Mr Beer - Read all about it and ask questions

[Bigarcherynut]

The temp range given by Mr. Beer is, like most of their instructions, wrong. If you ferment with that MB ale yeast at 76*F, your beer will not taste good at all.

It will, however, ferment with a nicer, cleaner flavor by pitching into 62-65*F wort, placing it in your 62*F basement for the first 4-6 days and then moving to a warmer area (65-70*F) to finish.



Let it sit in the LBK 3 weeks.

Thanks BigFloyd. Hope to get things started early next week. Great to get all the help I need for my first batch.

 

[skitter]

I always do 2 weeks Max, I have had mold start growing around the cap if I let it sit longer than that. With most of the Mr. Beer kits they are done fermenting after 1 week and yeast finishes after 2. Unless you start making your own kits like I do and doing a 2.5g fermentation, you shouldn't ever have to do 3 weeks.

 

[brewski09]

I always do 2 weeks Max, I have had mold start growing around the cap if I let it sit longer than that. With most of the Mr. Beer kits they are done fermenting after 1 week and yeast finishes after 2. Unless you start making your own kits like I do and doing a 2.5g fermentation, you shouldn't ever have to do 3 weeks.

What do you sanitize with? I'm using StarSan.

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[skitter]

What do you sanitize with? I'm using StarSan.

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I always use star-san on everything. I am also swamp cooling my LBK's which may be a contributing factor for the mold, but it's right around the outside of the lid. The inside stays clean.

 

[bzwyatt]

Probably spilled some wort when you transferred to the LBK. I had one fermenting too high and came out the top. Didn't think about it too much, just left it, a few days later the overflow was moldy. Cleaned it up and no problems with the beer inside the LBK, but wort is just sugar water, basicslly. Grows mold fast.

 

[ecohio]

I am new to home brewing. I received a Mr Beer kit for Christmas. I made my first batch before finding this site. I have been reading many posts and stepped up today and bought a real starter kit and did my first 5 gallon brew. My question is I checked my temp with a temp gun on my Mr beer kit and the temp was up at 75 I have since moved to a cooler location where I placed this new batch. Do you think the four days it was at this higher temp ruined the beer?

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[skitter]

You may end up off, but you may like the flavor, relax and wait

 

[BigFloyd]

My question is I checked my temp with a temp gun on my Mr beer kit and the temp was up at 75 I have since moved to a cooler location where I placed this new batch. Do you think the four days it was at this higher temp ruined the beer?

Unfortunately, you're quite likely to get unwanted flavors (and possibly some fusel alcohol) at those temps. The first 4-5 days of the ferment is when things are at their most active and when pretty much all of the yeast stress-related off-flavors get produced.

A good basic practice to follow with most ale yeasts is to cool the wort to 60-62*F before pitching yeast then start fermenting at around 64*F. When the krausen begins to fall (usually after 3-6 days), let it start to warm up to finish at around 68-70.

 

[Trippel-A]

I am new to home brewing. I received a Mr Beer kit for Christmas. I made my first batch before finding this site. I have been reading many posts and stepped up today and bought a real starter kit and did my first 5 gallon brew. My question is I checked my temp with a temp gun on my Mr beer kit and the temp was up at 75 I have since moved to a cooler location where I placed this new batch. Do you think the four days it was at this higher temp ruined the beer?

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Ruined? Not likely. Affected negatively? Maybe. Temp control is tough at small scale unless you're blessed with a consistent basement temp or are willing to spend money on it. Just finish it up and see what you think.

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[whodat1]

I am new to home brewing. I received a Mr Beer kit for Christmas. I made my first batch before finding this site. I have been reading many posts and stepped up today and bought a real starter kit and did my first 5 gallon brew. My question is I checked my temp with a temp gun on my Mr beer kit and the temp was up at 75 I have since moved to a cooler location where I placed this new batch. Do you think the four days it was at this higher temp ruined the beer?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Home Brew mobile app

I did the same thing the first time I used Mr.Beer, which was also the first time I brewed beer. The batch fermented at 74°-76° degrees and I let it run 2 weeks at that temperature. Fortunately. it was the 'Dark Winter Ale'. The krausen was coming up through the airlock (I have one of the old style LBK's).

