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Thanks, Revvy. I was thinking it was too much too, about a gallon too much. There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of bubbling action from the MRB kit ingredients, so was afraid it wouldn't push the oxygen out.

Could I flip my plan and use the MRB keg as the primary and the 5 gal as the secondary for this batch, or would this be a screw up, too? Maybe I just need to order another container.

I have two more MRB recipes to use before I go to 5 gal batches, so I don't really want to buy a 3 gal fermenter just for these next two batches.

Thanks, again....
 
431brew said:
Thanks, Revvy. I was thinking it was too much too, about a gallon too much. There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of bubbling action from the MRB kit ingredients, so was afraid it wouldn't push the O2 out.

Thanks, again....

You're welcome...

It's so hard to tell with the current incarnation of MR B whether or not there's any action, it just doesn't really bubble. (I hate that they got rid of the lid with the airlock...I think that's done the worst damage for our little fermenter.)
 
431brew said:
Could I flip my plan and use the MRB keg as the primary and the 5 gal as the secondary for this batch, or would this be a screw up, too? Maybe I just need to order another container.

I have two more MRB recipes to use before I go to 5 gal batches, so I don't really want to buy a 3 gal fermenter just for these next two batches.


Can you give me your two cents on this?
 
431brew said:
Can you give me your two cents on this?


I'm still not comfortable with 2.5+ gallons of headspace for the secondary. I don't think that a 2-2.5 gallon batch of beer would produce enough co2 in the secondary to put a protective cushion on it....You may be fine, but I dunno.

Honestly? I wouldn't bother with a secondary for the mister beer batches...I would instead go 2 weeks in primary, then bottle and condition for 3-6 weeks to let the beer clear. But that's just my opinion...You could spend 2 bucks on some irish moss, and add 1 tsp to the boil.
 
431brew said:
Can you give me your two cents on this?

Keep it simple if you don't have the equipment. I'd just leave it in the keg for 2-3 weeks if it cranking at the right temp.

At 2-3 weeks taste it and ask yourself this. Use the spigot and a shot glass. Does it taste like sweet or like warm yeasty beer? If its sweet wait, if its warm beer, bottle.

Definately wait for 6-8 weeks before drinking.
 
Thanks, guys. I got in from work early and was going to brew as I outlined a few posts ago. However, taking your advice because I do not want to ruin my beer with the extra headspace.

I need to round up more supplies this weekend. I have enough stuff to think about brewing something, but not enough to do anything:

I have a 5-6 gal fermenter, but not enough ingredients for 5 gal beer.

I have ingredients for 2 1/2 gal brew, but have some already in the MRB keg.

I have 2 1/2 gals of apple juice, a pound of sugar, and some yeast, but same problem as before.....my bucket is too big and the little keg is full.

Kind of like being teased by a girl....:(
 
431brew said:
Thanks, guys. I got in from work early and was going to brew as I outlined a few posts ago. However, taking your advice because I do not want to ruin my beer with the extra headspace.

I need to round up more supplies this weekend. I have enough stuff to think about brewing something, but not enough to do anything:

I have a 5-6 gal fermenter, but not enough ingredients for 5 gal beer.

I have ingredients for 2 1/2 gal brew, but have some already in the MRB keg.

I have 2 1/2 gals of apple juice, a pound of sugar, and some yeast, but same problem as before.....my bucket is too big and the little keg is full.

Kind of like being teased by a girl....:(

For $5, go to Lowes or Home Depot, maybe the local grocery store and get a 3 gal water bottle!!
The water is good for brewing too. Its the blue bottles with PET or PETE and a 1 inside the triangle.

I brew 2 gal batches in 3 gal PET bottles all of the time. I never use the MRB keg for fermenting, just bottling.

The 3 gal jug can take a carboy cap w/ an airlock. If you don't have one sanitize some tin foil then wrap it over top and let'er rip!!!

:mug:
 
my first batch is at 10 days in the keg and there is stuff floating on top with thick stringy looking stuff hanging into the beer. Is this normal or did something go wrong?
 
CAsch said:
my first batch is at 10 days in the keg and there is stuff floating on top with thick stringy looking stuff hanging into the beer. Is this normal or did something go wrong?

