Motorized Monster Mill Build

[zadams14]

Do you remember what size bolts you used to attach the reducer to the motor?

 

[Chipster27]

Do you remember what size bolts you used to attach the reducer to the motor?

Don't quote me, but I think they were 5/16.

 

[jmark]

Yeah - I'm pretty sure that they were 5/16 too. I bought 1" bolts and some nuts that I screwed in first to make the bolt 'shorter'

 

[Carlscan26]

The link for the HF motor worked for me. I called the number in the instruction manual which led me to another number to call about technical questions. Haven't had a chance to call that one yet but I hope to find out.

I finally heard back from HF - it turns out this motor does have a NEMA 56C face too!

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-horsepower-farm-duty-agricultural-motor-68288.html

 

[drunkenmonk]

I don't think the motor you linked to has the C face for mounting a gear motor. I found another supplier for the motor I bought ... and for less:

http://m.globalindustrial.com/m/p/m...tefc-rem-c-1-ph-56c-1-hp-68-fla-less-overload

 

[Carlscan26]

I don't think the motor you linked to has the C face for mounting a gear motor. I found another supplier for the motor I bought ... and for less:

http://m.globalindustrial.com/m/p/motors/ac-motors-2-phase/capacitor-start-motors/gp-motor-t1-18-56cb-tefc-rem-c-1-ph-56c-1-hp-68-fla-less-overload

Even better than! Cheers!

 

[mateomtb]

Bringing this post back to life. Thanks so much for this info, great research. I'm working on a project like this and am finding a bit of uncertainty about the output rpm of motors and the input of the reducer. All of the reducers I have found say max 1750 input. What is the story with the output rpm on 1hp motors? Is it like saying 110-120v? I only ask because everything to the cheaper side is 1800rpm, but to confuse it more i've found ebay listings etc that even have 1750 and 1800 listed in the same specs. I would assume these are hard numbers, don't want to roach a reducer.

 

[gibsonmi]

I just built one of these too, used a motor listed as 1800rpm with the reducer in the earlier post, I don't have any problems.

I'm pretty sure the 1800 is the rpm without a load and 1750 is with a load, and they are a different representation of the same thing

 

[DallasW]

Thanks again for all the info, just bought all the pieces for the mill in our new nanobrewery tonight. Can't wait to try it out!

 

[calebstringer]

Thanks for the detail! Will be assembling my version of this, this week!

 

[FredTheNuke]

Good motor source is amazon. Grizzly G2532 1hp TEFC capacitor start motor 56 series for $171 shipped. Mine is a tank on my MM3-2.0. 30 lbs in the hopper and it will start and stop no problem. What sucks is I didn't see this thread with the well priced gear reducer so my mill has belts and sheaves...

 

[drunkenmonk]

Thanks for the detail! Will be assembling my version of this, this week!

Great to hear. Post some pics when you're done.

 

[calebstringer]

Great to hear. Post some pics when you're done.

Will do. Hope to do a double brew day tomorrow, and assemble the mill too. We shall see how that goes.

 

[calebstringer]

Unfortunately, the cart I ordered from amazon was destroyed during delivery....so I won't get to assemble my mill until next Friday.....

 

[calebstringer]

Finally got to start on mine! Assembled the cart, positioned the mill and motor in place, marked and cut through for the grain hole. Started to mount the mill, but my bolts are too long. So, this coming week, Ill get that fixed, do my wiring, and come up with something to mount the motor on to raise to the same level as the mill, and Ill post up pics!

 

[abarnett]

I'm having trouble wiring up my motor for reverse.

Here's my first attempt, and this turns the same direction no matter which way the switch is.


Here's my second attempt. This only turns if the switch is such that the wiring is the same as my first attempt (so, T1, T3, and T5 are Hot, while T2, T4, and T8 are Neutral).


Is it possible to control a motor with only the single DPDT switch, and have it reversible? Is it a problem to have power to T1 and T3 (or T2 and T4) while T5 and T8 are not powered?

EDIT: Figured it out:
1) I had my wires mixed up on the motor side. Once I got the right colors in the right places, I could reverse the motor.
2) However, I don't think I can get this to work with a DPDT switch, I think I need a 3PDT (On-Off-On) wired like so:

 

[banik]

Thanks for the write up. My pieces are laid out now, just figuring out details and the last bits to get. Pics to come...

 

[rossi46]

Can anyone see why this motor would not work ?

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electr...M-115-230-VAC-MARATHON-MOTOR-TEFC-10-2795.axd

 

[FredTheNuke]

Can anyone see why this motor would not work ?

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electr...M-115-230-VAC-MARATHON-MOTOR-TEFC-10-2795.axd

Grab that schit and RUN! Excellent motor at a good price. Be careful with shipping - the same thing from Grizzly on Amazon brand new is $169

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7U7BF8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[Want2BS8ed]

Can anyone see why this motor would not work ?

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electr...M-115-230-VAC-MARATHON-MOTOR-TEFC-10-2795.axd

Yes! I have assembled all of the parts from the OP's list and purchased the same motor. Everything is mounted and this thing will be a monster when done.

