Mr Beer - Read all about it and ask questions

[brewski09]

I'd call it a pretty minor variance for what it's supposed to be. Did the kit call for added sugar or a booster pack? Those usually give you 1%. Also, check the hydrometer on just water. My tap (cold water) reads 1.002-1.003 but hydrometer a are notorious for being off sometimes. Check periodically to make sure you stay calibrated. Also calibrate your thermometer regularly. I've been off by over 10 degrees before.

 

[V1nny]

It's been about 36 hours and I'm not getting good krausen. There are bubbles that show fermentation but it pretty weak. Also I'm getting a sour milk smell. It's not strong but it's there. Infected?

Because I've been getting that damned after taste I really kept this batch cool, around 60-62. I hydrated the yeast in some sugar water prior to pitching as well thinking it would help. Is it just lag or did something go terribly wrong?

 

[Kirkwooder]

It's been about 36 hours and I'm not getting good krausen. There are bubbles that show fermentation but it pretty weak. Also I'm getting a sour milk smell. It's not strong but it's there. Infected?

Because I've been getting that damned after taste I really kept this batch cool, around 60-62. I hydrated the yeast in some sugar water prior to pitching as well thinking it would help. Is it just lag or did something go terribly wrong?

I would bet that you don't have an infection. Just an active fermentation. It's not likely to get overly active with a 1.030 beer though.

As for the after taste, what yeast are you using? I'm not fond of the Mr. beer yeast.

 

[slym2none]

My Mr. Beer Novacaine has been in the fermenter 13 days, and I still have about a 1" thick layer of krausen. Is this high-gravity brew just going to take a while to ferment? My plan is to let it go for 4 weeks in the LBK anyway, so no worries, I am just curious. FTR - I used an entire 11.5g packet if US-05 yeast, and since I had a volume issue, my volume is 2.4 gallons, and with some help from another user & qBrew, this will be about a 10.8% ABV beer instead of a 12%-er.

Also, something I wondered - if we are to wait until primary fermentation is mostly done before dry-hopping, how do I avoid letting in regular air (oxygen-rich regular air) and messing up the layer of CO² when I unscrew the lid to toss the hops in?

 

[Kirkwooder]

My Mr. Beer Novacaine has been in the fermenter 13 days, and I still have about a 1" thick layer of krausen. Is this high-gravity brew just going to take a while to ferment? My plan is to let it go for 4 weeks in the LBK anyway, so no worries, I am just curious.

Also, something I wondered - if we are to wait until primary fermentation is mostly done before dry-hopping, how do I avoid letting in regular air (oxygen-rich regular air) and messing up the layer of CO² when I unscrew the lid to toss the hops in?

Bigger beers do sometimes take a bit of extra time to ferment out. Let it ride, it should be done well before the 4 week mark.

Just throw the hops in and don't worry too much about the oxygen getting into your beer. Just be careful not to splash any more than necessary. RDWHAHB

 

[slym2none]

Thanks (again!), Kirkwooder!

 

[V1nny]

I would bet that you don't have an infection. Just an active fermentation. It's not likely to get overly active with a 1.030 beer though.

As for the after taste, what yeast are you using? I'm not fond of the Mr. beer yeast.

I'm using the dry gold packet that comes in the HME cans. I figured the the yeast isn't choice, but I think the bready tomato soup after taste I got consistently through 3 batches was from pitching at too high a temp and not managing fermentation temps typically at an ambient air temp of 69-74 in a dark closet.

 

[Kirkwooder]

Fermentation temps. are very important to the final product, no matter the yeast. I try and ferment most of my standard pale ale type beers at no higher than 66*-67*F. I often find I start getting noticeable off flavors above 69*. Especially with the Mr. Beer, Muntons, and Coopers yeasts. I don't do many "kit in a can" beers any more but the few that I have done in the last couple years I replaced the yeast with us-05 and they came out much better.

 

[slym2none]

So, two days ago, still a good layer of krausen on my brew. Tonight, the only sign is the ring around the LBK. FINALLY!

:fro:

Now, 10-11 more days to make sure it's done & some cleanup by the yeasty beasties, then a 2-day cold crash, and then bottling!



It's gonna be the 6-7 month wait before even trying one that's gonna hurt. Next up, an IPA!

 

[slym2none]

A question about my upcoming IPA - it is using the Diablo HME from MrB, and if it is anything like the last MrB kit I used, the beer is a little thin with not much in the way of head-retention. I plan on using 4 oz. of Carapils (or Carafoam) for this, but I also want to add a little red colour, as I am also adding some DME & hops, and will call it "A Helluva IPA." Someone on another site told me to use CaraRed, but I have read where it doesn't really add much red to the colour, plus it is a caramel malt and will add sweetness that isn't right for an IPA. Then someone else mentioned elsewhere about using a very small amount of black malt and that will add a red colour, but now I am worried about the 'roasty-toasty' flavour that can put off. My LHBS doesn't carry RedX, so I can't use that.