That's not normal. Sounds like an icky infection. do you have a digital camera? pics help a ton in identifying something like this.
 
Schlenkerla said:
For $5, go to Lowes or Home Depot, maybe the local grocery store and get a 3 gal water bottle!!
The water is good for brewing too. Its the blue bottles with PET or PETE and a 1 inside the triangle.

I brew 2 gal batches in 3 gal PET bottles all of the time. I never use the MRB keg for fermenting, just bottling.

The 3 gal jug can take a carboy cap w/ an airlock. If you don't have one sanitize some tin foil then wrap it over top and let'er rip!!!

:mug:


Thanks, Schlenkerla. I will try Lowes or Home Depot. My small town grocery store has the 3 gal water bottles, but they are #7's.

My goal for the weekend: Get a 3 gal container! (Maybe two.)
 
That's what I was afraid of. I can try to see if I can get a picture of it, it's hard to see through the sides of the keg. Could this also be related to the fact that my mix is over 2 years old?:eek:
 
CAsch said:
That's what I was afraid of. I can try to see if I can get a picture of it, it's hard to see through the sides of the keg. Could this also be related to the fact that my mix is over 2 years old?:eek:

Also take a pic through the top...so we can see what's on the surface...Put a light behind the fermetor when you take a side pic. Try to get us as many diff angles and pics as possible.

If it's infection, it would be more the result of a problem with your sanitization procedures, or something getting in when you had the lid off, rather than a 2 year old mix (unless the can was swollen or something).

It's really really hard to get an infection in beer.. So I'm not ready to call it an infection without more info. And to be able to see some pics. Stringiness is usually a sign of infection...But what looks "Stringyy" to you might not to someone who's actually seen an infection. It could be parts of the Krausen starting to drop.

What was your recipe? Was there any fruit involved?

Does it smell bad?
 
There was no swelling of the can. Actually looking at it this morning I was only able to see one spot that looked like what I was talking about. I tried to get a picture of it , but it is hard to see. No fruits or anything added I used a WCPA and followed the directions. It doesn't smell bad it actually smells like caramelized sugar.

Really hard to see it, but the hanging stuff is on the right in the picture. The left side is the back of the keg with my crappy flash light up against it.


the only way to get a top pic was with the lid off.


Color
 
i did it was off for a picture then immediately back on, never even left my hand.
 
Did you taste it, cause that'll tell you more than anything.

If the stringy "stuff" is roapy, then you'ld have problems that you could smell and it would taste pretty bad.

It looks OK to me, but taste it. That really is the key.
 
just tasted it. It tastes ok. Flat, but that is to be expected. If it looks ok and tastes ok and has been in for 10 days, do you think its ready for bottling?
 
CAsch said:
just tasted it. It tastes ok. Flat, but that is to be expected. If it looks ok and tastes ok and has been in for 10 days, do you think its ready for bottling?

Yep...I'd go ahead an bpttle if there's no nasty taste to it...and give the bottles 3 weeks to carb and condition.
 
Thanks for helping me out guys. The beer is now bottled and sitting in a box in the hall closet. :)
 
Revvy said:
Let us know in 3 weeks how it turns out...:mug:

Will do. I want it to be done now, but I guess I can wait. I talked to a guy that works with my wife and he has been doing this for a while now and said if I ever have any questions he would be glad to help out. Plus he is getting ready to start a new batch and has invited me over to help/watch/learn and drink some of his beer.:mug:
 
I recently bought a new Mr. Beer Deluxe. I've brewed the Canadian Draft kit with store-bought natural spring water. I followed instructions as specified. The temperature of my two gallon fermenter falls roughly within 68 to 72 degrees.

It's been roughly 24 hours since adding the yeast. Looking inside with a flashlight, there is a very thin layer of krausen (foam) covering maybe 60% of the beer's surface. My primary fermentation doesn't seem very active when compared to articles I've been reading about the primary ferment stage.

Is this normal for the Mr. Beer system, or should there be a thicker layer of krausen (foam) on the top of my wort at this point?