After that batch I went to temperature control during fermentation. But I had to brew at least 5 batches of other beers (some Mr.Beer, some LHBS recipes) before I had before I got one that tasted better than that first batch. I had friends agree that the first batch was pretty darn good.

So it probably won't ruin it, just change the taste as others are saying. I think I lucked out that I used a heavy dark ale and it was one of their Craft series ones.

 

[kevron]

I just bottled my first batch last night. It fermented for 2 weeks. Temps were all over the place. Being from Michigan and now living in Texas the temp swings are crazy. But I don't like turning the heat on till it gets in the 50's. It fermented about 69 for the first 2-3 days, then was up at 76 for a few days, then down to the lower 60's. It tasted fine last night. Tried a sample while bottling, and it tasted like a cheap beer. It is a classic american and it tasted like bud/miller/lone star. My next batch is gonna be in a 5gal bucket. Gonna keep the LBK for inmate brew.

 

[JohnSand]

I just bottled my first batch last night. It fermented for 2 weeks. Temps were all over the place. Being from Michigan and now living in Texas the temp swings are crazy. But I don't like turning the heat on till it gets in the 50's. It fermented about 69 for the first 2-3 days, then was up at 76 for a few days, then down to the lower 60's. It tasted fine last night. Tried a sample while bottling, and it tasted like a cheap beer. It is a classic american and it tasted like bud/miller/lone star. My next batch is gonna be in a 5gal bucket. Gonna keep the LBK for inmate brew.

I'm not a fan of MrBeer refills, though many are. After trying a few of those, I started making grain batches in the LBK. It's good for small batches, test batches, splitting 5g batches. I use a 5g ale pail too. It warms up faster with yeast activity, so watch that. Have fun!

 

[skitter]

I always add a lb of lme to my mr beer refills. I only get those when people gift them

 

[kevron]

I picked up the mrb kit a few weeks ago. I had been telling the Mrs. for years that I wanted to homebrew. Walking through the store I saw it and just snagged it. Before I even brewed it I had plans to get a bigger bucket. But with the size of the apartment there really isn't any place to ferment. Working on some ideas though. Especially if she likes what I brew. Cause the fermenting buckets would have to go in our bedroom. So if she likes what I brew, the smell in the bedroom might be easier for her to tolerate.

 

[JohnSand]

I had similar issues at first. I brewed and fermented in the kitchen, so my equipment had to be compact and tasteful. Now I ferment in the basement. When you progress to grain batches, you can still use the LBK to ferment. And you are very wise to consider your wife's feelings.

 

[Beanie7]

Is it wise to do a secondary fermentation with Mr. Beer kits?

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[Bigarcherynut]

Near beer? I don't remember it being that mild when I started with Mr. Beer.

Anyhow, you don't have to toss the starter kit. Either double up the extracts that were in the starter kit by buying/ordering more. Or if you just want alcohol and body without increasing the flavor, get more "booster," which is basically corn sugar. Are you sure there isn't a package of booster in there already that you're leaving out of the equation?

After reading some of the earlier posts on here like back in 2010, I read about people not liking the result they received using Booster. Has that changed??? Is there anything I should change in the process to not get the cidery taste many back then complained about? I already ordered some along with more kits.

Thanks.

 

[skitter]

After reading some of the earlier posts on here like back in 2010, I read about people not liking the result they received using Booster. Has that changed??? Is there anything I should change in the process to not get the cidery taste many back then complained about? I already ordered some along with more kits.

Thanks.

Don't use the booster. Sugar tends to water out your beer and make it taste hot. If you want to up the content add a Lb of DME/LME and a teaspoon of nutrient, it's the technical equivalent to what is in the booster.

 

[skitter]

Is it wise to do a secondary fermentation with Mr. Beer kits?

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You should never have to use a secondary on any beer unless they are big (9% ABV +) or have additives like berries.