Any ideas? Will just a small amount of black malts be OK? Or should I look for another way to get the colour I am looking for? If so, any suggestions would be appreciated.

TIA!

 

[Kirkwooder]

Hey Slym, have you already bought the Mr. Beer IPA kit? If not, try this recipe instead, it makes a killer IPA.

2 gallon batch

5 oz caramel 40 steeped while heating water to 170*, then remove.

3.3 # golden malt lme

.4 oz centennial @ 60 min.
.4 oz centennial @ 20 min
.8 oz centennial @ 5 min
.4 oz centennial dry hop

Ferment with us-05

 

[douglasbarbin]

A question about my upcoming IPA - it is using the Diablo HME from MrB, and if it is anything like the last MrB kit I used, the beer is a little thin with not much in the way of head-retention. I plan on using 4 oz. of Carapils (or Carafoam) for this, but I also want to add a little red colour, as I am also adding some DME & hops, and will call it "A Helluva IPA." Someone on another site told me to use CaraRed, but I have read where it doesn't really add much red to the colour, plus it is a caramel malt and will add sweetness that isn't right for an IPA. Then someone else mentioned elsewhere about using a very small amount of black malt and that will add a red colour, but now I am worried about the 'roasty-toasty' flavour that can put off. My LHBS doesn't carry RedX, so I can't use that.

Any ideas? Will just a small amount of black malts be OK? Or should I look for another way to get the colour I am looking for? If so, any suggestions would be appreciated.

TIA!

You can use a very small amount of dark malt or roasted barley for color without any of the roastiness coming through. I think Carafa II probably gives you the most color for the least amount of roastiness. Put maybe 1% (or less) into your recipe and see how that adjusts color.

 

[PC509]

Last batch (Pilsner) from Mr. Beer before moving up to the 5 gallon batch finally complete. Clear, fully carbonated, tastes ok. A little sweet. I did use the dextrose (.22 cup boiled with 2 cups water, then added to bottling bucket) rather than the tabs I used in previous batches (slowly buying materials for larger batches). I'm wondering if I didn't keep it warm enough or not enough yeast survived to consume all the dextrose in the bottle during conditioning, maybe? I have no idea. Other than that, the taste is fine but a little weak. Next weekend, I'm buying a recipe kit for a 5 gallon batch and starting on that! Whoo hoo!

 

[slym2none]

Hey Slym, have you already bought the Mr. Beer IPA kit? If not, try this recipe instead, it makes a killer IPA.

2 gallon batch

5 oz caramel 40 steeped while heating water to 170*, then remove.

3.3 # golden malt lme

.4 oz centennial @ 60 min.
.4 oz centennial @ 20 min
.8 oz centennial @ 5 min
.4 oz centennial dry hop

Ferment with us-05

Yeah, we've already got the HME - but I will put this recipe away for future use!

 

[slym2none]

You can use a very small amount of dark malt or roasted barley for color without any of the roastiness coming through. I think Carafa II probably gives you the most color for the least amount of roastiness. Put maybe 1% (or less) into your recipe and see how that adjusts color.

Thank you!

 

[vondetour]

So I read that some of you bought Mr. beer used, if I bought a used kit can I use any beer ingredients or do i have to buy the Mr. beer ingredients. I was thinking of going my local brew store and buying the grains in bulk.

 

[slym2none]

You can use any recipe and scale it down. Take a 5-gallon recipe, multiply the ingredients by .4, and there you go. Extract, partial-grain, all-grain, it's all available. The only thing you can't do in a Mr Beer "Little Brown Keg" (LBK) that larger-batch brewers do is make 5 gallons of beer.

 

[vondetour]

slym2none thanks for the help, was reading this thread and found a used Mr. beer on craigslist, no idea how old the ingredients are. I have Addison Homebrew Provisions down the road and they have every thing for brewing plus brewing demonstrations on Saturdays so I'm good to go.

 

[douglasbarbin]

slym2none thanks for the help, was reading this thread and found a used Mr. beer on craigslist, no idea how old the ingredients are. I have Addison Homebrew Provisions down the road and they have every thing for brewing plus brewing demonstrations on Saturdays so I'm good to go.

I probably wouldn't trust the ingredients that come with the kit because they aren't always fresh in the first place. Stop by your local store and tell them that you need to put together a recipe for a Mr. Beer and those guys should be able to help you out.

 

[ericbw]

A question about my upcoming IPA - it is using the Diablo HME from MrB, and if it is anything like the last MrB kit I used, the beer is a little thin with not much in the way of head-retention. I plan on using 4 oz. of Carapils (or Carafoam) for this, but I also want to add a little red colour, as I am also adding some DME & hops, and will call it "A Helluva IPA." Someone on another site told me to use CaraRed, but I have read where it doesn't really add much red to the colour, plus it is a caramel malt and will add sweetness that isn't right for an IPA. Then someone else mentioned elsewhere about using a very small amount of black malt and that will add a red colour, but now I am worried about the 'roasty-toasty' flavour that can put off. My LHBS doesn't carry RedX, so I can't use that.

