing purposes.

Was this question directed at me, or the last poster who asked a question?

 

[rich5665]

I got my first Mr. Beer kit about 3 weeks ago. My first brew was the Oktoberfest Lager that I just bottle this weekend. I picked up a second LBK less than a week later and brewed up a Czech Pilsner that will get bottled this coming weekend. I then went out and picked up 2 - 5 gallon food grade buckets found a couple of air tight screw down lids at the local Home Depot. I modified both buckets, One is my Primary Fermenter the other a bottling bucket. I have a partial mash Irish Red Ale that my LHBS worked up for me (more ore less 4 gallons of beer). I picked up a 3rd LBK for $5 that I'll use for the MR Beer 2015 Spring Helles Bock. I'm thinking I'll do another partial mash once I have two free LBK's.

 

[Kirkwooder]

I got my first Mr. Beer kit about 3 weeks ago. My first brew was the Oktoberfest Lager that I just bottle this weekend. I picked up a second LBK less than a week later and brewed up a Czech Pilsner that will get bottled this coming weekend. I then went out and picked up 2 - 5 gallon food grade buckets found a couple of air tight screw down lids at the local Home Depot. I modified both buckets, One is my Primary Fermenter the other a bottling bucket. I have a partial mash Irish Red Ale that my LHBS worked up for me (more ore less 4 gallons of beer). I picked up a 3rd LBK for $5 that I'll use for the MR Beer 2015 Spring Helles Bock. I'm thinking I'll do another partial mash once I have two free LBK's.

:rockin: Kinda addicting isn't it.

 

[detlion1643]

So i've been staring at my Mr. Beer keg fermenter for a while now as it collects dust. I've only ever tried the 1 kit that came with it and didn't care for it. I've been doing lots of wine over the years since I found this site, but want to try my hand at beer again. Previously, I've discussed some recipes on here, but never actually had the time or equipment to fully venture into the beer side of the hobby.

So, to finally fulfill my interest into the beer side, I opted to try my hand at creating a spiced porter. I don't have any equipment for a good size batch, so I have to opt for a partial boil and top up method to make use of the empty fermenter.

Spiced Porter *2.5 gallons for Mr. Keg fermenter*

.5 lbs Light DME
1.5 lbs Amber DME
.25 lbs Chocolate Malt

.2 oz Cascade (60 min)
.2 oz East Kent Goldings (15 min)

1/2 tsp cinammon (15 min)
1/2 tsp ginger (15 min)
1/2 tsp nutmeg (15 min)

So, with the above, I will be boiling 2 gallons of water for 60 minutes. After it cools and into the fermenter, I will top up with water.

Does the chocolate malt go into the boil the whole time or should I steep it for only some of the time (if so, how much time)? Are there any other suggestions?

 

[bpgreen]

So i've been staring at my Mr. Beer keg fermenter for a while now as it collects dust. I've only ever tried the 1 kit that came with it and didn't care for it. I've been doing lots of wine over the years since I found this site, but want to try my hand at beer again. Previously, I've discussed some recipes on here, but never actually had the time or equipment to fully venture into the beer side of the hobby.

So, to finally fulfill my interest into the beer side, I opted to try my hand at creating a spiced porter. I don't have any equipment for a good size batch, so I have to opt for a partial boil and top up method to make use of the empty fermenter.

Spiced Porter *2.5 gallons for Mr. Keg fermenter*

.5 lbs Light DME
1.5 lbs Amber DME
.25 lbs Chocolate Malt

.2 oz Cascade (60 min)
.2 oz East Kent Goldings (15 min)

1/2 tsp cinammon (15 min)
1/2 tsp ginger (15 min)
1/2 tsp nutmeg (15 min)

So, with the above, I will be boiling 2 gallons of water for 60 minutes. After it cools and into the fermenter, I will top up with water.

Does the chocolate malt go into the boil the whole time or should I steep it for only some of the time (if so, how much time)? Are there any other suggestions?

You'll want to steep the malt for roughly 30 minutes before starting the boil. Drain it off and boil the resulting liquid.

I'm not a big fan of spices in beer and haven't used them in a long time, but offhand that looks like a lot of spice for a Mr Beer sized batch. With spices, a little can go a long way. I would think that 1/2 tsp total would be about right, or maybe, since you'er using 3 spices, 3/4 tsp (1/4 of each). But as I said, I haven't used spices in a long time, so maybe somebody who uses spices more often can chime in.

 

[detlion1643]

Thanks for the info bpgreen. I'll leave out the spices for this one to test the basics first.

I've been playing with the brewersfriend recipe creator for numbers, and made some changes:

.25 lbs Chocolate Malt (steeped before) *unchanged*

*changed (amounts and type)*
1 lbs Extra Light DME
2 lbs Dark DME

*changed both of these to .5 oz, also EKG at 30*
.5 oz Cascade (60 min)
.5 oz East Kent Goldings (30 min)
*I read that porters/stouts shouldn't really be getting into the 15 minute hop addition, but that just might be peoples opinions*

That gives about the following which states it's within the style I am looking for:
OG: 1.053
FG: 1.013
ABV: 5.22%
IBU: 19.00
SRM: 24.74

 

[TonyKZ1]

You also might check out some of the recipes they have over on the Mr. Beer site. As they've got quite a few standard refills plus more advanced recipes too. Quite often the guys will find that instead of the beer refill being bad, it was their procedure (recommended 3 weeks in fermenter and 4 weeks in the bottle carbonation/conditioning), sanitizing, or lack of that caused the problems.

