Move Linear Flow Valves to Pump Outputs?

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303Dan

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First things first, I run a eHERMS system with 2 pumps.

So, during my last brew day, I thought of something: I have Blichmann Boilermaker G2's for my HERMS Tank/Boil Kettle and my Mash Tun. Both of those kettles have Blichmann's Linear Flow Valve on the output, which are pretty cool, but actually quite overkill for what they're used for in my setup where I only ever have a need for 2 positions: fully closed and fully open.

BUT, I'm currently using SS Ball Valves on the outputs of both of my pumps. Now, THERE, I really do have a requirement to precisely regulate flow speed both during mash recirculation and sparging. And right now, it's a pain, since ball valves are not ideal for precise flow control. There's like a centimeter of useful range on the ball valve that goes from full blast to a trickle.

I'm pretty sure the Blichmann valves are just standard 1/2" FPT, just like my ball valves.

Is this just a no brainer to swap the linear flow valves down to the pump outputs?

Has anyone had the same epiphany I just had with these things?

Dan
 
Is this just a no brainer to swap the linear flow valves down to the pump outputs?


I agree that I would like to see a way to put them on a pump, since if you pump from G2 they are mostly useless. I feel like some teflon tape and a locknut could get you there.

I bought a whole bunch of 1/2" NPT male by 3/8 female bushings to play around with mounting them in different things.
 
I was lucky enough to buy a bunch of the the linear valves before they almost doubled in price so I use them everywhere since they are much simpler to clean. I use them in line with cam lock fittings so I can adjust the flow up high at the input to the mash tun autosparge , at the whirlpool in that is in an autosparge hole in the book kettle etc. my pumps are down low on my top tier stand, so now I don't have to bend over to adjust flow any longer. By putting a male and female can lock on the ends of the valve I also can reuse them as I swap kettle sizes around when I make different batch sizes.
 
So, are they 1/2" NPT, or something else?

The kettle side is female 1/2" NPT with a machined o-ring groove, but I think the threads are machined a bit large since it's meant to be tightened to the point that the outside o-ring compresses against the outside of the kettle. This is a problem for things like march pumps and ssbrewtech mash tuns because they don't present a kettle wall to compress to.
 
Haven't wet-tested it yet, but here is me dorking off with a spare linear on a new chugger:

brew-stuff-201607+-+1.png

brew-stuff-201607+-+4.png
 
The kettle side is female 1/2" NPT with a machined o-ring groove, but I think the threads are machined a bit large since it's meant to be tightened to the point that the outside o-ring compresses against the outside of the kettle. This is a problem for things like march pumps and ssbrewtech mash tuns because they don't present a kettle wall to compress to.

I'm pretty sure the threads on the kettle side are exactly 1/2" NPT. I have had no problems with using one of these valves on a 1/2" NPT output on my mash tun with just the normal amount of teflon tape. I don't see why it you shouldn't thread them directly on to the pump output.
 
I'm pretty sure the threads on the kettle side are exactly 1/2" NPT. I have had no problems with using one of these valves on a 1/2" NPT output on my mash tun with just the normal amount of teflon tape. I don't see why it you shouldn't thread them directly on to the pump output.

I tried on my SS mash tun (1/2" male npt output) and it was quite loose even with what I consider excessive tape. Maybe linear valve is NPS, I dunno.
 
I'll be interested in how these valves perform in that application.
What happens when the valve is opened beyond "all the way" - does it fall off?

Cheers!
 
Fairly sure I held the tc adapter with a wrench (not much to hold on to) and the valve with my hand. I'd call that hand tight.

My thinking was that with something like a triclamp or camlock you can bottom it out because the orientation is variable. For the mash tun or pump, I can't bottom it out because I need the outlet pointing in a particular direction and it didn't happen to end up correct on either fitting.

Thanks for all the feedback on this one, good to get other perspectives on these things.
 
Teflon tape and cam locks on both ends. Works great for me since is use male cam locks on my pots and pumps, and the hoses all have the female cam locks

Same here on camlock configuration. I had wanted to try doing this, so thanks for confirming. Will do mine the same before my next brew day.

Cheers! :mug:
 
View attachment 365975

Teflon tape and cam locks on both ends. Works great for me since is use male cam locks on my pots and pumps, and the hoses all have the female cam locks

I received my valve in the mail today and installed the camlocks. Thanks for the idea. I’ll test for leaks then brew with it this weekend. I look forward to more control and repeatability.
 
First things first, I run a eHERMS system with 2 pumps.

So, during my last brew day, I thought of something: I have Blichmann Boilermaker G2's for my HERMS Tank/Boil Kettle and my Mash Tun. Both of those kettles have Blichmann's Linear Flow Valve on the output, which are pretty cool, but actually quite overkill for what they're used for in my setup where I only ever have a need for 2 positions: fully closed and fully open.

BUT, I'm currently using SS Ball Valves on the outputs of both of my pumps. Now, THERE, I really do have a requirement to precisely regulate flow speed both during mash recirculation and sparging. And right now, it's a pain, since ball valves are not ideal for precise flow control. There's like a centimeter of useful range on the ball valve that goes from full blast to a trickle.

I'm pretty sure the Blichmann valves are just standard 1/2" FPT, just like my ball valves.

Is this just a no brainer to swap the linear flow valves down to the pump outputs?

Has anyone had the same epiphany I just had with these things?

Dan
Not for nothing but im pretty sure my riptide came with one of these valves built into the output side.. it works well to dial in flow.
 
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