 

[Bigarcherynut]

Don't use the booster. Sugar tends to water out your beer and make it taste hot. If you want to up the content add a Lb of DME/LME and a teaspoon of nutrient, it's the technical equivalent to what is in the booster.

Thanks for the tip. I guess I should have read more before buying the booster. Oh well it wasn't that much but I'll either have to buy something local or wait till my next order and get the LME.

Thanks.

 

[BigFloyd]

Is it wise to do a secondary fermentation with Mr. Beer kits?

No.

It is, however, wise to get a bottling bucket and wand (attached to the spigot with a very short piece of 3/8" tubing). That way you can leave the yeast cake behind in the LBK, prime the batch in the bucket (which is more controllable and consistent) and get good fills with minimal oxidation.

 

[brewski09]

You should never have to use a secondary on any beer unless they are big (9% ABV +) or have additives like berries.

I prefer secondaries on all my beers. I think they are clearer and cleaner tasting. Just my personal preference though

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[brewski09]

After reading some of the earlier posts on here like back in 2010, I read about people not liking the result they received using Booster. Has that changed??? Is there anything I should change in the process to not get the cidery taste many back then complained about? I already ordered some along with more kits.

Thanks.

You can use the pure sugar products in your beers. Look at recipes like Belgian beers or imperial IPAs. Many of the stronger ones use sugar to boat and thin the beer. I like to canalize sugar when I use it.

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[MadCat]

Its been a while since I have brewed beer, and all I've ever used is Mr. Beer (some recipes with added DME, and even one with steeping grains). I was staring at the LBK, and wanting to brew again, but use no Mr. Beer ingredients. So I was looking to put together two recipes with extract (dry or liquid, whichever is cheaper), hops, and possibly steeping grains or even a partial mash. Trying to figure out a good economical and tasty way to do this. I want to try to do a raspberry wheat (or hefeweizen) and a cherry stout. I plan on getting a can of the fruit that Mr. Beer offers, but from a local grocery store. No plans on a secondary fermentation (I only have one LBK). Can anybody give me some suggestions on a recipe for these two? Thanks for the help.

 

[skitter]

Thanks for the tip. I guess I should have read more before buying the booster. Oh well it wasn't that much but I'll either have to buy something local or wait till my next order and get the LME.

Thanks.

I'm fortunatw enough to have a local homebrew shop I can run to when I need supplies

 

[The_Professor]

...I want to try to do a raspberry wheat (or hefeweizen)...suggestions on a recipe...

I'd keep that recipe simple. Wheat UME (dry or liquid) to the ABV you want, low bittering hop rate with any hop, Hefe yeast or even American Ale if you want it cleaner. Add 2 cans of the raspberries.

 

[MadCat]

I'd keep that recipe simple. Wheat UME (dry or liquid) to the ABV you want, low bittering hop rate with any hop, Hefe yeast or even American Ale if you want it cleaner. Add 2 cans of the raspberries.

Thats along the lines of what I was thinking. I think I was leaning towards a dry hefe yeast. Was assuming one can of fruit but 2 is probably better without a secondary. Any guess on abv added by the fruit? And whats a pound of dme, like 1.1%? I think I would shoot for somewhere in the 5-7% range. For hops I was thinking a noble hop, but thats honestly the part I'm least sure of.

And I guess the cherry stout would follow a similar philosophy, just different extract, hops, and yeast?

Thanks!

 

[Bigarcherynut]

Don't use the booster. Sugar tends to water out your beer and make it taste hot. If you want to up the content add a Lb of DME/LME and a teaspoon of nutrient, it's the technical equivalent to what is in the booster.

skitter,

The kit that came with the the Mr. Beer system is the Classic American Light Standard Refill. Was looking to get the ABV up a little. I also ordered another refill that I may start with and wait on this one til I have the right DME or LME.

You said a teaspoon of nutrients also. Being new to this what would that be?

Also the DME and LME Mr. Beer has are rated as Golden, Pale, Robust and Smooth. How do I know what one to add? Is this going to be trial and error as far as what I like?