Any ideas? Will just a small amount of black malts be OK? Or should I look for another way to get the colour I am looking for? If so, any suggestions would be appreciated.

TIA!

Like someone said, a tiny bit of black or roasted barley will give you red without affecting the flavor. On the other hand, while roast flavor is out of place in an IPA, crystal malts and their sweetness are not totally out of place. It would be offset by the bitter and hoppiness of an IPA.

Just a thought.

 

[Oginme]

Like someone said, a tiny bit of black or roasted barley will give you red without affecting the flavor. On the other hand, while roast flavor is out of place in an IPA, crystal malts and their sweetness are not totally out of place. It would be offset by the bitter and hoppiness of an IPA.

Just a thought.

First, if you are not brewing for competition, don't worry about any potential roast flavors. On the other hand, too much caramel/crystal malt sweetness can be hard to overcome with the hop bitterness. The usually, less than 1% roasted barley needed to get some nice red hues into a pale or light amber beer should not make much of a flavor impact. If you are concerned, you can also try the debittered roasted malts, which will give much less of the acerbic roasted flavors.

 

[slym2none]

Thanks for all the replies, guys!

So, would 2 oz of CaraRed give me enough colour, and not be too sweet for a 2.5 gallon brew? 1 oz of black malts? Less???

 

[douglasbarbin]

First, if you are not brewing for competition, don't worry about any potential roast flavors. On the other hand, too much caramel/crystal malt sweetness can be hard to overcome with the hop bitterness. The usually, less than 1% roasted barley needed to get some nice red hues into a pale or light amber beer should not make much of a flavor impact. If you are concerned, you can also try the debittered roasted malts, which will give much less of the acerbic roasted flavors.

To reiterate, I would go with Roasted Barley or one of the Carafa's for color adjustment. They will give you more color without affecting flavor when compared to using any of the crystal malts.

For what it's worth, I really don't like crystal malts in my IPAs and typically use it at a rate of about 2%. I never use more than 5%. If you look at most of the "world-class" IPA recipes (both Plinys, Heady Topper, etc.) I think you will find that most of them use a very low percentage of crystal as well.

 

[douglasbarbin]

Thanks for all the replies, guys!

So, would 2 oz of CaraRed give me enough colour, and not be too sweet for a 2.5 gallon brew? 1 oz of black malts? Less???

Definitely use less than 1 oz if you are using black patent malt, roasted barley, Carafa II, etc. I would say make it 1% or less of your total grist. Use a software like BeerSmith and plug it in to your recipe to get a general idea of how much you need to get the color you want.

I wouldn't bother with the CaraRed at all. To give you a perspective, CaraRed's color is about 20 degrees Lovibond. Black Patent Malt, Roasted Barley, and Carafa I/II/III are all in the range of 300-560 degrees Lovibond. So they will give you a lot more color for the same amount of grain when compared to something like CaraRed, Crystal 20, Crystal 60, etc.

 

[slym2none]

Thank you, @douglasbarbin !

 

[PC509]

Question on old Mr. Beer extracts.... I keep finding some old (Expires 2012/2013) Mr. Beer kits for $6 or so. They come with the IPA and booster. While I'm assuming the yeast is not any good, would the extract yield any decent results? Or would the taste be too funky? I'm moving past the Mr. Beer stuff, but seeing these available (plus, the bottles and the rest of the kit are good) has me interested in keeping a 2 gallon batch going.

 

[slym2none]

Personally, I would not use. I might use one if it was only a year or so out of date, expecting a darker colour, but 3-4 years out of date? No thank you. However, $6 is a steal for the LBK, bottles, and even the no-rinse cleanser.

 

[PC509]

Cool. I might pick them up as I see them (I have 3 kits now, with 1 old Pale Ale can). The bottles were worth it for me. I only use 2 of the LBK, with the other one I used the spigot for a DIY bottling bucket.

Thanks!

 

[ericbw]

The LBK is $15 usually, so that's a deal.

 

[slym2none]

I think I posted this elsewhere on the site, but got no responses, so I'm going to re-post it here:

So, I got curious and took a little sample of my Novacaine (21 days into fermentation). First impression is that I think I am going to need to rack this to a secondary, and I only hope that will help - the sample was very cloudy, and I am sure that's because I didn't strain the mixture before fermenting, and there was a LOT of stuff that should have been strained out. I honestly think the trub is about level with my spigot. The other impression I got is that while it does taste like beer, and definitely has some alcohol, it is still kind of sweet. This very well might not be done fermenting yet, 21 days after brewing & pitching the yeast. Estimated FG is 1.028 (OG was est. at 1.111), but IDK if that is why it tastes as sweet as it does.

Any advice/suggestions? (Besides straining my wort next time? ) Should I cold-crash it before moving to my 2nd LBK?