 

[douglasbarbin]

Thanks for the info bpgreen. I'll leave out the spices for this one to test the basics first.

I've been playing with the brewersfriend recipe creator for numbers, and made some changes:

.25 lbs Chocolate Malt (steeped before) *unchanged*

*changed (amounts and type)*
1 lbs Extra Light DME
2 lbs Dark DME

*changed both of these to .5 oz, also EKG at 30*
.5 oz Cascade (60 min)
.5 oz East Kent Goldings (30 min)
*I read that porters/stouts shouldn't really be getting into the 15 minute hop addition, but that just might be peoples opinions*

That gives about the following which states it's within the style I am looking for:
OG: 1.053
FG: 1.013
ABV: 5.22%
IBU: 19.00
SRM: 24.74

You are basically doing only a bittering addition with that hop schedule. If you want flavor/aroma, do an addition near the end of the boil. Some people like it, others prefer to let the roasted grains dominate the nose.

 

[rich5665]

I've got 3 empty LBKs just waiting to be put back into use. I picked up the Mr. Beer 2015 Spring Helles Bock, it's 3.75 pounds of HME that'll go into 1 LBK and I'm thinking of doing all grain batch and splitting it between the other 2 LBKs. That leaves my DIY 5 gallon Primary open for another batch. I also was the recipient of 2 - 5 gallon carboys that need to be cleaned, sanatized and put to use. Oh the agony

 

[bwidner]

Hi everyone and thanks ahead for any advice or replies, as most a Mr beer kit got me into the hobby, I quickly moved to extract brewing and after a few batches onto BIAB. I have made a few ipas at this point and have gone really heavy with late hop additions and dry hopping, however two weeks after bottline when I crack one open there is very little hop aroma or taste and I feel like I am missing something. My most recent was an amber ipa 2.5 gal batch and here were the additions

FWH- 1 oz chinook
15 min- 1 oz simcoe
10 min .75 oz centennial
5 minute .75 centennial
3 min .5 centennial
flameout 1oz centennial

Dry hopped 5 days in secondary with 1.5 oz centennial and 1 oz citra.

I would think this would lead to a very hop forward beer, and while it is very good there just is no reall hoppiness to it. I used s-04 yeast as well and rehydrated it prior to pitching.

So my question really is(sorry if the background is not needed!)has anyone else experienced this? I actually wonder if the LBK venting system is allowing aroma to leak out or not be absorbed? I have another thread int he recipe section and already have determined based off response that I need to add more hops in the 25-7 minute left to boil range to help with flavor.

 

[douglasbarbin]

Hi everyone and thanks ahead for any advice or replies, as most a Mr beer kit got me into the hobby, I quickly moved to extract brewing and after a few batches onto BIAB. I have made a few ipas at this point and have gone really heavy with late hop additions and dry hopping, however two weeks after bottline when I crack one open there is very little hop aroma or taste and I feel like I am missing something. My most recent was an amber ipa 2.5 gal batch and here were the additions

FWH- 1 oz chinook
15 min- 1 oz simcoe
10 min .75 oz centennial
5 minute .75 centennial
3 min .5 centennial
flameout 1oz centennial

Dry hopped 5 days in secondary with 1.5 oz centennial and 1 oz citra.

I would think this would lead to a very hop forward beer, and while it is very good there just is no reall hoppiness to it. I used s-04 yeast as well and rehydrated it prior to pitching.

So my question really is(sorry if the background is not needed!)has anyone else experienced this? I actually wonder if the LBK venting system is allowing aroma to leak out or not be absorbed? I have another thread int he recipe section and already have determined based off response that I need to add more hops in the 25-7 minute left to boil range to help with flavor.

The LBK venting system isn't really much different from a traditional airlock, in that they both let air escape from the fermenter. I don't think that's your issue.

How do you chill your wort before transferring to the fermenter? It's important to chill it quickly to "lock in" the aroma; otherwise, it will volatize and evaporate when the temperature is too high.

 

[Kirkwooder]

Hi everyone and thanks ahead for any advice or replies, as most a Mr beer kit got me into the hobby, I quickly moved to extract brewing and after a few batches onto BIAB. I have made a few ipas at this point and have gone really heavy with late hop additions and dry hopping, however two weeks after bottline when I crack one open there is very little hop aroma or taste and I feel like I am missing something. My most recent was an amber ipa 2.5 gal batch and here were the additions

FWH- 1 oz chinook
15 min- 1 oz simcoe
10 min .75 oz centennial
5 minute .75 centennial
3 min .5 centennial
flameout 1oz centennial

Dry hopped 5 days in secondary with 1.5 oz centennial and 1 oz citra.

I would think this would lead to a very hop forward beer, and while it is very good there just is no reall hoppiness to it. I used s-04 yeast as well and rehydrated it prior to pitching.

So my question really is(sorry if the background is not needed!)has anyone else experienced this? I actually wonder if the LBK venting system is allowing aroma to leak out or not be absorbed? I have another thread int he recipe section and already have determined based off response that I need to add more hops in the 25-7 minute left to boil range to help with flavor.

How fresh were your hops? Freshness is huge in hop utilization. The fresher the better. I have seen hop packages in some LHBS that were 2 years old.

 

[bwidner]

The LBK venting system isn't really much different from a traditional airlock, in that they both let air escape from the fermenter. I don't think that's your issue.

How do you chill your wort before transferring to the fermenter? It's important to chill it quickly to "lock in" the aroma; otherwise, it will volatize and evaporate when the temperature is too high.

Until my last two batches it was an ice bath, I just bought a chiller and neither of those are ready yet so that very well may be the case.