There is a deluxe refill with the same standard kit I have with a pack of LME that is Smooth. Didn't see that when I ordered or would have got that. If I go to a local brew shop is there anything special I need to ask for? Not sure if they rate their DME & LME the same?

Thanks.

 

[skitter]

Yeast Nutrients from a homebrew shop or online at places like midwestsupplies.com or northernbrewer.com. while that is what is in the booster, I have never used yeast nutrient in my beers, it just makes it ferment faster and hotter, as I have to use a swamp cooleras is to maintain 66 degrees constant, that is counter productive. I would rather ferment low and slow.

I go to my local homebrew store to pick mine up. Mr Beer tends to overcharge, also check the above sites for lme or dme.

Let me tell you what I did to the same refill you have right there:

Purchase 6oz crushed Domestic Carapils ($1.51) and 1lb Light Liquid Malt Extract ($3.09).

Heat 4cups water to 160°F .
Steep carapils in water with lid on for 30 minutes.
After 30 minutes lift out the carapils, let drain into pot, toss when done.
Bring water in the pot to a boil, watch for boilover.
Once water reaches a boil turn off your heat and add light LME and Mr. Beer kit, stir till completely mixed.

Pour 1g cold water into your Mr Beer kit, I use filtered refridgerated water.
Add contents of the pot, top off to 2g by the marker on the back of the keg.

I bought a 2.5g slimline water container from walmart at the behest of others here on the forum to use as a bottling bucket. Also picked up 6ft 1/2" tubing.

Keep in primary for 2 weeks.
Add 5tbsp sugar to 1c boiling water, add to bottling bucket. Put hose close to the bottom, you want as little aeration as possible.
Connect hose to the spigot on your Mr Beer keg.
Open Mr Beer valve slowly until liquid is covering the hose opening in the bottling bucket.
Once hose is covered you can open the valve up the rest of the way, tilting the keg as needed and halting the flow right as the yeast cake starts going into the hose.

Now your priming sugar is evenly mixed, transfer into bottles, tilting the bottles as needed to keep the wort running down the side of the bottle to minimize splashing. Oxygen is bad at this point. Place the cap loosely on top of the bottle to keep bugs and bad things out while you fill the rest of your bottles, this also allows the still fermenting yeast to push oxygen out of the bottles before you put the lids on.

Tighten lids and let the beer sit in the bottles for 2 weeks minimum, 1 month preffered. It pays to be patient

 

[Bigarcherynut]

Yeast Nutrients from a homebrew shop or online at places like midwestsupplies.com or northernbrewer.com. while that is what is in the booster, I have never used yeast nutrient in my beers, it just makes it ferment faster and hotter, as I have to use a swamp cooleras is to maintain 66 degrees constant, that is counter productive. I would rather ferment low and slow.

I go to my local homebrew store to pick mine up. Mr Beer tends to overcharge, also check the above sites for lme or dme.

Let me tell you what I did to the same refill you have right there:

Purchase 6oz crushed Domestic Carapils ($1.51) and 1lb Light Liquid Malt Extract ($3.09).

skitter,

Thanks for your help. I see a store not to far from me has Carapils but not crushed. Should I buy 6oz of whole grains and use that? They also have BRIESS CBW GOLDEN LIGHT DRY MALT EXTRACT 1 LB DME. Does that look like what you are talking about?

Man. I'm getting excited to get started.

 

[skitter]

Dry extract works too, more of a kick and a little more expensive.

They sho uld be able to crush them for you and if they ask you if you need a steeping bag say yes. If not when you get home spread them out in a zip lock and run a rolling pin over them.

 

[JohnSand]

Thats along the lines of what I was thinking. I think I was leaning towards a dry hefe yeast. Was assuming one can of fruit but 2 is probably better without a secondary. Any guess on abv added by the fruit? And whats a pound of dme, like 1.1%? I think I would shoot for somewhere in the 5-7% range. For hops I was thinking a noble hop, but thats honestly the part I'm least sure of.