Struggling with the wiring at the moment though. The Marathon motor has seven leads (per the diagram on the motor):

LINE VOLTAGE 1
J10 Black
T4 Yellow
T2 White

LINE VOLTAGE 2
P1 Purple

LEADS JOINED
P2 Brown
T3 Orange
T8 Red

As wired, it runs perfectly, but in the same direction, no matter the switch setting. Thought I had it figured out, but that 7th wire is throwing me off.

I am out of my element and for surely lost. Anyone have a suggestion on how to wire this up?

Thanks!

Mike

P.S. Here is a link to Marathon's wiring diagram: http://www.marathonelectric.com/CnxDocRequest/PublishedPDF/52a105383ba.pdf

 

[FredTheNuke]

Yes! I have assembled all of the parts from the OP's list and purchased the same motor. Everything is mounted and this thing will be a monster when done.

Struggling with the wiring at the moment though. The Marathon motor has seven leads (per the diagram on the motor):

LINE VOLTAGE 1
J10 Black
T4 Yellow
T2 White

LINE VOLTAGE 2
P1 Purple

LEADS JOINED
P2 Brown
T3 Orange
T8 Red

As wired, it runs perfectly, but in the same direction, no matter the switch setting. Thought I had it figured out, but that 7th wire is throwing me off.

I am out of my element and for surely lost. Anyone have a suggestion on how to wire this up?

Thanks!

Mike

P.S. Here is a link to Marathon's wiring diagram: http://www.marathonelectric.com/CnxDocRequest/PublishedPDF/52a105383ba.pdf

Did you read Note 1 to reverse T8 and J10 to reverse direction?

 

[Want2BS8ed]

Did you read Note 1 to reverse T8 and J10 to reverse direction?

Thanks Fred. Appreciate your taking the time to respond.

The motor is running in the correct direction (fortunately) and the drum switch is reversing polarity. Unfortunately the motor is smarter than me and runs CCW whether the switch is in forward or reverse --- that's wired per the diagram on the motor casing (i.e. L1/L2/Gnd).

In DrunkenMonks original post the wiring diagram shows 4 wires connecting to 6 leads on his original Worldwide motor. The 1 HP Marathon motor from surpluscenter has 7 leads.

Just not familiar enough with starter coils, capicators, etc. to feel comfortable guessing.

Mike

 

[FredTheNuke]

From the PDF that 7th wire is the output of a thermal overload wired in series with one motor winding. You could wire around it and have the original 6 wires to simplify comparing to drunken monks diagram.

 

[FredTheNuke]

Another way to say it is wire the purple wire to where he shows the blue wire landing the key is the other red and black wires going to the middle barrel terminal terminals to allow reversal. The brown to purple junction is provided to "simplify" end user connection to line voltage but is simply an extension of the blue wire but adding a thermal overload in the circuit. It is not a capacitor

 

[FredTheNuke]

A third way to say it is don't use the purple wire at all. Wire the brown and orange to the terminal he shows blue and orange going to. But you have to split out the black and reds from their 3 wire junctions

 

[Want2BS8ed]

Thanks Fred. That was the information I needed.

Who knew brewing beer would lead to an understanding of industrial motors?

Based on your posts and some study of the motor and RS-1a wiring diagrams, I learned that only the starter leads reversed polarity. The main leads were constant.

Wired everything up this evening after work and can confirm for anyone using the Marathon EG282 motor, that the Purple wire (P1) can be substituted for the blue wire in Monk's original wiring diagram. I simply taped the Brown wire (P2) off.

Works fine. Not that reverse will ever be needed, but it is available.

Thanks so much for the help.

Mike

 

[FredTheNuke]

And you kept your thermal overload in the circuit should it ever be needed...

 

[adamrduley]

I'm confused with how to wire my switch (Dayton 2X440A, wiring diagram in picture attachment #5) & motor (Marathon 5KCR48UN0102Y) and could use some help.

From the input power cord (Black=Hot 240v, White=Neutral, Green=Ground) I have the black connected to switch pin 2, white connected to pin 6, and green connected to grounding screw of the switch. Pretty sure that is correct (note that i'm in europe, but my colors are off american standards). Picture #1 shows this.

Now this is where i'm confused. What pins from the switch do i connect to motor terminals (see picture #2)? As you will see in the pictures, my motor does not have all the wires just loose, rather there are terminals & jumpers. Here is a diagram of how the terminals are connected (please take note that my motor is configured for "hi voltage" thus the wiring diagram follows "NOTE #1" in the following link, and as you can see in my attached picture):
http://www.globalindustrial.com/site/images/universal/PEM/EG277-Conn.pdf

My current thought is that i should connect switch pin 5 to motor connection point "2" (the lower screw terminal) but not sure about that since white (T2) is connected to terminal "5" due to "hi voltage" mode. Then i'm thinking switch pin 4 should be connected to motor terminal "5" which is red (T8). switch pin "3" to terminal C black (T5) and switch pin "1" to motor terminal "5" as well -- but that is the same motor terminal i think i should connect switch pin 4 to. And my upper screw terminal (that P1/purple goes to) has no connection at all with this scheme. Grounding it is obvious.

Thank you in advance!

 

[Robg773]

I followed the setup as the original post except I wired my switch for forward and reverse. Here are some pictures of my setup.

 

[Robg773]

My wiring to have my motor go forward and reverse.