Thank you!
Patrick
 
Oynkhawk said:
I recently bought a new Mr. Beer Deluxe. I've brewed the Canadian Draft kit with store-bought natural spring water. I followed instructions as specified. The temperature of my two gallon fermenter falls roughly within 68 to 72 degrees.

It's been roughly 24 hours since adding the yeast. Looking inside with a flashlight, there is a very thin layer of krausen (foam) covering maybe 60% of the beer's surface. My primary fermentation doesn't seem very active when compared to articles I've been reading about the primary ferment stage.

Is this normal for the Mr. Beer system, or should there be a thicker layer of krausen (foam) on the top of my wort at this point?

Thank you!
Patrick

Don't worry about it....It's really not that obvious with the mr beer. I think it has to do with the shape of the fermenter and lack of airlock (and a bubbling airlock isn't a true sign anyway.) I never had big krausening on my batches either...and they turned out fine.

And since you're on the warm side of fermentation temps you won't have to worry about the yeast going to sleep (though if you could get the fermentor in a place that's in the mid 60's it'd be better...too warm of a fermentation could result in a fuesil alchohol taste.) But again, if you cant get it a little cooler, don't worry about it.
 
Thank you for the quick response and insight! It's great to know that experienced brewers like yourself are here to help guide a beginning beer brewer like me.

I'll gladly turn the room temperature back to about the mid to high 60's. It gives me a valid excuse to save a bit on energy bills.

I am relieved that there is something going on in my fermenter. That's always a good sign. A cooler temperature will likely extend the fermentation time, but lower the esters, right? I've read that suitably lower temperatures can decrease odd tastes, like esters, caused at warmer temperatures.

It's not entirely different than when I created a batch of meade years ago (honey wine)... several similarities to brewing beer. But, with the meade, fermentation was very active during the first few days... my ferm lock was bubbling away steadily. I expected the same reaction in my Mr. Beer experience.

Regardless, I really appreciate your assurances.

Thanks a million!
Patrick
 
Instead of putting the priming sugar in the bottle this time I tried what another member suggested. I tried putting a 1/3 cup sugar in a cup of water and boiling it for 15 minutes, stirring the simple syrup into the fermenter (ever so gently) and after a week my brew is still flat. It did pop however, suggesting that it is carbonating. From reading throughout this thread I have learned that time is my friend. My question is, should I check every few days to see if it has fully carbonated. The brew is in 12oz. glass bottles by the way so I can't just squeeze them. Thank you in advance for all your help and guidance.

-Wingnut
 
Wingnut21 said:
Instead of putting the priming sugar in the bottle this time I tried what another member suggested. I tried putting a 1/3 cup sugar in a cup of water and boiling it for 15 minutes, stirring the simple syrup into the fermenter (ever so gently) and after a week my brew is still flat. It did pop however, suggesting that it is carbonating. From reading throughout this thread I have learned that time is my friend. My question is, should I check every few days to see if it has fully carbonated. The brew is in 12oz. glass bottles by the way so I can't just squeeze them. Thank you in advance for all your help and guidance.

-Wingnut

3 weeks @ 70! 3 weeks @ 70! 3 Weeks @ 70!!!!!!! And don't touch them before hand. :D
 
Great thanks Revvy. That's exactly what I needed to know. I hope to upgrade from Mr. Beer soon and have been looking at NB. Any other suggestions? I would like to go glass and 2 stage if possible.
 
Schlenkerla said:
For $5, go to Lowes or Home Depot, maybe the local grocery store and get a 3 gal water bottle!!
The water is good for brewing too. Its the blue bottles with PET or PETE and a 1 inside the triangle.

I brew 2 gal batches in 3 gal PET bottles all of the time. I never use the MRB keg for fermenting, just bottling.

The 3 gal jug can take a carboy cap w/ an airlock. If you don't have one sanitize some tin foil then wrap it over top and let'er rip!!!

:mug:


All of the 3 (and 5) gal water bottles here and in the surrounding cities are #7's and are $12 and $14, respectively. It must be something to do with living in south AL. Maybe someone will put one on ebay!

In the meantime, I bought a 3 gal carboy to get all my brewing going over the weekend. It seemed like a complete waste of money even if the water bottles are #7's.
 
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