And I guess the cherry stout would follow a similar philosophy, just different extract, hops, and yeast?

Thanks!

MadC, you can use any recipe in the LBK, just reduce it. A 5 gallon can be cut in half for 2.5g, or multiply by 40% for two gallons. Use a recipe book, or the recipes on this site. I choose forum recipes with plenty of positive feedback. Many people use the LBK for all grain batches. There used to be good info on the MrBeer Forum, but it can be hard to use. The BeerBorg Forum has some dedicated LBK users with plenty of experience. Of course, HBT is the king of beer forums.

 

[Blake_Smash]

Hey everyone, just got a Mr. Beer from my in-laws for christmas with the american classic light recipe kit.

I want to start brewing it either today or tomorrow but I wanted to get everything figured out first.

I see a lot of people in this thread saying to double the times on the recipe... Will it kill the beer if i let it sit in the LBK for 3 or 4 weeks or will it make the beer better by waiting?

Second, I do not really have a way to control the temps of the LBK, but my home is generally in the low 70's. (72-73 most of the time) is that a decent temp to ferment at?

Third, I literally just have the little recipe can with the dry yeast under the lid. What can I add to the kit to beef it up a little bit? I have heard that adding honey and things like that will add more flavor and beef up the ABV because of the added sugar in the LBK.

When would I add those things?

I don't have a local home brew store nearby so anything I could pick up at the grocery store would be great.

Thanks Everyone.

 

[skitter]

Hey everyone, just got a Mr. Beer from my in-laws for christmas with the american classic light recipe kit.

I want to start brewing it either today or tomorrow but I wanted to get everything figured out first.

I see a lot of people in this thread saying to double the times on the recipe... Will it kill the beer if i let it sit in the LBK for 3 or 4 weeks or will it make the beer better by waiting?

Second, I do not really have a way to control the temps of the LBK, but my home is generally in the low 70's. (72-73 most of the time) is that a decent temp to ferment at?

Third, I literally just have the little recipe can with the dry yeast under the lid. What can I add to the kit to beef it up a little bit? I have heard that adding honey and things like that will add more flavor and beef up the ABV because of the added sugar in the LBK.

When would I add those things?

I don't have a local home brew store nearby so anything I could pick up at the grocery store would be great.

Thanks Everyone.

Times: 2 Weeks in Fermenter, anything else past that in the LBK is not needed, and may lead to infection (active fermentation creates Co2 barrier and keeps nasties out).

2) Cake pan + water + towel draped over keg, add ice if needed. I use the swamp cooler method above and in a 70 degree house my keg stays 66. In a 74 degree house I need to add a bottle of ice twice a day.

3) Look back a couple posts, I gave somebody else a step by step on how to beef up their kit a little, I don't think I could write that much up again

 

[MadCat]

MadC, you can use any recipe in the LBK, just reduce it. A 5 gallon can be cut in half for 2.5g, or multiply by 40% for two gallons. Use a recipe book, or the recipes on this site. I choose forum recipes with plenty of positive feedback. Many people use the LBK for all grain batches. There used to be good info on the MrBeer Forum, but it can be hard to use. The BeerBorg Forum has some dedicated LBK users with plenty of experience. Of course, HBT is the king of beer forums.

Ok so I did a bit more researching... Finding recipes here is hard, but I think I came up with something decent for both, with a few questions.

Raspberry wheat
~3lb wheat malt extract (actually looks like liquid is cheaper so I may lean that way)
1 oz Perle or Hallertau hops (how long for the boil?)
1-2 cans raspberry puree (about how much by weight is good for good flavor?)
Maybe 8oz to 1lb of some steeping grain for mouthfeel, like carapils

Cherry Stout
~3lb dark malt extract
1 oz goldings (again unsure of boil time)
1-2 cans cherry puree
8oz to 1lb chocolate malt, maybe an additional steeping grain as well

Unsure if I should do 2 gallons or 2.5, trying to be between 5 and 7% abv, don't need to be precise. Also, whole leaf or pellet hops? Does it make a difference where hops aren't the star? I thonk I do want to do steeping grains to make these a little more special and less Mr. Beer.

Edit: safbrew wb-06 for the wheat, unsure of the stout, was thinking us-05, s-04, or danstar windsor ale.

 

[Blake_Smash]

Thanks. I did look back a few posts and saw your walkthrough. Since I don't have a local home brew store near me is there anyway I can get those things without ordering them online and waiting for shipping... Or any other ingredients I could find at the grocery store that might help?

 

[skitter]

Thanks. I did look back a few posts and saw your walkthrough. Since I don't have a local home brew store near me is there anyway I can get those things without ordering them online and waiting for shipping... Or any other ingredients I could find at the grocery store that might help?

Unfortunately not that I know of, you can use sugar but it would thin out your beer, however it would give you a higher alcohol content. Maybe corn syrup but again not sure about that one personally.

Maybe buy some extract kits + additives for a couple more batches, make the wait worth waiting for. Just don't buy form Mr. Beer, they are extremely overpriced. Try instead Northernbrewer.com of midwestsupplies.com

 

[Bigarcherynut]

Have all my things to start up my first batch. It was quit interesting making my first trip to the Wine and Hop Shop that's by where I work. Not only interesting but the aroma was great.

One question I have. I have watched the CD from Mr. Beer and read the sheet instructions and one says to use cold tap water and one says use refrigerated water. Well I have a well and the water is about 54 degrees. Is that Ok or should I refrigerate some?

skitter if you see this I'm using your recipie. Can't wait to get started. It's going to be a long 6 weeks or more.

Thanks

 

[BigFloyd]

I see a lot of people in this thread saying to double the times on the recipe... Will it kill the beer if i let it sit in the LBK for 3 or 4 weeks or will it make the beer better by waiting?

No, it's a fine idea to leave it in the LBK 3 weeks. Unless you did something earlier to introduce contamination or keep opening the lid (which you should not) while it's fermenting, you are not going to increase the risk of infection or any other problem.

Second, I do not really have a way to control the temps of the LBK, but my home is generally in the low 70's. (72-73 most of the time) is that a decent temp to ferment at?

No. You ought to take steps to keep it in the mid-60's.

Third, I literally just have the little recipe can with the dry yeast under the lid. What can I add to the kit to beef it up a little bit? I have heard that adding honey and things like that will add more flavor and beef up the ABV because of the added sugar in the LBK.

Adding honey or sugar will boost ABV, but will also cause the beer to be more dry and thin. To beef it up, you need to add dried malt extract (DME) which will boost ABV and add body/flavor. The CAL kit really needs help. Unless you like thin, weak beer, you're going to want to at least add 1/2lb of DME to the batch.

 

[JohnSand]

Ok so I did a bit more researching... Finding recipes here is hard, but I think I came up with something decent for both, with a few questions.

Raspberry wheat
~3lb wheat malt extract (actually looks like liquid is cheaper so I may lean that way)
1 oz Perle or Hallertau hops (how long for the boil?)
1-2 cans raspberry puree (about how much by weight is good for good flavor?)
Maybe 8oz to 1lb of some steeping grain for mouthfeel, like carapils

Cherry Stout
~3lb dark malt extract
1 oz goldings (again unsure of boil time)
1-2 cans cherry puree
8oz to 1lb chocolate malt, maybe an additional steeping grain as well

Unsure if I should do 2 gallons or 2.5, trying to be between 5 and 7% abv, don't need to be precise. Also, whole leaf or pellet hops? Does it make a difference where hops aren't the star? I thonk I do want to do steeping grains to make these a little more special and less Mr. Beer.

Edit: safbrew wb-06 for the wheat, unsure of the stout, was thinking us-05, s-04, or danstar windsor ale.

I've only formulated a couple of recipes, and modified others. None were fruit beers. When I do create a recipe, I use the calculator on BrewersFriend to check the expected results. But I prefer to use established recipes. I think it's a good idea to start with proven formulas.